The Great Debate

>Clutch in or clutch out?

So I was driving with my friend, 5 sp manual. At stop lights I like to put it in neutral and push the clutch in while waiting for the light, other foot on the breaks obviously. My friend says its bad to hold the clutch in like that for a long time, says it wears it out sooner. I tried explaining it doesnt do anything since its in neutral, but he kept saying if the engine is running and clutch is in it will still wear it out, says his shop teacher told him this.

is this bullshit?

Car is a f150

Wears the throw-out bearing, that's about it

yes but you are not wearing out the clutch. you are putting wear on the throwout bearing.

Its not gonna make it just fucking explode. you are wrong and your friend is an idiot if that is what he told you.

Your car do whatever you want. not sure why you wanna just stand on the clutch for no reason if you put it in neutral already.

>put it in neutral
>AND push the clutch in
Why put it in neutral, then?

For a driving test? Yeah I'll keep the clutch depressed and in 1st.

Normal driving? Leave it in neutral at lights with clutch out. Only real exception is if you look at perpendicular traffic and see that the light is about to change, clutch in and into 1st.

Clutch release bearing etc etc

pic unrelated

If you're in neutral, there's absolutely no point keeping the clutch pedal depressed. Most people claim the longer a clutch pedal is depressed can over heat and prematurely wear the thrust bearing, which in some circumstances is true, although sitting at a red light with the engine idling you could be holding the clutch pedal for the next ten years and the bearing still wouldn't wear. In fact, I'd argue there's more harm depressing the pedal through two full cycles through the resistance of the thrust diagram than there is maintaining the clutch disengaged once for an extended period, but again that sort of "wear" is immeasurable.

Generally, yeah put it in neutral. There are worse habits you can have though.

My favorite are the people who say you should always push the button on your emergency brake when you engage it, because it's going to wear out the ratcheting mechanism.

Like dude, holy fuck. Chill.

but then I don't get to hear those awesome clicks

how long does it take? if i do this on a regular basis will that make it fail in a matter of months? or will this take years and years? ive gotta keep doing it

cause i like the kind of spongy feeling of it, its satisfying like popping bubble wrap

>it's going to wear the ratcheting mechanism comparatively faster than not pressing the release button
>life span still 50 years

I hate those people.

I'm confused are you standing on the clutch or just putting it in and out constantly?

i have a friend who just got a new maxima and this faggot is so paranoid about wearing out the goddamn windows he puts the child lock on so when riding with him we have to ask fucking permission whenever we need the window rolled down.

fucker says every time "i dont want you guys wearing out my windows, the repairs are expensive" i swear if i hear him say that one more time ill probably put my head through the window myself just to spite him

I push it in all the way as far as you normally would just like normal. Nothing rough but enough for that nice feel

I used to get that allot, but that was when electric windows where optional extras - and those did fuck out

Ok you will prolly need a new clutch before you kill the throwout bearing doing what you are doing.

I still cannot fathom why you would put it in neutral and stand on the clutch. To each their own i suppose.

>My favorite are the people who say you should always push the button on your emergency brake when you engage it, because it's going to wear out the ratcheting mechanism.

I have literally never heard this before. Jesus christ.

You probably have better odds of prematurely wearing out the plastic/mexi-chrome on the release button by pressing it while pulling the lever than wearing out the ratchet teeth by not pressing it.

Reminds me of my friend that bought a brand new Cadillac cts and turned the bass all the way down to preserve the speakers. It sounded terrible. He also would go so slow over bumps. Of course he traded it in at 20k miles for a new one. Completely pointless to do, enjoy your car.

Again, if you only keep it depressed at a standstill with the engine on idle, it's not going to make a bee's sick of a difference.

Usually it's the switches that wear out or plastic runners melted from no lube.

Motors are pretty damn stronk.

No, you have to go to neutral and release the clutch for the stop and go system to work.

>have 4 speed car from 1961
>ratchety still crisp and strong
push buttoners are cancer

This. Also start your car in neutral, don't press the clutch.

If you shift the transmission into neutral and you depress the clutch when you're stopped, you're fucking retarded.

That's like shifting an automatic into neutral at a stop light because you like messing with the gear select. That's just downright retarded.

>Also start your car in neutral, don't press the clutch.
b8 but if not any car made in the last 40 years has a clutch safety switch.

>using the starter to spin your input and lay shaft for no reason

>shifting an automatic into neutral at a stop light because you like messing with the gear select

Let me tell you about being retarded in an auto. I used to coast in neutral going down big hills, attempt to "revmatch" and shift back into D. This was in my Accord from 10 years ago.

Every single buttfucker in this thread is gay. Keep the car in gear with the clutch in so you can get out of the way of some crazy faggot if necessary.

You think having a half-second advantage is going to get you out of the way any faster?

How fucking long does it take you to find first gear?

>Keep the car in gear with the clutch in so you can get out of the way of some crazy faggot if necessary.
You're a waste of air.

i swear if one more burger posts this stupid ass shit.

you're not even required to learn manual to have a driving license you fat fucking fucks. shut your greasy mouths and stop pretending you know anything about anything, you dumbass NEETs.

>too poor to afford an automatic

That's because Nissan crap is so poorly made it breaks easy, hence he needs to baby his shit heap. I hate Nissan drivers with a passion. They are idlers too, like they have to start their vehicles at least half an hour before moving their car. I had a neighbor bitch who would start her car at 6:30 am, get ready and leave at 7:45. She drives a Nissan Murano.

>like they have to start their vehicles at least half an hour before moving their car.
You should be getting your engine up to operating temperature before moving no matter what car.

>too stupid to drive manual

Because Cadillac makes shit cars and you have to baby them otherwise they'll fall apart on you. It's true.

2 of the 4 cars i own are manual lmao.

If it's a 90s f150, you're probably fucking your slave and throw out.

They used internal slaves (as in inside the bell housing) and they're prone to failure from over use.

I had to replace mine last year, truck had less than 150k on it

I know you're b8 or a retarded Nissan driver.

>spreading misinformation

Then it should be claer why it is called autotragic.

You're supposed to wait about 15 seconds after starting but that's just so the oil has finished lubricating...

You're not supposed to redline it until it's hit operating temp.

I don't Nissan scum.

>running your engine cold
>letting your engine run rich because you can't wait 10 minutes.

muh autos are indispensable for city driving and heavy traffic.
Nothing pisses me off more than stop and go in manuel.
One of my autos is a classic so it's pretty dank.

>wait about 15 seconds after starting
To get the oil to the bearing surfaces, if it is cold and you have oil thicker than 5wXX you should wait longer.

Autos shift extremely slow, if they are torque converter based they are extremely inefficient and eat up about 25% of your engine power.
Also I drive in Aachen every day in a manual.

>Autos shift extremely slow
They shift faster. This cannot be argued, it's inherent to the design. Period correct manual would be a long throw as well.

>if they are torque converter based they are extremely inefficient and eat up about 25% of your engine power.
Mine is an A904 Torqueflite. It probably takes well under 5%. They use these in drag racing for that reason.

agreed tho, modern autos a shit.

>Waiting 10 minutes for your car to 'get lean'
>Not Nissan scum

Yeah right.

/thread

>burning 30% more gas just so he can drive around without heat.

Wrong!!

They have to wait for me kicking down the throttle to shift down, I know when I want to accelerate and can do it before a autotragic could possibly know.
>probably takes well under 5%
That is physicaly impossible.
>used in drag racing
If you dump 6000hp into something you will have a significant output.
Also they use centrifugal clutches instead of torque converters and don´t care about the efficience at the first part of the track since they couldn´t get it on the asphalt anyway.

no m8. You'll notice if your thermostat breaks you car will start gulping gas.

Exactly. The automatic sucks because it is a REACTIVE device. It can't read the road, it can't see whats going and it can't read my fucking mind. All it can do is *guess* based on what ONE part of my body does.

And that sucks for people who actually give a shit about driving. Because a reactive device sucks the joy out, completely.

Spbp

>autotragics suck
That was my point.

>They have to wait for me kicking down the throttle to shift down
Mechanical kickdowns will downshift as soon as you stomp on the gas (assuming you didn't mess with them)
Unfortunately modern TCUs do whatever the fuck they want.

>The automatic sucks because it is a REACTIVE device. It can't read the road,
Literally all you have to do is double tap the gas pedal and it'll downshift guaranteed. Or you could even put the shifter in 3 or 2.

Now your trolling is getting sloppy.

>as soon as you stomp on the gas
Wich takes some time more than I would need to do it manualy.

Yeah nah. Tell that to the rental Focus I had. Tap the gas in a corner, it went up one gear and then a half second later dropped 2 gears.

In theory, yea. In reality, never works properly. And so, in over 20 years of driving and a couple dozen cars I have never owned an automatic.

Arguments can be made for DSG's and paddle shifters in certain circumstances, but the torque converter automatic is shit, always was shit, and will never grace a vehicle I pay for.

no u

>Wich takes some time more than I would need to do it manualy.
No it won't.
Assuming reaction time being equal an auto will be in the next gear before manual. It's inherent to the design.

> In reality, never works properly
You tap it twice and hold it hard. you don't just touch the gas once noob. All you did was tell the TCU you wanted to stop coasting.

If i´m in a corner and know when I want to accelerate I can shift down before I need to accelerate.

Fair enough

You think it doesn't?

I bet you don't leave it in gear while parked.

Oh god THOSE people. These are the same people who leave the plastic film on the screens of electronic devices to "protect it". A month later it's peeling badly, clouded, and caked in dirt but they insist on "protecting it".

Idling with the clutch in is just pointless wear on your release bearing. If you're going to be stopped for more than several seconds, put it in neutral and take your foot off the clutch.

>40 years

2/3 of the cars I have driven do not have one and none was over 10-15 years old.

>You think having a half-second advantage is going to get you out of the way any faster?
yes

the bearing will wear out sooner, but it'll still last more than the clutch, and since you would normally replace them at the same time, that wear will probably never affect you.