Questions that don't deserve their own thread

I'll start. How do you put a car on jackstands if your jack is on the jack point? I want to take my resonator off and I don't want to have my car on just my sketchy oem jack.

Other urls found in this thread:

kbb.com/cars-for-sale/448056903/?totalresults=34&index=3&origin=index&atcmake=honda&atcmodel=civic&searchtype=all&zipcode=&year=2015&distance=150&tab=paymentcalculator
cincinnati.craigslist.org/cto/5926857026.html
americanmuscle.com/buying-a-foxbody-mustang.html
youtu.be/vjE-wHsjZ_E?t=21s
vocaroo.com/i/s0T9YEMsQdSL
twitter.com/NSFWRedditVideo

If I have to get my car up high to get under it, I'll put one jack on each side, and then a jack stand next to the jack point, but not being used. I'll leave the car on the jacks, but if they start to fail, the jack stands will catch it and at least give me enough time to get out and jack it back up.

Thanks for the tip senpai.

what is Veeky Forums's opinion of the 2017 Impreza hatch?
looking at one as a DD

The jack points are categorized in your owners manual. You wouldn't use a jackstand point to jack up your car...you would use it to place a jackstand there.

For example, you don't put jackstands under the differential, but you can use the differential to jack up your car and then access the jackstand points

garbage
don't snackbar threads

why is it garbage?
because it's underpowered?
drove one and it seemed alright

whats a good small pickup with large bed and ok gas mileage

>How do you put a car on jackstands if your jack is on the jack point?
Nigger you have got to be fucking kidding me
>I want to take my resonator off and I don't want to have my car on just my sketchy oem jack.
>he has Jack stands but not a Jack
>doesn't know how to put Jack stands on while car is lifted on one side
Never reproduce.

>uses name on Veeky Forums
>tells "anyone" not to reproduce
kek.

Atleast I know how to put Jack stands under my car

you never demonstrated that knowledge

Get a car with a real frame, fuckbuy

So I have a 2012 gti with some bolt ons and a ecu upgrade.
Is it normal for the car to feel like it slips into neutral, although still in gear, while putting the accelerator to the floor?

Say I'm in 3rd gear at around 2000 revs. I put the pedal to the floor and the car while accelerate hard up until 4500. At around then, the acceleration kinda dies out (although still increasing speed) and the revs start to climb to the moon without much effect. If I let off the pedal but still in the same gear, it'll start to catch a bit but after say another 1000 revs it'll climb again in a way that feels like it's slipping a bit.

Is that shit normal for ff turbo cars?
Its my first turbo car so idk wtf

Tacoma

It is slightly underpowered by modern standards, load it up with 800 lbs of people and youll see. You'll probably have a harder time overtaking people on the highway.

Front crossmember under the engine, or rear differential.

Your clutch is fucked, If auto your transmission is fucked.

Get a mazda3 instead
There's no reason to buy a Subaru unless you need AWD

Is that a stock Mercedes setup?

If you think that's bad, take a look at the ISF's exhaust.

how does the Civic hatch stand up?

Don't do this.
What you should do Is to lower your jack until the car weight is on the jack stand. Then you can keep your jack on for extra safety.

Don't think so. Probably some fag ricing his C350.

I know everyone thinks their quality has been slipping, but that's obviously a shitty aftermarket job.

been thinking of getting a 2001-2002 CR-V as a DD. yes or no and why?

What is 1 and 2 used for

engine brake stopped working but cruise control still works

i dont know if it matters but to start the truck i never have to push the clutch in either

how to fix?

its essentially first and second gear

if your car isnt shit you should be able to shift from one to two and then straight into d without letting off the gas

so like if your going up a steep hill you can drop it into 1 or 2 assuming your in the right rev range or you'll pop your engine like a manual

I let my tard coworker to do snow donuts in my imp and he decided to try to shift to 3rd and fucked my clutch. You could literally smell the burning. Now my car does exactly that, so I can confirm that it is indeed a fucked clutch.

Tips look stock, looks well put together which makes me believe its factory

>looks well put together
IT HAS A FUCKING LENGTH ADJUSTMENT THING IN THE MIDDLE OF IT

it sounds like youre going to die senpai.

This.

In general, how many miles is TOO many?

'bout tree-fiddy

that's a pretty hard question because it depends how the car was treated previously. An engine with 200,000 miles that is treated well can end up running longer than a miss treated engine with 100,000 and year kinda plays a factor too.

Looking at getting an e46 m3. I know they had frame issues in the earlier years so I'm looking at 2004+. Is it even worth looking at the amg competitor of that era?

Okay, I'll be more specific then. My dad wanted to buy a 2006 VW Passat that has 156k on it for around $2000-$2400. I told him that it was a bad idea.

For a used car, what should the cut off be for miles?

Sorry this was poorly worded. For buying a used car, what should be the cut off for miles.

See you stupid nigger

Get a real jack dumbcunt
Scissor jacks are shite

Those are completely different questions you fucking doughnut

>In general, how many miles is TOO many?
>For buying a used car, what should be the cut off for miles.
>completely different questions

how the fuck are those any different

I'm looking to replace the radiator of my friend's 96' Nissan Sentra GXE, but have barely any car knowledge. I know people who fix their own cars, so I'm planning on asking them to help out mainly with it. My question is, is it a difficult task to accomplish so much so I should ask an actual mechanic, or is it kind of just drain, unplug, remove, and reverse the process?

>Not understanding the difference between when a car should stop being used in general and when a car shouldn't be purchased when already used

Yeah I think you might have down syndrome

It's a good car. Interior is a huge improvement over past Impreza's and the chassis is way the fuck more rigid, and that means that the overall handling is going to be a massive improvement as well.

Impreza's already had pretty decent handling to begin with due to the low center of gravity and packaging from the flat-4 layout (compared to other 4-pot econo-cars anyway).

If you want an AWD hatch, it's hard to find a better optionthan the Impreza.

look at his actual question it's the same fucking thing you nigger

Is under glow homo-tier, based-tier, or somewhere in between?
Specifically thinking about putting it on a black 2013 Mustang GT with dark tinted windows and setting the glow to red.

I'm not sure anymore. Maybe retro-rice tier?

Are you seriously suggesting I buy a used car with 100,000-200,000 miles on it?
Wow ok

how about you take the answer that was already given to your question and stop being an obstinate cock

How about I ask what I want and you get upset

Do you like your coffee black or do you prefer it without any cream or sugar?

My current car is a complete beater '97 Infiniti I30 that we made the mistake of buying back when I was 16 without doing much research - it has been nothing but a complete piece of shit breaking down every 6 months like clockwork and we've since put more than double what we paid for it into it due to sheer gambler's fallacy.

I want to get rid of it and replace it with something less beat to shit that I can feel confident about maintaining and owning, but now that we've replaced almost fucking everything in the car short of an oil leak it's had since we bought it, I'm not sure if I should just toss it for a bargain price or hold onto it.
Any advice on if I should just get rid of the damn thing? It has so many cosmetic issues (scratches, dents, paint, etc) both interior and exterior that I'm afraid nobody would take it if I gave it away.

or you can ask what you want and I can call you a retard

If it's currently running decently, someone will buy it.

Man you really showed me. I guess Ill just go back to being a faggot because an autist cant comprehend the difference between two questions.

Question:
I have a a yearmodell 2000 of a Mercedes E320 top of the line with all luxuries. Sadly some stuff going busted lately/ did not pass the tech inspection.

Now ive got 1999 year model of a Mercedes e320 DIESEL that's somewhat better nick then my other one. ( expect the fucktard slammed it to the ground and put on 18" wheels that rubs the front fenders) Sadly it's not even half equipped ( like antispin, old sat nav, cellphone and more )

Now the question should i gut the diesel model for the gas model OR got the gas model to equip the diesel one?

And before anyone ask, yes the diesel engine runs strong and good.

How much does some simple pinstriping cost?

>Simple
More than masking tape.

Gee thanks.

Q1: Why did Honda make the prelude and the integra at the same time? They're both FWD Coupes, what is the difference between them? why run two models that are in the same segment?

Q2: anyone got a good guide on Harley Davidsons, like other than "looking like a hardtail", what's the different between dyna & softail lines?

Dad bought an 08 ml350 everything about it looks solid runs great well kept but when I went with him for a drive this thing shifted to D1 twice for no fucking reason. I tried googling what was up and only found two guys with that problem and they had no answers about what was wrong. Anyone have any experience with this?

Can you leave a car on jackstands for extended periods of time?

Why do some fuel pressure regulators have vaccum lines and some don't?

Worst exhaust ever...

Nah just tie it over to the other side. It's not like it's an amg or cost as much as someones house.

kbb.com/cars-for-sale/448056903/?totalresults=34&index=3&origin=index&atcmake=honda&atcmodel=civic&searchtype=all&zipcode=&year=2015&distance=150&tab=paymentcalculator

Should I buy this?

I've got a 2001 dodge dakota with 177k miles on it. When do you think I should start looking to replace it?

Transmission is still working well, not burning any oil, but my last two vehicles shit out before 150k so I'm a bit nervous.

Answer me NOW

The vacuum line holds a diaphragm inside the regulator closed so that fuel cannot pass through. That is, until fuel pressure becomes too high for the vacuum pressure and fuel is able to force its way through, relieving fuel pressure down to proper levels.

It's more or less how you described.
The only annoying part is removing the bumper and all the shit that blocks the radiator from coming out.

Sometimes, although it's a rare occurrence, you may have an easier time pulling the radiator from under the car rather than above it, it depends which side has the most shit blocking the radiator

Yes

Looking for my 2nd car. I'm driving an 92 Ford Ranger now and I've had my license for about 4 months and I'm ready to get something a bit more powerful (I have to floor it to and pray to get up hills in the 3.0 ???). I like old cars so I was thinking about a foxbody Mustang? How are these for daily drivers and is there something a bit weaker than the 5.0?

cincinnati.craigslist.org/cto/5926857026.html

If you want, find me a car in 3k range..

I'm having some issues with the seatbelts in my 1989 Mustang. They will only retract when you open the door and the buckle isn't stiff, so I have to fish it out from between the seat and the center console every time. Should I buy a new set of seatbelt parts and stuff or is there something I can do to restore or fix what I have in the car now?

>has license for 4 months and already wants a 2nd car
Slap a turbo in your shitbox m8

Also the only other engine option for foxbodies is a 2.3l 4 cylinder, but
>not wanting a big ol American V8

I didn't fully clutch in and my shifter rattled and made a horrible noise when I switched gears, how fucked am I?

It actually runs incredibly smoothly for how much shit has just fallen apart in it. Should I bother forking over the cash to fix the oil leak (valve cover(s)) before trying to unload it?

>Slap a turbo in your shitbox m8

What does this take to do and what can I expect in terms of performance increase. I have only done small repairs on my truck and maintenance etc

I was mostly kidding desu, I have no idea how to install turbos, I'm in the same boat as you with experience.

it's fine

How much did you pay for your mustang and any tips to find one or what I'm looking for exactly? I'll take the v8, fuck saving 5mpg.

I think I paid too much at $4000 but everywhere I've looked says that is about the right price for its condition.

I used this to check for fox specific problems, I missed a few general car problems because my knowledge of noises and their causes is very little.
americanmuscle.com/buying-a-foxbody-mustang.html

Quite jelly but 4k is too much for me for an old but strong shitbox. How do the girls like it? How is the idle/vibrations from the v8? Stock? Mileage?

>how do the girls like it
I don't know, I'm a turbo autist that doesn't talk to people, much less girls. My mom says its badass though :^)
>how is the idle/vibrations from the V8
I've got a few issues that need worked out, but as far as I can tell it does shake quite a bit when idling, although both of my cars shake like crazy (one because it has a bunch of things wrong with the engine that I have yet to look at, but the engine runs pretty rough).
>stock
as far as I can tell yes, I only just bought in December
>mileage
Unfortunately its 210k, which is mostly why I'm still kicking myself for paying four thousand fucking dollars for it

Interesting. I'm trying to understand why a car would switch from one with vacuum to the style without. The vacuum one has a maximum fuel pressure then while the non vacuum one would be to ensure a minimum? I assume there would still have to be a release somewhere. I'll have to get to looking for it.

My car makes a noise that gets faster with speed. The car is manual and I can feel vibration that goes along with the noise.
i.e I feel the vibration get faster as I go faster with my hand on the shifter. The other day I was driving around and the car starting shaking like crazy. It honestly felt like this youtu.be/vjE-wHsjZ_E?t=21s was going to happen. Could it be a driveshaft issue? U-joint maybe?

I tried jacking the car up to check for play, but I'm a fat fuck and even with the jack fully extended I couldn't fit under the car to reach the driveshaft. Should I try jacking up the rear diff because its slightly lower than the jacking points on the side of the car?

Other style regulators achieve the same thing with a spring instead of vacuum.
As to pros vs cons, there isnt really any. Just two different ways to achieve the same effect.

Is the noise based on your speed or your rpm?

2004 XC90 wiperblades

Apparently they use 600/530mm wiper blades in this car (OEM), they switched to aerotwin / flat blade design somewhere in 2004. My car has the old style wiper blades (metal hook), I'm looking at some Aerotwin "retrofit" wiper blades.

But: The compatible blades are listed 600/500 instead if 600/530mm width.

Does it make a difference at all? I'm probably overthinking this

speed
vocaroo.com/i/s0T9YEMsQdSL most of this is irrelevant, but you can hear it well at 1:35

So I can just pour power steering fluid in don't need to flush it or anything? The color of the fluid inside now is good it is a nice pink.

Why do you want to put in more power steering fluid?

Lift one side put stands under. Lift the other side put stands under.
How hard can it be

It is low and when I turn the wheel it is heavy and does not revert to center I figured it was power steering fluid that was causing this.

It's Veeky Forums if it's not an mr2 or miata it's garbage

Maybe you should check your physical steering components, the not centering thing wouldn't be related to the fluid level I wouldn't think

Civic?

97 Ford Probe

There is also a sound from the engine that sounds like one of the belts I thought that might be the one that powers the power steering and I just needed fluid. Dunno.