WIP --- Painting/ Sculpting / Converting general

What?

that was me, cheers!

I would recommend letting them sit in soapy water for a bit after stripping, though. The Dettol can make them kind of ""sticky".

rakarth flesh, dwarf flesh, brown wash, rakarth highlight. The dwarf flesh is an ancient gw paint that just refused to dry out like the rest did.

The top right is going to be really battle damaged, but the bottom left is mangled from superglue and tying to remove his head. I think I might strip them both desu. And you're right about the alpha legion. Everything on the net said blue, green then blue again for washes, but looking at it, it should have been green, blue, green.

Duncan is pretty useful for beginners but he, or rather GW, still do things that bother me so I'm going to link a guy I know who does a good job of showing you what thinning, blending, etc. is suppose to look like.

youtube.com/channel/UCwfL3sohcuBaxc4wAWOOdiA

The video quality could be better but I haven't found any other paint tutorials so far that show you exactly what its suppose to look like.

Thank you for the tip

youtube.com/user/SchnauzerFaceMinis

This guy is pretty good for aibrush users, shame he stopped posting videos.

Hey guys heres my first official attempt at a thousand sons aspiring sorcerer, curious what your opinions of it are and if there are any tips or tricks on how i can improve my painting skills, oh swammies of the brush

Put a piece of paper behind the model. Shine some light on it from the front, put baking paper over the lamp if you can.
Then take the photo again, we can give more useful tips the better the photo is.

considering getting back into painting minis, should i invest in pic related as a cheaper alternative to GW?

few things that made me think about giving it a shot was the size of the pots is much better value for money than GW, dropper bottles makes mixing so much more consistent and over all they seem simple like how GW paints used to be back in the day

While these things are swaying me i just want an opinion to see if this brand is complete horse shit or not before i hit the trigger. many thanks.

This. But for starters, learn how to properly thin your paints and work on getting a better base coat on everything. The staff and blue have a lot of blotchy spots and no clear coverage and its hurting your piece.

Other than that, take it slower and work on your brush control some more. There's some spots where the gold has bled out over into the wrong areas.

Never used that brand. How much is the bundle?
I got the Vallejo game colour set. That was 72 paints and probably my best purchase. You want to know you're serious though.

Thanks for the info so far gang, will do, also some of the blotchyness is a bit from the potato cam so next pic will be much clearer hopefully

...

i'm from Australia, going to set me back about $110usd to get posted over because it's still cheaper than buying on shore.

Me too. Go to bed you shitter.
$110 total? That's pretty good. My Vallejo box set me back about $300. This was about 8 years ago, I found a local seller.

Gorgeous, how'd you learn?

First I painted minaitures. After that, I started with really small alters. For example, expanding the leg of a memnite. The small size allowed me to, since the beginning, practise color matching until the result was absolutely perfect. Then I altered bigger cards.

High motivation is always needed.

I finished this guy recently. I'm quite happy with him.

I'm not sure how to progress now. I can work with basic washing, drybrushing, a little bit of highlight and layer, but I'm still doing easy stuff. Is there some game-changing technic I should look into?

>High motivation is always needed.
Just how high are we talking?

Again; that's a long ass dune

Looks really good m9
The skinks are pretty bright compared to the rest of the model so maybe consider giving some lighter highlights to the scales and carapace plates of the big thing

Enough to completely visualize how the end result will be and to really want to start painting it.

It's perspective. The nearer the dune is, the more visual space the same distance takes. Someone could debate it's still a little long, but not too much

Not nearly as long as this one.

fuck yeah, straya!

i used the google and found out that paint set is nearing the $400-500aud price range, a bit out of reach and to be honest i'd just buy GW paints from black cultist at that price, probably get 100 or so.

Guess i'm just looking for a cheaper alternative than gw that isn't completely shit.

is there a good way to get this speckled effect on something like a necron model? i get the feeling that flicking a brush at it will cause oval shaped splatter that i don't want and poking it with a brush tip won't have the same randomness.

tooth pick lightly touching it or get a fine detail (20/0) SPOTTER brush.

Check your local games stores for deals too, mine sells citadel paints at $4, and army painter and Vallejo for $3 per pot or dropper.

Lots of people seem to like army painter. Maybe get a bottle or two to try before committing to buying.

I went in blind with the Vallejo other than online recommendations, but they turned out to be awesome.

Ultimately you don't need that many paints anyway if you practice mixing. I didn't have that option being somewhat colour blind though.

I have no local games shop, so if i want paints i kind of have to buy them online and if i buy 1 pot and go "yeah these are good" i'm going to have to wait ages to get more due to postage times.

as well as that the price of that kit is much friendlier than buying them by the pot, by the time i get the base colours, inks and other stuff to mix i might as well have bought the $150aud kit.

if lots of people seem to like them then i might take a punt on them, worst case scenario i can just slowly buy GW if they turn out to be bad.

pretty good, but he/you should explain a bit mopre i think.

they can't turn out to be bad, all paints are ok,people just have preferences, you will get used to them, don't worry.(some user told me their yellow isn't very bright so you might want to add a bright yellow to your order if you plan on using it

that seems like a solid idea, guess i can get that kit and any colours i don't like or feel aren't of good quality i can always replace with the odd GW pot here or there.

also where are you buying them from?

eBay, was gonna get it from an australian site but they don't have the kit and if i buy all the paints individually it'll cost a bit more.

>Llanura
Sorry about the European Championship, Spanish bro

Gonna be painting a white Sanguinary Guard soon aiming for something similar as in the picture, any suggestions for the wing color? I was thinking of Mephiston Red. Black/dark grey won't do

Newish to painting here, thought y'all would like some data I've collected.

Experimenting to see which primer I like the most. My coats weren't the best (I'm still getting used to proper technique), but the results are satisfactory for comparing.

From left to right:

1. Rust-Oleum American Accents 2X Ultra Cover Primer
2. Rust-Oleum American Accents 2X Ultra Cover Semi Gloss
3. Krylon Cover Maxx Flat Black

The Rust-Oleum Primer is a step up from what I used to use, but the black is still duller than I'd like and it's still too matte for my taste.
I love how the Semi Gloss turned out, but I'm worried about how it will sit once I paint over it.
Finally, the Krylon Flat seems to be what I like the most. It's nice and dark with no gloss or matte texture.

What do y'all use?

This is somewhat bewildering to me

>too matte

What do you think the purpose of a primer is?

It's an adhesive for your paint, you want a nice flat even and well... matte surface for you to paint over.

Why the hell would you want a gloss sheen of paint peeking at you from corners and folds in a dark robe catching the light?

So I tried greenstuff (50/50, some times 70% blue part) and the result is too rubbery for my taste. How's milliput? I heard is too brittle to do anything that has details, I also heard that combination of both is (50/50) is perfect.

>red wings
How about silver?

It's more like working with clay. If that's your thing. Better for gap filling.

Well gee, that's cuz your not mixing it right. How do you expect milliput to work if you won't use that properly either?
Generally you should be mixing 60/40 yellow to blue. The more blue, the more "rubbery." Go figure.

I'm trying to clone some stuff, for the helmets the greenstuff was ok, but the left arms (I only have 2 left arms with guns, enough right arms, but I want them with guns in both) greenstuff turned out to be shit, too rubbery and hard as fuck to remove the moldlines. I'm also going to clone a couple of torsos and a couple of bike frontals.

Deldars by the way.

>Read a couple "how to use greenstuff"
>They all say the more yellow the more sticky, soft and rubbery
>The more blue the more stiff, rapid curing, etc
Is this a ruse?

no thats right, when i used to work with green stuff i'd mix more blue for bulk and more yellow for detail.

Don't listen to the other guy

Depends what one means by rubbery. Sounds like you have a different interpretation as the people you are reading.

Don't listen to THIS guy. Especially ass hats that come in with no input. What did he back up? Nothing, just a shit post.

More blue, it is firmer. It also doesn't like to take on shapes either. More yellow, for more detail work, though it is softer when it cures.

More blue in the mix for your bulk work. More green for detail. You would have been better with 70% YELLOW with your bits, you went in the opposite (re: wrong) direction and got bad results.

Pick a rubber band, move it, see what happens, the opposite of rigid or stiff. Yellow gives you that, not blue.

Btw, I'm not even OP.

I don't care what you or I think. It's what that guy and the tut guys are talking about.

If you aren't the one who is asking, then just stay out of the conversation. The only reason for you here is to argue apparently.

Matte=/=flat

You seem to use them interchangeably.

The matte texture has more detail loss and has a less better outcome than something that has a flat texture.

>Several anons already pointed you're the only one understand rubbery as rigid
>Calls others shitposters
Kek

I'm By rubbery I meant soft and elastic, hard to sand and cut the moldlines, similar to gum. I left it to cure for days and still was like a rubberband.

HE said rubbery, I said maybe he got what he interprets as rubbery wrong.

Then I explain the effects of more and less blue and yellow and what he actually desires.

But yeah, shitposting.

Meanwhile...

you talk about elastic bands, argue irrelevant semantics, and provide such wonderful useful posts full of helpful content like "kek."

Good work user.

Jelly of your AL. My attempts didn't go so well. Truth be told I was looking for a different effect but anyway. Good work on the NL's face as well.

and I quoted a wrong post, this was the one I meant

well this thread became a clusterfuck from 0-to-10 real fast

Has anyone ever attempted to make a Black Dragons force?

I imagine most of it would be a vanilla Marines force with the colour scheme, and just the assault squads changed to have blades?

>Putting together figure, plan on assembling the arms later to more easily paint the torso
>Suddenly a giant gap in the right arm appears, forcing me to assemble the arms beforehand so I can fill it with putty
Please God, make it stop

Greenstuff is a ruse.
Use milliput, procreate or fimo with an electric lamp oven.

make sure to post when you're done with them!
been busy with other warhammer stuff (selling some of the shitton of stuff I don't need), but made this guy up last night. Crimson Fist captain I decided to give a second fist because it seemed fitting. was going to read up on various chapters later for ideas on how to make some stereotypical chapter resemblance

hi /wip/ i ahve googled around and the best i could find is Wayland games. Anybody has a good europe based online store to share?

Some BD are reported to be bigger than usual because of their bones growth, others have their geneseed completely going haywire, which results in them mutating and becoming more beasts than men, described as roughly BIG humanoids dragons/lizards.
So there are a few ideas here and there. Read Death of Antagonis if you want to learn more about them.

Has anyone here ever done any papercraft 40k vehicles? Specifically those really nice looking ones from the Russians. Any tips for making one?

i hve read some people who talked about making them and the only advice i learned is throw some vinylic glue to make the paper stronger and use thick paper

Any ideas how to make my second squad of guardians (grey) be distigushable from the ones in the front (yellow helms) paint scheme wise?
Theyre alatioc so blue has to be there.
Sorry for all the excess crap I just recycled a pic from the 40k general

How thin should my paint actually be? 1:1 paint to water? 2:1? 59:1!?

you could give them white faces instead of black, change the colour of their stones, but red works really well there,but i would personally change the trim of the weapon, the black part. Making it white or even yellow really works well in my opinion

it really depends on the thing you need to do in that moment, but generally when you put a thin enough paint on your canvas it retracts slightly, that's how i know i thinned enough, you are overdoing when paint starts moving of it's own volition though, you start going to glaze consistency there

Ah that's a good way to put it. Thank you!

I forgot to mention this but they have high elf heads, im filling in the dents with GS.
Should I try an all blue head?

Don't cheap out on paper and reinforce it all the same

>dents
do you mean the face holes or the round holes? If you are filling the round holes the team should stand out already,if you want to make it stand out even more, why not put a gem in every dent?

I guess I could do that, the dent is deep though. So would a blue helm work better with a big red gem in it? I kinda feel like it would

why would it? then you would end up with full blue models? why would you make them a blue slab? Also itjust came to my mind that blue's complementary is orange so you could make their stones orange.

what the fuck did i do to my post? sorry for grammar.

Hi guys, I'm getting started with making an Alpha Legion army, and I saw this posted up in a previous thread.

I'm kind of a complete newbie at painting, but I really can't stand playing with unpainted models. So I thought this method seemed simple enough.

Though I'm confused about a few things. When pic related says the initial mini is "layered up" to runefang steel, I assume it means to use a separate darker metal color as a basecoat, and then paint it with brighter metal colors until you get to runefang steel?

And for the layering of the washes do you do a complete, thin coat of it and wait for it to dry, then do the next layer or is there some mixing involved?

Sorry for the questions if they are common sense, I just don't want to screw up too badly and have to strip them or something.

Here's a better idea of what I mean, don't forget the skin tone as well

Stilgar, do we have wormsign?

It will take you hours to build and do not use regular printer paper. Get nicer, more firm, expensive paper or the it will be too flimsy

1 thing is if you don'twant to screw up read a guide or two and google the names of the technques you want to employ, this will give you a general idea of how eerything works. By only asking here youget only some informations and you will end up fucking up and having to come back with basic questions everytime. in this case the techniques would be layering an glazing. Always let the coat of glaze dry before doing the subsequent and yes basically layering means painting the whole are acolour say leadbelcher, and then painting over it in the raised areas with a brighter colour, say runefang steel.Also for the layering let everything dry before going over it. There are a couple techniques which play with wet paint, but as a general rule, if you don't know what you are doing let everything dry

I feel like ill just make the helmets yellow like normal with a yellow kneepad and if it looks bad ill repaint it, as well as the gem on the head.
Whats the best colour gem on a yellow surface?

>Black Dragons
>I imagine most of it would be a vanilla Marines force with the colour scheme, and just the assault squads changed to have blades?

That's about what you would see on the battlefield, I imagine. If the blades/horns ever got to be too much ("Brother-Sergeant! My helm no longer fits properly!"), they'd probably grind them down a la Hellboy.

The best colour is the one you like the most. Complementary colour would be purple, Also if you really like the blue helms just go with them, nothing too bad, it's just that i personally hate monochromatic models.

I think I'll paint 3 guys, and make each guy have a black, yellow, and blue helmet and compare and choose. Feels like the safest bet

Now with actual quality

I painted some Kingdom Death - thoughts?

is that 5th edition rulebook?

Based
Yes

it looks pretty good, maybe needs wash and highlight on the hair and the non metallic metal needs some touch ups, but i can't help you since i suck at it too(actually more than you, that's pretty good already)