WIP - Painting/Converting/Sculpting General

>phone camera is shit
>roomate cool as fuck professional camera doesnt have a detail/macro lenses

I just wanna share my wips!

To any Skitarii collectors:

Do you magnetize your heads on normal dudes? Magnetizing the arms on 3 of them is an obvious choice (unless using Arquebuses) but I'm not sure if magnetizing every model's arms and heads is worth doing or too big of a pain in the ass instead of just buying torso bits or another set and selling the bits.

Stop using a flip phone. Any smartphone newer than an iPhone 4 will have a passable megapixel camera.

>>roomate cool as fuck professional camera doesn't have a detail/macro lenses

How close are you two? Could get him one for christmas if you're good friends and you have the money for it.

Or just get a decent phone and don't spend 200$ on plastic figures next month.

I never though of that but that's a genius idea to get more mileage out of your special weapon guys. Not sure how you'd do it though.

Honestly the only special weapon I use for rangers is the sniper anyways. If I'm using the other special weapons vanguard make better delivery platforms by virtue of being cheaper and having more aggressive weapons on the meatshields.

>magnetizing basic troops

I've always felt this was stupid. Just buy an extra troop. The parts are small and the models are cheap so it's pointless. Having a bunch of magnetized hands jangling around is also annoying.

I would understand if it's one of those expensive 5 a box models or larger units and vehicles, but basic faggots? People magnetize space marine hands, like really, how expensive is a fucking snapfit bolter sergeant?

I know, magnetizing basics is a tedious fucking piece of work for often only little pay-off, though I can understand it for marines. 4 magnets on a 10-man unit doesn't take too long and you can use your bits more effectively

Well, magnetizing the arms might be a little fiddly, since their shoulders are that small and, most importantly, not very wide and don't have shoulder pads to glue over the magnets if you accidentally drill through. Then again, I also managed to magnetize my Tech-Priest's pistol hand without any issue and that one's not much bigger than a Skitarii shoulder.

Heads should be easy. Could just cut off the round part at an angle I like, drill a small crevice and stick the magnet in.

Heck, the only reason I really want to do this shit isn't to necessarily save a lot of money but just to not have piles of heads and arms lying around and not having to buy another full infantry box's worth of body bits to build Peltasts or Hoplites.

I play sisters and Imperial Guard as for tools brushes or brush on primer are always nice

I also completely lack templates just throwing that out there... It feels weird posting this

WAIT. GUYS. I'VE GOT IT.

He doesn't knife hand internally, and he doesn't knife hand externally.

He knife hands ETERNALLY.

>have phone
>dropped it a few times
>shattered back glass panel and lost the lens for the camera
>camera takes pictures with super blurry parts so it's basically worthless for taking WIP's

Now I just post old photos every now and then.

>tfw poorfag

Alright, big black dildo it is, thanks for your feedback.

Even though the joke was already dead, you decided to sodomise and mutilate it's mangled corpse...

So I've got a very minor-ly damaged plastic Kharn that's getting replaced. Wondering what you anons would do with the fucked up one.
I'm thinking of using the main body to get a step closer to filling out the dv chaos marines to a full squad of 10 with a bolter/chainsword combo... not sure what to do about the iconic head except take off the "ears" and put horns in their place. Thinking I could build my own pre-heresy Kharn with the arms.
Anyone got some alternative ideas? I'm kinda at a loss aside from just selling em and those mentioned above.

/wip/, i've come across kings of war undead for cheap, have you guys got any suggestions as to how to paint them?

OP here, I only used ol knife hands because I didn't have any of the OP images and just decided to use a pic of him for it. People seemed to like him so I figured it'd work. Wasn't trying to force a meme.

no idea who is

How does this power klaw arrangement look?

clown makeup.
ghoulish clowns would be even scarier than regular ones.

seriously though a little more information about your planned army/theme might go a long way.

Repoosting

anyone here having experience with Blue stuff ? i wanted to cast some bits and saw a video about blue stuff that looked really nice so im thinking of getting some.
on a related note, what epoxy/putty would you recommend for the actual casting

Haven't been following the past few threads, what are you making, user? Some super Ork-Waagh!-boss?

Looks good.

4 terrain type stuff I recommend Das air-dry clay for slightly more detail oriented stuff I recommend milliput and finally for even better quality I recommend green stuff some people use milliput on the inside for larger pieces that use green stuff for detail

which miliput super fine or yellow grey ?

Botched a couple of my Chaos Warriors trying to dip them with Minwax Polyshade. At first they looked like they were made of fucking oil. Krylon Matte Finish took the gloss off, but then they looked globby and lumpy. My original paint job wasn't great, but it was miles better.

Should I stick with using a general purpose magic wash for shading, or will a proper dip like Army Painter QuickShade work much better than the Minwax?

Working on some Malifaux stuff right now. I am a painfully amateur painter, but I do like how the inks turned our compared to the washes I normally use.

I disapprove of your choice to support Games-Workshop's most heinous abomination to date, but you did a good job painting that cannon, bro.

The bone tusks look fantastic, and the bronze on the cannon itself looks really nice.

That looks kind of akward... what about claws from sort of in between the barrels like an acguy?

user please that's not the worse thing games workshop had released.

That kit is fucking dope...of all the models to complain about....

Nigguh. Ever tried to put together a Jabberslythe? I have. 5 years ago. He's still incomplete in a box somewhere because fuck that model.

I even emailed GW about it. "Due to the number of people trying to return this, our advice is to try to fix it with Green Stuff"

> Paraphrased of course, don't have the email any more.

Green stuff would be great, if the model lined up with itself at all. when the hand meets the arm crooked, arm meets the body crooked, tail won't line up at all, and head is a mess of weird lines, shove off.

this thing was a shock becaus Ogres went from fairly tales levels of grimm mongolian man eaters to cheerily colorful WoW abominations
And this was a surprised because GW managed to fuck up their money printing design

They're both tremendously shit and mark low points for GW for different reasons though

Noob here - would it be feasible to file down/remove the Aquilas off of SM models to make them into CSM/Black Templars (who AFAIK don't have aquilas)?
Or would it be way too fiddly and likely to ruin the model cause of the sheer amount of them?

Keep them if you plan on doing BT. AFAIK they literally worship the Emperor. But, it's too fiddly for CSM. Better off "defiling' or "defacing" them with scratches or the Chaos Star.

I was in the exact same position as you with a few Marines a friend gave me. Little bit of battle damage, few X's on the wings of that eagle, and looks chaos-y enough for most people.

Thanks, won't try too hard then

>pic related
What I think of every time I see those damn models

Guys, how do you guys get out of your funks? I have absolutely no motivation to get this army done (pic related), I'm trying to get rid of my Nids and CSM, and a friend of mine wants to do a project for 30K starting in Jan. I also know I'm getting at least 2 boxes of 'Crons for Christmas to start on a Diesel-Punk themed Necron army. The problem is that I haven't picked up a brush, assembled a model, primed a model, anything, in like 2 months.

> got any tips to help a fellow user get back in the mood to paint?

They always remind me of kids in big winter clothes but that's also a good comparison

Listen to podcasts you like. Also make it so you aren't allowed to listen to it unless you are either painting or assembling your minis.

I either watch painting videos, listen to lots of nice music while I paint, or just look at bunches of awesome finished models, which normally makes me want to paint again.

One thing that has been a godsend to motivate me to paint: Kratom. Kratom is a """""drug""""" like coffee is a drug, there has been a controversy in the US over the DEA recently blah blah blah but basically, Kratom is the desire to paint in powder form. It's a plant in the coffee family from southeast asia, you dump the powder in a cup with water and chug it. Then for the next 3 hours or so you get a mild stimulating effect that makes activities like painting miniatures an absolute blast. I say it's "like coffee" because it's very mild compared to what people think of as "drugs" like weed etc. It is definitely stronger than coffee and has different effects, but it's not something that's going to get you intoxicated. If you take too much you can get dizzy and have some euphoria but just take 5 grams and sit down at your table and let the autism of painting dolls become the most exciting thing in the world.

It's currently legal in the US and you can check /r/kratom for details, there are online vendors. A lot of other countries have banned it though. Hopefully all this activism pulls through and Uncle Sam doesn't shitcan it here too, might be banned soon.

>looks it up
>all those withdrawal symptoms
ill have to pass.

I need help with some colour choices lads.

I'm doing my Sisters of Silence with red armour and black cloak, with black loin cloth as well.

What colours should I make the : bolsters, sword blade, sword hilt, gems, topknot, animal fur on shoulder.

Also Pictured is my Ahriman progress.

so, blood angels sisters of silence? black bolter, silver sword blade, gold sword guard (with black main hilt) , green gems, black or blonde topknot and animal fur.

...

I have two sets of the dark angels half of DV and I decided to convert them to space wolves tonight. Any tips so I don't fucking hate myself after? I'm using a dremel to shave all their icons off, but idk what to do with the librarian. Anyone make wolf skulls small enough for mini heads?

Start by thinning your paints.

I'd also suggest using a smaller brush, it looks like you're accurate enough, its just your brush size making you go over the lines.

My brother has started an IG army, and I am wanting to get him some Death Korps models. Does anyone know where to pick them up for cheap? Currently working and going to college, so I'm a tad strapped for cash, but if there isn't place that I can get them outside of FW then I'll just get him some more normal guardsmen or something.

Ebay is an option

ebay.com/itm/warhammer-40k-DEATH-KORPS-OF-KRIEG-SQUAD-FIRING-/222326041956?hash=item33c3aa2d64:g:v7wAAOSwiwVWS06r

I was thinking someplace a bit more consistent since FW stuff isn't always on Ebay, but thank you for the help sir.

Left some green stuff in a closet for a year and like half of the yellow stuff is hard now, is there a way to fix this?

Just got these from my LGS, but I've never used Reaper.

Are they any good? How do they compare to GW?

Reaper paints are generally rather nice, a little thinner by default than GW, but those few Triads I own have really good coverage.

Cool.

The owner gave them to me for $20, which is a fraction of what gw paints would cost, so if they're good, then that's even better.

Dumfries & Galloway user your ss stuff is on its way!

>No motivation to paint a bronze army like the minotaurs

Nigger what? It's one of the easiest army to do. It's the same colour everywhere!

How do I get the metallic red color of Thousand Sons? Do I just mix silver and red? Do I base the whole model gun metal and paint red over it?

Forgeworld used Tamiya Clear red over a metallic base for their scheme. It's nearly impossible to do without an airbrush though. That clear stuff does not like being painted on larger surfaces.

And I have neither of it anyway. What's a good plan B?

Honestly, it might not matter at this point. Legion hopping might be the better choice.

the new GW tints should be perfect for 1ksons. Only problem is I don't think they sell them individually.

Tints? Huh. Never heard of them. What are they? How are they different than say a wash?

Try the chinamen. I don't have the flyers but I'm sure some user will share them. Failing that just go back through the other threads.

The paint stripping guide in the OP says Castrol Super Clean is the best option for removing paint. Just to be sure before I try it, will CSC remove spray paint primer/residue from Lego (ABS plastic) without harming the plastic? Pic related is what I'm trying to strip. The Lego pieces were soaked in Simple Green, which took off the paint, but not the residue.

youtube.com/watch?v=QksrFJyT5A4

Saint Duncan makes them look pretty useful

Test it out somewhere that it won't be visible if it does.

That residue may be due to the paint permanently affecting the surface of the lego, and possibly diffusing a bit into it as well. If that's the case, you're not undoing it.

you mix them into a pot of metallic paint and it changes the colour while keeping it metallic

Fuck, that sounds awesome.

>That residue may be due to the paint permanently affecting the surface of the lego
I really hope not, as that would suck, but I'll give the Castrol Super Clean a try. I'll do a test to run with a common, easily replaceable piece in case it ruins the plastic.

first krieg, sorry the lighting its absolute shit (low cost lightbulbs+winter cloudy day)

I tried to make it look like quite rough and dirty but i dont know if it came out good.
if you are american: Ebay
If you are not: chinaman or local used warhammer, even if people hardly sells those bastards

Doing a squad of 10 13th company Grey Slayers for my SW army.
So just some kitbash with Chaos parts.
(Here's the fluff for those who don't know it wh40k.lexicanum.com/wiki/13th_Great_Company#Organization )

Going to try and do their Rhino the same to match, so a few panels painted in Traitor Legion colours.

I was thinking one top hatch door, one side hatch door and maybe a panel on the front to show as well as replacing damaged power armor parts with scaveneged parts from the CSM they fell, they also have had to do the same with their Rhino.
I don't want to overdo it so it won't look like a clown car.
Any suggestions of which legion part to use where are welcome.
I'm thinking Alpha, IW and BL?

Will be a unit I keep in reserve if I roll Outflank on units of Grey Hunters so show them randomly turning up, maybe being dumped out of the warp.

My loyal guardsman template. Do you think guard armor need highlights? Do you think it need anything more to do? (Base is not final, just mini)

First of all I can barely see anything, it's a terrible picture. - It's absurdly huge and dark.

I really like the camo.
You don't have to highlight anything really it just makes the model look less flat, if you could follow Duncan's advice about edge highlight you could probably do a very fine highlight on the weapon but it's a good effort.

How did you get that bronze for the cannon? It looks gorgeous.

Yeah I can't find good light to do better photo. I will see how highlighting works here

Just thought I'd introduce everyone to the magnificence of Ian Wyatt and his Orks.

youtube.com/user/wazzoo2000/videos

How should I sex up my bases chaps?

Basically sand, painted Scorched Earth and static grass.

Should I drybrush the exposed earth? Some larger grey stones?

I have bought some Tufts too, the straw ones seemed to yellow but the "meadow" ones I've got might not provide enough contrast.

Red paint and gold.

either mix them together. or paint it gold, then wash red twice.

youtu.be/3rNW6GPvC_8

>Should I drybrush the exposed earth?

Absolutely, and I'd avoid large stone, go small if anything. A slight drybrush will make everything less two tone and I'd argue that nothing much else is needed.

Alright cool I can work with these, hope you enjoy it. I wonder if I'll be able to pick out your guard once the package arrives and I start to recognize your workbench.

Warplock bronze- agrax - brass scorpion and some rune fang here and there.
Warplock bronze is some magic fucking paint man, even with just a basecoat it looks shiny and metally and done.
I was at my store, I looked at the model on the shelf and said
"This is fucking retarded"
So I bought it.

So after painting my marines, I want to apply some of those decals. How do I go about doing this?

My most recent conversion, old pic because i fixed some of the retarded highlights.

A shipment to Germany is on its way. Enjoy user!

>Get a breakfast bowl with warm water.
>Get your decal sheet and cut out the decal you want to apply with a sharp knife
>Try to be as neat as possible, but don't damage the decal
>Drop the cut out decal into your water bowl
>Wait for a minute
>take it out with tweezers
>the Decal itself should be loose from its background paper now
>use a brush and carefully push it from the paper background onto your miniature
>use the brush to get it into the right position
>use brush, paper towel or q-tip to carefully remove any excess water from the mini
>wait for it to dry

Some protipps:
Brush on some satin or better gloss varnish at the position where your decal is supposed to go before doing all the stuff above and let it dry

This creates a very smooth surface so the decal will stick better

After you applied your decal and its dried, brush on a coat of "decal fixer" (for example by vallejo, but there are other brands as well). This helps to reduce the shine of the decal itself and also makes it somewhat "melt" to the mini

After that is also dry apply a coat of matte varnish to remove the shine from the gloss varnish from earlier. Not necessary if you spray matte varnish over the whole mini anyway but if you want to continue painting the decal area (adding some chipping for example) then thats probably a good idea.

You forgot to apply a bit of water to the part of the model you're applying the transfer to. It gives you a bit of work time.

True. Brushing a bit of water onto the "decal-area" helps to slide it around for a bit to get it into position.

Fort Worth user your (not so)Secret Santa is on its way

My ogr pirate still need to do highlights and stuff

Thanks user, hope this turns out well!