WIP: Work in Progress

it looks a bit bumpy, probably a primer issue

I think Crimson Fists would be cool

Migrating this from the last thread.

Tips on painting minotaurs/bullgors?

I use Vallejo paints with Citadel washes...I haven't done this much skin at once before.

Kill two birds with one stone and use a collaging app to combine these and make them the right way up.

Your metals could use another highlight, they're very dark at the moment.

They look better painted like fur

On larger areas of skin it's worthwhile to make your transitions smoother: what you can get away with on a small model's face looks weird on big minis.

Thin, translucent layers m8.

Didn't get much response last time, but repostahn my Yuan-Ti wizard. Still a pretty shit painter, but I'm inching ever close to not being shit. Monk is a 6 month old miniature I painted for comparison.

Just finished my Blightking champion. He's a kitbash of a Blightking, Orghotts Daemonspew and the head off Otto Glott from the Glottkin also some greenstuff bloated messed up flesh. I'm new too scultping and Nurgle is so forgiving.

I really like the basing and color scheme on your wizard, especially with the skin. Keep it up. The monk isn't quite as impressive. You should do it justice by stripping the paint off, cutting off the integral base, and going over it again.

Out of curiosity, do you actually use these in D&D or the like? The 30mm base seems kind of oversized for the standard 25mm grids that are usually used with D&D. Do you just hand wave it and let bases overlap, or do you use larger grids of some sort?

And with his squad.

Yea the monk is an older mini from before I started experimenting with glazes and layering. I just find bones impossible to look good, can't figure out how to prime them well.

And yea I do use them. Most people don't mind the base overflowing a little bit into nearby squares. My 40mm based minis are mostly just for show though.

Oh fuck me are those Nurglings INSIDE of those guys? That is awesome.

firstly it's cool to see someones painted up a Bushido figure, secondly she looks so much nicer than your monk. I do think maybe the highlights could stand being slightly sharper though.

Don't wait for motivation - force yourself to do at least something on a project on a set schedule. If I come home and I'm wiped out, I still shade and highlight a little detail or something on a model, or scrape a few moldlines. When I actually am really juiced up to paint for a longer period I'm always happy to have extra progress, and it creates momentum

I agree, I'm still working out how to get good transitions to sharp highlights, though I did lose control of the skin highlighting on her upper torso unfortunately. And honestly, the Bushido minis are pretty nice (and obscure) cool to see someone else appreciates them. I've actually got several more I'm painting up - 3 Ro-Kan people for 4 elements masters, the time mage dude, and Itsunagi Ito.

pretty damn faultless. Pallette is a bit drab but that suits the subject at least

My only nitpick is that I can see the bands of colour in the transitions on his shoulder horn, it looks like you painted around instead of feathering up and down it.

These are fucking rad, great work user.

Vindicare is dope, but I'm relatively new to painting. I know the face mask needed to be more thinned.

Solid effort. The paints basically where it should be, everything's a bit flat though. Use washes to add some depth to the metallics and the skull on the base.

Just ordered some Necrons to expand my army:
3x boxes of warriors
3x boxes of immortals
2× boxes of lychguard
1x box of tome blades
A cryptek and an overlord

I love the winter bolstering that comes with the holidays.

Real nice.

> 40c/104f and all my paints have melted through their containers and pooled into a giant mess of goo on the floor of my shed

>dont feel like walking through the great Simpson to buy new brushes from the general store, since mine all caught fire

>pet kangaroo doesnt want to play killteam, told me to fuck off while he drinks goon under the tree

who /sydneymodelling/ here
christ it's hot

Oh, yes! I have only basecoated thus far. I will highlight sometime in the next week or so if I can make time. I'll report back when he's done.

I'm pretty sure all the Aussies on the planet are actually working at our ski resorts in Banff.

Got the opposite problem here, week long cold snap and I can't go out and spray prime so I'm stuck assembling models and waiting.

Battleship is now basically finished (a couple of small areas need to be touched up but that's about it).
I've got to paint the target arcs onto the base and then paint the ships name on.
Just wondering the best way to make sure I get it even looking and in the middle of the base. I've tried before and it just ends up looking wonky and bad.

Nice green blue blend. Is this the Scourge equivalent to the UCM Beijing, or is it one of the smaller ones?

Thanks, I think blues and teals are basically the only colours I use anymore and I need to branch out again.
Yea this things the same class as the Beijing.

working on my bases for my harlequins. Can't decide if I want to brighten the base or keep it a little on the darker side so it doesn't contrast with my already dark color scheme. Also this is from my phone so it might be sideways and over sized.

They sure are, user :).

The palette is slightly less drab in person. The photo is slightly washed out cause I can't use a camera properly.

Yeah, my transitions on that aren't as good as I was hoping. The lovely Australian summer made my shades dry extremely quick, so by the time I put it on and got to draging it out to smooth the transition it was half dried already so the outer ring would dry and leave a mark. To counter that I just did bands of thinned shade, obviously not thin enough. The blown up photo makes it more noticeable, but it is still there, nonetheless.

Thank you, kind anons :).

I wonder if a drying retarder would be enough to counter your Aussie daystar?

Would anyone here happen to have a 1/100 model tank to compare against a can of soda? I'm looking into more models lately and want some scale that I'm more familiar with.
Also, are Zvezda models good? I got a Revel kit last year and didn't care for the plastic they used.

>amazing paintjob
>photos with multiple shots in them
>still less than 1 MB per image

Amazing how that works out. The one person who actually can justify posting giant 10 MB collages has the decency to crop and resize. Fucking amazing, I guess there really is a correlation between intelligence and painting ability.

How do you do the different colors on the green plate. I think people told me it was just washes and highlights in the past but mine never looks like that. If it's a wash it looks dirty, if I clean up the wash, it looks plain. Did you do blending?

Just got this in the mail, thank you Texanon! Yours is on its way as well, so don't be discouraged!

I have no clue what the metal helicopter in here is for, though.

Just don't share at /wip/ cause these niggas gonna put you down with their negativity

/wip/ gets the finished versions of minis I'm actually proud of, rather than the ones I just got painted for play.
Facebook is a hugbox where I get motivation, /wip/ is where I get critique or the silence that means it's an average paintjob with nothing obviously wrong with it.

do you have an actual page or do you just share it on your wall? I ask because i have a page with a half-dozen likes and i want to grow that number for no reason i can discern.

It's a rough crowd but I wouldn't trade it for anything else

I love you /wip/

I instagram and tumblr the stuff that I share with /wip/, I spam a filter of my FB friends with progress pics and don't feel guilty because the silly bastards opted in. I'd like to get onto the official webpage one of these days, but should probably pick up a lightbox when I'm less skint.

If you want to grow a tumblr following, try to get reblogged by Robbie McNiven (a-40k-author), fucking everyone into 40k on tumblr follows him.

It's really good to get critique in here, I'm trying to improve to where I feel like I wouldn't be wasting everyone's time entering Golden Daemon in a year or two.

I just want my dudes to look good and make me proud.

I've been doing a very simple black power armour for my marines, but I'm painting each one with care and love, instead of batch painting 30 guardsmen at a time like in my main army. They aren't the best but make me happy

That's good, thanks. I'll keep it in mind.

I've been experimenting with wet blending and counter-layering to generate smoother transitions across shades.

But what I was more wondering was in terms of what colors to use to generate the skin tones in .

Most of the paint schemes I've found use airbrushes. I don't have one.

More Tsons

Who you callin a nigga nigga

youtu.be/jnAf9Cldbm0 and
youtu.be/2c3_SsR4AxM

have some of what you're looking for, but honestly just treat the Vallejo colours he's using as a starting point and start really learning to mix skin colours.

youtube.com/watch?v=5s7_WbiR79E

I'll have plenty of spare bits to try it on; the kit comes with like 3 times as many arms as you need.

Wish me luck.

ebay.com/itm/New-3-Airbrush-Compressor-Kit-Dual-Action-Spray-Air-Brush-Set-Tattoo-Nail-Art-/140975810534
Does this airbrush kit look viable? It's kind of suspiciously cheap, I would have expected twice this price.

I cant speak for the compressor, but I bought a $30 master airbrush around 2 years ago and I love it. Its not fancy, but it gets the job done for me.

Same. They are Iwata clones so while the tolerance is not super great, the design itself is solid. I am doing some two tone priming on my Bloodletters with it right now.

Do they dit Iwata parts, or did they just copy the action?

>do they fit
Fuck my phone

The tolerances and trigger smoothness are basically 99% of the reason you pay for a pricier airbrush.

If you don't give a shit about fit and finish and don't care because you're too ham handed to feel the gumminess of a mushy cheap trigger, there's zero reason to buy a branded airbrush.

It very well may. I'll probably pick some up next time I resupply. Do any anons have any suggestions of brands? I was just gonna go with Vallejo.

I wouldn't assume too much of my intelligence, user :p.

I'll give you a rundown of exactly how I did it.-
Primed black
Airbrushed Dryad Bark all over. Airbrushed Death World Forest(DWF) only parallell and from above, leaving the brown as shadows on the underside. All over wash of undiluted Holy Agrax. Thinned down DWF layer, leaving a gap where the shaded parts are so I've got my brown shadows, shaded DWF and then pure DWL, dragging my strokes towards where light would hit. This drags the pigment up further to give a small gradient. Then I mix in a little bit of Straken Green and do the same, but leaving some of the DWF. Repeat the last step but making the highlights more and more focused on where light would be hitting. From here I do an edge highlight of Nurgling Green on all the edges that would receive light from above and on sharper edges that don't. Finally, I paint basically just dots of Screaming Skull on the sharpest edges that would receive light.

I should note that I use a wet palette, so all my thinning is done passively and with water. The rust in the armour holes is just Typhus Corrosion and then some Forge World rust pigments with a small dot of Runefang Steel on some edges. This isn't "realistic" having shiny bits on the rust, but it just helps it stand out. I just go with the mindset that the rust is so caked on, it can get knocked off which shows new metal underneath.

I hope this made sense, user, feel free to ask if you need more info or of I potatoed any explanations.

Seems like a good deal, now I'm just worried about the ventilation and humidity of the greenhouse I was going to use to airbrush in. You really can't airbrush in 40 degree weather, right?

Packing my secret santa box now. What would you give to someone if you didn't have any sprues to spare?

I airbrush at my desk, put some paper down with a box to spray into. If your doing smaller projects, you'll probably only be spraying for short periods of time. If you cover your desk up the worst that can happen is you'll get some dust around. I wouldn't spray enamels indoors, but most acrylic paint will be just fine, get you a little particle mask if it freaks you out.

i wish i knew what determined how my camera chooses resolution for photos

nuln oil

Dice, candy, dragon dildos, you know normal stuff.

Nice! I love the necron models, but they sure can be a bore to paint sometimes.

I missed Bad Dragon's cyber monday sale. What a shame.

I really, really want someone to get a dragon dildo now

I'd darken it a bit

i'm sure it's already happened, people are just too embarrassed to post the pictures.

Why the fuck would they be embarrassed, it's not like they CHOSE to receive a dragon dildo.

>well it'd be rude of me not to use this

>live at home
>suddenly worried that i'm going to recieve a dragon dildo
i sure fucking hope not

If you do get one just claim it's a Tyranid capillary tower or something. Problem solved.

I decided to try out some heavy battle damage, and to do it before I do washes or anything, so I can get that oily corrosion effect once I drop nuln/agrax in all the cuts in the armour.

The mk4 marines on the right are what they'll look like (these ones got no battle damage).

blessed be, brother. good work.

People keep posting 30k stuff and it's making me really tempted to get some stuff to paint but my backlog is massive already.
Being a slow painter is suffering.

I've never had more passion for painting than when I stopped playing tabletop miniature games that require big armies.

Did you get the whole Prospero box, or just the Custodes? I just grabbed the Ahriman from that set on ebay and I can't decide whether to assemble him completely before painting or paint the major bits separately since there's so much parts overlap.

>is this PVA glue?
>Oh, it's cum-lube
>...
>that was thoughtful

Now I want to see someone get a dragon dildo and incorporate it into his nid army

i got the whole box to split with a mate. the custodes are the first thing i've started on. i wish i'd sub-assembly painted them though.

>be slow painter
>finally get motivation to get shit done, and quickly this time too
>weather and other shit prevents you from actually starting

What the fuck, universe.

Finally about to order some wulfen heads for my 13th company.

It's both a blessing and a curse, they might be boring but on the plus side they can be painted fast. Also I can't believe I forgot that I ordered a Triarch Stalker and a C'tan shard of the deceiver. You wouldn't happen to know how to paint one, would you?

not that user but
assuming you're going for the stock scheme
prime black
basecoat caliban green
drybrush, focusing on edges, warpstone glow, twice
at this point, if you feel like its too bright, wash all over with the current GW green wash, or nuln oil
very light drybrush on the edges with one more layer of warpstone glow just to make it stand out from the washed parts
final drybrush on moot green only on the edges and corners
its piss easy to do, but boring

Ask DLFG sometime, she knows a thing or two about capillary towers.

>DLFG
which dirty namefag is that, exactly

I should have been specific, I meant the deceiver shard ;_;
Kill me, brother.

Dick Leaper's Fag Gorgon

Deathleaper's Fangirl

newfag

What's a good kit to get for 28mm/heroic female conversion fodder besides Witch (A)Elves?

I'm not to worried about head or hair sculpts, mostly care about body proportions.

ah, the deciever should be pretty easy
prime black
basecoat retributor armour
layer auric armour gold
wash all over with seraphim sepia, making sure it doesnt pool on any flattish surface, making sure it builds up in the abs and muscle striations. if you want hella contrast, thin down druuchi violet a fuck ton, with acrylic medium, and paint it into the deepest recesses, it doesn appear purple, but it gives super deep and clean contrast against bright gold.
go back over with auric armour till its shiny
this step is optional, but i sometimes like to mix lamenters yellow glaze with seraphim sepia and use it over the flatter and uppermost areas.
final highlights with some bright silver if you want, but this isnt totally necessary
i havent seen them shit up a thread in a while, forgive me for not knowing each and every namefag out theree

>just finished a unit
>will never ever post to /wip/ because my preferred style is rough, I suck at picking out details, and my camera work would get me laughed off faster than anything
You guys keep up the good work though. I guess I'm going to start a land speeder and a mount next.

nah fuck that I post my shit even tho its garbage and the lighting sucks and everything in general is just sub par. Gotta get better somehow right? I've posted this before but some dude on here helped make him look a lot better than when I first posted him. the tips ppl give here are pretty good, despite half of them being super cunts about giving them.

Agree.
Whenever I look at the latest white dwarf and I see a painting showcase or a table full of miniatures that are in a war with eachother all I see is neat, vibrant colours, the armor is all perfect and you can't see a scratch or a proof that these marines or creatures haven't been into combat at all so far. It's like that comparison about the knight in shiny armor that hasn't seen combat in his life but he is called a knight.
Rough is the best, you tell a story for each scratch on the armor, for each scar on his face. He had a reason there's mud on his knees and hands, maybe that day, he had to crawl through the trenches so low because his men died one by one in this conquest.