WIP: Work in Progress

over the whole thing? I've seen nuln oil used a lot lately, so have been thinking of picking up a pot. How does it compare in shading to Devlan mud? Asking since I already have that.

speaking of terrain, my friend told me an old WD had a guide on how to make a kind of ogre thunderdome arena, would anyone know what issue that is, or have any tips on making a little arena, for stuff like killteam and hinterlands games

top left is nuln i beleive
personally i prefer agrax earthshade for most things

The highlights on the cloak are way too thick, and the black in the skin is a bit too stark, might be better if it were a bit thinner

unfinished (and somewhat orange) ruined fort made out of a chunk of castle-shaped polystyrene.

oh good, I have two pots of Badab Black. The name change threw me off. Glad I didn't get a pot after all.

thanks for the constructive feedback famalam xD really loved this post!

Noted. Will work on both issues.

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very nice, are those from a kit? i've been after some fantasy style terrain to fit a town for a while

Well you have the Laketown bunde houses at 70 pounds, that can make for a nice city, or if you need a graveyard, the garden of Morr is a favorite of mine.

Is it me, or did GW used to have a lot more fantasy terrain/houses/etc before AoS? Shame they scrapped those ones.

Nice shitpost. Honestly though I don't even know where to begin, it's like someone posting a picture of a drawing where they haven't even grasped the concept of how to colour inside the lines. How do you explain to someone how to colour in the lines, without using that phrase because they clearly haven't understood it already?

lol o ya well ur gay

Thanks! And, no, those and he house pictured are all scratch-built from balsa wood, foam core, sheet styrne and wood-filler putty (except the barrels and boxes).

user, are you having a stroke?

Yes.

>all those tries
>still missed the "t" on "the"

Ya'll just mad jelly of my extra autism.

Reposting these guys, just need to be based.

dont think splinter guns have shells

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Looks great but what's with the divots?

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The houses there are a bit to nice and orderly for it to fit in Warhammer imo. Needs to be a bit more contorted and warped in like the foundation is fucked up

Those are for Lord of the Rings.

don't use a black inline to separate two pieces of flesh on a miniature. it looks weird, unless you are going for a cell-shaded look. Instead use brown or a darker skin colour.

Early attempt at making a hill. I wanted something more visually interesting than a flat 90-degree drop (I don't do sloped hills since minis just fall off all the time anyway). I have moved on to doing hills like pic related. I want clear-cut edges to the hill for rules purposes. I can just make an extra 1" support stand if a model needs to have it's base over the edge.

It's battle field debris

I actually am going for the cell-shaded look.

It doesn't translate very well as is. Will wait to see the finished product, in that case.

I gotta agree with the nuln oil crowd here. Dude is real small, so you could base, wash the oil on and paint beyond the recesses to get a similar effect. The paint looks way too thick in most places as it stands. I like what you were going for and I dont want you to stop, but I suggest trying out a different method or thinning your paints a bit more. hard to build up to that light brown from black, I'm guessing.

yeah I'll give the nuln oil/badab black wash a go, then touch up the highlights, see if that helps transition things a bit more

Stealing this idea

Good luck, user.

Also, reposting from last thread.

Oh damn, that was you? Yeah, I'll definitely be taking your advice, not that I wasn't going to anyway. They look amazing btw.

First ten of my headtaking cannibals.

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Pretty solid work mate.

Forgot to say the base rims still need tidying up, but I'm torn over black or something else, like a Steel Legion Drab?

Thank m8s.

I remember seeing a tutorial for making barbed wire out of mesh, but can't seem to find it anymore. Does anyone know a similar one?

Painting a leman russ for the first time. Next step is shitloads of mud.

youtu.be/jIX7EmiOsro

The Terrain Tutor is generally the go to for, you guessed it, terrain.

Sorry, looking for the wire-mesh method, not the regular wire method.

He does have a part on mesh though. It's very short, but you can even see the mesh on the video's miniature.

Look around 3 minutes in.

>that tiny muzzle
come on m8 it's a heavy bolter not a peashooter

If I had bigger drillbits then obviously it would be bigger. I'll just have to paint it black for now.

Hey guys, what do people usually use for a base when building scenery? I know it's some sort of foam but what kind? And there was also some kind of board needed but I can't remember that, either.

Styrofoam

It wasn't styrofoam. Something else. Installation foam?

>Installation foam?

Insulation foam. Pink stuff, you get it in big boards. MDF would probably be the board.

privateerpress.com/hobby/hobby-blog/trollkin-waystones

This blog post talks a lot about basing materials.

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I noticed Duncan doesn't use Agrax Earthshade as often anymore.

Like this? homedepot.com/p/MDF-Panel-Common-1-2-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Actual-0-500-in-x-49-in-x-97-in-988531/206512481

Do you put anything under it for steadiness? Like cardboard.

That's coming along very nicely.

just use a pointy modeling knife and use the tip like a drill and then once you have a decent-ish hole you can make it look tubular

So how thin should I make my Pallid Wych Flesh in order to get a good even, on-chalky surface on my vehicles?

*non-chalky

Yeah good idea, I'll give it a go. If I fuck it up I'm going to REEE at you though despite it being entirely my fault

First stages of mud are done.

Not mine, but I just witnessed this in my local GW

Hope your GW is ok after the earthquake user.

Phone number? I'm calling in a deathstrike.

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I was too autistic to ask if I could take a photo so I rushed it please kill me

There are not panties user, you don't need to be careful nor stealthy

>there are
Wow, I'm tired

If you're making something fairly squat like a hill or solid building, then there's no need. Just leave the bottom of the foam piece flat. Use a base if the terrain itself would be tippy or fragile, like ruined buildings, trees, tall industrial thingamabobs, etc.

MDF or masonite works well for a base. Foamboard would be okay for some stuff. Balsa wood or other types of thin wood lathe work for relatively small pieces like objective markers or short sandbag bunkers.

Love that you have taken the time to paint different skin tones. Good work user, pretty solid.

Says something abut the UK that I can't get a board like this for anywhere near that price. Even 2x4 MDF boards seem to be priced at around £14... so about $20 each. :P

That is literally the only size like that in my area. Everything else is unavailable. My home depot is a shithole, haha.

Great work on the weapons and skin.

Why the darker skin tones though? I'm not familiar with the AoS lore but they were from the frozen north in WHF.

I never hear people talking about vallejo premium. I bought these 3 some months ago, the white is very thin and it need a lot of coats but i guess it happens with all the whites. But the blue green and specially the black are top level, excellent coverage, prethinned(a bit of water dont hurt though), dropper bottle and airbrush ready.
Have you tried these?

What do you guys think, should I paint the bumbs on the back wanes, and other parts of the wraithknight as gems as well?

I am unsure if I should do that, and if I should go with purple, blue or green gems.

They offer their prisoners the chance to either feast on their former comrades or be the feast, so in AoS they should have a real mishmash of peoples. Also doing the same flesh is boring as fuck and I wanted to learn to paint different skin tones.

if you painted all of those bumbs as gems it would look insane

and i like insane

For an ork bastion I went to a thrift store, bought an old clipboard and chopped the metal assembly off. 9 x 12 inch chipboard (mdf?) sheet for one dollar.

If you go to a framing shop you and asj about backing-board remnants you might get cheap ends and scraps of foamboard or similar material.

Consider the light source - usually from above - and focus your darkest colors on the opposite side. For example, the top half of the tail would be "segmented" in lighter colors, with only the underside using black. Still a bit heavy for my tastes though.

tinyworlds.co.uk/blog/swamp-scenery-basing/

So, I take it that you don't like the base for the oil spill?

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Oh, it's supposed to be oil? Yeah, I have never tried oil because the rainbow shine effect sounds too complex.

This is how Aeldari should always look.

Can we please stop with that aeldari shit?

Okay, so for the user who asked yesterday I'm going to post some photos and go over the recasting process with blue stuff. Today I'm going to be remaking my jump pack mold to include a left arm bolt gun I need, and I'll be posting the process as I go.First things first, you need a frame and a press, which I make out of Legos. This is very important. You really can't make good molds without these. Trust me, I tried, and then an user was kind enough to enlighten me. My frame and press can be seen on the right. We'll get started on the mold itself in a minute once my blue stuff has softened.

Next, and I'm sure you already know this part but I'm just going to post in sequence as I go for those who aren't familiar with the process, put the blue stuff into the frame and spread it in. Then press the parts you want to cast into the blue stuff. After that you wait for the blue stuff to cool and harden. Do not put on the other half of the mold before then.

When the first half has cooled take the second half and spread it over the parts and the first half. Then take the press and put it on top of the blue stuff in the frame. Press down firmly on the press with the palm of your hand. This pushes the blue stuff tight against the pieces, meaning it gets flush and captures the detail. After you've pressed it down firmly let the mold sit until cooled.

I want start painting my Dark eldar and eldar start collecting sets.

The Dark Eldar id like to paint like pic related but I have no idea how to get this effect without hours of careful brush work. Is there a simple way to do it?

Also want to paint a start collecting Eldar kit (probably red too as it is combined eldar armor color)

But I dislike sam haen and most eldar craftworlds.

>Is there a simple way to do it?

No.

>without hours of careful brush work
But that's Fun*