WIP - Work In Progress General

JOHNNY Edition

>Citadel Painting Guides:
mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Figure painter magazine issues 1-36
mega.nz/#F!0AIGDAxL!xOT6MK3oiGpBB1pQaNy5lg

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting Videos only
mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>DIY Spraybooth
starshipmodeler.com/tech/pa_booth.htm

>DIY Wet Palette
youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM

>How to Moldlines
youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint (yes, the ellipses are part of the URL!)
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>Priming With Acrylic Gesso
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Priming_With_Acrylic_Gesso

>Green Stuff Casting
fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2011/11/molding-and-casting-shoulderpads.html
masteroftheforge.com/2012/05/21/rubber-molds-green-stuff/
masteroftheforge.com/2012/07/17/green-stuff-cast-shoulder-pad/

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>Reinforcements are on-route
youtube.com/watch?v=l_uH54r0lP4

Previous thread:

Other urls found in this thread:

games-workshop.com/de-DE/Solitaire
twitter.com/NSFWRedditVideo

Pretty much finished now.
I somehow managed to fuck up his power sword, so I'm going to replace it with a chainsword.

and his back

Looks rad my dude. The sword looks a bit flat, but I'm sure you could fix it with wash + sharp highlights to bring it in line with the quality of the rest of the model.

What are you lads drinking to stay properly hydrated while painting?

Im drinking diet snapple in between sips of paint water to really get the creative juices flowing.while i paint some death watch shoulder pads

Obligatory muh first model post
This was the first 28mm model that I've done, and also my first attempt at edge highlighting.
Personally I think I could have done the following things better:
-Actually remove the mold lines, but thankfully there weren't many
-Edge highlighting technique. At first I was trying to use tip of my brush which resulted in some uneven lines. Later on I tried to use the side of my brush where I could to do the edge highlight, which resulted in more even lines.
-On a similar note, I could have highlighted more areas than I did
-Not hold the mini with an iron death grip. I was holding it so tight that paint sometimes rubbed off came off of the model, and an arm came off one time.
-I feel like a I did a sloppy job painting the Bolt Rifle
-The basing is pretty basic but I guess it works for this.

>what are you lads drinking
paint water

...

nice try duncan

For a first attempt, this is awesome. Maybe green eyes would bring the helmet to life?

Nice work, batanon.
10/10 display quality

Finished my second unit of skitarii vanguard. I got a few things I wanna do better on my other wip units but I'm very happy how they turned out.

look great, I can't help but think black rims on the bases would look nicer though

Sometimes after painting up a squad of dudes I take a swig, so that I too can share in the cameraderie of their colors

Speaking of paint water, do you guys do the thing where you suck on the tips of your brushes to get the point back on them? Seems to work pretty well.

Every modeler does that it seems
I do it too

I don't

I generally roll and pull the brush along the tissuepaper I'm drying it on, works well enough for me.

Cultist wip

Beautiful. How did you get the brass looking so good?

Is there an official guide for painting Grey Knights?

I mostly followed the GW skitarii painting guide for the brass

leadbelcher > brass scorpion > agrax earthshade (which I apply pretty liberally) > stormhost silver (seems to result in stronger highlights than runefang steel)

y-you too

I'm trying to paint the screen on a primaris marines wrist, i'm a little bit unsure about the sort of effect that it needs, anyone able to post some to give me some inspiration?

>When you just want to fucking paint your models but Amazon is taking their sweet ass time shipping your new brushes.
>When the supposed day of delivery the mail person posts a "missed you" pamphlet without ever coming to the door.

For fucks sake. I'm trying to paint 130 Guardsmen here.

Friends 5eva

A delivery service managed to ship my packet from Spain to Ireland instead of germany. Fuck DPD. They're not ordentlich.

While not this package, I've had the post office somehow ship my stuff to California instead of Ohio in the US. They somehow got my gran's info and shipped it there despite me never GIVING them that info.

Hello, folks. Could you guys recommend 'priming' spray for white armor? Not sure GW's Corax White gonna have enough pigment strength.

One other time I used Mr. Resin Primer (light grey) and it was ok, but can't find it on ebay anymore.

Are large scale figures, busts, and other non-gaming models allowed in these threads, or is there a designated place for that?

I'm fairly certain we take anything painting related that isn't straight up art on a canvas or something

unless you are doing something better suited for an art board, hell yea user, show us what you got

Good to know, I don't have anything done at the moment, but it is in my painting queue.

also postan from 40kg, want to try some legion of the damned

how do you paint "realistic" flames without ending up with Guy Fieri tshirt paint job

I'm thinking base coat black, very thin layers of red, (red parts of flame seem to be somewhat transparent) and then moving up to the source with orange and then yellow, while using thicker paints and so less opaque

>finished work
>work in progress thread
pick as many as you'd like, we're all friends here

lots of yellow and white highlighting I would assume

the best looking flames always look like they are glowing and have only a few darker places

I think I'm almost done with my second model ever. The flail/pistol/knife all need touched up, as do a few things like the boots where I accidentally put paint over previously painted areas.

I'm not sure if I really like this color scheme yet. I love the purple but the red seems a bit too much. The gray is OKAY but it's a bit boring, IMO.

Does anyone have any tips/recommendations/feedback? Also, is there a way to get a decent picture without having to go out and buy a ton of stuff to build a lightbox? All of mine always seem to come out super washed out.

(Also, I know about the moldlines. I primed all of my models before anyone ever mentioned them and don't plan to strip all of them to remove the lines.)

I'd avoid actual flames and just paint cracks in the armour to suggest that all that within is fire. Simply because flames are pretty hard to get right on a flat surface when you are trying to give the impression of movement and all that.

Thought I'd take a better pic for you guys of the typhus wip I posted yesterday

Just got back from the store with this big ol $60 pile of paint.

How does this look? I accidentally bought Straken Green instead of Niblet Green, but I think I might use Straken Green anyway, I'm trying to pull off the Pre-Heresy Salamanders Look, which is why I got bronze instead of gold, but I'm not sure exactly what paints I would need to make that shade of green.

Skavenblight is for Salamander skin, small details and highlighting black.
Stormvermin is for highlighting the Skavenblight.

Mephiston is for helmet lenses and purity seals, and also flame details (I still need an orange, yellow and white for fire, but I'm not worrying about those since I want to improve my general just painting skills before I do any freehand stuff.

Copper is for my metals I think, unless I want something else, I'm sure the store will let me trade out colors because they are cool, so I could get like Balthazar Gold or something, but I think Hashut Copper will look fine.

Screaming Skull is for purity seal parchment.

Waaagh! Flesh, Warpstone Glow and Straken Green are for armor. Like I said I meant to get Niblet Green which I was going to use to highlight the Warpstone glow, but I'm sure what I'm doing now.

I'm going back to the store on thursday or friday to pick up Nuln Oil and Leadbelcher and maybe some more colors, because they're getting a new shipment in and I asked them to set those two colors aside for me.

Oh and the Evil Sunz Scarlet is for highlighting the Mephiston and for painting the eyes on helmetless Salamanders.

I'm wanting to get a look something like pic related but I'm not sure how to pull it off. Particularly I think the Dreadnought, and the two models in this pic look really good, and I want something as close to their look as I can get.

Looking to support my LGS; what are some must have Citadel paints?

Nuln Oil, Agrax Earthshade, metallics, the technical line up, especially Blood for the Blood God if you want the look of fresh glistening blood.

Even if you want to cheap out an buy Privateer Press or Vallejo for colors, Citadel's washes, metallics and technicals are all wonderful lineups that are hard to properly find alternatives for.

Tips for faces? My first Squad Sergeant looks like Stephen Lang.

if they have Vallejo then buy those instead. Citadel are good for the washes though (Nuln Oil and Agrax Earthshade especially)

>implying I would ever go out with a girl who doesn't thin their paints

>Implying you would ever go out with a girl

>implying I would ever go out

>That white on the shoulder pads
thin your paints lad

But seriously the trick to faces I've found is a ton of slightly lighter/darker layers. Make yourself a wet pallet (this is important as it keeps your paints workable as well as allowing you to use your mixes on other minis in a batch so you do the hard part first) and put a glob of your Flesh paint and a glob of White/Light grey in the other.
Do the basecoat with no mixing, then get a small amount of white and the flesh and mix it away from both globs. It has to be noticeably lighter but only just, then just draw back what areas you paint so the lightest areas get smaller and smaller (the final layer will be on the tip of the nose and on the brow and this colour should be really light).

I usually then finish with a very light coating of Reiksland Fleshshade to tone it down a littler and get some nice dark recesses. This sounds trickier than what it really is, just trust your eye and after a few trys you'll get the hang of it

Unfortunately they're just starting out and only have Citadel. Are all of the paints themselves forgettable and I should just focus on the washes/technicals?

Citadel is fine, I'm just a big fan of the Vallejo stuff as it's what I've always had since I first started

Citadel is good, just slightly more expensive and i dont like the pots compared to dropper bottles

Best cheaper alternative to Chaos Black spray?

buy an airbrush, expensive to begin with but it'll be the best purchase you ever make in the hobby

Very nice. Would seek skulls with.

This but in black

Reposting my finished product because I had it upside down. Thoughts? Also, would I be a gay fucker if I used the lightning camo on my marines?

Just ordered some Winsor & Newton brushes from the UK because they're so fucking cheap.
Got a single 00, and a boxed set of the 0, 1, 2, and 3 posted to Australia for $75 (about $60 USD).

don't use Chaos Black spray. It's not a primer. Go get a black Rustoleum primer at Wal-Mart or something.

>all the other colors cost 3.98
>black is $11
They know

Just go to walmart why are you shipping primer

DUNCAN DISAGREES WITH YOU CITIZEN

I just use grey. Seems to work just fine.

Because if I go to walmart I have to leave my house.

Humanity has been building, evolving, growing for years to come to the point where a neckbeareded weirdo can go for years at a time without ever seeing or interacting with another human in person.

Is Papa Nurgle going to be upset if I don't bother highlighting the plague marines for now? I really just want to get them ready for playing (this is my first army) and don't have easy access to the necessary colors.

ya gonna learn today, son

Just blend my friend. Add some white to whatever you were using for a base. It's not perfect, but it works for some quick highlights to get your boys tabletop ready.

The Series 7 are the best brushes I have ever used

Can anyone either
A. Tell me where I can buy a fucking Eldar Solitaire
B. Direct me to a Not!Warhammer seller that sells Not!Solitaires
C. Help me kitbash a Solitaire (I'm usually pretty good at this but they just don't look distinctive enough to where I can come up with an idea that I'm happy with)
D. Direct me to Chinaman I can buy it from

Pretty please? Really want this model and I fucking refuse to buy from asshole ebayers who basically scalp the models.

>implying you can get out

Not at the hardware store

games-workshop.com/de-DE/Solitaire

Home Depot reporting:
Black rustoleum primer costs just the same as every other color primer, ~$4 USD. I'd go for straight primer, though, and be wary of color+primer paints.

Danke aber mein Deutsch ist nicht gut. Can I import them? I'm willing to eat a high shipping cost but I don't want it to take months to arrive.

... why does that commissar have a tyranid claw?

Tried to paint Greyfax, not really sure if I'm happy with how it turned out. Also, can't figure out what kind of base I want for her.

clean up the red details on the cloak. go over with black.

Highlight the gold.

Looking good user

>Can I import them? I'm willing to eat a high shipping cost but I don't want it to take months to arrive.
Yeah sure. If you order in Germany they'll send it to you. Used to be I had to order in the UK to get the books in English.
Doesn't matter to them.
I can't really tell you how long it'll take, but I'd assume it could take anywhere from two to six weeks.

I'm assuming you are in the US btw, cause the Solitaire is out of stock in the US store.
Note it say 'temporarily out of stock online'.
Kind of implies they're gonna make more, right? Unless there is something I don't know.

Another thing you could try would be just to check out local gamestore's inventory or other small online stores around.
Some are bound to have stock of it.

Yeah I am in the US. What's happening are fuck heads are buying them out on the website as soon as they have stock of it and selling them at much higher prices. Can't get em on any other online retailers, not even Amazon, and all the FLGSs are out as well.

Thanks user, I'll look around for a bit longer and if I still have no luck I'll just order from a Euro site.

It's in store at the UK store as well, just in case it's cheaper in GBP than EUR

BULLgryn-user here with another update...I may have overdone it.

I couldn't stand that the texture inside the partially closed hand was wrong, so I dremel'd it out and put in some green stuff...and then I had to texture it manually.

None of my tools would fit...so I had to use a scalpel. What you see is after about two hours of trying over and over to get the right look; it's the best I could do.

That space is about 3x9 millimeters. I have never strained my eyes so hard.

And on all but two of the final pieces it won't even be visible once everything's assembled and painted.

that's some dedication

Angels Revenant?

He's a plaything of the Laughing God, he'll probably change form so many times it would make your head spin, let alone his

>implying I can ever escape the nightmare that is Veeky Forums

even if you do, theres only one way to escape the nightmare of reality.

There's one way

I think I maybe over doing it. I'm trying to give my marine a glaze highlight but with the amount of time it's taking me just to do one guy I am wondering if I should just revert back to doing edge highlighting and save the glazing business for my HQs. What's your guys experience been with this?

You know what I hate more than painting camo?
Painting ebay rescues

the conversion itself is kinda weirdly proportioned but the paintwork is insanely good

Thanks, yeah he does look kinda squatty from the front but normal from behind

Thx I've been pretty happy with the paint work so far hopefully will finish the base and scythe tonight

You need to be a little more careful with your exacto knife, user.

Finished a squad of GSC. The amount of effort they take relative to the model count of the army is gonna kill me.

Not WIP .. but do you think these are above table top standard?

no

I literally said in the post where I got it from...

I mean the paint looks really thick but it's not awful or anything I'd say it's table top quality

Model looks fine.


What's that in the bottom right?

I can see the effort but it's really too thicc to be above "standard". That chalkiness too, but that could be partially the lighting. Needs some diffusion.

Painting some Angels Vermillion?