WIP - Work in Progress General

WIP - /wipg/ Painting and Modeling Thread
>Citadel Painting Guides:
mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Figure painter magazine issues 1-36
mega.nz/#F!0AIGDAxL!xOT6MK3oiGpBB1pQaNy5lg

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting Videos only
mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>DIY Spraybooth
starshipmodeler.com/tech/pa_booth.htm

>DIY Wet Palette
youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM

>How to Moldlines
youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo

miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint (yes, the ellipses are part of the URL!)
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>Priming With Acrylic Gesso
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Priming_With_Acrylic_Gesso

>Green Stuff Casting
fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2011/11/molding-and-casting-shoulderpads.html
masteroftheforge.com/2012/05/21/rubber-molds-green-stuff/
masteroftheforge.com/2012/07/17/green-stuff-cast-shoulder-pad/

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>Archive 1.1.0.7.6.3
youtube.com/watch?v=cSCOaowF2UI

>LAST TIME ON /WIPG/:

So I tried first time ever to do proper edge highlighting. How did I do?

Could be thinner but it's not bad.

First mini after a long way away from the hobby, how am I doing? Sorry about cell phone pic

I like it. You've got some neatening up to do and you could brush some smog onto the pipes, highlight saws.

Where in particular should I neaten up? I have a hard time telling when it's orky and when it's bad technique, y'know?

You have your rust in reverse, you should be making the base of it brown stippled with brighter brown and orange then strategically drybrushed with silver on the outer extremes

Currently 3d printing a Dreadclaw.
Pain in the ass to clean and looks a bit wonky, but free from my college's print lab sure beats 75£ from FW.

The glow on the eye and the blending towards the bottom of the teeth.

its tiny

Maybe a bit overboard with the rust effect?
Looks a bit ridiculous

what do you guys think so far?

probably gonna re-do the eyes in green.

Also do you guys have any advice on what to do with the runes on the bolter? I´d like to have them in a glowing effect but have no idea how to get there

No it's plenty big, the claws are just disproportionately large.

Don't make your highlights so thick and obvious, having a good base instead of water color highlighting makes it look more solid and realistic

I was trying to follow Duncan's video on Ryza Rust. I dunno if they got it backwards or I misinterpreted, but they go leadbelcher base>typhus corrosion layer>ryza rust dry.
I was trying for something like the raider stuff from fallout, shit's basically orange. Maybe a bad idea?

dude when something is completely corroded it's fuzzed out with rust. Bolt a bunch of rusted metal together, slap it on a mek and kill things with it it'll bash other metal things, burnishing the edges. Duncan doesn't know shit and his videos are bad. Follow professionals.

In the time it takes you to print and clean that, you could have easily earned enough money to buy one from FW by doing basically anything on campus. Fuck, even handing out flyers.

When will 3d printing be good?

If I go back in and hit the edges with metallic will it fix it, or should I just try again on the next one?

By that logic doing anything is a waste because for the money and time invested in miniature games you could have bought drugs.

Putting a print going over night and coming back the next day doesn't take a lot of time.

Also it's still the summer holidays so I can have a shit load of prints going at the same time cause no one else is using them. Just put a predator going as well.

It already is if you have an SLA printer.
Also one of the biggest quality bottlenecks is the quality of the 3d models themselves.

I'd post a relevant Spurdo, but I'm on mobile.

Well, sure. If you leave them that way. I assumed you were going to sand the flat panels or use a weak solvent bath to fuzz the layers together. If you don't mind them looking like that and not being able to paint them without the jaggies killing your brushes, it's far easier to just print models.

Strip it with a heavy duty degreaser like Super Clean

I thought you shouldnt leave a printing printer print unsupervised like that

3d printing is fine, its laser cutters you cant leave unsupervised

Pic is a bit blurry

No sensible person should be expected to sit next to a 3d printer for 17 hours while it does it's thing.

Well the cleaning is a huge pain but in the end it's not that more time consuming than properly cleaning resin.

Indeed, if you leave a 3d printer unsupervised and it fucks up it'll leave a big glob of plastic for you to clean up.
If a laser cutter screws up it'll bring down the building in a blazing inferno.

Grot tank?

Make sure it has the appropriate amount of haphazard armour plating and sure.

A little thick, but you definitely got the right idea- I'd just invest in a smaller bruh and make sure to wipe any excess off the brush.

One Bogey.... how does that even work?

did red lenses on my corvus, I like how they turned out but I'm not sure if next time I want to make the black area smaller. Still need to do a layer of ardcoat but I first want the other lenses done.

that blob of plastic won't burn down the building but can fuck up the printer though if it gets wedged into a bad spot.

That's true, still not on quite the same scale though and the thing you'd be printing to pull that off would have to be very awkwardly placed on the edges of the build plate.

I like it! Now you just need to personalize it a bit with some remains of chipped paint on the rust-dominant areas, and some ork symbols or patterns on the shoulder plates! The skull face is great.

Also the duct-tape/ leather strap bands on the pipes in the back look like they need highlighting and shading.

Perhaps consider adding some caked/ dried blood to the buzz saws?

Thanks. Im planning to try fix it up a bit where I got sloppy.

Phone camera sucks cock.

It looks like something made out of candy

...

A little progress on the Tech Baron. Went with P3 Underbelly blue for the body armour, it complements the orange and yellow quite nicely I think. Not sure what those things hanging from his hip are, looks like either cartridges or cut off fingers.

ffs, phone

...

God damn that's cute. Where's it from?

World War Toons

Dont listen to The rust looks decent enough and I love the effect the rest of the model has. Certainly don't strip it!

Should I put any basing accessories before or after I put on the texture pain?

I believe they're supposed to be cartridges. Yours look like they've been worn down a little with handling.

Radical/10

Any suggestions on shading/weathering the flat panels of a monolith? Really kinda lost on how to properly do this. Also would getting the snow texture paint and seldomly applying it to the hull look too tacky?

So Veeky Forums I'm planning my next project to be alpha legion because I like their lore. But I need conversion ideas that would fit with the Alpha Legion.

Has any user done something cool with Alpha Legion before?

My ideas right now are to potentially do CSM bodies with regular SM heads, or vice versa, or to even field a mix of SM models and CSM models as troops, all united under the paint scheme, though I'm not sure if that would be too confusing.

Pic related, its the basecoat scheme I wanna use, frankly the 'classic' deep blue with green highlights doesn't look great to me.

Check out Migsula's old Alpha Legion stuff at his old blog
h t t p://legionofplastic.blogspot.com/

Also his IG
h t t ps://www.instagram.com/migsula/

>Also do you guys have any advice on what to do with the runes on the bolter? I´d like to have them in a glowing effect but have no idea how to get there

anyobody?

First attempt at painting yellow. Still have to add more detail and correct some stuff, but I feel rather pleased. Any advice on how to improve or what to add?

I think you could go deeper with the shadows for certain areas like the grooves of his armour or between the fingers. Also, try to pick out the very edges of the armour with something like Screaming Skull.

Started working on my Minotaur Primaris assault squad. Obviously not legal, but no shits given. Still very WiP.

These bits from Anvil Industry work quite nicely - minimal flash, no warping, small mould lines.

>first time paiting yellow
>he does it on the expensive primaris captain

Just buy some cheap snapfit marines so you don't ruin expensive models.

I really hate how those heads look.

I think the heads look a little bit small. Weapons are nice

What are the small blades that come with the CSM kit supposed to be for?

making spikier doods.

It's acrylic paint, it can be removed surprisingly easy. He's not ruining anything.

75 ukp is 25% of my monthly salary.

So, I'm back in the hobby after a hiatus of 12 years or so. I wouldn't say that my painting skills have increased over this time. What's the best way of becoming a better painter? Painting lots of miniatures with room for imperfections or spending a long time painting just a single one?

What are you doing to earn such little money? apprenticeship or something?

Finished Damian, almost done with the Red Hood too, just have to paint his hands, guns, the gun holsters and do some weathering on him.

oh shit I forgot to resize the image this time, sorry about that

different parts of the world is also an option.

Looks really nice

Finland is not a 3rd world country

How's my first ever space Marine coming along?

Abaddon is missing his topknot mate.
Looking good

these look great, needed to get some liquid greenstuff on those joins though.

>all those shiny oiled up abs
>those tight rubber suits

indeed it isn't, but you didn't specify a country now did you. Then you're probably just young, time to save up I suppose.

Has anyone ever done an orange space marine paint scheme?

Any tips and tricks about shading, washing, etc.?

Orange SM schemes are extremely rare for some reason, but I really want to see one

Working on some Khorne berserkers conversions. Thoughts?

>'conversions' that are just the aos zerkers but with chainswords
every time. I mean, they look good, but its not even a conversion at this point considering everyone and their mother does it.

The reason being orange is literally the devil. I find it harder to do a good orange than a good yellow

>it's not a conversion because it's popular
If you're using parts that didn't come from the kit you're working on it's a conversion, even if it's a simple headswap

I had some porblems glueing on the arms of a space marine, could the superglue i used to glue them on paperclip to make painting easier, interfere with the plastic glue?

These are fucking beautiful
out of curiosity, what are you running in your crew?

Yes, plastic glue works by melting the plastic and essentially welding the pieces together. If there's superglue on the surface the glue won't get in contact with the plastic.

First round of washes are done. Will fill in poorly-inked areas once this round dries.

>Check out Migsula's old Alpha Legion stuff at his old blog
Holy fucking Hell.


I have some Alpha Legion "advisors" I toss in with my SM occasionally. I use cut-down Berzerker plastics with all the Chaos icons and arrows cut off, plus a mix of cut-down plastic 4e Chaos bits in my regular marines. Only field the Advisors (as Sternguard...) when I'm up against Ultramarines. I have a team of Fallen I use as well , for similar purposes..

sadly I painted them like ten years ago and am currently deeply ashamed, so no pics from me until their date with Pine-sol.

>but its not even a conversion at this point considering everyone and their mother does it.
considering how old the actual berzerkers pack is, I'd say its alright.

Damn, son, that's sweet. I'd still make the Judge's left-breast medal blue to make it "pop" instead of looking like a penannular brooch, but fine work nonetheless.

Yeah, the superglue roughens and coats the surface. Plastic glue melts the pieces together. It needs smooth-ish, clean surfaces to work. If you drill the arm with a pin vice to mount it on the clip (or heat the paperclip up in a lighter and then jam it into the shoulder joint at an angle) You not only have it pre-pinned, but it won't interfere with the plastic glue as much.

What should I use to cover the Styrofoam of this ruined building project? Plaster?

I would like to prime some models this weekend, but... dammit, Harvey!

PVA glue will seal it if you want to spray it
just use 3-4 coats

Sorry fixed the picture.

Apparently Veeky Forums hates my pictures.

Thanks.

Leader:
- Arkham City Batman

Sidekick:
- Red Hood

Free Agents:
- Damian Wayne

Henchmen:
- Agent O'Connel
- Agent Ron
- Gotham Policeman
- Gotham Policewoman

As for the equipment, I'll decide what to buy once I finish painting them.

Hold your phone at a 90 degrees to the left and take the picture. If it's upside down the you held it at 90 degrees to the right and don't hold the phone vertical.
We should add this to the sticky

has anyone tried painting yellow Plaguebearers or demons of nurgle, and made them look good?

Will do next time.

Almost done with my 7 Plague Marines, only got a few details left and the base, then they are done

there's so much more you could do to them, they look half finished at the moment