WIP - Work In Progress General

No WIP thread on Veeky Forums?!? Emperor's Teeth! That's HERESY!!!

>Citadel Painting Guides:
mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Figure painter magazine issues 1-36
mega.nz/#F!0AIGDAxL!xOT6MK3oiGpBB1pQaNy5lg

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting Videos only
mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>DIY Spraybooth
starshipmodeler.com/tech/pa_booth.htm

>DIY Wet Palette
youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM

>How to Moldlines
youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint (yes, the ellipses are part of the URL!)
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>Priming With Acrylic Gesso
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Priming_With_Acrylic_Gesso

>Green Stuff Casting
fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2011/11/molding-and-casting-shoulderpads.html
masteroftheforge.com/2012/05/21/rubber-molds-green-stuff/
masteroftheforge.com/2012/07/17/green-stuff-cast-shoulder-pad/

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>This planet is ours, witch!
youtube.com/watch?v=7_b-qBTul44

>Previous Thread(s):

>when you have more money than you have good ideas

>when you get told that you overdesign so you overdesign even more

>Huge cannon mounted on backbag
>Not mounted as a dick blaster

Took a while but I rebased my army with a better flock, redid the ork skins by touching it up as well as doing minor details I missed before like tattoos and gums and such.

Wanted to continue work on my SCE conversion idea I had over the weekend for a Celestial Hurricanum, but the flgs is closed due to vacation until the 11th. Now I sit here, staring at the caster with no hurricanum to build...

Is there a specific way you're supposed to put the emblems on Space Marine pauldrons? Also is the studded pauldron supposed to go on the right or the left?

Chapter badge goes on the left, role (tactical, devestator etc. etc.) goes on the right

that's a shame, through you could try to order something online, even though the wait won't be better.

I really dig your SE-wizard, he looks really damm good! How are you gonna paint him up?

...

Yeah, but I prefer to actually buy my shit at the flgs, since I play there as well.

>How are you gonna paint him up?
Same as the rest of my stormhost, silver, brass and red.

Also when did SPESS MUHREENS get such huge bases? The last SPASS MEHREENZ I built had the usual tiny infantry bases.

They're not manlets anymore

>playing stormkikes eterncucks

Forgot pic

You have to go back.

Are there any good dinosaur miniatures or models out there? I really want to paint a dinosaur for some reason.

Second, i need cold one-proxies. Or are the druchii ones the best raptors avaliable somewhat cheap?

Hey anons finished this guy last month. What do you think? The back could use a touch up i know. Been bogged down with study and havent even been able to find time to put paint to brush in like 4 weeks. Although im hoping to finish my flayrant this weekend when i finish all my assignments. Lend me your strength fellas.

Heres the back thats going to get touched up this weekened if i find time.

3 blood angels intercessors down so far

Those chads look magnificent. Manlets are truly doomed

What is going on with the scrolls on pistol guy? Is he standing in a hurricane?

MOULDLINES ARRRGH

Ruins a nice enough paintjob. Also recommend darker brown under the cracking paint on the base rather than bare black.

Old helmets look slightly small, are they way smaller than the stock ones?

Bretty gud, but one thing to add along with what said, it makes it look a bit off when the scrolls are clearly being blown around, but the gun strap is hanging calm. It would be better to either convert a blowing gunstrap, remove it, or have the hip-scrolls less blowy

Mk VII ftw! Seriously, though, any other helmets would look good besides the stock ones though. I do kind of want to see someone try fitting a Mk VI though, with the gorget filed away

Anyone have tips or links for painting skulls?
I've bought an old Spacewolf dreadnought and it's covered in skull-trophies

>Is there a specific way you're supposed to put the emblems on Space Marine pauldrons? Also is the studded pauldron supposed to go on the right or the left?

Generally speaking, chapter emblem goes on the left, company/squad/designations go on the right. However:

-- Terminators and Veterans typically reverse this, with chapter on the right and Crux Terminatus on the left
-- Deathwatch Veterans have home chapter on the right with Deathwatch pauldron on the left.
-- Mk VI armour (usually) has chapter on the right with studded pauldron on the left.

I usually go the Duncan route in whatever video he's doing, but Zandri Dust - Agrax - Ushabti - something lighter (rakarth flesh or white scar, depending) is usually a good approach.

Dig these, the heads not so much.

Please do black rims.

Heads are gonna get some proper work done before it's finished, do not worry.

they're the exact same size as the MkX ones

the gorgets are just like that

Practicing some new stuff, trying for Salamanders.

looks more sons of medusa/invaders at the moment

working some Death Guard. I converted the Big guy into Typhus, so this guy got the fancy standard instead.

looking good, whatever that blue stuff that's leaving out of him is I think it's looking a bit flat and maybe glossing it would help

Agreed, it looks really smooth but the green is too light for Salamanders. Absolutely spot on for Sons of Medusa though

Plus I finished my Palgue Drone.

the Nurgles Rot paint is still wet so it's a bit uneven.

I'm going to darken it up with washes, if it doesn't work out ill figure something for the rest of the set.
I went super beight because i didn't wamt to end iu with everything looking muddy.

r8 my sorcerer

THICC paints

Never worked with resin models before and just got some orcs from a kickstarter thing i backed awhile ago. I'm wondering, do i need to wash the models in water before i spray them? They don't feel greasy or like they have any kind of coating on them but i think i recall hearing that your supposed to clean resin models before beginning to paint them?

Some Raven Guard chadmarines with plasma guns. Still got to finish the tactical chads.

Crap reposted the unsized one

'STRALIA
They look pretty cool, I think they need something to break the black up a bit, it's really really plain at the moment

Yes, also be sure to wear a mask if you are filing, resin dust is particularly nasty stuff.

Really nice, the colour works well on them. Distinctive without being gaudy

zandri, sepia wash, ushabti, screaming skull

Vallejo make a wash/ink called "smoke" that is a dark strong brown, good for darker bone if you thin it down. Smells awful though

Also, good for wood, leather and dirt.

Thank you, i will do *(appreciate that warning for sure!) i already cleaned off some flash with just my modeling blade not realizing the materials were so dangerous to breathe in. Do you happen to know if plastic glue will work on these parts or is super glue the name of the game here? I imagine it depends on the material of the resin or i dont know if resin is universally the same?

Ty for your help.

For skills I wash white with agrax and watered down blue then sepia and watered down red. Gives a nice mixed base colour that I think is better to build on than standard brown. Then I highlight with whatever bone colour I have up to Vallejo ivory or alternatively with Vallejo DE Green or death world forest up to bone and ivory. Sorry for the shitty repurposed pics.

Messing around with washes on my plague marines. Pretty happy with this this shade. Washes also lets the metallic undercoat still shine through.

CA glue should work fine. Suggest drilling and pinning stuff in place too. Resin is brittle and has a habit of snapping if you're clumsy.

>Metallic marines
Stop.
>Metallic Plague Marines
We're doomed.

Is it true that Duncan's birthday is tomorrow?

Get thee behind me plebeian taste

So I hear you are absolutely supposed to prime Forge World models with actual primer, but the Forge World pamphlet recommends to use Chaos Black as a primer. I'm confused here

that's a nice set of colors, god damm!
how'd you make that armor? just a simple gray, then wash-thing?

Looks like a mix of Vallejo paints. 70.885 to 70.971 maybe?

Could any of you kind anons tell me how to get this champagne colored Metal trim for a caphracti terminator?

Liberator gold, rather than retributor gold.

If it's true, we should make him a card.

Terminator librarian with force sword and storm shield.

Maybe the most useful HQ I've wasted money on so far.

And I couldnt resist Plague Marines.

I've always liked chaos so I might do a chaos army. No conversions for this one though.

It's more hassle than it's worth I think, and a part of the reason I'm struggling to motivate myself to keep painting them. Right guy is armour before washes. Base is Vallejo pale blue 71.008 with a bit of sick green 72.729. Then sponge and brush on some rust, highlight everything up to near white. Matte varnish it. Then I use mig dark wash and AK interactive light rust wash in a few layers for the grime. I'm pleased with how they look but I think I need to do a big batch to make it worthwhile.

Here is my Nurgle Sorcerer I'm working on.

When I play 6th edition, I use him as a Sorcerer, when I play AoS I use him as a Lord of Chaos.

I like keeping him more simple and subtle than the over-the-top stuff you see coming out of GW these days.

That looks gorgeous

He's a Tabletop 7, Display case 4

Phenomenal work.

I wanna paint my Eldar as Saim-Hann
Corax White Spray or Mechanicus Standard Grey Spray for undercoat?

I get similar gold by using P3 Blighted gold and then adding runefang steel, give it a really light green glaze afterwards.

It definitely needs edge highlights. For both the blue and orange.

I have a non uniform Primaris army in the works but was looking for a way to bind them all together. I like Deathwatch's silver arm idea but don't want to steal it outright. I had then thought of a metallic red arm. Any good metallic red paints or a nice recipe to work around to one? I know some people use highlighted metallics + glazes to make Alpha Legion armor; could you do the same with Bloodletter glaze?

ill take it

I would like to know as well

that's really cool!
if you don't mind me asking, how would you make a yellow-ish dirty/worn armor for nurgle? I've been looking for something to tie into my Daemons of nurgle army, which is mostly yellow. My first thought was to go for grey armor with yellow cloth, but I was also thinking yellow armor with a darker cloth and rim color, such as dark grey or black.
problem is, doing off-yellow/worn yellow armor is very new to me.

Your pic just implied that he's playing masterrace.
Well played.

Still got some touching up and highlighting.

Should I go for grass or snow on the base?

I am new to this game. What is the difference between spray paint and primer?

Does good old Rustoleum work?

heavy drybrushing is not a good look

I like it

:(

It looks better in person swear on me mum user.

>Stormcucks
>master race

I had nice success with tamiya clear red over golds. Balthazar gold makes a deep metallic red, like a world bearers red. Using a bright bronze makes a really nice candy apple red.

Reposting my mek gun. Think I'm gonna try to brighten/hilight the non Tau bits, but leave the Tau paint job dingy and beat-up.

What, if anything, do you guys put your miniatures on while painting?

I've been using bluetac+wine corks but the damn wine corks are too narrow and fall over too often, annoying the shit out of me.

I base my minis before priming. So I put them on bases.
Unless you have something really heavy or trying for a golden demon I'm quick enough that I don't worry about handling them.

If I got separate bits I pin them on a bit of wire and put them into my hand drill and use that as handle.
You could also put those things into a winecork or something like that. That's something I do sometimes too.

...you sure did waste your money cause you didn't even clean off the spruce points....let alone the mold lines.

That belongs in the trash

I ended up with two of these things, somehow. They're great.

some people don't clean off mold lines until they've assembled the mini, it's not like it's painted or anything.

These are a must-have, I have one with a little tray and a light on the magnifying glass and it's so useful for almost every step.

That just seems like a good way slip and mess up other bits, and make getting at certain bits more difficult, though?

What are these things called?

snippity snip battlebots. they use their claws and have a magnifying glass for a sun-based heat ray.

grippy grabby snippy snappies

sounds like xenotech to me, s m h f a m

I think they're called a Helping Hand.

"Helping hands". Personally, I think mine might be defective, as it smashes the shit out of anything I put in the clips, but maybe it's supposed to be that strong.

Bump