WIP General

>Citadel Painting Guides:
mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here
>Figure painter magazine issues 1-36
mega.nz/#F!0AIGDAxL!xOT6MK3oiGpBB1pQaNy5lg
>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart
>Painting Videos only
mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA
>DIY Lightbox
youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw
>DIY Spraybooth
starshipmodeler.com/tech/pa_booth.htm
>DIY Wet Palette
youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM
>How to Moldlines
youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU
>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/
>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg
>Stripping Paint (yes, the ellipses are part of the URL!)
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...
>Priming With Acrylic Gesso
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Priming_With_Acrylic_Gesso
>Green Stuff Casting
fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2011/11/molding-and-casting-shoulderpads.html
masteroftheforge.com/2012/05/21/rubber-molds-green-stuff/
masteroftheforge.com/2012/07/17/green-stuff-cast-shoulder-pad/
>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf
>WIP's own 10-point painting scale:
pastebin.com/sxXFfws3

Other urls found in this thread:

youtu.be/GeDwTY7C9xs
wh40k.lexicanum.com/wiki/Chengrel
twitter.com/SFWRedditImages

finished my nurgle lord today
what are you working an?

Looks good man, just finished up my squad today. Sry for the shitty camera though.

...

i like the slimy green flesh on the blight launcher guy is that just nurgles rot or some other paints?

Working on this abomination I just can't quite seem to get it to not look like ass

Thank you! and the slimy green flesh is a way too thick coat of nurgles rot mixed with flash gitz yellow in a 3:1 ratio.

It was ment to be just a little bit on the nuzzle but I just rolled with it since it's the test model.

was ment for you accidentally tagged my own post...

Just started working on my first Primaris Charcharodons, but honestly, with how the sculpts are (don't allow much tweaking), how they perform on the table AND the fact that, to me, they're the chapter which is the least likely to have Primaris, I'll probably stick to normal marines after that squad.

well i like it and will try it myself i could use some skin variety as i have more about two dozen models still to paint

Haha no problem and good luck with painting all them boiis.

Dwarf Gunmaster WIP, added fur collar and targeting lens on his helm

Holy SHIT this looks good user. i love the fly theme conversion and the fleshy exhaust pipes dripping slime are awesome. 10/10 from me

thank you
the model is pretty easy to replicate
all parts come from the new plague marine box and i just had to cut a bit at the torso to reposition the arms the slime is just nurgles rot on white primer

Just roughed out the chapter symbols for my sternguard squad.
Utterly stumped as to what to paint on the sergeant's back banner though.

...

this guy came out right

His base didn't :(

and my attempt to write Don't Panic on the cover of his book

I did a trio of Chaos Warriors

Why is modern chaos aesthetic so shit? Vikings were so much better

that gets covered up by the basing anyway

...

>Utterly stumped as to what to paint on the sergeant's back banner though.
Chapter logo with squad number on it maybe?
If you want something more fancy for the veterans maybe something along the lines of Dark Angels or Grey Knight iconography where they slay demons?

Or if you have a regular opponent something related to your arch nemesis on the table.

Honestly, I don't fucking care that they're sideways at this point.

Good shout desu. Got a game vs DG on Saturday where they'll be fielded for the first time. I'll see if they do something notable.
All else fails I can indeed paint the chapter logo again. But that is a bit boring.

Crop, resize and focus that shit. It's not even hard to do.

Oh. Lol, I thought that was the basing. Good to know you're gonna do that.

Did you sculpt the fly bits yourself? If so, they look great. Otherwise, where can I get those parts, primarily the helmet?

all parts are from the plague marine box that came out recently
the only "conversion" on the model is that i built him from 5 different plague marines from the box as the new marines are almost monopose

I want to buy some new brushes, I hear that Winsor and Newton series 7 are good. any other recomendations? I've been using a combination of old gw and army painter brushes but they are not so good now and the tips are going shit.

Winsor and Newton s7 are the shit and I still use mine after owning them for over 2 years now.
Buy some of the Masters brush cleaner and preserver if you don't have some, you'll want to take care of them cause they are pricey.
I recommend a size 2 and a size 0 if you don't buy any others.

also i have a set of Wamp brushes I got from their kickstarter a few years ago, the Wamp Fine Detail brush can (and is) used for absolutely everything by me and is well worth the cost.

Are you painting them with porridge?

was thinking of getting size 0, 00 and 1. Would you recommend getting a size 2 then?

Extra thick one indeed. I fucked the priming.

Size 2 is basecoat-size. Size 0 is highlight size, size 00 is fine highlight size. Not as crucial to get the size 2 if you have other brushes for applying flat colour.

At least get the miniature in focus before you post.

WIP Putrifier.

I raised the wings up so they're more noticeable and butterfly-like.

I use a size 2 for 90% of the miniature. As long as the point is sharp you can even do fine details with it. You really only need 00 for putting in the dots on gems and eyes.

Nice! The orange pus coming out of his armour is pretty graphic. Love any DG mini that makes me squirm so :)

Might help some people to care about their brush:

youtu.be/GeDwTY7C9xs

Turn your phone you fucking Facebook spawn

...

Coming up with lannister inspired empire army. What do you guys think about the scheme? Trying to break apart the red with white but considering having white only on greatswords.

that looks awesome
i think the white is a good idea so that your troops look like proper landsknechts

bretty good but you should not have wrştten lannister on the flag.
Taking references from other settings is okay, not outright stealing ideas.

That's a cool-looking head on your standard bearer. Is it from a Free People's/Empire militia kit? I'm gonna need the sauce on that.

I had this $3 Reaper Bones giant worm laying around so I decided to paint it for the random encounters table for Frostgrave.

I didn't even bother to look for mold lines because this isn't something I care about, but was pleasantly surprised when the only noticeable one is the one on the mouth.

Just gotta wait for the wash to dry then do a quick highlight, trying to keep total actual work time on him under 45 minutes.

Very nice!

I can't paint second hand models. I need to buy the set, build it and then I can do a 20+ hour painting marathon. But if the models are not new I have no motivation to even look at them. Is this a thing?

more infinity

That's called autism don't worry we all have it here

Not bad at all! However, I would argue for a darker red and some black here and there, along with the burnished gold.

Trueborn kitbash is done, how do they Look?

Scary.

...

Wanting to apply sand to a large gaming table, is something like pic related my best bet? I don't have my supplies yet so I'm open to suggestions. Thanks dudes.

Looking good, thanks for showing some love to your bases.
Good stuff anons

Also found out my printer makes a great background.
Last marking on raider is done, gonna start adding them to my venoms. Gonna have to neaten it up a bit I think
I'm in tears

Horus

Must admit I laughed.

Best bet is just dumping some wood glue into a tub, watering it down a bit and then using a large paint brush.

Once that stage is dry you spray it all with a can of polyurethane gloss varnish. You can then prime and paint it.

This is how I've done several large gaming tables and with these steps it takes some serious abuse to start breaking your texture off.

Just use pva lad, and then use a spray bottle with watered down pva to seal it afterwards, once it dries it’s pretty strong. Make sure your boards are braced on the back so they don’t warp though.

Nice. Are you following the Painting Buddha tutorial by any chance?

great, thank you guys.

Nah, im just emulating a picture of one someone else did

Test model for Sons of the Phoenix

I bought a titan-esque model from at a swamp meet, and the guy made some battle damage to it. Is their a way to clean up the arm without causing more damage or coating it in an inch of greenstuff?

Love the fly helmet, bro. One of the local DG players gave me one of his spare's since he doesnt like how they look. I was thinking of cutting off the tongue, adding some antennae and pincers and greenstuffing the battledamage away and then using it as the helmet for my Mantis Warriors Captain.
Do you think that would work/look good?

Pic related, because the file didn't go through.

Me rikely rong time!

Coolio. Got a name and some fluff for him? I'd love to hear it.

>Why is modern chaos aesthetic so shit?
They're not. In fact they're spot on kurgan WoC.
>Vikings were so much better
Have there ever been norscan WoC?

Hey WIP, I’m finally done procrastinating and have gather all the paints and tools I think I need to start actually painting my dudes.

Any tips besides thin ma paints?

I’ve been scouring tutorials and this thread for a while but I still feel like I’m going to fuck this up.

Kewl.

Watch Duncan's videos, even if it's not ones specific to what you're painting. They help out a ton.

Do some test painting on stuff you don't care about to get a feel for the paints and your color scheme.

it's supposed to have shoulder pads that would cover most of that, i think it's glue damage, not battle damage, looks like it's missing one of the back exhaust things too and no clue why there's a hole on the top plate... oh the model is from dreamforge by the way, they might be able to hook you up with a deal to get the missing pieces if they are in fact missing

Nurgle palanquin made from an old, beaten up corpse cart I got for free from a friend. Still need to clean up some glue splotches and such leftover from the previous owner. Planning on converting my own Lord from Plague Marines to ride it. Posted this in /40kg/ earlier, but I'll share it again now that /wip/ is back up.

>Any tips besides thin ma paints?

Pay attention to how much paint you're loading on to your brush at each go. Don't sop up too much, or it really won't matter how well you've thinned it. It will still look like ass when applied to your model.

Look at how your models are going to fit together in the final stages. If there are parts that will obscure other parts during painting, build and paint in sub-assemblies. You don't have to go full autist like I do (pic related) - but even something as simple as painting the head separately and gluing it on later can make quite a bit of difference.

You're going to spill your Agrax Earthshade. Don't let it ruin your day. It happens to all of us.

Don't touch your models while you paint them if you can help it. Use blue tack to attach them to some other worthless object, and hold on to that object while you paint. Old dried up paint pots are frequently cited as a good example, but I prefer big flat vitamin jar lids that don't tip over easily when I set the model down in between paint applications.

Plastic cement only works on plastic models. For resin or metal models, you need cyanoacrylate ("super") glue. You might also need to pin heavy parts on metal models and to fill gaps with green stuff if you can't get the bitz to fit together exactly right.

Take care of your brushes. Condition the good ones after each session with Masters brush cleaner and preserver. Don't let the paint get all the way up into the ferrule, or you'll more than likely never get that brush completely clean ever again. If you're not using dropper bottles, use your shitty brushes to transfer paint from the pot to the palette and to mix paints. Your good brushes are meant for getting paint on models, and *maybe* occasionally getting a little bit more water in there.

He's Siegfried Spiderbane
he gut cursed by nurgle to look like a fly because he laughed abaout some nurgle plague drones because they were eaten by spiders on a planet he tried to conquer

i think that could look really good
the only real battle damage the helm has is next to the right eye where the head of the lord can be seen
cutting the tongue should be easy
good luck with your idea i love it

in addition my whole vectorum consists solely of plague marines recruited from the plague planet, so they aren't veterans of the horus heresy but they are eager to prove themselves
and my lord and demon prince are brothers who are from the first successful recruitment of new plague marines from the populace of the plague planet so while no old dogs they are still thousands of years old
i hope their story is not too mary sueish but i need some justification why i have a demon prince who didn't go through the horus heresy and i like the idea of two brothers leading my army as i have an older brother who brught me into the hobby 15 years ago

Thanks Anons. I tried watching some of Duncan’s vids regarding black armour as that’s what a bulk of my marines scheme is (raven Guard successors). I just found that it involved more of the citadel paints than a lot of technical stuff.

I’m using Vallejo Model Colour and trying to compare to some of the citadel paints I started on these guys probably over a decade ago. I only had a dread finished so I’m probably just going to start over but leave the chaos black primer as is, that being said does anyone know how close Vallejo black is to what is now I guess called Abaddon Back? And any god sources for spray primer that would match that colour without getting fucked paying gw prices?

I’ve sewered myslef a bit as a lot of my older stuff I assembled and played as grey tide or primed black. I know it’s gonna make some things a lot harder than they should be but I’m just looking to get a solid base of colours down and hopefully get good enough to tackle harder/harder to reach stuff.

They need necks.

Just watch some vids where Duncan does basecoating, washing, edge highlighting etc to get the technique you should be using
Then swap in your colours for what he's using

Can anyone recommend a good primer that isn't quite as pricy as Chaos Black? Need to resupply and I hear I can get better than GW.
Also probably going to buy pic related and cyborg them into Admech Genetor Kataphrons. If the wrappings will be green and the skin pale grey with red wash, any idea what to do with the fur?

I think the bronze came out pretty good on this. Can /wip/ recommend me a matte varnish that both has an actual matte finish and won't rub off when applied over Pledge?
The Vallejo matte varnish is super flat but rubs off, the Liquitex matte varnish doesn't rub off but looks like pic related. It doesn't look that bad on this particular model but on things with clothes it kind of looks weird.

I can definitely dig this part. I like the plague planet-recruits trying to prove themselves. It's an interested rationale for what they do.

That looks hella' interesting. Could you give us a frontal picture?

it's part trying to prove themselves and part arrogance
at least the prince and the lord are arrogant and think the plague planet recruits are the toughtest of the DG so they started the vectorum (and the arrogance bit my lord in the ass the moment he got cursed which i also use to explain his missing resilient roll)
the others are the eager guys trying to prove they are worth something as i imagine they will constantly be reminded by other DG that they didn't fight on terra during the heresy

sure

It's from the Dark Souls game that I bought for the minis

>the others are the eager guys trying to prove they are worth something as i imagine they will constantly be reminded by other DG that they didn't fight on terra during the heresy

As someone not that knowledgable in 40K fluff, is this actually something that happens? Are non-heresy fighters percieved as second class?

it's something that happens in real life
the new recruits in the us army during ww2 were regarded as second class by the veterans after the ardennes
and as the DG readily recriuts from the plague planet but still refuses to die a lot most will still be veterans from the heresy and in the flight of the eisenstein novel the DG are happily talking down to garro because he isn't from barbarus so i think they will continue their behaviour on the plague planet

Nice! Madly jealous
I just finished most details on the first three models of my second squad.
Just gotta get them seals, skulls, shade and highlight. Gotta get a real camera too
C&C appriciated

Chapter symbols look great!

tfw used size 4 for everything here

Good idea with the wings, looks Mardi Gras or something ravey
>I wonder what's in those vials

That's better user
Boots look like mud tho

Nice, looks lovely

Nice base

I'm okay with this. Maybe have some blood follow the pole down?

Looking good

Nice! Where'd you get the helmet?

Learn from your mistakes and keep going, don't get stuck on petty detail

Where'd you get that Belfry Gargoyle? After playing 400+ hours wearing only the Gargoyle Helm, I want one

Looks like it would make one heck of a DP.

Finished some IG veterans.

Neat.

I wasn't aware that there were any significant percentage of the original traitors left. As such I though that they were had a more revered last blood-vibe going for them.

Forgot pic

Indeed.
wh40k.lexicanum.com/wiki/Chengrel

Renegades marines don't have the prestige of having fought on Terra, or even during the Great Crusade, by the side of legends. For some, fighting in front of the Eternity Gate was merely a few years ago because of how the Warp works.

Raptors?

This is about my 5th thin coat of yriel yellow over 2 thin coats of averland sunset (and I have been thinning it well with water) WHY ISNT IT WORKING GOD WHY?