Not a single thread about pfw

there were a few pieces I liked but was a little disappointed by the collection. What did you like about it

Waiting for the women's Undercover show desu. Last season's was top notch.

bump

take my cash nikka

Silhouette on these tops is magic

This was fantastic

Trouble is I can never justify buying any because it's usually a look that can be replicated by buying inexpensive garments a few sizes big

lemaire was so fucking boring, and they use the ugliest colour schemes. light pastel dirt greeny blue shit. dull designer

Any full review on the week ?
I heard Valentino was pretty shitty

care to explain why you think that?

lemaire always seems like one of the most wearable designers to me, especially if you're over 30

I like that pink haired model and appriciate the use of giant prints and arabic. Its a pretty language.

i'll start by saying i'm only not a fan of ss18

compare ss17 to ss18:
youtube.com/watch?v=H-78ZxkMCfs
youtube.com/watch?v=rdS59HZfspM

the first thing i noticed is the colours of ss18. they are using light grey, these sortof seaweed greens and blues and horrible pastal colours.
> tuxbell.com/index.php/Colour_Theory

i mean compare these two shirt patterns. there has been a massive decline in quality

> lemaire.fr/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/Lemaire_008.jpg

> lemaire.fr/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/Lemaire_Paris_SS17_Mens_16.jpg

wait i'll try explain it better it's tricky to do

here we go lol

this x100

1/2
funny, most people I in who are into lemaire loved this season
I for one greatly prefer it to ss17 and find it much more cohesive with his overall aesthetic whereas ss17 seemed a bit out of place for a lemaire collection
The colours for one are mostly very well done apart from a couple looks imo, and follows on from his more prominent use if colour in fw17, the bright red I'm not a fan of personally, but it's definitely not out of place with those grey trousers, could just use a slight reduction in visual area to minimise it's intensity (although this was supposedly his intention if you'd read the show notes)
the subtle blue hue of the grey shirt in look 1 lends itself to very nice monochrome scheme with the navy trousers
even the colouring in look 8 with the bomber pattern you (and even in for that matter) don't like, is still paired well, the pinky-red pastel colour lends itself to a nice analogous pairing with the being shirt, this is also done well in no. 29
look 2 is also very well done, washing out the green shirt to match hue with the grey
it's not perfect however, not really a fan of the colour in 7, 11 and 12, I see nothing wrong with anything else in terms of colour though
in terms of patterns (odd thing to pick out but anyway) yes I'm not fan of the one you linked, but the others in the collection are lovely imo, esp the camo one, lemaire has always been hit and miss with the patterns anyway, even in ss17 (look 34 is just plain odd, mainly due to the colour and the weird grouping of like 7 stipes then large gaps split by only one)
what I'm seeing an improvent in this season are the textures and silhouettes
last spring season was loaded with very crimply nylons and cottons that crinkled very easily and didn't drape well at all combined with lots of elastic, this in turn resulted in very cheap looking clothes that drape on the body very unpleasantly imo and really didn't give that cleanness you come to expect with lemaire

Yeah Lemaire is shit, it's the plainest clothes ever, no one will notice I wear eur 1500 dads harrington, what's the point then??? He even doesn't place logos on his shit! I'm not paying $$$ for the dumb shirt which is not recognizable in any way, "designer" is meant to be recognizable, come on dude just place some sicc lettering on your shit so the people can appreciate your clothes, its 2017 ffs

kek

2/2
desu he's also fallen into the same trap this collection too with the excessive use of the viscose and leather imo, couple instances of it not meshing well with the rest of the outfit would be no. 12, 14, 20, 21, 23, 27 & 33
however I think this collection greatly improved in terms of the variety of texture used vs. ss17, lovely texture on the shirt in no. 3, gorgeous woven marcels, lovely drapey wool trousers (6, 12 etc), suede jackets etc etc
silhouettes greatly improved too, and much more interesting vs ss17 contrary to what you argue, my main gripe with ss17 was the ugly ass boxy blazer and zipped jacket ala look 11 & 12 seemed like he was trying to 80s it up with everyone else jumping on the demna meme, but lemaire doesn't work in the same way as those brands really
compare to the DB jacket in 23, lovely drape and the very low button placement is heaven and accentuates the shawl collar very well (and cohesive with his extremely low pockets he's known for)
thank god the long shirts are gone too with that horrible front zip up thing, which is used much better in the shirt on look 7
overall just much more flattering variety of cuts vs ss17, especially when not accentuated by crimply flimsy looking fabrics
also the little chart image thing you got is stupid
nothing wrong with the change in colour palette
the contrast squares thing doesn't have any relation to the outfits posted with them
and the other two parts are just your opinion really, I quite like both that colour pairing and the pattern
and your points don't really have anything to do with your original argument that the collection is boring

simultaneous contrast affects clothing. he has chosen to include many items that are light grey. as a result it changes the perception of other colours. i don't know if this was intentional (probably was), but as a result it makes the colours of the other items dull, and pastel-like in my opinion. i was showing how the undershirt in both pictures is perceived differently by the black v grey topshirt. i agree the patterns argument is completely subjective.

you're right theres nothing wrong with a change in colour palette, but i prefer ss17.

i concede on the rest. haha :)

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best thread on this board rn :' )

obvs

Any sets where models aren't feeble fuccbois?

Great! You just proved yourself to be /contrarian/

They still get some puss though

bumping so I can read when I get home tonight

yeah I know you're talking about the simultaneous contrast, the way your chart is arranged doesn't relate to the colour schemes used in the runway outfits tho, infact simultaneous contrast has more to do with relation of the tone of the colour at it's maximum vibrancy to the other colours in the palette not just a simple light vs dark comparison (ie what shade/tint does a colour achieve it's maximum purity, lighter for colours like yellow & green, darker for colours like blue and purple, and then matching these colours with other light/dark colours to draw out this vibrancy (a yellow paired with white will appear more intense than paired with black, opposite for a blue or red))
knowing this it's also important to consider christophes intentions in using the grey with that pastel green, it could have very well been in an attempt to drown it out, also hence the reduced volume this stand out colour takes in the outfit (under the jacket) but obviously it's not possible to tell

not really

what mostly irritated me was that he was lauded as the second coming of margelia when he's obviously not on that level. also things like the basic dhl tee and last season's vetements show are definitely bad taste.

but as the fashion press is more lukewarm about demna and there's noise around his work, there's more space to judge the clothes / concepts for what they are without feeling like it's being forced down my throat.

also to me this dhl jacket conveys the same idea as the dhl shirt while actually being a pretty cool garment. the shipping label branding is quite clever

>DHL shirt is bad taste
>DHL jacket is actually pretty cool garment
nikka do you realise how retarded you're coming off as right now?

Yohji killed it.
Valentino killed it.
Undercover killed it.
Sankuanz killed it.
Paul Smith killed it.

Rynshu wins the week imo.

does anyone know the pink haired model's name?

By bad taste I wasn't so much referring to the look of the t-shirt in a vacuum, but rather the idea that a literal replica of a 10 pound shirt was being sold for 200

The dhl t-shirt was just a dhl t-shirt. the fit wasn't anything interesting or original. The idea was humorous but there wasn't anything beyond that. It just made the customer look retarded, and making money off of your customer's stupidity is quite a cynical approach to commerce. This is what I mean by bad taste.

This jacket is actually in line with the Vetements design language and (I think) pretty decent looking from a streetwear perspective. It has the same humorous concept as the t-shirt but is also a unique product on top of that. I never said it's my favorite jacket of the season but it's more of what I'd want from this project than just a t-shirt.

Of course a dhl jacket is still bad taste from a traditional perspective, but so is 90% of what comes down the runway these days.

>Paul Smith killed it.
This this. The tops were so fantastic. I love this michele maximalism wave that lots of brands are riding now but I felt this show did it in a still chic and timeless way. Hoping this knit will be produced in mens or at least larger sizes (and make it to sales :^)

forgot pic

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ah ok my bad!

I like the short sleeves, though this is obviously a good backup

The prints were cool, wearable and edgy. I don't feel the same about Brainwashed Generation, looks like something middle school me would think is cool.
Spiritual Noise really kills it with the skinny trousers and the railroad worker outfits imo.

Very punk but perfectly wearable in public without looking like a tool.