/Dark Fashion General/

/Dark Fashion General/

These went over fairly well the last few times.

Some Brands:
>Ann Demeulemeester
>A1923
>Boris Bidjan Saberi
>Carol Christian Poell
>Carpe Diem
>Deepti
>Guidi
>Individual Sentiments
>Isabel Benenato
>Label Under Construction
>Layer-0
>ma+
>Rick Owens
>The Viridi-Anne
>Takahiromiyashita The Soloist
>Ziggy Chen

Other urls found in this thread:

vimeo.com/29542519
youtube.com/watch?v=SJa80bzhENs
instagram.com/jameskearnslondon/
twitter.com/NSFWRedditImage

thoughts on BBS11
Quality?
Adherence to mainline vision?
Not the stuff with massive branding, obviously but there are some interesting pieces in there.
Shame a lot of it looks like antifa cosplay these days

Can't speak to the quality or anything, haven't had too much exposure to BBS11 or the mainline stuff. Just aware that his stuff is very big in this sphere

Dogshit quality
hackneyed designs

don't waste your time/cash on it.

that's dope af

I recently went back through my CCP folder,

It's overwhelming

...

Holy shit

There is only one holy grail.

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it's undoubtedly a beautiful jacket

good thing i hate leather jackets for myself

however i'd probably dosh out on this

The thing about leather is that it is totally personal.

Any given human looks awful in every leather jacket that exists. Except for one.

The trick is to find it.

The thing about anything is that it's totally personal.

What the fuck is that manifesto?
that's some stupid shit.

I don't like leather because I find it uncomfortable to wear

maybe if i find comfortable leather then i'll care about how it looks.

vimeo.com/29542519

youtube.com/watch?v=SJa80bzhENs

also has links to videos of other collections

Well shit.
Maybe you're just better than me.
Some people are.

What specific elements of comfort are you looking for from leather? Freedom of movement? Breathability?

carol actually doesnt an excellent job accommodating for range of motion in his jackets,

so if i was looking for flexibility or fluid movements i'd hit carols stuff

it's really a breathability issue- although he has perforated leathers it's more to do with the faact that I will sweat profusely no matter what
and the leather would probably get salt damaged very fast... and also be extremely uncomfortable when damp.

doesn't stop me from fetishising his jackets, just wouldn't buy one for myself.

who knows, maybe one day.

Where can I actually try this stuff on? Whenever I buy something online it winds up being bigger than I imagined.

very select retail stores in countries which have markets that can afford dropping $5000 on a leather jacket.

extremely hard to encounter.
most of CCP's stuff for example is discontinued, very small limited runs.

big world, small #.
if you're adamant you'll encounter it eventually

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Any dark fashion sneakers inspo?
Naturally there is a ton of Geobasket/Ramones inspo floating around so it would be nice if we could get some non-rick sneaker inspo
a1923, ma+, BBS. stuff in that vein

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always found sneakers when ~drk fashund~ just look like floppy drained ass

carol has some pretty rad- almost impossible to find

ccp
I bought a few but I've struggled pairing them. Skinny dark jeans and flowing tops are the best I've come up with

to clarify. I've not "bought a few" CCPs. I have a pair of BBS bambas and a pair of a1923 sneakers and I'm struggling to style them.

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TvA had some nice sneakers for ss16
clean and pretty versatile

Way back when I got pretty close to slamming on BBS Bambas,

The following year i had a opportunity to look at a lot of BBS's stock first hand and holy shit
it sucked ass both how they felt and how poorly put together they were

i'd say throw the bbs onto grailed or s/t and perservere w the a1923...

although i detest both those brands

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least u got here fren

bambas are comfy af
I have and they remind me a lot of my Geos but I prefer the quality on the bambas.
I'll say they don't have the raw and gritty feel a lot of dark fashion has and lean more to the clean industrial feel you get from rick sneakers.
So they remind me of rick and I style them the way I would rick but I'm always open to ideas.
The a1923s were pretty uncomfortable at first but we seem to finally be reaching an understanding of sorts.

what's the complaint against a1923? they seem to be pretty close to CCP in style and quality but maybe I'm missing nuance

I love these Devoa sneakers from aw15

better more affordable alternatives

also, and i've forgotten his name, but heard bad things about the guy that runs a1923
- seems like a dick

GTFO MONG

fite me frank u geezr

i'll sodomise ur whole xtdndd family

watch urslf whity

>also, and i've forgotten his name, but heard bad things about the guy that runs a1923
That'd be Simone. He nominally designed shoes for Carpe Diem but his involvement with the label is somewhat disputed. A lot of his designs are pretty obvious ripoffs of others. His signature sneakers, for instance, are just a rework of an earlier CCP sneaker. A lot of his boots are basically just CD rehashes.

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the ma+ sneakers are amazing. have any pix of these in a fit?
the white and black colorways are good too

Never seen a fit pic with these but I'm interested as well.

closest I could find. vertice london have a good selection

the undisclosed consensus is that's a myth.

he was never a part of the carpe diem team.

yup, i think you've summed it up there pretty well.

his forays into clothing have also been laughable, moreso infact.

among the reasons why i don't really think he's worth discussing.

Just recently bought Ann D hi tops with 2 buckles, love em
Really wanted to buy these but they sold out everywhere before I could buy a pair, new French brand called Both Paris, doing interesting things with rubber coating reminds me of CCP, BBS and O.X.S. Rubbersoul and and the they use horse leather for the sneakers. Right now just trying to scavenge second hand sites to see if pair in black and in my size pops up.

Wow that was really inaccurate and retarded

Devoa and Viridi-Anne both have had really cool sneakers in the past

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Why are drop crotch trousers so popular in this aesthetic?

Uma Wang and Isabel Benenato are killing it.
Also like Ria Dunn's Lost&Found. Good shit.
But wearing a full 'dark-fashion' outfit is boring and overplayed as fuck. I just get knitwear, pants, coats and boots from these brands. Tho, CCP and Ann D has some cool 17th century bohemian poet shirts that are pretty sweet.

why is Julius not on this list

are you actually supposed to wear those ccp drip shoes? Doesn't it damage the drips on the sole immediately?

the drips at the bottom are basically just something that happens when you dip sneakers in plastic and hang them to dry
the drips at the bottom aren't supposed to and won't just stay there like they are in product pics

I'm super into the idea of pulling pieces from this kind of aesthetic into a sort of more elegant sphere. These pieces almost always have the most amazing texture to them, i''d love to come together with some sort of dark and elegant punk vibe

Wasn't an extensive list, just trying to remember most of what was listed in the last thread; missed that one.

Yes, you wear them.

The drips wear off eventually but you CAN send them back to CCP and have them re-dip them.

Someone define dark fashion for me? To me it looks drape, gothic, often dark

I don't think that's a stretch at all. Most of these designers produce several suits/jackets every season. Rick's formal wear is some of the nicest and Ann has, of course, always had a dandyish bent. Those two both have a heavy focus on texture.

That's pretty much it. Focus is on avant-garde patterns, unusual silhouettes, and unique materials. As you said, the color palettes are often dark.

Pretty much this, people will focus on different aspects of it depending on their personal taste and style, some people are really comfortable and interested in creating unique sillouhettes, others are into the aesthetic the materials and construction create, and then tons of bleed over between the two

aren't they a bitch to walk in?

two numbers to high, son

>tfw too poor for Anne the Mulemaster

it's worth it
just copd short sleeve version of this
still want the paint stripe tee from her

how is their quality doing given that Anne left a few years ago? The materials are probably fine but what of the designs?
Cedric Jacquemyn has superseded Anne's label for me, after her departure, though I don't think he does sneakers which would be a shame if true.

Well Meunier has been doing the menswear designs since 2010 for the label anyway so that part is hardly affected
I felt like the latest shows were bit of a departure from the usual Ann D stuff though but only time will tell
The absolute best season of the brand are in the past but it's still going strong, I wouldn't say there is a huge drop in quality or anything

I want to buy some a1923 boots, what can you tell me about them? they are horse leather, will they be comfortable? will they last a long while?

I'm struggling, I really love Dark Fashion, Avant-Garde, you name it, but the full look head to toe, like SZ-core, is way too ridiculous for me.

For the most of these looks, I think they just look better on older people. Like, in Eclaireur Sévigné I was the only 20 years old, all of the other customers were above 35.

So if I want to look good while wearing some of these pieces while being a 20-yo ( and looking younger ) I need to find a way of wearing them in a more casual way. But more casual often means more repetitive and that's pissing me off

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I mix my shit with uniqlo and vans
now granted I mostly buy yohji and a1923 but I get where you're coming from

Yeah Ill mix with some Uniqlo X Lemaire. I also have trouble since I really like /avantgarde/ but I'm also attrayed by SLP ( these silhouettes damn ) and anything Jap from hiking wear to couture.

But I guess liking all of these things will lead tout having my own consistent but diverse style. Because I think it would be dumb to rock full SLP core and the next day some artisanal treasures.

Btw its a good question for everyone : Do you have to be consistent in the style you dress ?

depends on who and what you're wearing but I think a lot of this stuff can be mixed with more casual pieces. The problem is just that the pieces oftentimes lose their uniqueness when styled in a boring way. That's just my opinion of course, but why buy a really interesting piece if you're just gonna wear it with vans? Seems like you're only half committing. If you think the look doesn't work on you then maybe just appreciate without wearing for now.

I think it definitely helps to be consistent. You can dress all over the place but it'll make you seem lost, like you don't know yourself. I think you're better off picking a look that suits you and going with it. It's certainly possible to incorporate elements from other spheres into your outfits and that is indeed what makes them unique but that's different from wearing full slp one day and full rick the next.

wear what you like mang, there is no reason to identify so hard with 'dark fashion' you can't wear other things you like
I wear ann d, thrift shit and jap americana in same fit, I like it that's only thing that matters really

I have the same problem you do. My wardrobe is evenly split between Yohji, Craig Green, CDGH+ and a1923 on one side and Acronym, Arcteryx Veilance, Wtaps and Y3 on the other, with uniqlo bridging the divide a bit with filler pieces.
I don't mind this actually. my sport stuff is good for hiking and urbex and my other shit is for work and formal outings

Check out James Kearns. He does some interesting stuff. Very Rick silhouettes, with really high quality leathers.
instagram.com/jameskearnslondon/

Thanks for your very interesting answers guys !

I was thinking, maybe we should incorporate a Dark Fashion WDYWT into this thread? I've rarely seen people posting their fits

Seconding this motion

why dont we start a darkwear subreddit, i know reddit is pretty hated around here but its so much more organized than here because we can use upvoting/downvoting to express the feeling of a person's fit in a more statistical and organized manner with comments under that post only regarding to that fit instead of them sprinkled around throughout a thread.

and it would be a subreddit containing only us from here, maybe we could make it secure and require only people from this thread to be allowed in, idk how we would do that though, maybe a sign up through only the next couple threads and only the people who have responded could be allowed in or if they have like an instagram with clear knowledge of dark fashion they could be allowed in too. but the private sub may limit what is already a small community so idk, just throwing thoughts out there,

linking this to op so new comers can see this

check out jakob hetzer and gxwilson on instagram, both of them are young and for the most part they wear /dark fashion/ mixed w/ other shit so it's not as cosplay-esque

Hey I'm .

As much as I like the idea I don't think it would work. /r/avantgardefashion died because of a lack of participation, and it was created by one of the most known posters of reddit ( in terms of avant garde fits ).

I kinda know what I'm talking about , I'm a mod on one of the biggest fashion subreddits. I'd stay in here , this thread with a WDYWT in it could be something cool

damn that sucks, i guess here would be ok, but would the waywt be in this thread mixed in with the conversation or in a completely different thread?

If you want to controls who can post and what not why not a dischord? desu i really dont see why it has to be a closed community?

Bump

Can recommend to check out leon emanuel blanck, especially the leather jackets are 10/10.

Do you own any LEB? All of his stuff looks fantastic but I've never seen any of it in person.

I work with and have the phone number of the guy that organizes Berlin alternative fashion week. He wears Garreth Pugh waxed jeans, Guidi backzips and Hedi era Dior Homme outerwear. Am I Veeky Forums?

does anyone have a list of poorfag brands with this aesthetic? we had a lot of contributions in the last thread but i can not find it.

Army of Me
First Aid To The Injured
Leon Louis
Odeur
Thom Krom

I walked into Darklands once, the current one, it was just a small room with some shoes, some accessories and some jackets. There's no way that was all. Is the rest "hidden" and they only let you in by appointment or if you ask for it? Possibly on the floor below it? I arrived just 20 minutes before they closed, so I didn't bother asking them.

>There's no way that was all. Is the rest "hidden" and they only let you in by appointment or if you ask for it?

Probably. At the Owens store in LA, for instance, they have leather jackets in the back that aren't out on display. I assume this is the case with other stores, as well. They put the newest collection out for display and keep key/well-known pieces in the back.

where can i buy those boots or something similar to those, also the same for the pants

Darklands is a pretty large space with a huge collection. I think the last location had two floors even. Are you sure you weren't at Nag Nag Nag when they still had a physical location?

it's all Issey Miyake
good luck finding them for sale or even something similar
maybe Guidi for the boots and maybe some long ss collection Julius pants

tva origami pants from a few years back would work as well

no, it was the current location, with the doorbell, industrial elevator etc.
all doors in the staircase were closed except one at the top, and in that room there were two or three employees. i'm know it was the right location because i talked to one of them and he gave me the adress of their second store, the one with the diffusion lines.
right when i got in he came and asked what i was looking for, so i guess they just keep the door to the main space closed, maybe to avoid vandalism.

I'd assume it's because they sell pretty exclusive goods. They're not really a shop that encourages browsing outside of some of the open events they host. It's like walking into a ferrari dealership; they'll immediately ask what you want. Ordering from Darklands online is pretty much the same experience. You send Campbell an email with the things you want to buy and he says okay and that's about it. Some people take issue with that but I see it as a pretty streamlined buying experience. You can view their whole stock online anyway so I think they're assuming you'd have an idea of what you want to see when you walk in.