/DIY/

Drag it across the pavement with your shoe

It was from Knitting #173 (October 2017 issue).

There's not much else in there that would be of much interest though I'm afraid. There's some ugly trying to be 1960s style knitwear patterns with some impractical shawls and the second part of a mystery blanket knit along and something about knitting birds (?), and some information about upcoming UK yarn fairs and pattern book releases.

The main thing I bought it for was the yarn reviews, so I'll post that if you want, and a page on durable yarns (although I question their judgement that Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino keeps its shape.)

Here's the page on durable yarns. I don't agree on it all, but some are definite good picks. Rowan felted tweed especially. (anything Rowan do is excellent though, so that's not much of a surprise).

Here's page one of the winter reviews.
They're lacking a bit of detail this month so they're not actually that helpful. The rico yarn sounds like an amazing price for the quantity though, but I'm not sure I'm sold on the gradient.

And page 2.
I'm interested in how the wool and the gang yarn measures up to their Crazy Sexy Wool, which is one of the few yarns I've found to actually live up to its claim to work on 15mm needles, but I think part of its success laid in the that it was unplied. Heal the Wool looks to be a bit of a Rowan Big Wool clone, but with fewer colours and for a higher price.

Bought this coat basically just to tear it apart

Open to ideas, panels, distress, dyeing etc

Give us a better pic, we can't see shit

pastebin.com/ZqcQW2g9
So this is what you need to keep in mind when buying yarns for you knitting projects.

Any spelling and grammatical errors?
Are there points that were not mentioned and should be?
What is worsting?
What else can you do to treat your knits well?

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Anyone know some good dyes? I'm gonna do a complete change on this Anorak that I copped. I don't really care about the price, since I just want a dye with good quality. I'm looking for a good olive dye.

Wanting to replace my leather collar on my Harrington jacket with a corduroy collar. Any tips?

Hey nice job.

>Are there points that were not mentioned and should be?
One thing that's worth mentioning, but wasn't really relevant for that article, is the use of more 'rustic' yarns. I don't know the proper term for them, but highland, Shetland and Icelandic wools tend to be really suited for cold weather projects. Icelandic lopi in particular has excellent heat trapping qualities while also being semi water resistant because the sheep fleece has two distinct layers - the outer, harsher layer repels water and the softer inner core is insulting. Icelandic lopi yarns keep those layers together.
The wool can feel a bit unusual and scratchy and coarse when you first touch it, but I knitted a jumper up in some lettlopi about a month back and somehow it doesn't feel as scratchy as it definitely should when worn. It's a tough yarn, but it's not to everyone's taste.

>What is worsting?
Mentions worsting in the article
>You will also see yarns referred to as worsted. The worsting process removes the short fibres before the yarn is spun. This means they are likely to be more durable with less risk of pilling.

The confusing thing about that though is that worsted also refers to a weight of yarn that's thicker than dk and about equivalent to aran weight, and doesn't necessarily have anything to do with the process. I don't know why they use the same terms, it's confusing.

>What else can you do to treat your knits well?
Depends what it is generally. Don't hang it, use eucalyptus or lavender wool wash to repel moths if it's animal fibre.
Keep yarn labels. Handknits can be a nightmare if you haven't kept a care label, but with the care label you'll get instructions. Super wash yarns can and should be gently tumble dried unless it's a lace project. Air drying superwash yarn stretches it out, tumble drying gently gives it shape back.
But the same treatment can felt and destroy a non-superwash yarn.

Kind of a strange question but thought someone here might be experienced enough to answer.

What are some ways to really exploit tailored/custom (women's) clothing design? Like what sort of patterns and details become possible or impressive on a piece you make yourself to your own exact measurements and design choices that you just can't do with off the rack?

I want to take advantage of making something myself, but I want to do something that really sets it apart from off-the-rack.

any recommended sewing guides for 100% newfags? My end goal is altering jeans.

>Tfw my Veeky Forums mangu character is in the collage..
Feels good desu..

I find as a newbie just take a pair of jeans/pants you like the fit of and just use it as a ruler of sorts and trace it on with chalk or pen onto your old jeans and just sew try on and if you like it THEN cut the excess off

Did this a couple times and worked like a charm

I've kinda made some pants it's my first time I've really made something. Is anyone interested?

Sounds fine, I'll wing it like that

It's DIY thread, answer is automatically "yes"

yeah obviously

yeah I'm a d/ic/k so drawings have a high chance of ending up in the collage
may be unprofessional but fuck it

What yarns are s best suited for warm weather?

I meant to say, what is the worsting process? How are the short fibres removed?
dk? aran weight?
Should you consider the weight of a yarn in your purchases?

nice job

Cotton yarns are generally suited to warm weather, but it depends on what you're making really. A lace pattern is always going to be cooler than a turtleneck whatever yarn it's made with, but generally speaking for tops or whatever, cotton yarns work well for warmer weather.

I'm not sure how the worsting process works actually! I'd never thought much beyond what it does - the how never occurred. Might be something to research when I'm less busy!

Dk and aran weight yarn are two of the nice middling kind of yarn weights that aren't too fine to be viable for large projects but aren't so chunky they'll make clothing impractical. There's a guide here to what the different weights mean: craftyarncouncil.com/weight.html

Yarn weight is a fairly vague descriptor - I've bought fingering weight yarns from different brands in the past that are fairly different in thickness but all fall within an overall fingering category - but is useful for both telling what range you should expect the guage to fall in and what kind of bulk to expect from the finished product.
Guage/tension is pretty crucial for projects because that tells you how many stitches you should have per inch, which is what you need to know when following patterns.

To give you an idea the picture shows three different weights.

The blue is an unplied wool. I think from Lana Grossa but I can't remember now. It's chunky weight and used 10mm needles. Can't remember what the exact gauge worked out to be but it was a fairly low number of stitches per inch, probably 2.5 or so.

The multicoloured yarn is fyberspates 4ply vivacious. It's a fingering weight plied merino yarn with a fairly tight twist. It's roughly 6.5 stitches per inch and used 3.75mm needles.

The beige is lettlopi yarn, 100% Icelandic wool which hits around worsted weight. It's got a light twist, but it's quite hard to spot so it looks more like an unplied yarn. That worked out at 4 stitches per inch and used 5mm needles.

Ran out of characters.

You can see the different characteristics yarn choices can give something there.
The lettlopi has the guard fibres still attached to the wool and you can see the resulting fuzziness, whereas the fyberspates is more highly processed and twisted which gives it a more smoothed appearance.

You can also see little shadows in some of the legs of the stitches in the fyberspates because it's plied, whereas the Lana grossa stitch legs are smooth and unshadowed. Essentially plied yarn is more like a rope with several pieces twisted together and unplied is like a long tube of fibres that aren't twisted but are just sitting next to each other.

repost

google.nl/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwja3sDT0JzWAhUBYVAKHT5MC-QQFggyMAA&url=https://linda.karlov.mff.cuni.cz/~michal/kajfosz/John%20Marshall-Make%20Your%20Own%20Japanese%20Clothes_%20Patterns%20and%20Ideas%20for%20Modern%20Wear-Kodansha%20International%20Ltd.%20(1988).pdf&usg=AFQjCNFM2M_YKuwhMnHzGJqnEUwXckLajA

www57.zippyshare.com/v/FCr7zT5Y/file.html

thanks!

cool, i have a few shirts I want to try this with

I OWN THIS

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Nice. Where'd you get it?

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it would be easier if you actually worked/skated/partied hard to achieve this outcome, plus you'll look more cool

thanks user

my friend found it in a take a book leave a book thing where i live in seattle wa~

If I wanted to create patches like on the raf parkas/sweaters
in full color, what is the best way to go about it?

also trying to get maybe multiple fabrics also

What is the best purple dye out there?

That's neet `3`

...

You seem to know your yarns. What should a novice look for in a good wool blend for winter socks?

Screenprint tshirts and cut them out?

RIT dye fucking sucks.
The jacket looked good as it was still wet, after an hour it is like the dye evaporated.
I even used the retaining liquid lol

I love how much volume wool has and how edges don’t fray

I'm not an experienced sock maker but I think generally what you'd be looking for is a plied yarn around fingering weight (which is often interchangeable with sock weight in name).

Generally for a blend you want something that will give hardiness and stretch but is also soft enough to work as socks. Merino wool and nylon is a common blend, usually with a 75/25 90/10 merino to nylon split, but I can't say for certain which end of the split works best because I'm not much of a sock knitter.

I should add that only applies to handknits! I think commercial/mass produced sock guidelines would be different.

Any ideas for what I could do with hoodie in pic related. I slashed a tiny amount of bleach on one of the pockets by accident and I was wondering what I should do with it now.

Well don't do what most of DiY will tell you and that is bleaching it all, don't do it, it's been done to death

Try finding similar colored fabric and sewing pockets
Or making geometric symmetrical designs like T shape in the middle of and upside down T shape Idk
You can extend it with fabric
You can add zippers on the arms
You can make it lunarcoreish
You can make it tech wearish
You can do alot of stuff to it
You can cut the sleeves off

Are the pants in pic related DIY cut?
If they are, how do I do it?
If not, what pants are they?

what are you making?
also how big is your seam allowance at your neckline?

the edges not fraying are just based on the structure of that fabric, which i'm assuming is herringbone
i'm working with a wool gabardine right now that frays like crazy, made me have to alter my seam plan

has someone expierence with painting black boots white? Does Angelus Acryl work?

What was the fabric made of? Dye it a couple of times more?
You mean unhemmed jeans?

I ran a wool blanket through the wash a few times and so it’s felted up a little bit, it’s a loose-woven serge twill.

It’s kinda a bitch to work with though, as proper lines are hard to draw on such a mushy fabric, so it’s probably going to end up a very loosely fitted, comfy kinda meme. The seam allowances are also pretty loose as there’s no way i’m going to properly finish any seams on material that thick; it’s enough for the thread to catch and hold + plenty of tolerance

are they actually just jeans?
I thought they might be some type of cotton or linen

What are you making?

The quality is so low I can't tell.

Are pearly kings/queens effay?

hell yeah, mate

I purchased this members only jacket awhile ago. I like the cut and all but the turqoise color is a bit too loud. Is there any way I can dye it? I believe it's polyester. I was thinking a dark blue would be nice. If I can't dye it, should I bleach it for a super faded look?

My bad, here's a fixed image

anyone know where I can buy some indigo patches for jeans repair, going for a japananese boro look

Old jeans, ya dingus.

>i'm working with a wool gabardine right now that frays like crazy, made me have to alter my seam plan
what are you making?
making gabardine wool coat right now myself

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Working on a thing

why were you shilling your shoes on /r9k/ like a week ago

Anyone got advice on how to avoid fading on a spray-painted shirt? I made on recently, but the wash has been removing it hardcore.

a pair of trousers for a stylist i know, trying to get our brand's name out a little since we've gotten nowhere since launch

my gab is 8 oz, and i've yet to see one over 12 oz
are you going for a lightweight coat, or did you happen to find a nice weight?

what's going on here?

The stuff I got is 15 ounces, wanted something heavy for winter use and to really get that draping going as my plan is to make something that ends under my knees.
Still trying to figure out the lining material I should use, I really like the look of Paul Hardnen's lining but it's plain cotton and the functionality worries me a bit. I did find this linen/silk blend though, any thoughts on that?
And while I think I could just do the coat without lining, gabardine isn't the most insulating type of fabric and the winters are kinda harsh here so I want to add something at least.

linen is a breathable fabric but won't keep warmth in, however silk--although cold to the touch--is actually an insulator, so you'd be fine depending on if the silk is the majority fiber

i would look for a brushed cupro twill
a lot of high end brands use this for their winter coats

you could even go with a nice nylon for a sportswear take on a coat

>linen is a breathable fabric but won't keep warmth in, however silk--although cold to the touch--is actually an insulator, so you'd be fine depending on if the silk is the majority fiber
pretty much what I was thinking, I think they key to insulation is to have lining to begin with though as it traps air between the outer fabric and lining

whoever the fuck is ghostbumping these threads, fucking stop you absolute faggot, if the thread dies naturally then so be it, someone will make another one if they have something worthwhile to post

How do I start my own sewing club? There's a thrift store at my university and I think it could be expanded.

Got this thing printed today.
Gonna cut out the image part and stick it onto the back of my black parka.

What's the best way? Sew it on? Use hot iron glue? Use velcro?

sew or glue
pastebin says you can try using an iron on glue

I wanna get my favourite album cover put on my denim trucker.

How would I go about doing this? Would I have to find a screen printer? Or do it myself? I don't have a big printer so I can't print something big enough.

Also would a green coloured album cover fit on lightwash denim

What album cover? Where do you want to put it and how big is the image?
Green on light blue? Do you like that? Maybe use a third colour as mediator?

This one a right on the back part, might find a text removed part probably. Either that or I could just put it gonna hoodie in the future but in unsure about that.

Not sure what else I could put this on in terms of colour etc.

Any DIY anons have any advice on doing drawings/illustrations for fits and such?

Any links and resources or good stuff to follow?

Also should I get into using illustrator too?

When I went to fashion school the recommended site for buying fabrics with custom prints was printunlimited.nl/en/home/

They have all sorts of fabrics. Even premium high end stuff like silk twill, etc.

Sit in a dark room, use your computer screen as a lightboard, put paper over, trace runway shows. Do this a lot and you will be decent within a month. Switch it up a bit by tracing different pieces from different shows/looks together to make new looks - take elements from one piece and mix it up with other pieces.

This is how I learnt fashion drawing.

will do this right now. thanks user, appreciated.

/ic/ is better fit for that question than us
however i am a drawfag
show me one of your drawings so i can see at what level you are rn

My drawing skills are below subpar, I'm literally a shitter bit I want to improve. Tried to redraw a fit pic i know it sucks.

inspo pic from my folder* not a fit pic.

pic related

learn how to do technical flats before you get into fashion illustrations
you should understand the shape of an item before you go into how an item fits on a body

would/ic/ have anything on technical flats? Or do You have somewhere recommended?

I need to learn asap cos I need it for my portfolio (planning to study Fashion design but need to do art and design shit first )

get illustrator, download a mens or womens croqui, and follow technical flat tutorials

technical flats are mostly used for tech packs and line sheets, but they're definitely important to know for a design major

thanks, Will definitely do tomorrow. much appreciated

how to cut off a t-shirt's collar without fucking it up too bad

oh wow
read some loomis and try to stop chicken scratching
but remember, loomis is for you to become a classical artist, and you want to become a fashion illustrator
so don't beat yourself up over every single detail, you only need a basic understanding of the human body and perspective, nothing too crazy
but your lines really do suck and that's important for fashion drawing
practice practice and practice to get cleaner longer smoother lines.
and keep trying to redraw fit pics that you like, that's a great exercise

it's really all about practice. It's not that hard, just long. don't give up and you'll make it

The colours are fine.
Use a seamripper.