YYPH

Where can I currently buy a shirt like Yohji's inn this pic? One or two similar breast pockets and all. Love the boxy military look at the moment.

yeah, wim wenders probably wasn't the best pick to make that doc

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What are you all's favourite Yohji fits? As in worn by Yohji?

reply to ...

I liked him at fw15

shitpost

i liked his simple fits from the late 80s like in "notebooks on cites and clothes" that is the aesthetic that i'm personally going for myself
w2c manlet clown boots?

All time favorite has to be the Ground-Y Evangelion collection. Have to find this coat

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pls respond

imma bump

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legendary

How does he justify the prices? Is it the quality of the materials and cut or are they just over inflated prices like anyone big name?

I assumed his prices went up after he filed for bankruptcy and received new investment. basically his customers are luxury fashion consumers so they'll bear the cost. not really sure though, maybe someone knows about his pricing pre-2009.

he is really /ourguy/

Is that inverse of or is that just the back? 'Cause I'd literally give up whatever the rest of mu life entails for that

>I didn't want to to disturb peoples eyes

i would say he sold out but i think hes really just not as inspired or passionate anymore, irene silvagni touched on it in her interview with bryonesque

thats so fucking bad hahahaha

at least he used a diffusion line for it and didnt ruin his mainline

he is still using the same fabric manufacturer as he always has which is incredibly expensive (notice how a lot of similar brands went to cheaper fabrics over the years i.e. comme switching a lot of production from wool to polyester) also he does stupid expensive processes like handpainting jackets and other dumb shit like overdesigned straps and stupid little details + you're paying minimum 30% mark up over japanese retail in the west and usually its more than that

also keep in mind brands frequently arbritarily raise prices to seem more luxe and so when you see a yohji coat for 12k usd on farfetch you go "wow what the fuck this is expensive" but look at a gucci leather jacket thats as embellished that sells for say 25k kind of puts things in perspective, the only pricing increases for yohji clothes that makes it unsustainable in my opinion is in the 2nd hand market 2012/2013 you could buy full runway fits for like 35k yen, now youre looking at 100k or more

>tfw no yohji core gf

I think he's stagnating aswell
The seasonal Men's collections have consistently largely been a play of the same old warped suiting tropes he's used since the 90s (intensive loose suiting) . However since 2012 it's taken a kind of Dries flourish where it's always withdrawn to playing with new bold graphics.

It's great but pales in comparison to his early 2000s work, even his contemporary runways suck.

The movie is fucking horrible. it's over an hour of wim wenders stroking his dick and exoticising Japanese fashion globalisation with a infantalising and endearing tone. As if it were cute to observe.

[Citation needed]
CDG has always used plastics in blends with wool... i have a sweater from 1984 which is acrylic wool blend. I don't think comme has switched.

What are you trying to say by comparing japanese retail to west retail prices?

the second hand market stuff is such a fucking shit show now. But... I've managed to nab pretty old sample Yohji for 4k yen at times because people sleep god bless.

(GBS image, on wrong laptop, sorry.)

god can anyone read these fucking yohji interviews without laughing?

talk about old dogs not being able to learn new tricks, christ.

dude was dead in the water 4 years ago
hypebeast.com/2012/9/yohji-yamamoto-talks-fashion-bankruptcy-and-death

guess some poor fuker has to hold this shit down,

i'm writing in your favour.

naively think i'm unfukable on Yohji shit but i'll keep it real and haven't seen any of his shit in the last two years.

fight me

sure comme has used blends since forever but i was talking about their 100% polyester fabrics, which as far as i was aware was brought in as a cost saving measure instead of using wool or wool blend

also the user was wondering why retail was so expensive, i assumed he's only seen western retail prices online(this is fa after all) so mentioning that there is a signifcant markup on those prices over japanese ones is relevant

and yeah yeah there are still steals but its harder and harder these days

blue V and dg combo
still the thing to do

100% polyester has been consistent in CDG CDG (not mainline)
although mainline has started relying more heavy on polyester i would say that's with intent opposed to fiscal compromise.

Plastic fabrics have characters which may desired that natural fibers don't have.

it's important to discern between that "was this material the right choice here?"
that kind of consideration says a lot

Blends aren't always a cost saving measure, sometimes offer elasticity and shape integrity pure wool wouldn't satisfy.

Yohji retail is expensive everywhere, it's a luxury good. It's probably cheaper in Japan because MAYBE department store premiums and cost of transportation don't need to be accounted for.

But for clothing, even relatively it's extremely expensive.

Sure is. Second market will be hustlers market in 5 months, unless a dude is infoed up- always b up on the info.

info like watching for ripples

WHEN U COME OUT UR SHIT IS GONE
WHEN U COME OUT UR SHIT IS GONE
WHEN U COME OUT UR SHIT IS GONE
WHEN U COME OUT UR SHIT IS GONE
WHEN U COME OUT UR SHIT IS GONE
WHEN U COME OUT UR SHIT IS GONE

Price point?

Thrift stores drown in it for the most part.
it's a careful consideration of shape

yohji's one is highly specific but wim wenders much more accessible- by lets say miyake's offerings (shirts like that come and go around $80)

in general:
note the billowing around the waist,
the shape of the shirt as it passes from the torso into the sleeve (on wim wenders)
the squarish shape is very typical of 90s and early 2000s japanese suiting, and thereby shirts.

RUTHLESS N FREE, IT'S ALL SUICIDE ME
RUTHLESS N FREE, IT'S ALL SUICIDE ME
RUTHLESS N FREE, IT'S ALL SUICIDE ME
RUTHLESS N FREE, IT'S ALL SUICIDE ME

I have this large black yohji scarf and have no idea what year it was made or anything. Do any of you know?

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vintagefashionguild.org/label-resource/yamamoto-yohji/

mid 2000s ish

I have a jacket with the same emblem from early 2000s
Use to have a runway shot from somewhere in the 2000s where that label was stitched onto the outer, but in red.

I see, great thank you!

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ight well op died and this thread is officially dead
maybe later

fuck OP, this thread is going places

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one of the highlights from ss16 imo, good to see yohji doing more conventionally fitted suits even though I love his loose fitting ones

Shoes ruin it

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yeah, I wish he would have played it safer with the shoes that season.

this one is also just a really flattering photo imo

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Dude dresses like my bioethics teacher, who really isn't Veeky Forums.

post pic

Will if I remember when I see him again

ah I thought there might be a pic of him on the internet or something, don't worry about it

This one? businessoffashion.com/articles/opinion/op-ed-when-passion-was-everything

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bigger ver

Damn that's good.

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this is a pour homme thread my friends

>tfw gf wears yohji

feels good man

Is this Yohji?

according to shui's lookbook post his pants and cardigan are

good thread

cardigan? isn't that a sweater tho

it's hard to tell but I'm pretty sure it's a cardigan. I can't link to the original post but if you search "shui tsang 14812 lookbook" you'll be able to find it.

this

Because yohji did sell out, to an extent. Since his parent company set a 20-year-plan to bring him out of the red he's changed his tone from "I think it's hard to imagine my brand without me. I think Yohji Yamamoto will die with Yohji Yamamoto" to "I really don’t care if the label exists after I’m gone."

Even though the brand/clothing from the 90's vs. 2017 could just be considered as the brand's aesthetic evolving over time, yohji as a brand is def pandering to new gen fashion consumers who fuel the brand's profits (especially Chinese/Koreans) b/c they love highly visual and "obvious" branding. That's why the logo/his paintings of himself/bold graphics are splattered all over recent collections, because they'll eat that shit up.
I don't think most old ladies who technically fall into yohji's target demographic would buy most of the busy yypf runway pieces nowadays. But a gigantic puffer covered in paint splatters is gonna garner more brand interest on social media than a simple black cardigan.

The brand is definitely selling the myth of the master along with the clothes. The yohji empire has so many different lines and collabs it's ridiculous to think he personally touches everything and sniffs the fabric while holed up in his studio like some zen master shokunin hermit. I think this quote from a dazed interview accurately explains it: "How can you avoid becoming a fashion victim? 'It’s quite easy: don’t copy your friend... Don’t be one of a group. Be yourself. Stay a little bit monotone – walk on our side of the street, don’t walk the mainstream of fashion. You’ll be polluted by trends" which basically translates to "hey don't follow Gucci/Balenciaga but follow kleeheelk/dianashi/davidlee on instagram because they all wear oversized black shit [even though everyone wears oversized black shit] and hate branding [even though they're all carrying logo tote bags]"

srry this was long and rambly

i really don't think cares that much about that korean retard

Loool I don't think so either but hey it's free advertising they have to keep up the PR relationship to some extent

>Implying gods can die

Good post. I think I agree with you, even as a buyer of current Yohji. I prefer the "tamer", more subtle pieces.

yeah good point, although a lot of his clothes feature weird skeleton versions of himself as well as images of rei, so I just assumed that was because he's been preoccupied with thoughts of his own death and his memories of her. like, I saw that as him trying to make more personal statements with his work rather than just branding himself, but I might be wrong. there was an interview with him (can't remember where from) where he was saying that he used to design by giving himself strict limitations (no traditional clothing, sparing use of colour, etc), and that only recently he started feeling like he was free to do whatever he wanted. fyi, I'm the person you replied to, so it's not like I'm happy with the path he's on now.

read: I don't like colour

Obviously that isn't a cardigan, doesn't matter what the lookbook says

Colour sucks ass

What kind of shoes would go with yohji fits? Is there certain qualities i should look for in a shoe to pair with yohji?

I prefer wearing his simpler pieces too, simply because the runway garments are just impractical for everyday life, and I think most people will say the same. But as they say, the aspirational 20% of a collection moves the other 80% commercial product. Maybe if I was a rich grandma with important brunch dates or working as fashion PR/stylist I'd be able to consider buying those pieces. But for a job that requires running around? Nah. Even the man himself (and pretty much every other fashion designer ever) doesn't wear ostentatious stuff.

It could easily be a bit of everything! Maybe his financiers asked him to capitalize off his persona and it allowed him to become more introspective and also give less fucks in a sense.

It's a cardigan.

Oh yeah. I'm blind. It's a cardingan open over a t-shirt

it's just hard to tell with the original photo since the brightness is so turned down. everything having to be grayscale is definitely something I don't miss about that gothninja era.

>It's one of those good threads we get once a year

this isn't a good thread lmao

go make a good one then

literally no point on fa

then get a life and leave?

Requesting pic of Yohji giving the rude finger

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Thanks mate