British heritage menswear

This list.

Especially Barbour, can't beat the jackets.

British heritage menswear is all about tailoring, Savile Row or provincial. Shit like Burberry and Daks aren't heritage in any sense, they's 1960s not-even-money shit. If you want to do it right, buy second-hand tailored pieces and avoid anything with a label in it like the plague.

The only brands that even remotely have an application are Barbour (for the waxed jackets ONLY) and old, black-and-silver tag Burton (the only label that did consistently high quality RTW). The whole concept of Ralph is to copy classic British tailoring so that's an OK buy if you just want to fake the look.

(Harris tweed is everywhere in good countrywear tailoring, but it's a cloth type with a trademark, not a brand. The brand if anything is John G. Hardy, the cloth merchant who was the main source for tweed back in the day and originally brought it to the attention of tailors and the upper class.)

Reminder that the entire point of "heritage" clothing is that it's made by your neighbors, and if you're buying products from "heritage brands" that have moved production to China, Mexico, Vietnam, etc, you may as well save some money and buy knockoffs on AliExpress

i don't like barbour jackets. i have one and i sweat too much in it, it's too heavy, doesn't pack up, i put my hands in the pockets and they come out really clammy and greasy, and the hood is shit tier.

British menswear and English style are the foundation of modern Western style because of Empire. All the basic shapes (with casual American influences inspired by English stuff) and memes, socalled classics were created in the UK.

City wear
Very famous savile row houses, most English RTW quality makers were BTFO out by the Italians (Armani, Canali, Corneliani, Zegna) and Continentals (German Boss and French luxury brands).

Jewelers and 'gentlemanly accessories'
Dunhill survived. Lighters, hip flasks, tie clips, money clips and cufflinks.

Country wear
Cordings orginally did the whole look since the beginning.

Barbour, Dubarry, , Crombie all have extensions to start providing the whole look and marketing it.

Shirts and ties
Jermyn Street is world famous, created the shirt as we know it today. They now are differentiated between low and high end but style is the same. Split yoke, shirts with plackets etc etc etc.

Turnbull Asser, Hilditch, Thomas Pink, New and Lingwood, Charles Tyrwhitt, Harvie and Hudson, Budd, TM Lewin, Hawes & Curtis

Outerwear
It rains a lot in the U.K. so they got coats down.

Burberry, Mackintosh and Aquascutum for raincoats, Gloverall for their dufllecoats, Crombie for their Crombie coat, Barbour for their waxed cotton jackets and coats, Belstaff for their motorcycle jackets in leather and waxed cotton, Baracuta for their Harrington jackets, Cordings for tweed field coats and shooting jackets, Grenfell for all round stuff.

Knitwear
There are a million scottish knitwear brands and a lot of them are old.

pringle, johnstons, lockie, alan paine and smedley are most famous

Shoes,
Shitton of Northampton brands famous for shoes and boots made using goodyear construction to keep feet dry during wet days.

Crockett and Jones, Edward Green, Lobb, Churchs, Barker, Dr Martens, Clarks, Grenson, Cheaney, Loake, Tricker's, Dubarry

>All the basic shapes (with casual American influences inspired by English stuff) and memes, socalled classics were created in the UK.
Well yeah, that's true. Beau Brummell ended up being crazy influential in the long run, classic case of one individual changing the entire course of a culture/aspect of culture.

>Cordings
A lot of moneyed Brits do buy from Cordings, but their cloth quality is way down these days. Cordings is that kind of... "I can't afford a decent tailor and I know squat about quality so I'm going to play it safe" shop.

>Thomas Pink, New and Lingwood
Memers for the English equivalent of prep. They're not heritage or classic in any sense, N&L in particular is really fixed in the "overpriced horseshit" niche.

Honestly, the key is even a third rate tailor will do a better job for you when it comes to trad Brit than any RTW maker and you can get a really top notch cloth. There's no reason to go to a tailor for your town kit and then buy countrywear off the rack either, if anything good tailoring is more pleasing in tweed. Focusing on brands is an inherently hypebeast thing to do.

>Well yeah, that's true. Beau Brummell ended up being crazy influential in the long run, classic case of one individual changing the entire course of a culture/aspect of culture.

Empire helped alot, London was to mens fashion what Paris was (and still is) to womens fashions. Men around the world aspired to dress like an English gentleman until the American Empire became the worlds Western hegemon.

The only quality RTW shirtmaker left is Turnbull, all others moved down in price and quality. Most of them are buy 3 pay 2 shit tier made in the far east.

But if you look at the historical core of their product gamma you can find what the English shirt is, how its shoulder looks, its cuffs, and collars.

>Honestly, the key is even a third rate tailor will do a better job for you when it comes to trad Brit than any RTW maker and you can get a really top notch cloth. There's no reason to go to a tailor for your town kit and then buy countrywear off the rack either, if anything good tailoring is more pleasing in tweed. Focusing on brands is an inherently hypebeast thing to do.

I agree most of these RTW brands started compromising on style and quality when they became mass market brands in the 80s. But they used to represent something, they had prestigious clientele once upon a time.

The same happened to Brook Brothers and all the American preppy brands. They all started chasing mass markets hoping to cash in on their cachet.

>Well yeah, that's true. Beau Brummell ended up being crazy influential in the long run, classic case of one individual changing the entire course of a culture/aspect of culture.

Empire helped alot, London was to mens fashion what Paris was (and still is) to womens fashions. Men around the world aspired to dress like an English gentleman until the American Empire became the worlds Western hegemon.

>Honestly, the key is even a third rate tailor will do a better job for you when it comes to trad Brit than any RTW maker and you can get a really top notch cloth. There's no reason to go to a tailor for your town kit and then buy countrywear off the rack either, if anything good tailoring is more pleasing in tweed. Focusing on brands is an inherently hypebeast thing to do.

The only quality RTW shirtmaker left is Turnbull, all others moved down in price and quality. Most of them are buy 3 pay 2 shit tier made in the far east.

But if you look at the historical core of their product gamma you can find what the English shirt is, how its shoulder looks, its cuffs, and collars.

----

I agree most of these RTW brands started compromising on style and quality when they became mass market brands in the 80s. But they used to represent something, they had prestigious clientele once upon a time.

The same happened to Brook Brothers and all the American preppy brands. They all started chasing mass markets hoping to cash in on their cachet.

But this stuff is dying. Nike, Adidas and Under Armor will survive and define menswear as historical brands in a few decades. Imagine the Nike Air Max having the same classy status as a brogue. LOL, its gonna happen.

Hackett will probably preserve and appropriate the look completely because no-one else was agressive enough. And Savile Row brands can downmarket to become popular without offending their existing customer base.

Ralph did the same for the American prep look, in a commericalized way in the grunge 90s.

>The only quality RTW shirtmaker left is Turnbull, all others moved down in price and quality. Most of them are buy 3 pay 2 shit tier made in the far east.
Agreed 100%. Even RTW Turnbull aren't really as good as getting your shirts tailor-made, though. You pay more per shirt and you don't get them cut to fit.

>But they used to represent something, they had prestigious clientele once upon a time.
Some of them did, sure. But at that time notably they were much cheaper as well, Burberry for example has increased the prices of their clobber more than 10x in real terms while dropping the quality of both cloth and production. That has nothing to do with English heritage and everything to do with selling to Asian hypebeasts. The only guys really keeping the flag flying on this point is Barbour, their jackets still have a sensible price tag and are sturdy.

>The same happened to Brook Brothers and all the American preppy brands. They all started chasing mass markets hoping to cash in on their cachet.
You know Brooks Brothers was owned by Sparks at one point, right?

I know what you mean about sweating, they aren't very breathable I'll give you that. They're great for rainy days though.

Sucks that these threads never seem to live long

second cabourn and howell. both are incredible quality/cuts

oliver spencer's stuff always looks a little bit too oxford boy for me, less utilitarian than the other two i guess

Cabourn trousers are sick

without the US, the whole world would not be western-centric.