FW18 Menswear Collections

Its over post favorites and discuss

dis nigga shit

dis tho

oh shit its the same model, damn he doing work

DUDE BIG PRINTS LMAO

kiko was good, somewhat of a departure from his earlier stuff but to anyone paying attention he's always had a wider range of references and inspirations than what he chose to show until now. felt like perfect timing, a pivotal collection just as people are really beginning to come around to considering his proposals. another collection along the lines of the first 2 may have run the risk of getting stale, which would have been a shame because the technical level of his stuff is definitely noteworthy. great use of colors, i think his sense of color is really starting to make sense with this one, and the collaborations with katsuya kamo/asics/camper are such on point moves, even if im not a fan of some of the end products themselves. the softening of his tone with more jersey-looking materials and knitted elements (pouch bags) was also a subtle but pronounced addition, diversifying the brand at an appropriate pace, introducing the idea that it may not just be a tech-y workwear influenced brand, hinting at the potential for more flexibility ex. his more "traditional" pieces like jacket in pic related. type of items collaborated on with brands is also a good move b/c it may be showing that he's driven to always push things an extra step forward and really try to innovate or do something new with the opportunities he has. the asics running apparel may not be the most popular (or it might, who knows) but it's such a relevant stimulating proposal at this time (oh kiko asics running tights? lol oh damn thats kinda weird but yeah maybe?) which is healthy for a brand's standing & legacy, not just having random vague offshoots that didnt really make an impact, just adding more unneeded baggage to a brand. he is leading and that's what's important with things like this, staying a few steps ahead. addition of womens was a great idea too, he's very talented and he definitely has some great ideas to suggest for womenswear.

Shut the fuck up

Belstaff - evolution of the trialmaster.

some of his color design / graphic items still seem a little jarring to me but it almost feels like an industrial approach, the suggestion of this color contrasted with another color in this shape on this part of the body. keeps his collections flowing in a nice rhythm, adding a bit of variety. the man definitely is in tune with experiences of everyday wear, so im sure he'd be good at putting out more commercial items / iterations too. his vision exists somewhere between the everyday reality and fiction, somewhere between exactly right now and the near future. it gives his work a sense of tension, keeping people very very curious about his output. i think it's a great place to be and i really admire the work he's able to do at the same time with mackintosh and his new project affix works. all 3 of these are pushing boundaries and leading, and it's really impressive. mackintosh also had a spike in energy this season and the collection was so fucking on point. more colorful than the kiko brand palettes but still that unmistakable sense of color, all the way down to the color of the stage. so good. presentation format (3 models rotating in triangular fashion atop long rectangle) was a great (and again, such a relevant move / attitude for the moment) nod to yohji (yyph ss00). definitely more everyday view / mode of clothing but the sense of proportion and lines unmistakably kiko. excellent mix of updated classic and revisited suggestions (really? who would've thought the kiko mackintosh man would carry around a pouch?). also has in previous collections shown that he really uses the resources available to him, innovating in construction techniques / cut, etc. affix works is also such a fucking good brand already because it is A. conceptually relevant (meta-technical clothing) and B. positioned casually (not high fashion). kiko is somewhat lauded as being a designer in a noble sort of way, so it's exciting to see an avenue where he can express

those blonde wigs though....do you know if they provided a backstory/explanation?

"Celestial" blonde wigs, whatever that means, I like the clothes and accessories - minimal/futuristic, I hope fashions head toward a more simplistic approach in general.

street sensibilities / attitude. attention to detail and construction still strong from the few photos I've seen, it's great that he's got such a strong foundation and philosophy to his practice, gives alot more weight to the output. also speaking of the guy being talented at collaborating with the right people, whoever does his casting is also doing a great job. too many brands with their image diluted / diminished due to ineffective casting

kiko is everything a new designer brand should be in this day and age. pretty refreshing to see someone with this much vigor and stamina really doing something new

Long running conceptual designers, very unsurprisingly, were the best. Rick Owens, John Galliano, Dries van Noten and Demna Gvasalia. Vetements especially was at the top of it's game, easily the best collection to date.
The rest for the most part was just a gray blur, it's hard to even tell brands a part when everyone is doing the vetements inspired high fashion streetwear combination bullshit.

speaking of new designers whats going on with wales bonner

i seriously cant tell if its because i personally shifted gears pretty hard in my idea of good design in the past few seasons so im just less interested / aware of it but feels to me like that wave she was part of in her debut period has suddenly nose dived. gucci is still putting out good product but is anyone "dreaming" about it still? geniunely curious. she won the lvmh prize too so its strange that to me it feels like she was just a flash in the pan when she has all the attention and support / resources. maybe timing? is her statement too much for the casual spirit of the moment? too much effort to get behind? loverboy too, i remember 1 or 2 seasons ago i was all about that wave but this time around i look at it and im just tired of it, looks ridiculous and unwearable, unrealistic. who wants these clothes? i mean is it selling? i have this weird feeling loverboy is going to be like one of those industry insider favourites than end of going out of business / getting forgotten about when they're no longer the cutting edge.

prada this season was a little disappointing, personally feel that the references are being expressed too literally in the past few years, making things look a little too "pop", a little TOO much like caricature. I liked prada collections when references were more nuanced and you could imagine what type of character the model could be instead of the model blatantly being the character. the name / id tags were way too frequently occuring, a small pocket / group of looks would have sufficed. retrospective / self referential aspect of prints in the collection felt weird because it was sort of thrown into an already heavily themed environment / collection (security), like do they want us to imagine our way into this fiction or think about reality? which is it? silhouettes were too oversized to be repeating too many of the similar looks, more polarity / variety in proportions within the collection would have made it feel more balanced in my opinion, especially since alot of the fabrications / colors were already repetetive. prada sport has always low key been the shit but this season feels like they became self aware of it (and recentl prada logo accessories) so the efforts in highlighting prada sport felt inauthentic and defeated the (presumed) purpose.

also too many bucket hats

LVMH prize?

damn honestly im going through shows again for stuff to talk about but there really isnt any wow honestly this season fucking sucked lol fashion so not exciting right now i dont know how i used to fill entire threads with posts theres nothing left to talk about

berluti was good i guess
good on vetements for doing more clothes and doing less logos but how far can they blur the line, how far can they push it?
yang li cool idea in theory but too hard to execute in a nuanced way, his execution ended up being too gimmicky and bringing out my least favourite parts of his design language
finally great to see a galliano margiela mens, very curious to see what will arrive in stores
interesting art direction for martine rose, feels like ive been seeing more lookbooks like this (non singular) recently, could maybe see this sort of approach (looks, editorial, campaign, mood, all part of one thing, one whole experience of the brand through all channels) catching on if its a strong enough cultural mood right now idk how many people feel like this but i kind of do

yohji was lame as expected and I feel like he may be close to the end he looked like he had no energy / attitude left in him when he bowed at the end might be overlooking it but who knows

i do have a couple other noteworthy shows to post about later when i have time

dude on the right looks like an attractive version of myself

that mustard/silk bucket hat is so bad. So bad. and you are right in some sense; I usually look at Prada as color genius/forecasters, they are ahead of the game a lot with their color combos. but this collection had soo much black and neutral colors. I admire they are trying something different I guess.

Oh and kudos to Thom Browne, probably the most 'wearable' collection of his to date without feeling any less interesting than his previous ones.

It was actually givenchy that started did the streetwear high fashion shit, not fucking vetements lmao

didn't claim that
I'm saying everyone is just "inspired" (blatantly ripping off) vetements currently and it's tiring

I thought beirendonck was pretty good

...

Why?

wild coat right there

Berluti, Ackermann

Im not saying it's not well made but how can u tell from just looking at pictures or seeing it move

beirendonck is always good

just fuckin awful
shit, disgusting outerwear
good tailoring and colors
meh
awful
qasimi was one of the best

Padded jackets, oversized and comfy. I can get DOWN with this. Rick on the right, I like him playing with colors, not totally shocked by the silhouette

normcore.

Vetements on the left, yw

the fetish elements remind me of moschino
and jeremy scott knocked it out of the park, his work really doesn't speak to me in any way usually and the pop culture thing just misses it's mark but I really liked Moschino this year to my own surprise