Are expensive waxes really worth it? Pic related is like $85. I've seen Chemical Guys sell one for $2,000

Are expensive waxes really worth it? Pic related is like $85. I've seen Chemical Guys sell one for $2,000.

no,

your car can still be destroyed in millisecond by a 17 year old, in a kia, on a $25 cellphone

>justifying not taking care of the largest surface of your vehicle.

Stop.

But no, 10 burgerbuck meguiar's synthetic wax does just fine. By the time you need to reapply, your car will need a good wash anyway.

looked into that son1c company.

holy shit.

>Falling for the buffer jew

Nope.
Luxury car care products are like crack once you start you cant stop.
>I spent like $700 on high end shit years ago
>Was it any better than over the counter retail shit?
>maybe
Find a product that works and you like.

Aaaaand saved

No, they have diminishing returns pretty quickly. $20 is probably the most I'd ever spend on a bottle of wax. I prefer the Meguiar's Gold Class Carnauba wax. Sure, it doesn't last as long as a synthetic wax but nothing else matches the shine of carnauba wax.

>implying you need a buffer

bump

Tbh senpai I just use cheap ass wax from Walmart, works good for me tho
Nice paint jobs take lots of work no wax is gonna be magic.

>tfw I own Dodo Juices Super Natural wax.

>using liquid wax

> Not using Insulator Wax

>mfw bought some shitty Redex wax
>waxed the car ONE time
>half a container spent

That reaction implies you like liquid wax

Soft99 Fusso Coat and Bilt Hamber waxes are god tier, not sure if they are available in the US but they are silly cheap too.

That Sonic wax adds around 10whp

>Are expensive waxes really worth it? Pic related is like $85

No. The basic approach and the set of chemicals and waxes are fairly well established pricewise. You are paying just for the name as well as the desire of the makers to take advantage of wealthy people who have a personal need to drop names of expensive products.

Expensive waxes still need rewaxing around the same time cheaper ones as megiuars Gold Class and turtle wax ICE do. Some items may have more polymer oil, but as you know, oil is not wax and we are talking about wax here. If after one day from waxing your car, your clean dry hand leaves fingerprints, then that is quite a bit of polymer oil. That kind of "wax" you applied is based more upon polymer oil than wax for the shine. Of course, that means when the oil has evaporated or decomposed from the sunlight and environmental exposure, you have less protection than from a thicker hard wax coat product.

There is one other aspect to a shining waxed car. Use of a wax that has thickness to its coat such as carnouba provides a deep shine when viewed up close. The deepness of the shining color can be perceived as compared to the shine from synthetic wax or polymer oil which goes on thinly and which only leaves a thin layer on the paint after wiping off. Some colors such as metallic red, purple, and blue are good at showing deepness of shine while others such as white, yellow, and non-metallic colors do not benefit.

Paying more doesn't always increase the intrinsic quality as in "You paid $10 per pound of 100% beeswax while I paid $300 per pound of 100% beeswax therefore mine is purer". But if your friends are all religiously watch "Keeping Up With the Kardashians", then paying $300 gives you bragging rights with your friends who all have that celebrity price mindset.

O use this shit. It's p. Good

>dat g35
>not even sport package

>Are expensive waxes really worth it?
If you are in a rainy area, there is no point as all waxes and most of the polymer oils fall off the clearcoat.

>The premium luxury paste wax comes sealed in a custom CNC aluminum case with double gasket seal, ensuring an airtight lock to keep the wax fresh in any detailer’s exquisite paste wax collection. Innovate combines premium natural carnauba wax with natural plant extracts, and Carbon Flex coating technology for the perfect wax coat look that lasts and lasts.

See:

>autism
>sonic
poetry

see

Anyone here ever use Turtle Wax Ice?

>Anyone here ever use Turtle Wax Ice?
I am a longtime meguiar's Gold Class user but switched to ICE with the new car in November. I stripped all wax and cleaned it thoroughly then applied the ICE sealant. I let that cure one day and then applied ICE liquid wax. There are both liquid and paste ICE formulas back then, but as of late, I only see liquid being sold.

It is more durable than Gold Class. I simply dust off the car and the shine is back.

ICE wax is nice in that it goes on without leaving hard to clean whitish yellowish residue like Gold Class does. Thus a waxing can be completed fairly quickly. The bottle needs to be shaken frequently as the wax separates fairly quickly. In about 15 minutes you can start to see the separation so clearly for the best mix, I Guess it needs to be reshaken about every 5 minutes. The ICE wax seems to have two curing phases. One is the initial one where you let it dry and then wipe off with a microfiber. The remaining film is sort of still oily and gets fingerprints if you touch it, so don't. That will dry off in the sunlight or another two days inside a garage. I recommend that 2nd curing in the sunlight for a day to forcibly dry off the low vapor point polymer oil. While uncured, it seems easy for rain to remove. Once it gets that 2nd curing, it is on good and lasts hmmm, I'd say, hmmm, about three or more times as long as Gold Class. Meg GC is really wimpy at enduring rain here. I've used it for 15 years so I know and I tried various curing methods to try to make it stick on better to no avail. Some methods resulted in a deeper shine though.

Anyways, Turtle Wax ICE seems pretty good. It is easier to apply than Meg GC because you don't have to be as careful to get it onto other things. It is much easier than Meg GC to remove as it doesn't leave a powdery whitish residue like Meg does. And the shine lasts longer than Meg GC. I like Meg's smell more though. Meg GC smells good too.

>carbon flex coating technology

Lost it

thank you for your insight

The only wax you'll ever need. 1 bottle will last you easily a number of years. Also lasts 3-6 months so that's pretty good!

I just use standard Turtle Wax.

Sue me

>tfw turtlewax spray while it wet wax

something wrong with liquid wax?

i mean that too - is your disdain based in something or is are you just assuming that, because paste wax is harder to use, it must be better?

i use meguiars liquid wax, but i just chose it because it's easy to apply. i'd rather apply liquid wax twice than paste wax once.

I'm still learning with turtle wax ICE to find the best ways to apply it, cure it, and maintain it I just applied the most recent waxing a few days ago. I first washed the car with meguiar's gold class car shampoo and was very gentle with using the microfiber. Instead of a bucket, I used a dispenser sprayer so that I always had a fresh grit-free flow. That helped provide fresh lubrication and cleaning for the microfiber mitt. 2 ounces is enough and is all used up.

Be sure to inspect for water spots before you wax. You don't want to wax over the water spots thus sealing the spots onto your paint. I apply ICE one section at a time inside a closed garage to reduce the amount of gritty dust that settles on the car. Immediately before ICE, I wipe that section with microfiber to remove grit that might have settled. After a section is done, I move to a new section and repeat. After all is done, I let the car sit overnight before wiping off the residue in the morning with soft plushy microfiber. Gentle pressure of folded over (four layers) seems to prevent chance of scratching.

When wiping, I tend to use gentle back and forth swipes - not circular ones. That way, whenever I wash the car and strip most of the wax off, I can start to see the circular scratch marks the dealer detailing prep put in there. BUT I never see any long horizontal or vertical scratch marks from my wiping or buffing which informs me my methods are not damaging the car. It's important if you are new to the process or simply want to validate your methods, that you do something like this in order to prove to yourself your methods are not causing scratches. That's why I choose long straight wipes in order to not be confused with the dealer's damage to my clear coat from a power circular buffer.

See boards . Veeky Forums . org/o/thread/15019267/automotive-detailing

But.. but that shit gives an awful user experience...

what clay bar to buy first time? someone in another thread recommended meguilars

>mfw its real

For wiping, I use the cheap but good orange or blue microfiber towels sold at warehouse shopping club such as Sam's Club. Each is 16 inches square and there are 24 per package. They have a short fiber side and a plushy long fiber side to them. I fold a single towel into four layers for wiping and polishing. I sometimes will fold two towels in half but that is rare. Take care to not wipe with the seamed edges.

I don't use "waffle weave" microfiber towels. They look fancy, but feel "hard" to my fingers compared to the plushy softness of the far cheaper Sam's Club orange/blue towels.

For dusting, I use one of those static dust brushes. It is not microfiber. Almost all stores stopped selling them as microfiber replaced them. But they are great due to their ability of being so light on touch that they not only remove dust/pollen but polish the wax to a great shine. And they clean by twirling them (no washing). Google "homepro static dust brush" for an example (I use a different brand). It's a big furry brush made of a zillion strands of what looks like a thin sheet of plastic cut into 0.75 millimeter wide strips. The one I have is rainbow coloured and not solid blue like the Homepro one.

>I just use standard Turtle Wax.
Please switch to turtle wax ICE which is far better. That old turtle wax is from the 1960's and the company sat on its laurels far too long and only made incremental improvements until their product could no longer be improved. All the other new companies passed them up as the old dinosaur. ICE is quite different and feels more like a polish than a wax. But if you give ICE that 2nd cure as I described, then you will have a wax coating that is more durable than Meg Gold Class. But until it is cured, it is quite removable just like Gold Class. MegGC cures a lot faster but leaves nasty residue so hard to clean from all the trim and fine edges everywhere.

Do you have acid rain or some shit? I haven't had any problems with gold class carnauba. On my Legacy GT it lasted way longer than it should have, about a year and it was still beading almost like it was fresh. Didn't last as long on my dad's Outback XT though (about 7 months though, which is still way longer than it should have, being carnauba wax), which was weird. Maybe it's because I did meguiars clay/ultimate compound/ultimate polish/gold class wax on mine, and skipped the compound on the OBXT since it's 8 years newer and didn't really need it?

perfect

Water beading isn't the correct indicator the wax is still there. My unwaxed clearcoat beads water just fine. On my old 1997 car, the clearcoat still beaded water perfectly too with or without wax.

If the surface is no longer slick but is now sticky to your finger sliding on it, then the sacrificial wax coating is gone.

Only stuff I use on my 74' Subaru. It smells like death so you know it's working!

pottery

It never got sticky/not slick, but that's possibly because I use quik detailer pretty often to remove bird crap and water spots, and I use the meguiars wash and wax car soap.

Expensive waxes are definitely worth it. What people don't realize is it takes very little of it to work.

>anything other than Griot's

>not collinite 845

>collinite 915

I never really believed in wax until I picked some of this up.

>there are people in this thread that don't own random orbitals

Griot's is good but i'm not sure if I will buy the best of show wax again.
>it came with my polisher
My main gripe is it takes a ton of work to remove if you let it dry on the car.
>also stains rubber trim if you are sloppy with taping it off
>Pretty sure its full of fillers

>random orbital
>not a rotary
Hah, bitchnigga.

>Random orbital vs. rotary

Which is better and why?

i found that the most tried and true method for keeping your cars clean is to not drive them so much

also wipe them off after every drive

And they call us autistic...

Funny thing is that some cuck bought it and gave a 5 stars review.

>muh wax in a CNC case
>muh "couldve bought a more than decent turbo but bought a cannof wax instead"

Just dont get fooled with "cleaner" waxes

Meguiars hi tech yellow reporting in

>Funny thing is that some cuck bought it and gave a 5 stars review.
Did he buy it at full price or 99% discount? Did the company pay him off with several boxes of free products? There's lots of fake reviews too including ones where the reviewer got a 99% discount or payola as long as he gave a positive review. Amazon is plagued by fake reviewers and payola reviewers and that is why they put in that confirmed buyer label as an attempt to reduce fake five-star and fake one-star reviews.

>Just dont get fooled with "cleaner" waxes
Thankfully, supermarkets and stores that sell to the casual car owner don't sell "cleaner" waxes. The age of lacquer cars is over due to clearcoat and cleaner waxes unnecessarily thin the clearcoat due to their cutting action from ultra-fine grit which is where they get their "cleaning" action from.

No.

Most over the coubter stuff is trash tier but for the same cost you can obtain a great wax like P21s, Autoglym HD, etc.

Its just gimmicky marketing for ultra premium shit. Definitive Wax and Swizöl sell pure caranuba wax for stupid prices atat are BTFO by a hybrid caranuba polimer.

>I use quik detailer pretty often to remove bird crap and water spots

My red car gets bird crap pretty often from crows, but all the neighboring non-red cars get no crap on them... I am starting to wonder if crows prefer certain color cars (red) to perch on because this pattern holds up when I park at the company lot, store lot, or at home.

>Are expensive waxes really worth it?
>Its just gimmicky marketing for ultra premium shit.
Some snobbish wealthy people need to brag to their friends about high-priced stuff, so those people are the ones that buy such products.

>Definitive Wax and Swizöl sell pure caranuba wax for stupid prices atat are BTFO by a hybrid caranuba polimer.
As you said, the age of simple wax emulsions is long gone. Hybrid mixtures containing a mix of carnauba wax and polymer oils have been the standard for quite awhile now. Some mixtures are mostly fast evaporating and so you have to wipe quickly to remove the wax from trim before it dries and leaves whitish wax behind. Others are more forgiving in their usage by being slower to evaporate such as Meguiar Gold Class. But in the end that also leaves whitish residue if you don't wipe up the excess out of door cracks, seams, and trim. Others such as Turtle Wax ICE opted to have the most forgiving approach by having even more slow to evaporate oils and thus the cleanup is easiest of all at the risk of losing the wax protection if rain removes the wax before all the carrier finishes evaporating as much as a whole day later.

Only so much wax stick to a car's surface. So overuse of wax only results in wastage. To leave the thickest coat of carnauba on the car, a fast drying wax is needed (to save your sanity and patience) such as griot or if you wait 4 hours or more Meg Gold Class. Wipe gently with smooth terry cloth (t-shirt type weave smoothness) to pick up excess. Microfiber is too good at picking up and removes too much. A thick wax coat gives the deepest shine.

rotary is much more aggressive and used to remove scratches and sanding marks, orbital is much less aggressive and used to remove stuff like swirl marks.
Orbital is safe to use for inexperienced people, rotary will tear your fucking paint apart if you're not careful and don't know how to use it.

I use cleaner wax if I'm lazy and don't really care much, it works good for quick jobs.

A bit off topic, but is there anything inherently terrible about using a pressure washer on your car?

I've been trying to rejuvenate the black paint on my car that the previous owner didn't take very good care of. I've clayed, buffed, polished and waxed it to a pretty respectable shine, but black being black, it get's dirty an hour after washing. I had been using a microfiber mitt to hand wash at home, but I have really hard water and no filter so I was getting horrible water spots even when drying with a shammy. Recently I just started going to the car was to use the pressure washer a few times in between the thorough hand washings. I would never touch the car with the nasty brushes they have there, but I use the pressure washer with soap spray to blow all the bugs and dirt off, rinse thoroughly and then spend some time running over it with the 'spot free' rinse. It's been working very nicely for getting the dirt off and leaving the car looking beautiful once it dries, but I don't know if this is going to do more harm than good in the long run.

Nothing wrong with a pressure washer really, the less you touch your paint the better.
Every time you wipe a towel/rag on your shit you're putting tiny scratches into it (swirl marks), so pressure washer is a good idea desu, it might not get everything off, but the more you get off before you touch it with a mitt or whatever you use, the better.
Any dirt on your car will grind into the paint as you're washing it, so getting as much off as possible before you hand wash it is always good.

I have that, not a fan. It's really hard to wipe off.

You sure you're not putting it on too thick?

Thank you senpai. I sometimes I will also pop the hood and low-pressure the engine bay out too (never high pressure in there). Being a newer car wash, I figured they probably filter the water to some degree before it gets to the wands. I had noticed that using a microfiber towel and quick detailer between washes was causing swirls so I'm glad the car wash is a less harmful alternative.

>Wipe gently with smooth terry cloth (t-shirt type weave smoothness) to pick up excess. Microfiber is too good at picking up and removes too much.

I have always used microfiber, you need to use the appropriate towel. Terrycloth and tshirts are rags that I use to clean the undercarrage and would never touch paintwork with.

Rereading the posts you refer to, it seems you missed the point why terry was used instead of microfiber.

I just want to know what the fuck really makes it so great and who really buys it.