Does everything here look to be in order. Like is everything there...

Does everything here look to be in order. Like is everything there. I'm buying this 1966 mustang and I want to make sure this engine has everything it's supposed to have. Any help would be great.

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>buying a 50 year old car
>can't tell this at a glance
You're gonna have a bad time.

It's a 302 v8. Around 5000 miles on it. I don't know if that helps.

It's missing the knudsen valve, but otherwise looks ok. How does it run?

Carbed thread?

I'm not seeing a turbo encapulator either come to think of it. OP this might be a scam.

Hm. How did I miss that? OP, ask when the last time the travolta strut steering bolts were last torqued. If they haven't done that in the last 3000 miles, I'd be wary.

He's selling for $11,000. He said it runs great. I'll post some more pics of the car. Is it worth it?

He's lying. It doesn't even have a headlight fluid reservoir.

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Important questions, OP. What are you going to be doing with this car? What cars have you owned before? What state are you in? What said is very. very true. If you're buying a classic you damn better be ready to wrench it yourself and know every sight sound and smell in that car like your own pulse. There are no dashboard lights to warn you if something is worn out, and no OBD2 port to give you error codes to help you fix things. I almost got a car just like this a couple times before.

Looks like the previous owner might have used a metric screwdriver to service the powerbands. Ask if he converted them to metric to make them easier to replace, since most cars are metric now. That's quite a looker you got there OP.

I plan on learning as I go. Until I know this car inside and out. I'm going to be taking it in to a mechanic for regular check ups.

OP it doesn't even have multi-radian hubs, look at how far the center of the wheels stick out. This POS does not move under its own power if it even runs.

...

You're gonna fuck up a nice classic and go broke doing so.

Don't buy this car, you'll just be digging yourself into a deep money pit.

>Learning as you go on a classic
No. Just no.

That wiring is fucking fucked mate. Big time

Can't i just take it in regularly to a mechanic? Maybe even someone who specializes in classic cars?

Judging by the pic it looks like you're out of the rust belt, which is a good sign desu senpai. Got a second vehicle that'll be your weekday warrior? A first gen Mustang is actually a decent starter classic, super fucking simple design. Have you worked on cars at all before? And by worked on cars that can mean changing your oil and pulling a breakpad out once. And most importantly, do you have friends who are gonna be able to help you? You can't just take this thing to any mechanic for a checkup, you're gonna have to find a classic specialist and pay that premium. Again, how many cars have you gone through, what cars, and how long have you been driving. A 289 with good airflow can and will haul ass hard enough to throw you against the seat, not something to underestimate, so experience with RWD and torque heavy engines is a must.

No you idiot. Buy a 2005+ Mustang GT if you really like the look.

Are you friends with any mechanics?
Do you even know the basics of how a car works?

I can see it now.
>"Mr. Mechanic my car is acting weird and making a weird noise!"
>Okay how is it acting weird and where's the noise coming from
>"I don't know but it isn't working right! Please fix it!"
>Okay so you don't know what the problem actually is? That'll be time for diagnosing the problem, parts, and repair. Please give me $2000, your secondary spark plugs are failing to fire. Causes an unburned air / fuel mixture to get sucked back into the upper coolant hose through the thermostat.

Athat era Mustang is about as simple as cars get
Perfect car to learn to wrench on if you have a workshop manual and more than 60 iq points
Ignore the autists

ignore most of these trolls
11k isnt too bad for mustang notchback. the convertables and fastbacks are worth more even though they use 90% of the same parts this one will be either converted 6 cyilinder to v8 or the 289 died and owner swapped in the 302 windsor v8 (direct swap: bigger bores)
everything for these are availible online
that includes the v8
you can DD these but you will have to fit electronic igntion (and distributor) as well as a after market carborettor based fuel injection.
or put in later model (85+) engine yes will need rewire.
buy a workshop manual and study it so you know where everything goes at the least. and learn from the internet how your car works at the least

>OP has zero experience
>user recommends him a car with a carb and no OBD system

Like I said, as simple as a car can get

Carbs need way more work to deal with than EFI, and OP is the type of idiot who will ignore suspension noises.

I appreciate the help. And I haven't worked on cars before. Would an owners manual for it help a lot?

Everyone has to start somewhere and it's a good starting point
What crawled up your ass? Go back to waxing your 1990 corolla

>mustang
>classic

Pls

Modern mechanics are mostly hopeless due to OBD systems. If it isn't throwing a code they are fucked. Engines are real simple, they require fuel, air, and spark. A Carb is a simple way to learn all about it. Especially if it is still running an old Autolite carb, as they are near indestructible, and have very little that can go wrong with them.

The 60's mustang has always been my dream car. That's why I'm looking at buying it.

OP has stated that he has literally never worked on a car before, and you're suggesting something that's going to need serious mechanical autism to be driven everyday? No, that's fucking idiotic. I learned how I imagine most people here learned, holding the light in the garage at home when younger, progressing to actually working on small engines, and then taking an ASE-level auto course in school. Depending on the carb, it could be fiddly and need futzing with every day. Previous owner may not have restored the suspension fairly well, could need god knows what. OP has never touched a wrench in his life. This is a terrible idea for his sake and for the car's sake.

I'm barely on the surface of knowing the basics. I'm looking at a lot of videos on working with classic cars. I even downloaded the owners manual for it.

OP the fact that you haven't been able to call any of the bullshit jokes in this thread proves your inexperience. You will be the death of this car.

owners manual no. they only tell you how to drive it when it was new.
thats why i said buy a workshop manual and study it.
the only thing you will really need to do is throw out the rubber bushings and put in polyurethane (plastic) as it doesnt flex and warp like rubber does

>recommending poly bushings

ok troll back to your bridge. unlike you this isnt my first rodeo.

Thanks for the help. I'll keep that in mind.

I'm trolling for telling OP NOT to make his classic that he won't have a clue how to maintain into a rattletrap?

Hey, my dream car is a '68 'stang (built up into a rally car though). That's why I'm getting a Jap car to learn on. As much as you want it, get something more reliable. This is starting to sound like your first car, try a modern '05+ GT at that price range or an oldish Japanese coupe, those are more mechanic safe. Don't get that mustang as a first car because it does look like everything is there so it can and will kill you if something goes wrong. That's a solid non collapsing steering column, it'll impale you in an accident. Learn to drive, learn to wrench, THEN see if you still want this. Hey, your tastes might change with new knowledge.

Doesn't look that bad, just make sure to ask when was the last time the muffler bearing has been replaced

It's not impossible, I know a guy who bought a beat up '65 notchback for his first car and daily drives it.

However he was a complete car guy who wasn't fazed by doing his own self-repairing to keep it running, dumped a lot of money into upgrading it.

I have a lot of respect for this car and I don't plan on taking it on many drives for at least the first few months with it. I'll learn everything I should know about how to treat and service a car like this before it becomes my daily driver.

try cj pony parts online as a start.
you are troll for not recomending better parts in his pony.
my first car was a shit box with carbs. and i learned the hard way without a back up car

>taking a classic car to a mechanic you aren't friends with
Pretty much just suicide.
Anyway classics are stupid easy to work on, except you shouldn't be working on one that's already fine.

Book knowledge is one thing, but you don't even have a lot of that. Book knowledge means very little if you can't visualize how an assembly goes together, how to finaggle a bolt into its hole through some ridiculous passage, etc.

Also the fact that you can't pick up on the joke posts in this thread shows how little you know.

>I have a lot of respect for this car and I don't plan on taking it on many drives for at least the first few months
Sounds like you have no respect for the car. The worst thing you can do to a carb'd car is to let it sit.

Holy fuck this board is full of pansies. Buy it OP, learn to drive and work on a classic like every real man has for decades. Ignore the jealous pussies.

He's not going to fucking race it, why use poly instead of fresh rubber?

I haven't replied to them because I know they're fake. I know common sense about cars. Haven't you noticed I've been replying only to those who are trying to help?

If you have the time and drive to really learn what a car this age needs on the regular (you will spend more time under the hood then you plan) then go for it.

It's a nice looking car, just don't try for your DD.

People learned how to wrench through their fathers teaching them, or learning themselves at a young age. OP wants to take it to a fucking mechanic. I'll bet he doesn't even own a basic socket set.

You got the best help you could ask for in

And others learned through their own trial and error. He can buy tools if he doesn't own them. Stop trying to discourage people and fuck off with your fake ass elitism.

>trial and error on a classic
What the absolute fuck?
No, you do this to your weekend Civic.

It's common sense, hardly elitism. Also this

Thanks for the input. And I'm not taking to many risks with this car. That's why I'm going to learn it inside and out before making it my daily driver.

post yfw OP comes back on Veeky Forums in a month asking why is mustang won't start and he says he dindu nuffin to it.

Yes, it's a mustang from the 60s, not a ferrari

>OP halfway disassembles car
>realizes he has no idea what the fuck he's doing
>car sits on blocks forever and nobody buys it because it's disassembled

except he'll be charged as if it was a Ferrari if he has to take it anywhere.
Additionally, NOS parts don't get replenished.

I'm not saying I won't drive it at all. I plan on atleast running the engine at least once a day just for the pure enjoyment of listening to it.

Sure he would bud :^)

Stop listening to the idiots and do what you want

That's exactly what I was planning on doing. Thanks for the input

Plan on dedicating your whole summer and every extra penny you make and then some to this car. And for the love of God please find friends to help you work on it. There's probably a classics club full of Mustang enthusiasts willing to help you, avoid the mechanic. Start working on the suspension, ignition, and exhaust. If you can do these on your own, you're good. Also learn to tune a carburetor. You'll be doing this a lot. Also auto or manual?

...

OP probably doesn't even know what a jet is.

im a ford geek. everything is availbe for 60s mustangs you can rebuild one with a credit card

That's good and all but cars are meant to be driven and shit.
OP here's what i suggest, look on the internet and buy like four sets of complete engine gaskets, and carb rebuild kits. Some place may have them today but not tomorrow or the next day etc and those are items that will need to be replaced one day or another.
Also get familiar with non-ethanol gas unless you want your carbs and fuel lines to rot from the inside out. These engines have fairly mild compression ratios but you should only use mid-grade to be safe. Not that you're required to but if the engine starts knocking there's no sensor to retard the ignition timing for you and if you can audibly hear it knocking, just shut the fucking thing off right away.


>Stop listening to the idiots and do what you want
This is how cars sit in a yard and rust for 20 years then people charge $20K for someone to haul it off

>you can rebuild one with a credit card
no truer words were never said, then the car gets taken in bankruptcy.

It's an auto. Thanks for the help. I bet there is a classics club around me. I see them all the time here

auto will be a c4. plenty of rebuild kits for those

Car shows are a good way to find parts and get help that Veeky Forums (especially) Veeky Forums is too retarded to give.

If you're young get used to being talked down to though.

Thanks for all the info. You might have just saved me a lot of trouble.

not a prob sometimes the internet helps :)

It's nothing OP, congrats on the purchase.

OP here. If I do happen to get this car, I'll post more during this week. I arranged to meet at a firestone to have it checked out tomorrow.

Catstang 2.0 incoming
lulz will be had

Yes.

what year is the motor? what did it come out of?
302 wasnt an option in '66

This will be important when you need a waterpump, or alternator.

or sold for less than he bought it for originally

$11k is half of what a solid 66' sells for these days. there are some red flags here, proceed cautiously

Maybe the owner's wife is being a cunt.

saw a landwhale literally forcing a dude to put the "for sale" sign on a bike two days ago.

or maybe its a cobbled together, full of bondo, piece of shit.

Thanks. I'll ask the seller.

seconding this you might even be able to talk him down because it's not "numbers matching" lol

and going off that, see if you can verify it was an original V8. the I6 to V8 swaps usually require brake/suspension changes. those look like 5 lug wheels - I6 came with four lugs. disc brakes up front?

you can get some info from the data plate and/or the VIN about what it was factory.

>no hyperdrive
>chewie didn't put it back on in the shop
>can't even escape imperial star destroyers

I thought only 64 had an I6 or am i thinking of Corvettes?

OP here. Going to go check it out today. Any important questions I should ask? Also, here's another picture he sent recently.

One more.

Ask him to put in a Toploader without any lip.

>Not that you're required to but if the engine starts knocking there's no sensor to retard the ignition timing for you and if you can audibly hear it knocking, just shut the fucking thing off right away.
or just back out of the throttle

Actually user, it looks like the headlight fluid pump is missing as well.

That won't solve anything.

youtube.com/watch?v=maZyPJIOknE

No wonder it's so cheap.

>let me get this autistic nigger to explain something i don't understand

If you don't understand it just say so. There's no need to be upset. Maybe you were thinking about backfiring or something, i dunno.
Backing off the throttle is like putting a band-aid on a gaping wound, it won't cure engine knock, at the very most, it will prevent it from happening until you hit the throttle again.

>your suggestion won't cure engine knock
>neither will mine but I'm upset you called me out so am moving the goalposts

>Retarding the ignition timing and running premium won't cure knock

What the fuck are you smoking?