/ddt/ DAILY DATSUN THREAD: Working Full Time Takes Your Life Away Edition

>Datsun or early to mid 80's Nii-San

>Datsun questions and answers

>Datsun photos and videos

>Datsun stories and CL finds

Full time work is equally the tits and equally shit. I'm getting maaad money for the Z, but almost no time to work on it or post here (sorry)

POST DATSUNS!

Other urls found in this thread:

youtube.com/watch?v=Jir54ImO-cY
m.summitracing.com/parts/ens-7-18102g?seid=srese1&gclid=CPDOxNWegM0CFQdbfgod5PwKvQ
austin.craigslist.org/cto/5593343056.html
corpuschristi.craigslist.org/cto/5551990448.html
limaohio.craigslist.org/cto/5600149531.html
youtube.com/watch?v=i3ebGPz2ipQ
atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wipermotor/index.htm
lawrence.craigslist.org/cto/5575533119.html
vintageconnections.com/
twitter.com/NSFWRedditVideo

These flares still make my heart go pitter pat

usually not a fan of flares, but those look sick!

Same.
Bolt on flares remind me that every day in thousands of bedrooms across the world, children are getting raped as we speak. Damn flares.

Those metal flares though? They're just dang nice.

hey cucks check this out

Awwww shit yes, this gonna be baller.

What you running for a turbo? Because with the right injectors, turbo and intercooler (and map, obviously) you can run a shit load of power through an RB20DET.

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well, ive never driven a turbo'd car so im going to run the stock rb20 turbo. Then wen I can I'll buy the RB25 turbo and get some deatchworks 900cc injectors and attempt to run E85 if i can (but I'm sure 900 cc's is to small)

900cc is at least a massive upgrade over stock. Go for it.

Also, some inspiration for ya....

youtube.com/watch?v=Jir54ImO-cY

>working full time takes your life away edition

Don't remind me. This Japan trip has been pretty much the worst shit so far with back to back 80 hour weeks.

On the bright side, I only have three days left before I get a week free to go hunt down some Fairlady Z's for you fags

>before I get a week free to go hunt down some Fairlady Z's for you fags
Go to the Nissan museum. Take detailed photos of 240Z police car. Have one of the docents open it up for you so you can take some interior shots as well.

DO IT. The internet severely lacks any kind of photos of that car. Very hard to replicate without any photos.

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tfw u just learned about primadonna Z

so you're on DPAN too huh

DPAN finally has some usefulness...

But nah, the Primadonna Z was OG as FUCK. What I'd give to own one...

Oops I bought a 280z, guess I live here now.

Details, we need details! And photos. Can't forget those.

Do I go for the black bushings, or the red?

m.summitracing.com/parts/ens-7-18102g?seid=srese1&gclid=CPDOxNWegM0CFQdbfgod5PwKvQ

Can anyone tell me what I'd get for this car if I fixed it up even more? I'd check craigslist for restored examples of what I'm lookin for but there are none in my area

austin.craigslist.org/cto/5593343056.html

I flip cars and I'd just paint this and replace whatever was left on it before selling.
Same with this one too actually

corpuschristi.craigslist.org/cto/5551990448.html

Thanks in advance

Rule number one: you don't make money flipping classic cars unless you get them for crazy deals and put little work into them.

I can pour $40,000 into a car and come put with a nice, NICE $15,000 car.

You NEVER get out what you put in.

Those 2+2's aren't worth much, and that's about what they're worth now.

>(You)
You guys are awesome !

limaohio.craigslist.org/cto/5600149531.html
What do you guys think? Bad signs that frame rails need patched

Holy FUCK that is a rust bucket. The 240Z I'm cutting up has WAAAAAY less rust than that thing.

Run. Run away screaming.

yeah im on dpan, probably shouldn't post the picture of my car there so you guys don't know my legit name :/

Lol I'm not fully restoring it, I'm a 19 year old with a hobby. Basically what I do is buy cars that need little to no work and wash and clean them furiously. Then I put them back on Craigslist and sell them for a profit of about 1-3K. People pay a lot more for a clean car that has new tires and a wax because it looks like it was cared for. I've made about 15 grand this way and have only flipped 8 cars so it's going well for me.

I can paint pretty well so I was just asking if it would fetch significantly more if it had fresh paint and other components.

260z resto guy here....

I finished my overhaul on the fuel system. It works amazingly. I ripped out the mechanical pump, the old fuel rails and I trimmed the hard lines. I added a fuse box and redid a bunch of wires to clean things up a tad and ran new 14g wire to a new fuel pump with a 30A automotive relay to control it.

The fuel stays nice and cool, the car has no issues with idling or restarting in hot weather at all!

Combined with all the other modifications I've made, I think she is finally ready to start seeing some track time, she's been pushed hard enough in the canyons where the only next level is a track day.

>Implying any of us give a fuck
With a little bit of work you could find me on there. I really don't care if you guys know my real name, you guys will eventually know anyway.

So you're me (19), but scummy by cleaning and claiming it's "better".

Nope, good luck with that. Those cars all have real rust problems abd painting over it would be bad. Real bad.

Yes, this sound exciting to see! Take some video for us all

lel yeah I know that, I made that reference because they were shitposting about fender flares last week. most people who post on there are kind of retarded but that goes with having almost 20k members in a group.

>frame damage
Run dude, run.

You sound like you may have a good business angle, but trust us, a good cleaning and fresh paint wont do it for these cars. They rust. Bad. and if you don't fix it you could end up endangering someone or yourself.

These cars flip very poorly.

Ayyyyy you finally got a proxy! Yus.

Nah, Veeky Forums is just selective about letting me post. I can post about one or two days out of the week.

>scummy by cleaning and claiming it's "better".

oh boo hoo I'm selling cars that are clean I sure am a scum bag
Anyone can take a car to a mechanic for a look over, I'm not jewing anyone unless the car is a lemon, which I can't prevent

I'm from Texas and the last Z I saw, a friend's 1977 280z, had zero rust and it's not like its hard to look over a car for rust or check if its been in Texas its whole life

I'll trust yalls advice tho and will avoid the Z's since they aren't desirable for some reason. I thought people would love them since the body style is so great and its a drivers car etc etc
Thanks anyways

Gimme a week, I have to arrange transportation and make it clean.

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Im thinking that I wont be able to use my hood with the ebay front facing plenum

So what the hell is this supposed to be?

It's listed as a 75 280z, but can anyone shed some light to the mods?

I'm heading out this weekend to check it out but I just don't want to wait that long.

mods
>gay ass wing
>head light covers

done

Faggot wing, hood louvers, rear window louvers, and painted turbine wheels.

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Don't forget the obligatory V8 swap.

Do you have the CL listing for that or something?

Are those camber plates fabbed in or is it some bolt on kit?

I personally don't see the benefit of running adjustable camber plates, or maybe its the fact of the fabbing work required. Lately I have taken interest into coilovers because they seem perfect for Zs

No, it's just stupidly common in my area.

Supposedly it's
>muh v8 hp
>muh cheap
>muh availability
>muh easy to work on

Which might be true, but I don't understand why you would rip out a perfectly good engine to stuff another that's not even from the same family or company.

those are technotoytuning camber plates. And the reason for running camber plates isn't for CAMBERGANG BRUH its for correcting your camber if its out of the adjustable range

I see, I don't know how to weld to any kind of fab work scares me. Even if I was to pick up a welder I would be afraid of fucking it up. So I'd just pay someone to do it for me

I want to run coilovers on a 280 in the future but I don't want to lose comfort over MUH TRACK suspension setups

you bolt them in

90 is not a desirable max speed

I'm conflicted. Should I stick with my current air dam or should I get a type 1 w/brake vents in black (probably same black as current air dam)

get a full 240z front end convert

i personally really, really, really fucking hate that bumper. Switch it out and get a 240Z front bumper. If you decide to go the 240Z bumper you need 240z turn signals aswell

Yeah I was planning to get a 240 bumper if I got the type 1, I only ask because everyone I've talked to says that they really like my current air dam and I shouldn't switch it. I'm really 50/50 on it personally.

honestly that air dam looks great on a 2+2, with matching body color. I don't know how or why. the stock valence or that specific air dam, and rounded 280Z rear bumper just looks right on 2+2. on a regular Z the ducted/non ducted standard type 1 looks better.

I think it looks ilfitting and tacky in my opinion. But the only air damn I personally like on 240/260/280 is this style.

It's also the kind mine has on it.

Yeah flipping them is very hard. They're desirable atm but not too crazy. The people who want them are in love with them and dump a bunch of money on them because they don't car about resale they love it. Like me. "Why are you putting so much money and time into your car, you're never going to see that money again when you sell it." The thing is, I don't plan to sell it.

>90
dude, even a stock '70 240Z could hit 125.
A '76 280z can hit 135.

Here, an old mid-90's VHS camcorder video of a 240Z going ham on the highway and hitting 125.

youtube.com/watch?v=i3ebGPz2ipQ

240Z fiberglass front bumper + 240Z front air dam with brake vents. That's the only tasteful look.

ah yes, the chin splitter. Not a bad look if you still have your front valance.

I have a quick question for you bros. I have a 280z Ive been daily driving for about 2 years now, and I really want to get some more power out of my stock L28 engine?

I'm sick of everyone at my work or people who approach me at the gas station saying I NEED to swap in an LS1 or throw in a turbo if I want real power. I want to show that the L28 is still a Damn good engine.

Here's just a rough idea I thought of in like 10 minutes (now please excuse me, I am not a mechanic and I don't wrench at all so if I say something that's just stupid, please correct me):

>Add a Header
>cold air intake
>conical air filter (?)
>a better Exhaust

Those are what I thought of after a quick Google search. Will those upgrades improve performance noticeably? are they worth it? Is there anything else you could recommend me?

Some other stuff I thought of but decided it wasn't cost effective for a street car (that I also may eventually try and race because that's a dream of mine). I thought about doing a carbon fiber/fiber glass hood, but that's just way to expensive and I feel like it wouldn't reduce enough weight for a noticeable difference. And a new ignition system, so spark plugs, spark plug wires, and ignition coils. This is probably smart to do, and I want to eventually but I'm thinking performance right now.

I also hear a lot of people say that the easiest way to improve performance is through wieght reduction. My car does feel really heavy when I drive so I think it's a good idea. Are there any ways to achieve this without going a full body carbon fiberr swap or some shit? Hopefully something that won't cost me an arm an a leg?

Thanks ahead of time for any advice or criticism given.

My best advice for you friend is this: replace dual purpose items. IE, something that will improve reliability AND power/reduce weight.

So replace the stock fan up front with some electric fans attached to the radiator; it's a good way to save about 3-5hp, because you're removing parasitic loss.

The cold air intake is... eh, they're not bad, but I truly doubt "mind boggling" differences.

Your biggest change on a budget is going to be better plugs and wires and a hotter ignition coil. This helps a LOT. Not like 10hp lot, like maybe 1-2hp. But the reliability increases and it's more efficient.

And your best bet for "big" power is a mild cam and new valve springs. This changes everything, and can net you 20-40hp depending how crazy you want to go. Add headers and a free flowing exhaust, maybe better injectors, and a clean intake system (clean the MAF, new O2 sensor, new vacuum lines, etc), and you could maybe net 200-210hp at the flywheel, more than enough to be fun.

First time doing bodywork and painting, I'd say I did pretty okay. A few low spots but not really noticeable.

I can't handle this lads, amazing roads out here and all I have is a prius

wet sand and polish it, then show us again.

maaaaaaaan, that view.....

do what said, he speaks the truth. Very good job so far though!

Looks nice, better start cutting it asap though going to be a bitch with that heavy orangepeel if you let it set up for a few weeks

was it humid when you painted?
anyway, yeah looks fine. sanding and buffing can literally fix anything as long as you spray it thick enough. sanding and buffing can make a maaco job look like a show car as long as there's no stripes/drips/overspray to be quite honest family

Thanks for the reply my man.

So besides replacing the fan, what other dual purpose stuff could I replace?

Is there a recommended ignition coil, plugs, and wires I should definatly get?

I'll have to hold off on the cam and springs. Since i most likely won't be doing the work myself, having to pay someone to take out my engine and do work on it would be very costly. (I think?)

Thanks for the help my man! Sorry if I'm asking so many questions.

Is there anything else that you could recommend me to add to the "to do" list?

NGK is good for plugs and wires, and Pertronix makes good coils.

Another good dual purpose item would be an internally regulated 60 amp alternator for a 280ZX; it doesn't have an external ballast to go wrong like the 240-280z, and they give you 20 extra amps.

After that, I'd have to say you could go with an electronic water pump, and even better yet, an electronic fuel pump. That's a must on these cars.

As for the cam, you could totally do it yourself. But id work up to it; it is a lot more involved than an oil change.

Bump with a cool pic of muh datsun.

It was a sweet Cars n' Coffee on sunday. I also was next to a series 1 240z during the event.

Don't forget great additions like a turbo 280zx oil pump upgrade. Not really a power upgrade but a great safety addition to keep your motor healthy.

Niiiiice!

Also a good idea; I've never seen or heard of many oiling issues with stock L-series oil pumps to be honest, but more oil can't hurt.

Decided to take off my air intake grille because I noticed surface rust under it. And found alot. Anyways anyone know what that thing is in the center? My Haynes n Google arnt helping

that's easy surface rust: wire brush off (with a fine wire bristle brush), clean with acetone or denatured alcohol, and paint with acid etching primer. Let it dry for a few days, LIGHTLY sand with 800 grit, then paint with rattle can paint that as closely as possible matches your engine bay paint.

Oh, and that thing? Windshield pisser fluid tank I believe.

I was heavy grade steel wooling it but that will take a year. Just going to use my sander. Have a grinding wheel for my power drill but that broke and need to buy another one. And clean with acetone? All the surface rust things I've searched never mentioned it. I have alot laying around so that's good. And acid etching? What is the difference I just have plain rustoleum automotive primer

using a sander could work as well, just make sure to use the right grit sandpaper. I suggested using the wire brush because it can get into crevices that sandpaper can't. And the acetone or denatured alcohol was just there to degrease the surface before you paint it, dude.

Also acid etching is better in my opinion because it "grabs" the surface of the metal better (again, it literally etches it), and leaves you with a good surface to paint over. But like all primers, you need to cover them with paint, otherwise they'll rust.

sweet thanks for the advice. i figured it out. it was the wiper motor. also figured out why they dont work too. seriously hate who ever owned this car before me. every unnecessary electronics is cut. like the engine bay lamp.

Well dang, I did not know what was the wiper motor! Never dug into the thing to be honest....

good advice: change the wiper motor to Civic wiper motors. They're more powerful, quieter, more reliable and use less electricity. And they actually make a swipe faster than a turtle walks.


atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wipermotor/index.htm

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Well, shit.

Yeaaaaaah fuck that.
Looks like it's time for a harbor freight bolt removal kit, and copius amounts of Liquid Wrench...

I know! Ahah So many broken bolt heads and rusty stripped screws.

I know, trying to pull the quarter panel glass has been a bitch: ALL the screws stripped.

YO guys long time no talk, I checked compression in that L-26 motor i picked up a few weeks back, we are looking at around 60% compression loss.
I also found out that i have a dash harness, and only the engine harness is the one that cut out, i need to find someone with an L-26 harness, ebay is blank, anyone have something sitting around in there garage?

I got my rotisserie back from my buddy, and got that all setup, just need to get the car to the warehouse and start doing work on it.

looks like it's time for a new head gasket (and maybe ARP head bolts while you're at it).

As for the engine harness, you should be able to wire it yourself with the proper gauge wire and connectors. Find a diagram, get cuttin'.

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No go on the museum, sorry L24. The soonest open appointment date is about a week after I leave

Dangit, that sucks. Well, thanks for trying anyway.

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Bumping this shit while at work (I work swings)

>not sure if want
lawrence.craigslist.org/cto/5575533119.html

If it's close to you go look at it, I've seen better deals in our area

i found one on craigslist for 40 bucks shipped with fuse box, the dude might have a 15/16" master cylinder too, my other friend has some 99 4-runner calipers he might pass my way, so it might all start coming together :D

I would have just done a custom one, but the issue is i dont know what type of 14 pin connectors are use on the fucking harness side. unless some1 knows?

these guys would know.

vintageconnections.com/

yeah no, that thing is gonna be rusty as hell, and the trans rebuild kit is NOT $209; that's the price for the four speed kit. That's a five speed, and the five speed syncro is a bitch to find and costs like an extra $80. Worth it, but it costs more than he says.

Now I want a 280ZX.... (but maybe not as low)

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Friend's beautiful and tasteful Z31

that is a very nice Z31, me likey