/POG/ - Singer Edition

>pretty standard pricing for the conditions
I have never seen a complete 912, even if a heavily junked one, for 15k.

Jesus fucking christ, wish I lived in the States, restoring this fucker would be fun.

beverlyhillscarclub.com/1968-porsche-912-coupe-c-5864.htm

Where do you live?

[spoiler]Poortugal[/spoiler]

You can rarely find a slightly functional 944 for less than 10k around here, I'll have to buy mine from Spain since my parents have residence there. Fucked up country for petrolheads.

Oh, I'm living a bit closer to Germoney. Things are looking a bit better on this side but still can't compare to US.

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You know I thought about the 914's and the 911 SC's but was too lazy to research them.

Next time maybe

When was the last time you locked your keys in the car?

New owner of 83' 944 that doesn't run here. I haven't gotten a chance to do much with it other than inspect it. I found some gunk inside of the cap that goes on the ignition coil that I'm not sure if it's bad. I plan on testing the DME relay to make sure it's good as well as replacing my missing fuses in my fuse box. Although most of the missing ones are for my lights and a/c do you think it could affect my motor not starting? I also need to drain and refuel all of my fluids.

What are some other things I can try? For future reference I don't have much experience with cars but I'm not intimated by learning how to work on them.

Pic related is the inside of my ignition coil cover ( I'm not even sure if that's what I should be calling it )

Never, but I did lock myself out of the car when the remote stopped working after 7 days and I found out my door lock is broken

Also I noticed that some wires underneath my dash are like this? I assume that those are burns and that I should replace all of the ones like this?

How can you do that?

I think I remember you from a previous thread. Welcome back.

I would get a new cap and wires for sure. The fuses for your accessories shouldn't affect how the car runs but replace them anyways to see if they work. That dme relay will affect whether the car starts tho. Also, when you crank the car look for the tachometer to bounce while its cranking. If there is no movement you will need 2 new crank reference sensors. Along with the dme relay this causes a lot of the hard to diagnose no-start situations.

right now I'd check for fuel and spark. If you've got fuel when cranking then the dme relay is working. If no spark then look at dizzy, wires, ref sensors, etc.

Good luck!

That's a great price.

poorfag but i love flachbau's in particular

89 bug eye ish carreras are my second favorite

Didn't see this one during my last post. Do they look melted and burnt? The wires on my car under the dash look pretty awful but that's mostly from the tape and adhesives.
Your coil wire concerned me a bit as it looked almost melted, but I'll need to verify what mine looks like so that might be a baseless comment.

I wouldn't worry about those wires just yet.

Pizza Porsche!!!

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My dad just sold his 85 911 turbo look. Got 37 for it. not a real turbo. just the turbo look package from the factory. im going to miss it.

Spotted while watching Narcos

I didn't get a bounce when cranking, where can I purchase new reference sensors?
Thanks appreciate it!

Have a look on google as I swear I saw some recently going for $60 a piece, otherwise it's about $100/per through Lindsey racing, or the typical places, pelican parts etc.

I was also going to say, try just the spark plug/coil wires. The dizzy is a pain but usually pretty reliable so leave that until later to free up $ if you need.

It sucks because they are pricey but once replaced you shouldn't have to worry about them. Be sure to read clarkes garage about the installation. clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/ign-02.htm

We gonna get you runnin' boy

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I can't get this one out of my mind.
I want to buy it but I don't need it.
I don't even "like" Porche.

As long as you've got the cash to work on it I don't see why you shouldn't. The values of anything air cooled are only going up. Body work on that thing would be worth every penny down the road.

Porsche Cayenne 4.8 Turbo.

All possible options, built in april '08, almost 140,000km.

27,500 euros. Why is it so cheap? Is there a hidden cost somewhere?

You don't make any sense. It's time to come out and admit that you like Porsche.

unionjack-vintagecars.com/listing/74-porsche-911-s-coupewith-sunroof/
Are you the Portuguese? If you can afford to restore it then it should have a good value on your side after the restoration.

Do you have an idea how much it would be to replace the coil wire? Or is it possible I could try to clean it with something? Thanks for pointing me in the right direction on where to buy new sensors, I just wasn't sure which place would be reliable to get them from. What was this about a dizzy? I'll try and check how my spark plugs are looking too

>coil wire
Usually they are sold with a set of spark plug wires. I want to say about 80 bucks? Sucks but maybe you can find a cheap set on fleabay.
They can be serviceable but I'm of the opinion that it's a easier and less of a hassle to replace them with new. Mental assurance, if you will
>dizzy
I just meant the distributor cap, they don't fail often.

Is it a bad idea to consider pulling parts from other 944's? I saw a lot of other 944s on Craigslist when I bought mine that were being parted out. If I can test that the parts work, would that be a bad idea?
I have some other questions if you don't mind me asking

No that's a fantastic idea. Just do your best to test stuff out. ive gotten second hand stuff that worked for a bit and then failed so just keep a close eye on whatever you use until you're confident things are working alright. The good thing is that once you do some of these things once you will learn what to look/listen for.

And by all means ask as much as you like. I'm happy to help, whatever I don't know can usually be answered by the other 944 guys here. Rennlist and pelican parts forums also have a ton of useful info.

The reason I said I don't really "like" Porsche is this is the first one that I actually see myself owning. I'm not really a fan and I don't actually know much about them.

I can do the bodywork and painting myself. The body doesn't actually look to bad considering where it came from, and the paint may actually polish up nicely. It doesn't look like it needs a full restoration. The worst part seems to be on the underside, near what I think is the Petrol tank.

I'm not too worried about the cost. I know its worth asking price, but I have no idea how much a restored one goes for.
The mechanical work I can do myself, but I will need an engineer for the engine internals.
If I can get it to start and drive I will do a rolling restoration.
I will have to get an upholsterer for the interior because its too big of a project for me. I'm not experienced enough to mess with all the measuring and cutting off-hand.

I'm not the Portuguese user. I'm the one looking for an 'Adenauer' Mercedes. But I will have similar expenses as the Portugal guy like; getting it to my country, jumping through all the bureaucracy and hoops, and paying the taxes. Then buying parts, and engineering works on the engine.
I can guess that most of the rubber seals, bushings, and weather stripping will need to be replaced.
Maybe the brakes too if its been sitting. The drive shafts are pitted, and the suspension likely dead. Probably the exhaust has holes too and who knows what else.
But sourcing parts shouldn't be much of a problem, right?

One thing don't really like the bumpers. Is there an older bumper I can put on it? Maybe something chrome and smaller? I know the spoiler is iconic but I don't like it either.

Truth is I probably won't buy it, even though I really want to. I have too much things going on right now to commit to anything.

Getting to know it by owning it would be cool.
It looks like it needs to be stripped down. It doesn't look like there's anything much to lose in the interior. Yes, it will need a welding work on the bottom. And it's cool that you can do the body work yourself. You would have to find a local Porsche mechanic for the technical stuff.
>I have no idea how much a restored one goes for.
Then look it up. You probably know mobile.de if you're European.
In my country you don't have to pay the biggest tax if the car is over 25yo.

I agree with the bumpers. I don't like those introverted headlights the most and I don't like that big spoiler if it's not a 930. You can't ruin a car in a condition like this. I would build it in a RS hot rod style if I would have a chance. That would also mean that it wouldn't need a complete interior restoration.

..or maybe I wouldn't make it into RS style cause it's a 1974 (one year too young).

Yeah, the hidden cost is the everything that'll break because Cayennes are pieces of shit

A R32 and a 4S? You lucky nigger

See . Really, on top of being ugly af, it's also the most miserable and fragile modern Porsche in existence. Really not what you'd want for something that is supposedly trying to be an all purposes vehicle.

But a Cayman, a 996 or an old Targa for those monies, user.

One of my other biggest concerns is how many miles I have on the engine, my odometer says 11k but the guy I bought it from told me it must've rolled over 2 or 3 times. There's a huge crack at the bottom of my windshield and my driver side window is broken as well, how much is it typical to get those replaced? My driver side door is a bitch to open but only from the outside. I couldn't really tell why but I think it might be the handle.

Can you elaborate?

I can see Cayennes as cheap as 8k euros. Are they really that horrid?

Pretty sure they're VW Touaregs with a bodykit and a nicer interior.

That still sounds fairly nice, to be perfectly honest.

It explains the maintenance nightmares too.

Ok so I would bet it's 211k but I wouldn't worry too much. You can find whole early engines for under 1k, occasionally under 500 or you can plan on addressing the big jobs on a long term basis. The big jobs, as far as the engine is concerned is
>timing/balance belts, pulleys, seals
>rod bearings
>main bearings (not quite as necessary as rod bearings)
>head gasket
None of these are terribly big or difficult but can be intimidating to a novice.

When you change the oil, check for metal shavings. Check the sump plug as it might be magnetic. This is a pretty good indicator of bearing wear. You could consider getting an oil analysis done but that would be overkill on the first oil change.
Other common issues are typical of high mileage vehicles: clutch, cv's, wheel bearings, suspension components... But fix those as you find them.

If you drive it hard in corners keep your oil full. FULL.

Don't let the car overheat. Usually it's as simple as a faulty fan or a leak.

Don't sweat the windshield, you are lucky to have the early car, so safelite has them for around $230. I know this because I have the exact same issue as you... Previous owner let the wiper arm smack the glass without the wiper attached.

For Late cars the cost is around $700.

For the drivers side door handle/glass, check out those parts cars or your local junkyard. You could even get lucky and get a cheap windshield but that seems like a shitty job, I'd rather pay someone else for that personally.

I'm a bit skeptical of the engines health but the last owner said that the engine ran very well. He told me that there were no problems with the clutch and that the water pump was good as well. I can't remember if he mentioned anything about the belts.

That's good to hear about the windows, I'll be saving all the body work for the end. One of the covers for the rear tail lights is broken, I assume that isn't much to replace them. One last body problem is that there is a small dent about 4 - 7 inches long across, located above one of my rear tires. Also the front seats are worn out along with the dash, but I figure I can get a cover for them. Back seat is in pretty good condition. The hydraulics for the hood are out, any idea how much those cost? W hat are they called? I noticed one of the struts in the front is pretty rusted but the other one seems good at least on the top part. I have koni shocks in the back, not sure which kind.

Here's my plan of action:

>check as many electrical components as I can
>drain all fluids
>replace all fluids
>replace faulty electrical / ignition parts
>replace bad wires
>install all missing fuses / get all the lights to work

Hopefully after all of that I can at least get the car running.

then
>check the belts / water pump
>check anything else that could be wrong with my engine
>take her out for a drive
>check for leaks / any other weird problems while driving

I was wondering if anyone could tell me the name of these gauges, I think they're neat.

This is what my driver side door looks like. The passenger side door is similar.

Not sure what those two small rectangles are supposed to have. Power locks?

I'm guessing the empty panels are where speakers where originally.

Appreciate any info you can give me!

>Hood
They're called Hood Struts and I just saw some listed on google for 15 bucks, lucky day! Again you could probably find them used.

>rear tail light covers
$50 on google, but better im sure with the CL stuff you've found. Or a junkyard.

As far as your plan, everything sounds good to me. If you were in a rush to get it started I would:

>Verify what it is you are NOT getting, fuel or spark (I'm pretty sure it's gonna be no spark)
If you are getting both fuel and spark, stop and do a compression test (you can rent/borrow these from vatozone)

If compression is about even across all cylinders then move on to:

>Replace Speed and reference sensors (what we spoke about above... same part two names)
>replace spark plug wires (including the cap to coil wire from your pic)
>fluid change, basic service (meaning spark plugs if you need them and replace air filter)
>New DME Relay

Then I would go around checking all the other stuff. But really, as long as you take your time going over this stuff you'll do fine. They don't have to be expensive cars, but like it says in the OP the general consensus is to have a sorted car will take you up around the 5k mark. it's up to you how long that takes. Go slow.

Oh and if he did the water pump then odds are he did the belt. just be careful with that. Interference engines can eat valves if they jump timing.

Gauges not sure of brand but it's water temp, oil temp and transmission fluid temp. pretty neat.

In your door those two rectangles are where the power window buttons would go. the bigger opening lower on the door is where the stereo speaker and cover would go.

God bless you man, such a big help. At first I was a bit intimated but now I'm just looking forward to doing all of this.
Thought so, thanks!

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C L E A N

No problem I want to see these cars running not rotting away.

Glorious

>yfw it's balls hot on your day off but you're in the garage

Door locks in a weird place for me (center console) and I only lock it with the key fob. So...never.

It looks like a smiley face

Anyone else go to STPR? A 911 and two 944's were entered. sucked to see charlie's 944 upside down while on transport to another stage. The guy's a local hero pretty much.

>tfw don't even have enough time to work on my car met alone spectate a rally

>Phoenix is averaging 112 already.
Time to be terrified about overheating again.

shits clean AF user, well done

Did you just purchase a 944? Welcome to the club

Fan failures legitimately scare me

Nah that's just a pic I found, but thanks!

I was terrified of overheating as well until i got a new temp gauge sender and a fan thermo switch. Now my fans cut on reliably and my gauge is readying accurately. Cost me maybe $40 and some time.

The test for your fans is easy, just cut on a/c and fans should run on high. this means your relay and fans are fine and the thermoswitch is bad.

How it's possible to lock your keys in?

I was seriously looking to purchase an 07 or 08 997 gt3 but a business opportunity came up and may need the money for that instead.

The GT3 will still be around, and business actually makes you money instead of cars

It's why I bought a house as an investment instead of a 997 Turbo

Whoops left out something key, that test is for when your fans don't come on while driving.

I agree. But I think the 07-08 gt3 market will skyrocket in about 15 years like the 930/993 turbos. They already went up 15-20k these past 2 years...I can only hope they will dip to 80s again in about a year or two after the 991.2 gt3 comes out in manual, so I can pick it up for cheaper.

Originally planned to buy it as a collectors and a weekend fun car, but business first. Hope I'll be in the position to buy one in another year or two if this business opportunity comes to fruitition.

I figured that there are only two ways to do it with my car - when you put them in the boot and close it after locking the doors or you could roll the window down a bit, lock the doors and throw the keys in.

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Bump for Stuttgart

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Hi, new 944 noob here agaim with a couple questions. What could this wire possibly be?

I meant the black wire running parellel to the red wire

Should be the negative for something, with the red as the positive, but it looks like it's not connected

Follow the wires and see where they go

I have some wires in the same place but they are different colors than that. Is it hooked up to your coil?

Still haven't traced mine yet so I'm not much help, but some people add jumpers there to defeat the shitty immobilizer some cars came with.

Do what said, trace it

Oh and having an early car you will find wires there that are unused, the wiring look is the same regardless of options so some things were just left unhooked and tucked away.

Back trace it!

Bumping with chink LEDs

Pls no kill

My dad is lazy and leaves the keys in the ignition so he doesn't need to do the security sequence. I'm not sure how after that.

My dad's. Maybe one day...

security sequence?

You need to lock and unlock the car from the fob before it can start. I'm pretty sure the key needs to be in the ignition and if you remove it, you have to do it again.

>German engineering

why do you have 4 green bins

Door handle was fucked on my 944 and I tried to fix it myself. By accident I made it in such a way that if the door is locked and you pull the lever, it gets stuck and you have to force it back while simultaneously turning the key. I just like to imagine that's an anti-theft feature.

The key lock in the door for my Boxster is busted as well, I can only get in with the remote lock
Cherry on the cake is the brilliant locking system that disables the remote after sitting for 5 days

The turn post is made of plastic and cracks. My Cayman's is broked, but I bought a spare handle with keyhole + the plastic turn post. I'll install it eventually.