Hey Veeky Forums, how is your beading at the moment?

the sad part is that isn't even gravel dust.
they built a landfill couple miles up the road from my neighborhood and the fucking bulldozers and shit drive across the road so it's always covered in dirt and mud. that's basically the main reason I don't even bother washing it.

I don't know how the county lets them get away with.

My corolla doesn't have a clear coat anymore.
Wax does nothing to it.

Bredy gud user

Before or after washing? It's a bit dirty now, so it's not going to bead. After I wash, it'll bead up ok. Large beads though. Klasse SG isn't terribly hydrophobic. What it will do though is last through 6 months of washes.

rainx'd my tires to scoot over puddles

>My corolla doesn't have a clear coat anymore.
You'll have to use a multistage compensation then. You'll have to use a sealant to provide some sort of separation between your paint and the environment. Then on top of the sealant you will use wax.

That's not the proper standard approach though if you are missing the clear coat for awhile. The proper next step is to polish the paint surface with one of the paint polishes. This removes the oxidized paint on the surface and also smooths out the microscopic cracks and crevices. But I am not a fan of removing any paint and out use a stopgap method instead to preserve as much of the paint coat as possible for a proper restoration. That would mean a visit to the paint shop where you get a formal polishing immediately followed by a clear coat. If you had polished and then sealed/waxed, the paint shop's polishing would remove yet more paint.

By polish, I mean using one of the abrasive polishes. This is not the mere dictionary term of "polish" as in making something shiny. A polishing compound in the automotive paint world is a very mild abrasive.

>Wax does nothing to it.
Some waxes will because they have polymer oil. But if the paint is mostly fresh, then wax will work. If the paint is heavily oxidized, then it is so rough that wax fails, so you'd have to use a polishing compound, then a sealant, then a wax. You could skip the sealant, but it's better to do that while you have the fresh paint exposed.

you seem knowledgeable, let me ask you a question.

My car is sun faded on the trunk/roof of the car. I assume thats because the clearcoat is gone and the paint is fading now. Any way to cheaply fix it or is it stuck looking like a shit?

Get you a clay bar (learn how to use it) then some meguiars ultimate compound. It's a lot of elbow grease but it should turn out good.

I am of course assuming you don't have a DA, otherwise you wouldn't be asking this question.

UV from California sun nuked the clear coat.

No biggie, it's a MPG shit box anyways

Oh and I've already tried to polish it out.
Doesn't work.
I know how to DA polish a car, but that rolla has nothing left.

I've done my fair share of painting and polishing.

>image size
:^)

>parking outdoors

>I know how to DA polish a car, but that rolla has nothing left.

Yeah, that's why I hate polishes in general since each time people use polish, it makes their clear coat that much thinner. If there is no clear coat left, that paint gets oxidized.

When clear coat is missing, the only thing left is to either get a cheap clear coat from a discount bodyshop or to semi-ignore the problem and try to get as much out of the remaining life of the paint as you can. That means using a sealant to try to reduce the amount of new oxidation and new chemical damage. After sealant, liquid wax is then used. But using these products means you cross a line.

Remember that the use of sealants and waxes on NON-clearcoated paint usually means the paint has to be removed and the body reprimed to remove the treated surfaces. Well, that is done anyways for a real job. But cutrate "maaco type" shops don't and typically sand a little bit and then simply blast a new coat of paint over the old one. That is not ideal or even good, but it is cheap and fast for them to do. However, sealant and polymer oils will make the paint job not stick as well as they should. After all, to the sealant/wax, the new primer and new paint are the same as contaminants such as bird poop or sap. They don't stick as well to the sealed/waxed surface and can fall off later.

That is why real paint shops tell you not to seal/wax your car before you bring it in for repainting. The silicone and polymer oils make it a problem and have to be removed.

>Any way to cheaply fix it or is it stuck looking like a shit?

The word "cheaply" has too many meanings. To some people here, anything under $2000 is cheap. To others, anything over $200 is expensive. Method #0: I will assume cheap, easy, fast, do it yourself, no tools, no shop, no help as part of your "as cheaply as possible" question.

Those other forum sites dealing with body work typically tell you that if you use a cutrate shop that merely sprays paint, then you should do all the prep work yourself such as sanding, priming, and taping.

Anyways, there's nothing cheap and easy to do other than apply sealant and liquid wax. Simply spraying on clearcoat over oxidized or problem paint is a mistake. That's an oversimplification. On bodyshop forums, clearcoat highlights what is good, but it also brings out the bad. If you think of your uneven paint damage as being similar to stained wood with its mottled varying color parts, applying a urethane clear coat to wood heightens the contrast between different colored sections. Similarly, simply applying clearcoat on damaged paint would protect the existing paint, but also highlight all the mottled slightly differently shaded parts. You'd have a "painted pony" effect that offends the human eye even though the surface is now protected. So that is why you have a big chasm between Method #0 and Method #1 Cheap (sloppy sanding, sloppy bodywork, sloppy priming, sloppy singlecoat overly-thick painting). Method #1 is normally what is considered "cheap", but even that is too expensive here if all you want is stopgap measure.

For Method #0, you'd apply a sealant and then a liquid wax after that. Remember this is a path of no return because the use of these polymers means you have to sand to metal and primer to remove the sealant and silicone oils before you can repaint. Zaino and Turtle Wax ICE have sealants that both work. After sealants are applied and have some time to cure, a liquid wax is used.

*contined from before*
The liquid wax is basically either an emulsion (meguiair's gold class) or suspension (zaino, turtle wax ICE liquid wax). I'm more a fan of the suspension but those require you to shake the bottle a little every five minutes or so. The liquid waxes have a lot of silicone or polymer oils as compared to their paste wax versions. The oils soak into the surface and darken your bare paint colour slightly but it will also even out the color a bit.

The purpose of the sealant here is not to genuinely seal the paint (only a clearcoat genuinely seals the paint) but to provide a more durable chemical agent to reduce the paint oxidation rate since it is exposed. Technically, the sealant is bad for wax jobs as wax jobs stick less well, but you need something to reduce the oxidation rate as you have bare paint exposure. I'm sorry. Sealant is not a cure. It is a stopgap partially protective method when bare paint is exposed. Only a clearcoat will genuinely fully seal the paint off from more damage.

The other part of using liquid wax is that the polymer oils (mostly silicone oil) helps protect the sunblasted paint and increases its durability against further new damage. It's not good from a repainting aspect though as the oil soaking into the paint and primer means you have to sand it off before repainting even with maaco type shops or risk repeeling. So, if you were ever going to repaint with a maaco-type shop, you would not seal or wax as that increases the prep work needed by quite a bit.

The shine from the wax will help hide the damage too.

If the car's surface is physically rough (smooth but slightly powdery finish), it will need some polishing before sealant and wax. If it has bits of clear coat peeling off here and there, well, sealing and waxing is not much good until you even out all that peeling.

Meguiars and turtle wax both make polishing type waxes that have mild abrasives to provide a cutting action to smooth a surface.

Water has beaded on my freshly painted car and my freshly waxed car. It sheets off when I place the open end of a hose close to my paint finish. You sound like a real cunt

My car has Ceramic Pro applied on it, so water just rolls off.

you could polish a car for 30 years twice a year and still never get through the clear.

>Ceramic Pro
nice Chinese shit
Should have gone with Opticoat or Cquartz

pretty okay i guess

2 months old wax

another one

gyeon mohs + booster

is gyeon even available in america?

I would consider it bretty gud

If it woul rain, but it doesn't bone fucking dry

That's a whole lot of words to say you don't know shit. Compounding buff to take the faded shit off and a strong sealant

Nah m8, how much was it? Isn't that quarz based?

its part of a sealant set, comes with a paint cleanser to prepare, the sealant itself and some applying rags. here in germoney its 110eur. the packaging says it should stay for 12months on the paint.

its ceramic based from what i heard

one with a wax, dodo juice supernatural hybrid nano

heres how the paint gets prepared

bascally a few 50/50 pictures

...

what is a legit quick and effective wax? please dont say memeguys, thats just a name you pay for.

where are you from?

get a can of dodo juice supernatural hybrid or meguars. just dont get liquid wax

>what is a legit quick and effective wax?
The answers vary a lot depending on elitists or practical people and sources such as local store or mail order only. Some products only qualify as mail order because some federal safety and marchandising laws apply to items sold in consumer stores but not to mail order only items.

>you could polish a car for 30 years twice a year and still never get through the clear.
Some polishes use that word and have no abrasive content. But I don't think that poster meant to use the word you are using which is why the post sayd abrasive.

>sealant
>here in germoney its 110eur
Too expensive for my car.

maybe get a bottle of dodo juice supernatural then. its 100grams which is roughly 20 coats of wax for your car.
goes for 30eur here in germoney

>thats just a name you pay for.
Pay it.
Or total shit

You shouldn't be using a heavy cutting compound more than like once every 2 years.
If you somehow manage to go through 2-3 coats of clear using nothing but compound and polish you have no one to blame but yourself for being an OCD sperg.

>its 100grams which is roughly 20 coats of wax for your car.
on that guy's bare porous paint, it will be less than 20

you shouldnt use way on damaged paint

always prepare the paint via polishing it like i posted above

wax*

>maybe get a bottle of dodo juice supernatural then. its 100grams which is roughly 20 coats of wax
>you shouldnt use way on damaged paint
>always prepare the paint via polishing it like i posted above

Yes, I like the detailed poster of who talked about polishing with a mild abrasive compound, then sealing it and then applying a wax after it is sealed.

This will last maybe four months. Yes it is that easy to apply. It's a polymer though, not wax.

youtube.com/watch?v=KGNSEr5lX6c

car evo doesnt get wet

To those of you who lost your clear, try Finish Kare 1000p. It's a polymer sealant that does not contain any gloss agents. It makes your car look like it has a fresh coat of clear again. I don't use it much because glossy sealants make my car look shiny even when it's somewhat dirty. The durability for FK1000p is great for a polymer too (5 months or so).

Best wax available.

You're stupid.

Be me; neighbor sees my massive shitbox with newb handiwork done by myself all over; "oh wow, is the water beading? lolololololololol". It literally wouldn't matter.

...

Anyone here glaze their finishes?

Has spray on car wash wax improved in recent years? I might try that next time, but I remember my dad always telling me it's shit.

Yep, shit looks cash. I glaze first then seal, then wax. Probably fucks up the ability for the sealant to stick but still.
I used to use it, it doesn't seem to scratch your car but I'm too paranoid these days. Also now that I've gotten into waxing/sealing shit is useless as it seems to remove wax. I had a couple of spots of bird shit on my car not too long ago, used a waterless wash to get them off. Next time I was washing the car I noticed the water behaviour was all fucked up where I'd used the waterless wash.

> I might try that next time

What is the long term effect of that approach?

If the car is a Garage Queen at home and enjoys covered parking at work, then you could probably have a nice shiny old car. Such a car didn't NEED the protection of wax to get to that age. So, even though your dad told you those old time spray on wash & wax products were shitty, they protect Garage Queens enough.

Does your question mean is it worth replacing hand waxing your car? If you're a car enthusiast, you'll wax even if it's not necessary. As for looks, well, you've seen plenty of cars on the road and can make guesses as to what goes on in their cases.

We've all seen or know of examples where people didn't take care of their cars' paint. So, you do know that taking care of the paint does work and there are plenty of examples of not taking care of paint that resulted in damaged paint if the owner kept the car long enough for the problems to show up.

I've seen older cars with plenty of shine and nice paint. Their owners are probably using hand waxing. Similarly there are lots of _older_ cars that are obviously clean and fairly shiny, which seems to be from those commercial car washes. There are older cars that are clean and shiny but it's clear there doesn't seem to be any depth to the shine. Those are probably the results of spray wash/wax products which do make undamaged clear coats shine. But there is no depth to the shine when you look at them in the sunlight as they idle next to your car at the traffic light.

Then you see those cars with oxidized clear coats which still have clear coats but it's clear the coats are damaged. They are clean and washed and have a little shine due to having a clear coat, but really, the clear coat needs help. These cars are probably the long term result of either spray wash/wax or just the spray wash products. Their clear coats were probably not given the benefit of having a sacrificial wax coat for most of their lives.

darren pls go

>I glaze first then seal, then wax. Probably fucks up the ability for the sealant to stick but still.

All the sealant instructions I've seen say it is to be applied to the paint (ie clearcoat). The one I used said to strip the paint of waxes before applying.

>Brosifine
>You're stupid.
Ahh, you're back with your usual self-important "you're stupid" or "you're dumb" one liner posts where you try to look down on others. As records show, on 2011/08/25, Brosifine claimed to be a mod. moot's assertion was that actual mods never make that claim. Certainly, someone who claims their opinion is correct because they falsely claim they are a mod is misusing that type of authority.

Waxed two weeks ago, beading isn't that good.

Is it because of the state of my cars paint? (25 year old car mostly indoors never waxed)
Is it because of my waxing skills? (cleaned with dish soap, paint restorer, polish, turtle wax, polish?)
Or is it because of my product?

did you polish after waxing? if yes, theres your mistake.

you just removed the wax by polishing

Dish soap was a mistake afaik it strips something like c!ear coat or paint or shit

Maybe you didn't put enough wax idk

>polishing after waxing
Oh bb

>cleaned with dish soap
One of the reasons not to use dish soap (or laundry detergent with cleaning enzymes) is not because of the harshness of the main cleaning ingredient in sucking out the oils that are a part of the clear coat and its flexibility (durability). It is because as part of the unnamed minor surfactant ingredients, those can be cleaning enzymes used to make the food (organic), fats (organic) and grease(organic) lose attachment and fall off the plates (non-organic). This heightens the cleaning ability of the dishwashing detergent because you don't have to squirt much into the sink to get a LOT of cleaning action that is way more than just a tiny amount of soap can normally give.

You don't want these enzymes on your car since your paint is an organic hydrocarbon substance that was UV cured onto a non-organic metal surface. There's just too much similarity to food sticking on a plate. Although you rinse, there can always be some residual enzyme that soaked its way in which will continue to do its thing. Eventually, future car washes will get rid of it.

Another problem is that those detergents stick strongly to organics and are a lot harder to rinse off the car than normal car wash surfactants.

You mentioned turtle wax. I hope it was not that ancient old turtle wax from the 1960's. Technology has come a long ways since then. I have no idea why Turtle Wax still sells ancient stuff except for retro fans or maybe the original owner's son is senile and clinging to the old product.

As for your skills, have no idea what you mean by paint restorer or polish. Those terms are misused a lot to mean different things just like the word "shit". There are polishes that have no wax but just abrade the surface. There are polishes that have no abrasives but just waxlike substances to create a shine. There are things in between too. So the word "polish" shouldn't be used in Veeky Forums except in an academic sense because the meaning is too polluted.

>paint restorer,

Paint restorer is typically a buffing compound. It is abrasive and is used to remove the oxidized surface layer of paint.

With modern clear coats, it is not used anymore. In the old days of car paint where cars, including cadillacs had beautiful thick coats of lacquer paint, waxing was an important thing to do to preserve the paint. The invention of consumer affordable clear coats for auto paint revolutionized car paint and drastically reduced the amount of care needed from the consumer.

But until clear coats, damaged faded paint was removed by applying paint restorer. After it was used, the car would be cleaned off and then waxed. Yes, you washed the car after using paint restorer, right?

Anyways, please don't use paint restorer to grind away your clear coat.

But since you polished the car, don't polish it anymore. Use a sealer followed by a wax. Without going into the more expensive sealants from GerMoney that cost 100 euros or more, you can try something easy to use and cheap such as Turtle Wax ICE sealant followed by Turtle Wax ICE wax. This is the most modern turtle wax and seems to be more durable than Meguiar's Gold Class which was popular for a long time.

>This will last maybe four months.
Waxes don't last more than the next car wash with Meguiars Gold Class Car Wash. Even though it says on the label it leaves wax protection, I can't really notice any after I use it. It seems to remove the wax protection just like any other sudsy car wash.

Well how do I remove the wax after applying before it dries? I used the round sponges in circular motions with little preassure

But isn't dish soap OK if straight after you Polish?

Dilute isopropyl alcohol down to 15%. wipe the car down with that

autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/66369-how-mix-isopropyl-alcohol-inspecting-paint.html

I can tell you're well informed so I'll stick to what you mention in this post.
What should I use to strip the car of any residue or remaining wax before its next wax?

Is the wax in the pic good? It's what I used

Basically all I did was apply this in circular motions with a applicator sponge, wait till kinda dry, un-apply with a different circular sponge in counterclockwise circular motions, the wax made little sprinkles when I buffed it out.

I'm not having much luck on amazon, I'd better try local retailers wich might not have anything better in stock in spain

Thanks for all that info tho. I'll definitely remember all this.

bump for interest

Nope. Get some collinite 845

>Is the wax in the pic good? It's what I used

No, that is the wax that everyone makes fun of not because it is crappy (back when it first came out before clear coats it was good). But the damn turtle wax company sat on its laurels for a long time and didn't advance the technology like other companies did by investing, experimenting, etc. It simply marginally improved its product with new solvents and carriers that became available and sort of barely competed.

Finally, the writing was on the wall. So they came out with Turtle Wax ICE which you can find sold at lots of places such as Wal-Mart in the USA. Wal-Mart owns ASDA in the UK, so I don't know if ASDA would carry it at their store or online shop. The ICE is similar to Meguiar's Ultimate stuff, but Turtle Wax one-upped Meg by also releasing the ICE sealant.

I used the sealant on the new car and it seems to work more or less. It survived normal concentrations of Meguiar gold class wash whereas neither meg gold class wax or ICE wax would. Since you can't tell with sealant, I had not applied it in a trailing side of the front fender and the bottom of the front fascia. With very light buffing with the pressure of a static brush, the shine of the sealed area is slightly greater than the shine of the new clear coat. It has gone thru two meg gold class washes now, so it does seem to have durability so far. How long, I don't know if I have the patience.

The commercial car wash places would strip the wax. When I got the new car, I took it to my automated car wash. It had not scratched my old car, so I was confident with the new car. Otherwise, I would not. Of course, I didn't request any wax. When I got back home, I dusted the car, then used microfiber to remove atmospheric dust on each section right before I applied ICE sealant. Is it worth doing? If you want max shine with ICE. But in practice I think it's best for those who let wax protection lapse, thus revealing the the clear coat.

*continued from before*

For those that don't let their wax totally wear off before they rewax, the sealant is a waste. From my experience with Turtle Wax ICE Sealant:

a. It marginally increases the shine of ICE wax.
b. It makes the ICE wax easily and quickly mostly fall off in just one good hard rain. The sealant does its job. It treated the ICE wax that was layered on top of the sealed surface as it were just another contaminant! And so most of the wax came off in the hard rain but some of the silicon oils remained so it continued to shine a lot if I buffed it with the static brush.

If you lost your clear coat, then use of sealant is necessary as others have posted. The sealant sticks to the paint or clearcoat better than the wax does, so it buys you time between waxing if you happen to let the wax get all worn off.

Since I don't let wax lapse, I will not use sealant. The car already shines too much from ICE as it is. I park it at the public library and people spit on it because it is the shiniest car in the lot and the sun reflects off it like a mirror. So far, it has been spit on at a store parking twice, and spit on once at the library parking lot. It's unfortunate that almost all of our branches of public libraries are populated by homeless. Other states bus their problems to us (dumping) which is unfair. Greenville prison in the carolinas bused two black ex-felons to us as I heard them talking february about what resources to use. I guess the carolinas prefer to spend money on martha's vineyard residents rather than their released prisoner citizens. Bus out all the poor and eventually you only have the well-off left behind. Ruthless. They waxed their problems away and dumped their dirty runoff onto us.

Turtle wax is wal mart tier shit. So is anything Meguiar's Gold Class. Don't buy anything Meguiar's unless it's the professional line with the tan bottle. Pic related.

So many great choices for protecting paint and you all keep talking about crap from Autozone.

>Collinite 855
>Optimum Opti-Seal
>Menzerna Powerlock
>Four Star Ultimate Paint Protection
>Finish Kare 1000P
>Prima Epic, Hydro Seal, Hydro Max
>Sonax Polymer Net Shield

Menzerna Powerlock should be easy to find in Europe since it's a German brand.

>Turtle wax is wal mart tier shit. So is anything Meguiar's Gold Class.

Remember not to eat food because it is sold at wal-mart. Food is plebe tier shit. You must only eat Caviar because it is not sold at wal-mart. Also, do not use any motor oils in your car because they are sold at wal-mart. Mobile 1, Pennzoil, and other synthetic oils are wal-mart tier shit. So is anything quaker state gold bottle class. Don't buy anything unless it is marked professional grade on the wrapper or container. If your kids go to a public school, you must throw them away. You must abandon them because they are now plebe tier shit. Heck, they might even shop at wal-mart for brand name items! That would be terribly non-elite of them.

Car detailing products sold in box stores are meant to give instant gratification to Joe Consumer who hardly knows what he's doing and may or may not good at following directions. They're just meant to make any layman satisfied in the short term.

For instance, Meguiar's Ultimate Polish contains oils that will temporarily fill in and conceal swirls in your paint. This means that Joe Consumer will very satisfied with this amazing polish that easily removed all the swirls in his paint. Then in a few weeks when his Gold Class wax dries up, all of his swirls will be back. On the other hand, Meguiar's #205 polish from their professional line will not conceal swirls at all. The flaws in your paint will not be gone until they're actually polished out. Ultimate Polish you can find at any box store, and products from their professional line like #205 you will not.

They can't sell collinite at wal mart because that stuff is difficult as fuck to buff off if you don't follow the directions and let it dry too long or put it on too thick. It will literally take hours of buffing and harsh detergents to get it off. They can't sell synthetic sealants like Powerlock at wal mart because most of them will stain trim white if you're sloppy with your application.

If it exhibited any beading it wouldn't be my faded, rough single stage paint.

>read this as "breeding"

>consumer level products are shit tier

perhaps people who prefer to use the consumer level products aren't polishing fucking show cars.

i use plebeian tier Nu Polish and it takes like 10 minutes. and my cars always look nice

i'm not taking it to any shows, i'm not a 47 year old boomer

>mfw autists spend hours every week detailing
>mfw autists spend hundreds of dollars per year on fancy soap, expensive polish and gimmicky specialty waxes
>mfw you're still going to get road chips and shopping cart/door dings and you're just going to sperg out about it
>mfw I'll continue using dollar store shampoo to wash my car, nu finish when it needs a polish and turtle wax when it needs a wax
>mfw I'll spend maybe an hour per month washing the outside of it and won't have to shed spergly tears when I get a chip or ding

>tfw your car has paint chips and hail damage
>still looks sexy when it drives by because you don't see minor imperfections while driving

best part is when autist spend all their time on their car and its a buick park avenue or some shit.

>47 year old
>boomer

>I own a shitbox
okay

>I justify wasting sizeable chunks of my life making my paint look perfect by calling other people's cars shitboxes

>boomer

>between 52 and 70

there's some really old and boring 47 year olds. they might as well be boomers

There are some really boring millennials too, what's your point?

so how do i acquire sheeting what brand
>talk of polish and abbrasives and clear coat
and what can be done to fix lets say i fucked up on my econobox and sanded maybe too far down removing a scratch
i don't think i fucked up the clear coat and breached to the paint
but the area is all hazy and solid and shit and i think polish would be the step to make it reflect like the car should but i can't have the polish be abrasive and fuck up the car even more
>should i invest in an orbital?
>how do i get rid of swirl marks?

anybody who takes their car to shows to sit in a lawn chair next to it is a boomer in my book

Same with when they do any road work. Just tear out the fucking asphalt and all of the markings and leave huge holes and cracks everywhere.

Only normie scum don't detail their cars desu.