Stupid questions that don't deserve their own thread/QTDDTOT

Pic related. Thanks m8.

Looks good. One main problem is the intake runner valves fouling up and sticking closed. And also the white paint on this gen mustang was known for peeling. Other than that they're good cars. With that many miles make sure if the clutch cable has been replaced it was replaced with a Ford cable or it will leave you stranded.

Thanks user. I'll be sure to check those things. I guarantee the dealer won't know shit about the clutch cable though, about how difficult/expensive is a replacement?

Can somebody inform me on what this circled doohickey is?

Suck it out with a straw,

it doesnt hurt the teeth or anything right?

Which fluids do I use to change the following:

Transmission fluid
Rear differential (front too?)
Power steering
Brake Fluid

Car is 2013 STI

Ac Dryer probably, depends on where those hoses go.

Do you not have the owners manual? Are you not on a Subaru dedicated forum?

I was actually looking for brand suggestions.

Most people in my local group recommend Amsoil products.

Just seeing what brand is good/bad.

just do like user said and go on a forum. read reviews and opinions. you can always use whatever they use directly from the dealer parts

Will this fuel pump be ok to install in my Forester? Is there anything I need to check other than whether it's mechanical/electrical?

supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Goss-Fuel-Pump-GE044.aspx?pid=340606&menuFrom=50601#Recommendations

I have a 2002 Mustang GT.
The car shakes pretty heavily if I let off the gas quickly in lower gears. Especially when under 2k RPM. I'm thinking it is the engine mounts. Would that be a viable assumption?
Also when I'm reversing, if I don't rev high enough the bitch can shake pretty badly. This might just be a footwork problem, not enough gas or something. But now I'm thinking it might be those motor mounts too.

Would just like some input before I spend $40 for my mechanic to "diagnose" it.

my first car broke down and is essentially totaled.

looking to get something small/gas efficient that still looks nice on a 3-5000 dollar budget

Something manly would be nice.

any ideas?

So my friend who I'm traveling with scheduled a Tesla test drive in London. They didn't ask him about the age and he didn't sign any documents yet. The thing is we're both 18 and he has a drivers licence but on the Tesla website it says that the minimum drivers age is 25 years old. Will he be able to drive the car or no?

Hey Veeky Forums, I've got a 89 Ford Crown Vic with the EFI 5.0L 302cui V8 Windsor engine, and I'm getting a high idle. The car doesn't have a RPM gauge, but based on what I hear, the car is idling between 2-3K, and sometimes the car will pull itself (read: me not giving it gas) up to speeds of 30 mph!

What am I dealing with? How can it be remedied? I've already replaced the air filter, what else do I need to do?

Thanks

The clutch went out on my 93 Toyota truck and I was quoted $1200 parts and labor, not including tax. Although the service advisor emailed me saying "they have a couple discounts they can add". Maybe that's 10% tops? I brought it to the dealership where the previous (and only other) owner had taken it its whole life.

On top of that they are saying it will be over $500 to replace the head light combo switch. The main headlights no longer work and the only way I can drive at night is by holding the switch back to keep the brights on.

In case it isn't completely obvious, I'm clueless about cars. I'm assuming the dealership's prices are inflated. That and being in the SF Bay Area. So my stupid question is where do I go from here? Just call other shops and ask them for a quote for the clutch/combo switch? Is this actually a fair price? Estimates I've looked up online vary a lot.

What are good Veeky Forums related jobs that do not require certifications? I'm a college student and am looking to work ~ 24-30 hrs a week.

Has anyone worked for Discount/Americas Tires?

>small/gas efficient
Geo/Chevy metro
50 mpg, poorman's special, and all around lady killer.
Go for it. Don't be ashamed of the low horsepower, the canadian metro came with a turbo by default, so the parts are there if you want it. Just be warned its fwd so no hektik skidz

had a similar problem with a ford focus.
Check the throttle body, and if your car has one the idle air control valve. If they're gunked up and blackened (lots of carbon on them) clean them off, and see if that fixes your problem. If not, maybe check your pcv hose/valve and make sure they're working properly, as those both will also cause high idle.

>"couple discounts"
they're inflating the price and dropping it to normal to give you "a good deal". Since you're in cali, go find a cheap mexican garage, explain what needs to be done (bring along a translator if needed) and they'll probably be able to do your clutch for like half of that quote. $600 is what I'd aim for, if they quote you higher than $8-900, then walk.

I can't speak for the headlight switch, as electrical gremlins are a pain in the ass, and it'll depend heavily on how much wiring they have to chew up and replace to solve your issues.

>auto job
>no certs
Go find an oil change place like a Valvoline or a Jiffy lube. Nothing spectacular, you'll make maybe $9/hr, but it's a good place to start babby's first maintenance and be paid for it. Also a good way to get your foot in the door. Work there for about 6 months, then transfer to another place such as a dealership, with the experience you've acquired.

I'm sure you could do everything except mounts if you get started. It's not that difficult.

So since they're not going to drop it to $800 I should probably go elsewhere right.

I'll do some more research on the combo switch as well. I've heard bad things about electrical issues, but the interesting thing is that I only started having issues with the lights after I got the head gasket repaired...the brights would come on when I hit a bump or something, and I've have to jostle the switch a bunch of times to turn the brights off. But now the normal lights don't work at all.

Thanks for the advice, I appreciate it

So a little backstory:
>'96 Volvo 850 Turbo
>URO Parts (can't do umlaut) makes unreliable crap
>current (probably original install) coolant hose is ballooning pretty good
>intake hose looks okay
>ya I'm doing the radiator hoses too, but using Rein
>about to go on a 2K mile trip to a desert at mostly 80mph

>and the tl:dr
So my turbo coolant return hose, which is like a 3"x 1/2" piece of tubing, is ballooning. The only replacement i can find anywhere (i.e. the internet and local part shops) that is't a silicon hose kit from IPD is a URO part which I already bought b/c it was $3. I really don't want to toast my turbo with a $3 POS part, and I've seen their quality parts before firsthand. I'm taking a long trip to a hot place for a week at the end of the month; wat do?
I'm not adverse to buying the silicon hose kit, but I was hoping for a install the shit part and hope it don't 'splode on the highway
>spring for quality IPD parts and pay half of what the product is worth in shipping
>find a better parts supplier

sounds likely
>take a 2x4 and your trolley jack
>place under oil pan
>using 2x4 between your oil and and your jack, lift up the engine
>locate engine mounts, inspect
>if bad, replace
don't try this with an aluminum oil pan if you are nub

>can I break the rules because I'm/my friend is a special snowflake?
not bloody like m8 R U 'avin a laugh son?

Asking again since nobody actually answered.

I bought a '93 Chevette a few weeks ago, i want to make a real "on budget" sportscar. I already have polished the engine heads and cleaned the engine itself. So there is a Scania 1113 turbine being selled by a friend of mine. How much can go wrong if i put that truck turnine on a I4 1.8L engine.

Pic is the car.

>not bloody like m8 R U 'avin a laugh son?
That's what I told him lmao, we'll show up anyways, we got nothing to lose.

>what will happen
>if i put a giant ass turbo
>on a GM lawnmower engine?

>yfw 5 hours of redlining later
>the turbo actually spools

Should I buy this for $23k, or spend an extra $10k on a fully-loaded model (the truck right next to it)?

I've test driven a fuckton of SUVs and trucks and narrowed it down to this one.

>gay family auto

> How much can go wrong if i put that truck turnine on a I4 1.8L engine.
literally everything, but it will be fun nonetheless

About the engine mounts. Is it worth trying to do myself if the only thing I've replaced on a car myself are ignition coils and spark plugs lol.
I wouldn't mind taking to the shop, but I fucking work everyday.

I followed a guide to pull my ces codes from my 97 nissan maxima, and it blinks slowly twice, then blinks fast 15 times.

Am I reading it wrong or does that just mean "p215"?

webm related

Don't know if this is a stupid question or not.
I want to paint my seats and was looking for good water based vinyl paints. Was wondering if anyone had any experience/preference with a certain brand.

>should I/ can I do it myself?
it's pretty easy to DIY, but i's also decently cheap to get a mechanic to do. your call, br/o/

>I want to paint my seats
okay.
>water based vinyl paint
doesn't exist; use
>dupli-color vinyl AND fabric spraypaint from O'Reallys
youtube.com/watch?v=HZBq8hfyLQo
>looks like a factory piece

troublecodes.net/nissan/
Click your specific Model/Trim/Engine and it will give you a breakdown of the SPECIFIC codes.
I'm currently brushing up on Datsun's glorious tool free MIL readout, that's bretty cool. Apparently you can clear codes by doing a fancy dance.
I would reccomend going on amazon and getting a Bluetooth OBD2 scanner, because you can use it with TORQUE on an android device and get detailed reports, monitor O2 sensor behavior, A/F mix, etc.

>clear codes with fancy dance
fancy dance confirmed on '91 D21

Thanks homie. Think I'll just take to the mechanic.

it is me
apparently the slow flashes are the first digit, and fast flashes mean following digits, so you had 2 slow, DELAY, 15 fast.

That translates to 215, here is what the site I referenced translates that to evap failure, canister/purge.

Ahh thanks a ton, do you think that's something I should worry about fixing?

Are we having fun yet?

where can I get a carb from an 85 s10 2.8 to swap into my 86? I cant seem to find it anywhere.

It isn't HUGE, but it might be causing rough idling, hard starting, poor MPGs etc.

Alternatively, it might be that you left your gas cap off, or have a damaged gas cap. Cars run the fuel system closed and depend on a controlled pressure.

My recommendation
>Make sure the gas cap is on all the way after making sure it isn't damaged/broken
>Do the fancy dance to reset your code
>Make sure the gas cap seals properly and "Hisses" when you open it after a drive
Drive around and if the code doesn't come back you are good.

Itll make you fail emissions.

>Do the fancy dance to reset your code
what?
>you put your right foot in
>you take your right foot out
>you put your right foot in and shake it all about
oh
for resetting the airbag light:
>open the door
>turn car on
>close and open door 5 times in 7 seconds
>turn car off

heh

So obviously my shocks are fucked. How hard are they to swap out, assuming I have things like a floor jack + jackstands, relevant hand tools, etc? Only thing I don't have are strut compressors. Problem is, googling that gives me 6 or 7 different tools.

Why the FUCK would you want that junky ass Rochester carb?

Just get a 4bbl edelbrock w/ an adapter or something.

You might even need a torch to get them out unless you have a 1/2" impact and a compressor like the other user said. I wouldn't mess around with cheap spring compressors, not worth the risk, see if you can buy the whole strut as an assembly with the spring already on it

More like edelBrick

Nothing beats god tier holley 4 bbl

also checked

>all that rust...

>how hard?
mid tier; struts should come out as a solid unit and then you can rebuild them, which is actually the PITA
>what tools?
if they're struts you need a spring compressor and an impact wrench will be very handy. if they're shocks then hand tools should suffice.
>what do for strut compressors?
well you want a spring compressor, and if you are near an O'Reallys they will rent them to you for free. they say it's a 2 day rental but my local store says they will do it for months as long as the tool is eventually brought back working
>etc?
you should paint those springs if you're resuing them, sand 'em good

>all that rust

Well, It IS a toyota. And I'll probably just get all new shocks assemblies.

sure, I really just want to get that horrible tbi off. which one would you recommend I look for?

that is pretty neat user

Thanks. Its clearly had a hard life, though. Transmission doesn't like to stay in first, swaybars busted (might just yank it off entirely) E-brake cables busted. And the engine leaks oil very slowly from somewhere in the front. Really hoping its just the timing chain cover gasket or something and not a main seal

What could cause my car to completely turn off while driving? I thought the first time that it happened I stalled it but while driving around my neighborhood it turned off like if the battery was removed. I changed radios yesterday from OEM to aftermarket.Could it be the alternator?

kansascity.craigslist.org/cto/5620348154.html

Is this a bad deal?

>o
look at the back left quarter panel right behind the wheel well. There's a bit of rust/bondo. Use it to talk the person down. As long as it runs fine and nothing is leaking, it's a good deal.

However, be worried because the person knows what they've got i.e.
>RARE TO FIND
>RARE CAR

>I really just want to get that horrible tbi off

whats wrong with it? that engine isn't gonna get stronger with a carb. the 2.8 was junk all around.

that being said, you're gonna need the intake manifold off a carbed truck if you REALLY want to go that route.

Can someone explain to me how to Use RTV on exhaust? I'm about to get a new full system and I don't want to re-use the stock gaskets and the place I'm buying from doesn't have all the gaskets.

I'm having a total blank and forgetting the name of of one of my favorite cars. It was a really high end V8 from Europe that was insanely expensive to buy, and even pricier to maintain. The engine had to be placed so far back so the hood could actually meet the design look. It's considered one of the most hideous cars ever and it looks like a cross between a Countach and a Volvo.

I'm going to go check this car out today. It's going to be my first car. What would be a reasonable offer? I'm illiterate when it comes to cars and I don't know anyone that is. Would it be a good idea to ask if I can bring it to a mechanic for a look over?

boston.craigslist.org/sob/ctd/5602161711.html

definitly bring a mechanic over, for any car you check out.

read the sticky for things to look out for (it's in the comments)

also, don't buy it in the same day you look at it (if you decide to buy it). sleep on it.

you could probably get him down to 5000$, maybe even 4,5$, if he's a really shit seller, or you're good (but since it's a dealer, i doubt it).

say you wanted the automatic, or that you liked a diferent collour, or that your wife won't let you go over 5k (even if all of those are lies).

most importantly, feel free to walk out. they want your money more than you want that car.

with all that said. it's a pretty good car. i'd have prefered the manual myself.

TL;DR:
>Most definitly bring a mechanic
>Don't buy it right away, sleep on it
>Haggle for a lower price, lie if necessary
>it's a pretty good car, go for it.

also, never point out things you like about the car, always point out bad things, or things you dislike
>ew, it's FWD, i'd rather have RWD
>ew, it's automatic, i'd rather have the manual
>ew, it's black, i'd rather have bright pink with beige on the inside
>oh my, is that rust
>did someone vomit on the carpet?
>why does the engine sound funny
>etc...

none of this needs to be true, it's just needs to bring the price down.

if you go in a look at the car like OP's mom looks at Chad Thunderloins Dick, the seller will know you're hurting bad for that car, and you'll probably end up paying even more than you were expecting.

it's the old sex saying
act dissenterested in order to get your partner's A game.

im getting my window tinted on my 06 corolla. the problem is the fucking groupon thing doesnt cover the little mini rear windows. the guy says itll be 15 each and i dont feel like pay for it right now, or at all even. will it look retarded if i never get it it done. or just suck it up. groupon discount is 50%. it will be just 40% if i get those done.

Is this a good car? Audi 90 B2.
Around 500€ for beater with leather interior and a 5 cylinder sounds good to me

Get the copper blend rtv, use it like you would normal rtv

Does anyone have a cadillac seville sts 1998 repair manual pdf and is willing to share it?

Who is alphonse?

A faggot who spams the board late at night to slide all the threads in to the archive.

That's deliciously evil

No, it's just autism

Is this accurate?

I'm assuming the tube itself will have fairly simple instructions on it? This will be my first time doing something like this, I'm trying to make sure I don't fuck up my entire exhaust

Hey Veeky Forums This is my first time changing the oil. It's a 2003 Ford Focus, manual. Is this thing where the oil is? It has a knob for a socket wrench on the other side. I also can't find the oil filter.

Other side.

Say I have a nice car that I daily in good weather, but refuse to take it out during the winter, what's a car literally built for snowy weather and road salt?

Jesus Christ just Google it youre on the internet. Also probably. there's a chance thats the transmission fluid pan but I dunno. The filters usually higher up in between stuff.

Audis with quatro drivetrains

the oil pan will be on the passenger size of the car assuming its LHD, the driver side pan is the oil pan. on a Ford Focus the oil filter should be on the front or front-passenger side of the engine, it wont be too hard to change

get the orange high-temperature silicone, glob it where the flanges meet, bolt it up, let it dry for a hour, start the car.

Subaru's go through snow awesome but they rust pretty bad too.

Just get a Camry unless you're in Alaska.

This might actually require a thread but oh well,
I'm looking to buy a sports car for around 10-15k euros but can't decide on what to get.
I've seen some nice 350z's or older bmw's but i can't make up my mind.
What do you guys suggest?

i know you said car but just get a old 4x4 truck, so much easier in winter. ground clearance for anything, can blow over snow drifts and obstacles, etc. late 80s early 90s Toyota 4x4 or Nissan KingCab 4x4 isnt more than a few grand

what is a good cheap tire for driving normally

Same poster, so I called around and of the ten places I called the lowest estimate I got was $800 to replace the clutch. Maybe i'm still getting shafted, but it seems like Bay Area prices are just inflated.

This is with just resurfacing the flywheel, if it needs a new one it's $90 extra. Is it smart to just get a new one now to avoid problems down the line, or does it just depends on the condition of the existing one? I'm reading about it online but the response seems mixed. I'd rather spend the money now than just delay it and have to spend more on labor later, if it's a good idea. I emailed the first place about its condition.

First service center said they typically resurface and replacing is unnecessary, and that mine doesn't need replacing...are they still trying to dick me somehow?

Z desu

get them at discounttiredirect.com

My shitbox 92 MX-6 got towed, and in the process of towing they ripped apart the exhaust and left it sounding like shit.

What recourse do I have beyond filing a claim, and how fucked am I?

My plastic hubcaps are peeling and I'd like to paint them so they look nice again. I'm pretty comfortable with prepping and priming, but I don't know shit about making paint look good and lay flat. I do have a large compressor and spray gun.

Any tips on paint to use and methods to apply it? Should I use clear coat and if so what kind?

Would I be better off doing the prepping/priming myself and sending the hubcaps to Maaco or somewhere for painting?

pic unrelated