getting new single subwoofer setup and this amp is sketchy. also general car audio thread.
I'm planning to get this power acoustik bamf2600/1d amp and a soundstream t5.122 subwoofer I trust this sub to put out a solid 1000watts at 2 ohms but this amp says it can do 1100w rms at 2 ohms and I wanna know if anyone knows thats complete bullshit coming from this company or not. my car is wired in a pretty thin guage but i can upgrade that if i need to. my budget is 300$ and i can go over a bit.
tldr: is this amp actually going to get at least 1000 watts like it says? ive been looking only at ohm ratings and rms wattage. max wattage ratings are going to give me a stroke if i see another
this is the sub, going with a single 12" in a box. most likely vented cause I like to bean out sometimes.
Adam Ross
No. 90% of amp ratings are overrated and with stock electrical its hard to top 1500w on most vehicles. That being said, it should be plenty of power, i run a 75w rms x2 amp on two 10s and its plenty loud.
Nicholas Ortiz
yeah I assume the rms numbers are a bit more accurate though cause the max of these are 2600 for the amp and 2000 for the sub. my main concern is if this amp is actually a lot less than 1100 and might be underpowered for the soundstream sub.
I wasnt aware of that 1500w detail you mentioned, if both the sub and amp will be around 600-800 or so then I assume theyll work together well enough
Alexander Myers
Buy used JL. It's easy to find and will actually put out what it's supposed to. Also soundstream is a shit and if you actually put the power it is supposedly rated for, it'll blow
John Hughes
Generally getting a more powerful amp doesnt hurt anything as long as you dont go crazy with the volume. Go for class d amps and look at the input wire gauge and fuse size on the amp as they are a good indication of power. I ran two cheap 15s rated at about 200-500rms i think on a bamf5500 amp claiming 5500w and did the "big 3" (google it) upgrade and also boosted alternator voltage a bit and it was pretty good, didnt blow anything, no overheating and little to no voltage drop since the amp probably never actually put out above 1000w
Liam Bailey
also this was in a Mitsubishi vehicle, and when i was looking over the schematics of how the alternator worked, i found a wire that allowed the ecu to lower alternator output (to prevent rpm drops on sudden loads such as turning on headlights), and after i removed that wire going to the ecu it eliminated most voltage drop issues at the cost of some rpm drop (50-150rpm at idle) when bass hit. Your vehicle may have something similar that you could do that could help it cope with increased electrical load.
Henry Gray
note taken, ill ditch the soundstream probably and find something with around 800w, so JL is an option, i'll likely stick with the amp just cause it can do 2 ohms like i've been looking for. I expect it to do around 900 based on all its ratings and such, do you think the amp will be able to use an 800w rms sub (likely a more trusted brand than soundstream) to its full potential? I intend to get an amp capable of pushing the sub. I just want to make sure the amp has more or equal wattage with the sub.
Chase Rogers
I'll look into it if I get any electrical issues. i ran two really low power 12" subs from a """1200watt""" set of west coast customs i got for 90$ on ebay lmao. I have a 1994 volvo wagon and from what Ive heard this amp will do 1000watts at most. should be okay
Evan King
>I trust this sub to put out a solid 1000watts at 2 ohms but this amp says it can do 1100w rms at 2 ohms
Chinese made shit always has ultra high impossible values. And when it says RMS they are really laying on the lies thick. RMS is not peak power. It is the continuous average power.
So, let's say your car is powering the lower value of 1000 watts continuous. At 12.6 volts, that is over 79 amperes of continuous current. care fuses have triggered to prevent your wires from melting. But since it's more likely drawing from your alternator's 13.3 volts, that is 75 amperes which means your alternator is ruined.
>yeah I assume the rms numbers are a bit more accurate though cause the max of these are 2600 for the amp and 2000 for the sub 2500 watts. hmm. Made in China
Tyler Smith
it's laughable how many lies you have to sift through when buying any set of subwoofers it seems like.
I'm starting to get this more so thanks for that. I assumed you could trust rms ratings from a reputable site like sonicelectronix but shit I suppose not.
realistically, what sort of wattage do you think this amp will put out and will it be able to even fully power a 600watt or 800watt rockford fosgate sub? i'm trying to get a 2 ohm sub but might have to go to 4 ohms instead. the amp is rated for both.
Camden Davis
I remember Soundstream being really good once upon a time. Not sure about Power Acoustik
Parker Foster
think i'll be switching to a hifonics amp and a rockford fosgate sub. downgrade in the wattage it says but I think they'll be closer to what is actually is rated for. I'll put the model names up in a second
Logan Price
That ensemble sounds fine, though you would be better off with a single 15 or dual 10s. Single 12's have always been my least favorite. That being said the biggest factor in how well your system performs is the actual install.
These are super low rent ($70 taxes in) lanzar max15d in 3.2cuft tuned to 60hz. Powered them with a dei1100d 160amp alternator 00awg. Built the trunk to handle bass. I was able to do 148db on the old audiocontrol meter couldnt beak 140 on the termlab one.
Ryder Taylor
switched to a Hifonics HFi1000.1D amp and this sub - Rockford Fosgate Punch P3D2-12
well shit man I could get a 15" I guess.. have any brand or specific sub you'd recommend? I'm aiming for around 600-700 true RMS at 2 ohms since this amp has enough reviews to make me believe it can fully support something labeled 1000w rms
Tyler James
Digital designs if you can find one RE is good ive had zero luck with rockford drivers
There's also the situation of too much power for the car. Someone put a subwoofer in the trunk and probably had the tube for it then piped into the cabin. While that is fine and good, what the driver probably didn't realize is that over time, the rear trunk lid was shaking itself a lot. Some people in the sidewalk crowd even pointed at that shaking lid in disbelief. I wonder if the car owner even knew what his subwoofer was doing to his car?
One day, I was walking by on the sidewalk in the downtown of one suburb city. A melanin-enriched group had their windows down and entertained us with their thumpin. The weird (or humorous) part was how much their trunk lid was vibrating up and down sometimes. It was almost like a resonant frequency hit it and made it move half an inch or more up and down. Is that good for the lid? Who knows?
It's a good thing subwoofers are not mounted to gas tanks. Or they'd shake a hole in them.
Jaxson Perry
oh shit I actually have that exact same RE sub in my cart right now. has decent enough reviews i might just go for it. thinking sealed enclosure but not 100% sure yet. the hifonics amp and this sub seem like theyd work well enough as a pair though. both at 2 ohms and the amp with a bit more power than the sub.
Jayden Cooper
That's what sound deadening is for
Nathaniel Nguyen
OP here, I've had my experiences with that in the past with my weak pair of 12" subs, I drive a wagon so all that rattles is my roof rack (i can take that off) and the license plate which I already put some shit on to reduce the rattling. there are definitely some frequencies that will make shit rattle more than others. basically any moderately high frequency will let you know what you need to tape down.
Gabriel Wilson
Since this is a general car audio thread, I'll state my problem: >Own Rsx Type s >Still using stock speakers >Need new ones and sub >Any suggestions?
Isaiah Gonzalez
I got a new stereo and I was fucking with it for 20min in the car with engine off and my battery died. Is it possible that the stereo is drawing too much power? Might also be that these guys had the car on for an hour installing my stereo w/engine off before I got there...
Austin White
If you have a normal small battery, it can die fast. I've always replaced the OEM battery with the biggest battery possible. Batteries only last so many years before they don't hold as much of a charge as they used to or hold a charge for a long time. So maybe your battery is in that area where it is still good but starting to wear out.
You know the size of your battery. So take 90% of that as the range you can deplete a new battery without sulfation. Remember that as the battery gets older, the range you can go gets higher and higher before sulfation occurs. So an older battery with normal wear and tear might let you go to 80% and then 70% and then 60% but by then most people notice their battery is less reliable.
Knowing or guessing your capacity you can figure out how long you can go. Remember 200 watts means: 200 watts divided by 12.6 volts = 15.8 amps
15.8 amperes is a lot of load on any car battery but if the battery is older and not one of those max-sized ones, it can run down. I don't know what size or condition your battery is in. You've seen cheap headunits whose max power is 30W without subwoofer and they can get pretty loud. I bet most of your power draw is for that subwoofer as they are the least efficient speaker in your car on a ampere per sound level basis. It takes a lot of energy to make all that metal shake and to sharply thump your chest with that great tight bass physically muscular sound.
Camden Green
At least you have a battery charger, right? All the new ones have a digital gauge to measure the battery charge and voltage. So in the future, you can charge the battery, run the stereo for 20 minutes, then put the charger back on (in non charging mode) to see what percentage charge the battery has dropped down.
Jordan Morgan
Are there any decent but inexpensive speakers that Veeky Forums recommends?
I'm in a convertible so I just want to replace the ruined factory speakers and want the ability to hear my music
Dylan Thompson
>Are there any decent but inexpensive speakers that Veeky Forums recommends?
The only answer for such a generic question is "any good name brand speaker". We don't even know how many speakers you need. Some cars have separated speakers at the front where the treble is at a different physical location than the midrange. Etcetera.
As for recommendations, people don't know what to say without ending up giving you the wrong advice since they don't know your car and its speaker locations. The types of speakers one gets depends on where they are installed, how much room you have, whether or not you have space behind the speaker, and how much space you have to install them of course.
For example, some speakers are made for flush mounts and some are not. Some speakers like to have a box enclosure behind them.
Person #X: I have a convertible but won't tell you more, what good but inexpensive speakers do you recommend? Go to a good sound shop and listen to good speakers. That sets the baseline example. Now go to a cheap discount place and listen. If they don't meet expectation with the other shop, then you know those speakers are less good, but decent enough for the price.
