How do you choose an engine oil? Is it just a case of "more expensive is better"?

Cant really go wrong here.

>No mention of Redline
>Amsoil
>Or Motul

see

Ah, I missed that.
>Amsoil
>Scam

I use Castrol gtx high mileage in my dad's Ranger and my civic. 223k and 173k miles respectively. Synthetic blend.

well the bearings are not magnetic, but most shafts are
so...

The oil uses magnetic particles to adhere better to critical surfaces.

No it doesn't you gimp. It's called marketing. And you are the lowest common denominator they are marketing it to.

bobistheoilguy.com for oil research

PQIA for virgin oil analysis

pennzoil is the best thing out there on the market, low volatility and tons of anti wear additive (molybendum)

pic related

>How do you choose an engine oil? Is it just a case of "more expensive is better"?
Mobil-1 0W-40 Euro formula because it meets MB Spec 229.5, and I can get it at Wal-Mart for about $24/5 qt.

My Jeep like the 10w40 Diesel mobil oil, no synthetic,

>How do you choose an engine oil?
Look up the past oil threads that appeared in Veeky Forums as the advice and questions were all in there already. It's too bad the thread spammers and trollers make lots of stupid threads to shove informative threads off Veeky Forums.

In my families and my own daily drivers I use supertech from walmart. can't beat $2 a quart.

valvoline vr-1 and torco gear/trans oil in my street/track car.

Clean cheap oil is going to do a better job at lubrication than expensive dirty oil. Depends how many fucks you give about your vehicle. I wouldn't go putting dollar store oil in a brand new car that's for sure.

On a side note...

What's with people putting diesel oil like rotella in their gas engines? Does it really work better, or???

Rotella 15w-40
I use it in everything

engine oil?
motul or liquid moly
/thread

The additive package is better for older engines with flat tappets. If you have roller lifters then you don't need to worry.

I can't for sure tell you the pros/cons of diesel oil in a petrol engine but...
My Dodge truck had a valvetrain tick, I did an oil change with 20w-50 and it quit.
My Lexus consumed about 2.5 quarts of oil a week, I started using 15w-40 and it only uses about 1/2 a quart a week now.

It's only anecdotal but take with that what you will

>only uses about 1/2 a quart a week now.
holy fuck dude

>engine burns huge amount of oil
>giving others advice

>How do you choose an engine oil? Is it just a case of "more expensive is better"?

5 quart jugs of synthetic oil are cheap at wal-mart. Mobil1 FullSynth is $22.97 at my local store this past week. So, there was the guy that paid $2.xx per quart of SuperTech (wal-mart's plush house brand) conventional oil which makes it $10 per jug, but the SuperTech Full Synthetic is $17 per jug. I think for the $7 more, he would have had a great deal.

.

The archived engine oil thread for conventional versus synthetic oil is at:

archive.4plebs.org/o/thread/14985876/

.

One has to pay attention to how oil is used in your engine too. For example, some engines have a lot of start and stops because they are either hybrid or ECO type engines. You will want not just an oil that is good with a lot of start/stop activity, but a filter that withstands constant pressure spikes. If you use a regular filter (purolator or low end fram), they may have tears. Purolator had been getting that problem lately. Fram Ultra filters have a metal mesh surrounding the filter and that mesh even goes into the pleats with the filter media. The mesh seems to prevent tear and blow through from pressure spikes especially from ECO engines that were stopped at a traffic light, but the driver has just gunned the engine. At that moment, not only did the ECO engine just start, but it is also accelerating hard due to the driver having a jackrabbit start.

Picture: Seeing a foamy beer mug on a car makes me feel like the occupant drinks and drives (at the same time). Do you 5W20 Amsoil? No, 16-proof Asahi desu.

I've been using Mobile 1 Delvac full synth 0w-40 diesel in a Ford 4.0 gas for years now. Started at 40,000km now at 200,000. no issues.

based trips
I had bought a quart of pennzoil platinum for like 25.50 at wallyworld a couple weeks ago, and was curious as to if it was any good.

I guess all you need are filter changes. No need to visit the proverbial JiffyLube.

What caused your Lexus to get up to using 2.5 quarts per week? A broken piston ring? Was that change gradual over time? Or was it a sudden change in oil consumption?

Since 2.5 quarts per week would leave a lake on the floor, it wasn't an external oil leak.

>I had bought a quart of pennzoil platinum for like 25.50 at wallyworld a couple weeks ago, and was curious as to if it was any good.

Those are conventional oils in that picture and at that site URL. Nothing for your Pennzoil Platinum synthetic. The archive thread at has a URL to a oil database though.

Easy

Thicker the oil, the more your engine parts lasts
The thinner the oil, more gas mileage

So I just need to get oil that's not too thick and not too thin to get the best of both worlds. Problem solved. Crisis averted. Drinks are on me.

That way of thinking is from the old world.

Today's engine bearings and modern journals are made to have lubrication occur from hydrostatic separation of the surfaces because oil is incompressible but will slowly squeeze out under the pressure. But before that happens, the oil pressure causes new oil to get into the space due to movement of the surfaces.

The key thing in modern cars is to have oil flow. So too thick a vicosity impedes oil flow.

540ratblog.wordpress.com/

Going from thin as piss 5w-30 to 15w-40, that's why.

>98. 0W40 Mobil 1, API SN, European Formula, made in the U.S., synthetic = 82,644 psi
>zinc = TBD
>phos = TBD
>moly = TBD

worthless!

540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/

What do you guys think of this? guy claims all that really matters is psi loading and shearing.

I did a bunch of research on oil and oil filters on sites like bobistheoilguy. Ended up using Mobil 1 extended performance full synthetic and the Mobil 1 M1-110 filter on my Accord. I'm pretty happy so far

>What do you guys think of this? guy claims all that really matters is psi loading and shearing.

The info varies in value based upon what you know about your engine and how it uses oil. Most of the usage importance lies with bearing where PSI is important. But there are also gears, rollers, sleeves, and impact areas (older cam design). Only you know the combination percentages of these items for your car and how much force is applied to them based on the design. If you don't know, then all you can go on is something like his PSI and shearing because without other knowledge, those are the only numbers that matter to you at that time. As you know more about your car, you can then decide if those numbers are insufficient or inappropriate.

Always used Quaker State in my cars. That shit is good on the engine. I did also try the Castrol gtx, but mostly I use it if I get a car with higher mileage, just to kinda wash out the old oil over a couple of hundred miles. And then I put in the Quaker State.

yeah, check out bobistheoilguy.com

they have good blogs and discussion

at the end of the day, you can't go wrong with anything that has a SN / API cert on it but some oils are clearly better than others, pennzoil being the current choice of bob is the oil guy shitposters (this is because of its low volatility and high amount of molybendum)

> Look at fully synthetic oils on website
> Check price/litre
> Buy cheapest name-branded oil

My car is still fairly new, so it gets fancy name-brand oil. My old car was old, so it got cheap supermarket own-brand oil because there was no fucking point pouring anything expensive in there.

Castrol GTX 20-50w

i use it for anything, and so far nothing has seized, so it must be alright

I usually pick whatever is cheapest. Oil is oil.
It's the additive package that matters. As long as you change your oil regularly enough it doesn't really matter.
I do try to go full synthetic though.

Whichever full synthetic of Castrol Edge, Pennzoil Platinum, or Mobil1 is on sale at the parts stores with a GOOD filter(read; not K&N) at the time.

yup

bafflingly expensive obscure european oil brands are always the best

>falling for the oil meme
makes me laugh everytime

Golf 3 1.9 TD used to chug Castrol oil, switched to Mobil 1, been an absolute dream since, 500k km on it.
Went with Mobil 1 505.01 for the Mk 4 PD TDI. Works fine so far.

That article is worded as if billy mays wrote it

Titan GT1 by Fuchs
Those people don't make fuel or other chemicals. They make only lubricants.
I didn't know about them until we start using there grease in pretty much every fucking industrial gears in my work place. They just work and outlast every other grease we used to use (renolit lx c2)

Who the fuck uses conventional oil now unless you have a shit rotary

>Who the fuck uses conventional oil now unless you have a shit rotary

Lots of people buy the conventional oil jugs at walmart for $11 to $13 for FIVE quarts and it is SAE rated oil. So it meets specifications and is usa made so no worries about fake chinese certifications. That amount of money is actually significant to a lot of people. The wealth gap is getting larger all the time too thus exacerbating the problem.

It's called MAGNATEC NOT MAGNETIC

You bunch of cocks. It's just a play on words because they claim it clings to your engine parts.

GET IT?

>It's just a play on words because they claim it clings to your engine parts.

Shouldn't Castrol oil make an oil leak on your garage floor? It should flow around your oil seals since it's owned by BP.

my car uses no oil anyway

nearly every tractor trailer

you know the ones that haul shit tons of stuff and last a million miles regularly

do you drive a saab?

lmao yes actually
how did you guess
2.0 NA 9000

they do weird shit

hah yep
car is slow as balls but it's so comfy i love it

My W126 use mineral oil.
Because you put synthetic oil in your 2001 Corolla doesnt mean every one do it.
Fagget

It says magnatec molecules right on the label.

>2.0 NA 9000
2.3 turbo 9000, 900 turbo, and 9-3 2.0 turbo.

Everything turbo gets rotella t-6. Jeep gets Valvoline maxlife as it leaks a little.

For my old truck I just grab what ever is on sale at advance...it leaks and burn oil fairly fast so it gets changed about every 2kmi also I avoid store brands....bought high milage synthetic blend by accident didn't bother checking when oil and filter was 17$ guess I'll see how it goes

Liquimoly 10w60 and a Mahle filter.

One out of a few companies to produce a 10w60 formula.

Rod bearings and vanos is too delicate to use a weight that differs from the one used by BMW.

But does it have electrolytes?

And Vitamins B6 and B12?

Just use the house oil from my local parts store because I get it like 2$ a litre, fully synthetic, use an OEM filter and my entire oil change costs me like 15$. May start using some high mileage, or even good oil soon, just need a better paying job.

>But does it have electrolytes?
Coolant is an electrolyte. But you don't want any, eh?

Yeah, MAGNATEC, not MAGNETIC.

Fucking magnats, how do they work?

taste
If its tasty, car will like it

Whats the difference between fully synthetic, mineral and semi synthetic oil? Which one should one use for what applications?

Type that question into google and it will tell you. Google seems to have adapted many of the language features of ASK.COM where you could ask questions and get some search results. ASK is still better at targeting results, but google has a bigger set of choices to pick from.

The answer relates to the types of lubricants 1 to 4. But the ones you are talking about are types 1 through 3 with 3 being full synthetic.

That is very deceptive on the part of Castrol. Why would they need to lie about their oils?

> hurr durr muh synthetic

Maybe you ought to read up on motor oil because you're obviously a sheep to corporate marketing

bobistheoilguy.com

Fuck the labels, its the chemistry that matters

Because they want to make it sound special and sell a lot, that's how these wankers operate

>That is very deceptive on the part of Castrol. Why would they need to lie about their oils?

Castrol is owned by BP. So that means it is bound to leak if you are using it on your boat in the gulf of mexico.

>not using hello kitty motor oil

you plebs get on my level.

Surely there must be some Initial D motor oil that Takumi approves of.

Nothing to do with the fact he has a page dedicated to advertising for them..

>Nothing to do with the fact he has a page dedicated to advertising for them..

He's successfully monetized his site and some of the regular posters are official industry personnel. HOWEVER, some of these forums, bobistheoilguy included, are quite useful because these industry people do answer questions and even provide help. For example, the Fram USA technical director is regularly in the forums. They are aware that the chinese parts suppliers make unauthorized substitutions and even unauthorized manufacturing dimension changes to products. So for those who are reliable long time forum members (thus not fake one day trolls) do get such filters, take them apart carefully, and identify the suspected problem, the tech director asks for those filters so they can find out which factory is doing this. In return, all the shipping is paid of course and the forum poster gets a bunch of filters of his choice as reward for the info.

But if you simply appear to spout hate, spit on everything, then you won't last long on moderated forums. It's why those trolls in Veeky Forums that make trash threads to force good threads off also don't survive in moderated forums.

However, on those moderated forums, you don't get the complaints about Jiffylube's upsell scams and other problems. The moderators delete all unsubstantiated highly-negative comments like that and jiffylube might even sue the account since it's not anonymous and can be tracked to the ISP account. So there's pluses and negatives for those forums.

>Check your manual and the internets for what's recommended.
this is the only right answer
everything else in this thread is just retards being retarded

>this is the only right answer
It says go to dealer at regular maint intervals according to schedule.

>this is the only right answer
I say no to that. As would all the DIY people in here.

I have my oil analyzed

this

> gasping at straws

Or the fact that nearly every oil manufacturer had an Q & A there

It just so happened that Pennzoil wanted to advertise to a dedicated fan base

Objectively, their numbers are the best on PQIA, and this gets corroborated by used oil analyses from users on bob is the oil guy

A lot of people fall victim to clever marketing (Magnatec lol). You do whatever you want, I really don't give a shit what you put in your engine. I'm giving you and the other anons this information and you can choose what you want to do with it.

based blackstone customer

I love doing UOA's

*tips fedora*

>the exclusive deal my cars manufacture has with an oil manufacture is the only right answer
sure bud

> thinking you're smarter than the people who designed the fucking thing

sure bud

heres more data from PQIA

>thinking engineers decide the design constraints of a car
lol

> laughing at the work of mechanical and chemical engineers

because im so helpful, maybe you want to play with this here tool that helps you understand oil specifications

lubrizol.com/EngineOilAdditives/ACEA/RelativePerformanceTool/default.html

> being a NEET
> getting schooled on oil

you're welcome

>post makes zero sense
>heh I showed him
ok dude, 3rd year structural engineering btw

>"[Valvoline] SynPower 5W-20, 5W-30 and DuraBlend 5W-30 went through all the Dexos testing and passed all the requirements," Smith says. "But we felt that carrying the Dexos name was not providing the consumer with any value."

It's literally marketing and liability protection.
The manufacture owns the oil or has a stake in it and licenses the name to other oil manufactures.
You're an idiot.

> not spending any time reading articles about motor oil
> bitching about dexos, the most notoriously bloated and marketed oil cert out there
> therefore all oil specifiations are bullshit
> btw i am a third year STRUCTURAL ENGINEERing student

Oh congrats you just picked the most useless oil cert out there

that must mean that all other oil specifications are useless (even SAE and API)

I mean, fuck quality controls, consistency, regulation, oh and yes those liability protections

it isn like oil has gotten better over the last 100 years or anything

I mean really, what was I thinking?

I used this in my VR6, runs good.

Best to visit a forum specific to your car mate. Other owners will know which works best and which causes noisy lifters etc.

Beware fools who say Only use _____ because my pappy said so and he's a mechanic for 60years. Mechanics will use the cheapest shit they can get in bulk.

I personally wouldnt put castrol in anything i own due to nothing but bad results. Penrite all the way baby