Drive 3 miles to work and back

Yeah,you tell him Broey!

>shit posting then samefagging

classic

That's tripfags for ya

If you drive aggressively, the engine is coming up to full operating temperature faster. Once at full temp it's going to be more fuel efficient.

There's the theory that getting into higher gears faster is better for MPGees so maybe that is it.

Maybe you are warming the car up faster on such a short commute by driving harder. When the engine and oil are cold, the engine will idle quite a bit higher when you are at stoplights and such. Thatms my 2¢.

Or your math is shit.

Just going off what the car is telling me.

The computer can be wrong, only accurate way is to fill up at the pump and divide the total miles on that tank by the gallons it took to fill.

Your letting it rev too high. Also
>Auto
If non cvt learn forced hydrologic gear shifting. Depending on the car, quick pressure changes on gas pedal can cause gear shifts but it aint comfy.

You're probably choosing your lanes better and stopping less, therefore staying a consistent speed in a high gear for longer.

It's simple, engine gets best efficiency at peak torque.

Only because of less lost torque and more consistent rev.

The trick to get good mpg is to never waste energy by braking, keeping your engine in a low-friction-loss state (low rpm) and never coasting in neutral (wasting fuel on keeping an engine running that could be kept alive using kinetic energy instead). Also, driving agressive usually means getting to speed quick - so do that, then keep that speed and momentum as long as you can. Most cars have an mpg sweet spot around 80-120km/h (highest gear and maintaining speed), so try to stay there.

I always hoon off from red lights when I can, revving to the redline and then let the autotragic (yeah, i know...) shift to highest gear and turn on cruise control. I always get better mpg than factory specs, even when I carve around twisties. Just never brake, that's the most important.

Speaking physics: Conserve energy and don't waste it by turning it into heat with anything that has friction. Combine that with knowledge of your engine's most efficient operating point.

Looking at this graph, you can see that the most efficient operating point (red) is at 80% of max toruqe around 2500 rpm (accelerate using this point). Then get to a speed where you can be around 3500 rpm where only little torque is needed to maintain speed.
These graphs vary from engine to engine, but generally have a similar shape.

My Saturn drives at 2,500 rpm @ 70 mph. Why wouldn't it be at 3,500 if that is more efficient?

Since it doesn't seem like there's a huge difference at low load, I guess slightly lower friction overall (gearbox and clutch and so on), it is probably better to keep it at 2500rpm. That's just guesswork though.

Could also be chosen for longevity over a small hit in efficiency.

>drive 30 miles to work
>drive passively
>37mpg
feels good

autism

It's 3 miles. Get a baiku. Or a cringeworthy scooter.

Hell for a 3 mile commute it's short enough you could go full /n/tr and get a pedal bike.

or you could just not do any of that and continue spending 50 cents to get to work.

driving short distances is bad for the engine in your car, user.

citation?

>2015 auto sonata
Holy fuck you're a faggot. I bet it's leased

Normally the oil doesn't get much time to warm up and get everything flowing right. 1000mi with a bunch of cold starts and short commutes is def harder on the engine than a few 200mi drives.

>and never coasting in neutral (wasting fuel on keeping an engine running that could be kept alive using kinetic energy instead).
You serious?

and?

Logic. Your car needs to get up to temp and it cannot in 3 miles. Not to mention charging system, battery ,etc. will suffer. I drive 16 miles out of my way since I live so close to my shop and that is just barely enough to get oil temp to 210f.

You're fucking stupid.

youre going to be driving those 3 miles anyway you sperg.

youre confusing hours with miles.

You're a faggot.
Wow, now wasn't that a constructive post.

It's a lease.

I live up a hill, and shit gets cold/hot in California.

I don't know how to baiku.

It's called engine braking. Google it, It's pretty useful.

>California
>cold
Laughingcanadiangirls.jpg

Have you come to grips with the fact that you're an enormous pussy yet?

...

...

Actually the speed-to-mpg sweet spot is roughly 47-50MPH/80ish KPH (slight variations which depend more on aerodynamics than gearing) for any car ever made.

Gearing cant defeat the physics of logarithmic increase in drag.

>TFW my job is in the same city I live in and literally less than 5 minute drive tfw a full tank of gas last me more than a month feelsgoodman

On short drives nothing gets up to temperature.

The condensation inside the engine block and in the oil doesn't burn off, so it dilutes the oil. The plugs get dirty because the engine is always in the warm-up map. The battery never gets a chance to fully charge. The thermostat never pops open. The exhaust never gets the condensation burned out of it so it rusts.

youtube.com/watch?v=phjw32BIHjo

I always take back roads and haul ass whenever I can. Just make sure you get to operating temp before you do.

>Not hitting 80mph on a back road.

Which is why the reasonable car owner allows a 5-7 minute warm up before driving, every time.

I get the same gas mileage if I warm up the car every time for a tank versus not warming the car up, related to OP I also get (about 10%) better mileage if I keep 1st and 2nd between 2500-3500 and keep 3rd and 4th between 2000-2500/1500-2000 respectively, if not on a fast roadway.

Not allowing the vehicle to reach operating temp before driving causes a build up of slow damage to everything but the brakes and suspension. It's never, never a good idea to drive cold.

Are you dense?

Modern cars use 0 fuel when you aren't touching the throttle. The road wheels are turning the engine, and you just gradually slow down due to engine braking.

If you clutch in the engine has to idle itself around 800rpm by injecting and burning fuel.

I ride down a long twisty hill everyday to work, and every single day morons ahead of me are riding their brakes the entire way down. I just drop down into 3rd, and ride it all the way down at a steady 30mph without even touching the brakes at all.

on my zx14 if i am on the highway and go 75 i get 36mpg if i go 90 i get 42mpg i can only guess 1 aerodynamics start to work better or 2 the injectors lean out at higher rpms or both.

Are you retarded and/or do you still live in the 70s?

You're the idiot for not thinking a vehicle needs to be warmed up - don't ever believe that "It only needs 30 seconds" and "it's quicker if you drive it" bullshit.

Simple. Physics.

The oils have gotta heat up to operating temp or a load on the power/drivetrain accelerates wear and tear. The cat needs to heat up to at least ~500F to function properly.
30 seconds ain't gonna do shit and driving the vehicle to warm it up faster is possibly the worst thing you can ever do to a car.

Don't believe me, read this
forum.miata.net/vb/showpost.php?s=5293f4b32394879b045c20acd24fd702&p=1002741&postcount=7

>I've got 100 discussions agreeing with my argument
>and 1 that doesn't

>Aha! I knew it!

So you're retarded.

Might as well get a truck