On a scale of 1 to 10, how retarded would I be if I bought this old W150?

So, I would like to have an old truck for hauling shit around to the dump, picking shit up at home depot, all that. This old W150 has been on CL for a month for $600.
Text of the add:

>I'm selling a 1988 Dodge Ram 150, only 108k miles, runs great, very reliable, used as a daily driver without ever having a problem. Could use some new tires, and has dents in the side and front bumper, and no muffler. Easy things to fix, and it's not loud even without the muffler. Tires are flat in the pictures, but have since been inflated and it's back on the road. It's a reliable truck, have driven as far as New York, never had a problem with it, has a 318 motor, easy to work on and they last forever. The paint is a little worn, but it has very little rust for its year, and no rot. Solid frame, the interior is still in good condition, solid truck all around, and the thing's a tank, can take whatever you throw at it without a hiccup. Does have fairly recent tune up, with cap/rotor/plugs/wires, and oil change.

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$600 for an old Dodge with the 318? That's a good deal. Make sure that all it really needs IS the muffler.

Going to take a while for all the pics so bear with me.

shit, I'll fix the pics, sorry

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Again, look it over and confirm the only major thing it needs is a muffler. If it's been sitting for this long, something has to be wrong with it.

>only 108k miles,
Why does the odometer say 12k?

iirc old odometers only went to 5 digits.

Think harder, Homer. If it's 108k, it would show 8k on the odo, not 12k.

>hunting dicks

Looks like it's been in a snowbank and/or ditch on the right side to me.

I'd give it a solid 7 on your retard scale, but then $600 is basically nothing.

Old dodges are hard to kill and for $600 it's not a bad deal

Also it is a d150 as it is 2wd. The "w" in w150 denotes 4x4 and "d" is 2wd

The 318 is unkillible and the 727 auto trans is considered one of the strongest ever made

>the 727 auto trans is considered one of the strongest ever made
They have a terrible weakness: if the rear wheel slips (or you are doing a burnout) and then catches again, the transmission frags. That's why most racers use GM transmissions or dedicated racing transmissions.

As someone who has done that exact thing multiple times without any problems whatsoever I can confidently say you are a lier

The 727 was and is still a very popular trans for drag racers because they're simple, robust and strong

Look it up my good man

I'm always cautious if something is really cheap and has been up for a long time , either there's something very wrong with it that someone else hasn't picked it up for a beater or the owner is a weirdo , title in mail etc etc. It may not be a bad truck just be okay with the fact that with that youre gonna have a hard time getting rid of it quickly if the need arises , the 318 and 727 are reliable but a 25 year old truck is a 25 year old truck , in which case I'd say be prepared and comfortable with the idea of spending the price of the truck in parts to make it semi reliable because there will be issues to contend with. At this point you're into the truck for 1200 and to be honest you'll still have a haggard looking d150 that you wouldn't be able to sell for what you have in it. If I were you I'd look for a truck needing less in the 1500-1000 range with less uncertainty and haggling them down nitpicking issues , yes the extra 500-1000 does make a difference in the quality of truck. Also idk about where you're located op but in the northeast the dodge pickups are way harder to come by then the ford and Chevy counterparts which is something to consider if you're gonna fix it on a pick n pull budget

if it turns out the running condition to be true as described. go for it.
any reliably running old truck is worth $600.
old ones like that are cheapo and easy to work on.
and Dodge is known for those diehard dependable engines.

ugly paint and dents don't hurt anything. its body cancer from rust that kills it. and that truck looks mostly free of any serious rust issues. That surface rust is just a nice patina and gives it character.

look up 727 transmission overrun sprag failure. It is a very common condition that you should become aware of before you do any more damage.

Lmao a fellow New Hampshire otist, I've been looking at this one too haha

A problem that is only common AFTER the failure of a drive line component such as a universal joint or ring and pinion and only if it happens in first gear

4,000 extra miles isn't much of a concern on a $600, 28 year old pickup truck. The part I don't believe is that it's odometer only rolled over once, thats low mileage for an old truck. Probably more like 212k IMO

Jesus christ, chrome shit the bed twice while trying to type this shit, so here I go again.

Since I already made this thread I might as well ask this.

I am going to move south in a year or so, I'll probably have 3k to work with.

I do not want anything newer than 1998, I like the simplicity and boxy design's of older vehicles.

I want something that is rugged, cheap to purchase, has cheap parts, decent cargo capacity and is fairly easy to work on.

List of shit that comes to mind
>pretty much any older 1/2 pick up
>K5 blazer
>ford bronco
>dodge ram charger
>ford ranger
>xj cherokee
>jeep comanche

What would be the best one to fit my needs? Anything that I should add or get rid of?

>New Hampshire
Unfortunately, the rust makes me want to suck start a shotgun.

Broncos share parts with F150-F350.
Came with 302 or 351. If you get the 351 have fun changing two of the passenger side sparkplugs, pain in the dick.
Also if you notice your headlights flickering its because the connection part in the dash (easy to remove) is prob burnt out.
I used to own a 94 Bronco.