I drained my blue coolant but did not do a flush and installed a new radiator and then added red oem coolant

I drained my blue coolant but did not do a flush and installed a new radiator and then added red oem coolant.

While driving, my car almost overheated. Would not performing a flush have contributed to the overheating?

Other urls found in this thread:

sancarlosradiator.com/VoltageDrop/flush.htm
twitter.com/AnonBabble

No.

Check your fuel pump, it may be blocked after a new radiator install. It can cause overheating.

>red oem coolant
What kind of car, year?

Literally what? the fuel pump is on my fuel tank under the passenger seat.

Hes playing on the "coming to the internet to fix your car and getting stupid advice" meme. But in all honesty youre a fucking idiot, please take it to someone who knows whay they're doing and never touch you car again

So, like a dumbfuck, you don't know anything so you choose to insult rather than offer advice, ok...

1990 Ford Escort LX

No, because youve pulled one of the most rookie mistakes in thr book you retard. Mixing different coolants makes this jelly kind of shit that blocks your radiator up real good. Never put coolant in unless you flush

>Would not performing a flush have contributed to the overheating?
Correct. A lot of old coolant remained in the system. While removing the old radiator removed a lot of the old blue coolant, your engine has a lot of spaces inside where the old blue coolant remained.

The older thread from a week ago had someone mixing their fluids. The advice was flush with water twice before using the radiator flush liquid. That was to remove as much of the contaminated substances as possible before using the flush.

If it was me, I'd flush with water once and check if any yuck came out. If a lot, then another flush. If now looks cleanish, then I would set the heater control to max because the heater core has enough piping to hold a half quart or so of the old fluid. Since you had the hot turned off (assumption), that heater core still has your old blue fluid in it. Now that you've flushed out the contaminated liquid, you can flush out the core without worrying some of the jelly will get into it and clog up any fine channels. Now you can use the radiator flush liquid and loosen up and clean whatever is sticking to all the pipe and passage walls.

Seems like a lot of trouble so far? Well, water is cheap and if you are not running very long, even tap water is not so bad. No well or aquifer water allowed though. That minerally stuff causes scale and is one of the three prime reasons why you have coolant fluid (cooling, prevent galvanic, prevent scaling). Be sure to clean out the plastic coolant tank of old fluid. Even my local dollar store sells a simple handpump siphon hose.

The radiatior flush should tell you to clean out the flush so you can use distilled water for this (not tap) or if you are rich, flush with radiator fluid before refilling.

>No, because youve pulled one of the most rookie mistakes in thr book you retard.
At least he didn't do something like "I wanted to kill germs so I mixed a bleach solution and washed my car with it. How long does the anti-germ cleaning last?"

You may have some air trapped somewhere in the cooling system. Do you have good heat? Try bleeding it out again before replacing the cap.

>1990 Ford Escort LX
The factory coolant should be green. Now you've got green, blue, and red mixed in there lol. Do a complete drain and flush several times with tap water. Then fill with green.

>Would not performing a flush have contributed to the overheating?

For solution to the "dexcool" problem where you mix different coolants together, see:

sancarlosradiator.com/VoltageDrop/flush.htm

It's pretty descripting of the various types of flushes you can do for certain types of problems. It also gives you an estimate of how successful each method is.

As said before, the lack of a flush would have nothing to do with it. I can almost guarantee you have an airlock somewhere in the system, or maybe a hose is kinked in a way it shouldn't be.
Did you replace any other items with the radiator (hoses, thermostat etc)?

Yeah, the contaminated coloured coolants of different manufacture are not going to cause the overheating as described in OP. At worse, they'll cause accelerated corrosion or electrolysis which may/will lead to overheating in the future. You're right however, it should be flushed.
There's another problem causing the immediate overheating, and I'd bank on an incorrect filling procedure allowing air to become trapped where it shouldn't be.

Bet OP didn't bleed the system. Air pockets. Air pockets everywhere.

Thanks for the help, guys, flushed my shit 3 damn times.

I only had a jug and a half to put in the rad but ran out and the store closed so I called it a day and put the cap back on, I'll buy some more tomorrow and resume.

My car doesn't have a bleeder screw but to get rid of airpockets, do I just blast my heater on max and fill until I can feel warmth and the coolant doesn't go down anymore?

old cars like yours, I run the engine till full operating temp with the rad cap off while adding coolant as needed. The engine needs to get to operating temp so that the thermostat opens and any air can bleed out. Expect coolant to overflow from the radiator neck as the engine is warming up. When no more air bubbles come up put cap on and be sure reservouir is filled to proper level.

oh and yes heater on full heat, interior fan doesn't need to be on.

Wait, you couldn't finish filling it up, drove it, and then asked if the reason it's overheating was because you didn't flush it? Or did I read that wrong?

I know with my ls1 Camaro it helped to get the front raised as to ensure all air bubbles came up

Be sure to wash the coolant off your paint.

Most cars have a drain on the block to get rid of all the coolant. find yours, drain it.