What's the worst case scenario if I replace a distributor and it's a tooth off to the front or the back?

What's the worst case scenario if I replace a distributor and it's a tooth off to the front or the back?

Fiery death

Your car will run like shit, noticeably

The timing will be advanced or retarded.

So I could just pull it back out and replace it correctly?

Absolute worst would be having a piston hit a valve in an interference engine, but you'd have to be off by more than a tooth.

Stupid quesion but do distributors have any affect at all during a compression test?

I seriously doubt it but I want to know for certain.

Yes.

Ignition has no affect since there is nothing igniting.

The throttle being open or closed will though. Compression test with throttle all the way open.

Spark timing can definitely affect peak cylinder pressure. Just take out the spark plug before the compression test to be sure that the readings are genuine.

> ignition timing
> causing valve strike
Try again. Could cause you to melt your engine I suppose if you advance and you knock a bunch.

Not nearly as important as cam timing, I know from experience

> compression test can be done with no distributor. It won't affect cylinder pressure.

What are the physics of a spark affecting cylinder pressure?

>belt driven distributor

Thank you. I am doing that.

See you just described why i felt in the back of my head that the question was stupid. Yes i do take spark plugs out so that should be that. Thanks user.

Alrighty then, I thank you sir you've calmed my nerves a bit.

the fuck is going on here?

If the spark plug was still inserted into the head, what did you tap the compression tester in to? Drill and tap another hole into the combustion chamber?

Cmon now.

Dude if you pull the plugs your pressure will be zero psi. Use your brains you two. Pressure during a COMPRESSION TEST is unaffected by spark. There is zero combustion happening. The spark plug is there just to plug a hole.

Naw that's the steering pump

It probably wont even run, if it does, it will run like total shit.

Oh god. Yeah what the fuck was I thinking?

You're right, severe pinging would be the worst.

Usually the timing is advanced so that peak pressure occurs at TDC.

That's the angle of the dangle friend

Sorry buddy, not here to dig into you but that couldn't be more wrong. Peak pressure at Top Dead Center is a good recipe for damage to the connecting rod, bearing shell and bearing retainer/cap studs or bolts.

Location of Peak Pressure must occur at the very minimum of five degrees crankshaft rotation after TDC so, y'know, the pressure can be exerted on the piston and push it down the bore, instead of down on a vertical rod and crankshaft that does not translate that force to rotation of the crankshaft.

Lupke, is this the Honda (?) that unwound the Hall Effect sensor in the distributor body? Mate you must find, borrow or buy yourself a timing light and set this timing correctly. Without it, you are pissing in the wind and seeing where it lands.

Too much advance and it's quite likely that you will backfire. Too retarded and it's quite likely that it will not run. Intermediate advance or retard will cause rough running, overheating of the cylinder heads with advance and overheating of the exhaust system with retard. If the exhaust manifold is glowing at idle, your timing is far, far retarded.

Good luck with your fix!

What the fuck is going on in this thread?

How do you think a compression tester is attached to the engine? Genuinely curious.

jet valves of course!

What if it's carburetted?

You are disabled mentally. It's a distributor, not cam timing you bell end.

>drive honda with d15b6
>engine runs just no power with the timing belt 3 teeth off

are interference engines a meme?

They don't have power with valve timing correct.

your timing will be off, assuming the diz cap is clocked where it was before the tooth got moved.

>this fucking thread

Is that a 4AGE?

no

Looks like a 22r(e) bud