>Datsun or early to mid 80's Nii-San
>Datsun questions and answers
>Datsun photos and videos
>Datsun stories and CL finds
I can officially announce: July 4th shall be the day we awaken the 240Z from its 15 year slumber and start the engine.
WORDS CANNOT EXPRESS MY HYPE
POST DATSUNS!
Dank search skills lad
Wait wat
You left my thread to rot lol, just giving you shit since nobody replied to mine
B-but I searched the catalog before I posted...
Search game weak. I can repost images when I get home, my topic was about the LY crossflow heads I just discovered
Does /ddt/ like the g nose?
I personally like them, but most people don't.
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L28 status: happening
I like em with a lip
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Done working for the night, now for the LY head. Anyone know much about these? From what I can gather, they were a crossflow racing head developed for the rally cars, very few examples remain and those go for a hefty price today.
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HybridZ will have the info on that, in droves. Also maybe zcars or whatever that Aussie website is
>At 2870cc, with an 11.7:1 compression ratio, on three 50PHH Mikunis and with factory CDI, they quoted a nice round 300ps @ 7,600 rpm and 32kg/mm @ 6,400 rpm. Max recommended revs were 8,000 rpm
And now I want one even more
Sounds a lot like Derek's new head he's coming out with.
I have an extra hood.... should I?
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>that sad moment you realize you're more interested in the Honda Acty kei truck in the background than the Z in front of you
and that's why big flares suck
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>that rear bumper
hnnnnggg
Plugs, plug wires, cap, and rotor purchased.
Monday can't come soon enough.
Come monday I'll have a spare L24 and 4spd for sale, not going to advertise them since nobody really buys them but if you need parts/spare they'll be available
260z resto guy here....
The hunt for a diesel crank shaft has begun. I have big plans, oh yes, big plans indeed. I keep throwing my wallet at the internet though, no crankshaft yet.
datsun
Going full green hornet with a 3.4l?
What are you doing to it? Also what block/head are you going with? Any big plans?
>see this pic
>oh, he reposted my p-
>that's not my pic
>not even the same car
Have any more shots of that 432?
If I can find a block that can x-ray with minimal cylinder offsets then absolutely. They had to go through quite a few blocks till they found a casting suitable enough. If I can't find a healthy enough block, it will be a 3.2L stroker.
what crank? i have a dead SD33T
Just swapping the L24/4spd combo for an L28/5spd.
The big plans will come next year, in the meantime I have to rebuild a Jeep 4.0 that's way more overdue for some love.
for you
>SD33T
I believe from interbutts that crank has 5 main bearings. We need 7 for L28 compatibility.
Where'd you find it? Obviously you got a lot closer than I did, the museum wouldn't let me open the doors or the hood
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why does it have no spoiler
they made a turbodiesel with 5 bearings? fuck nissan. what kind of shit engineering is that?
That's a good question. I had no way to verify that it wasn't a cheap badge swap pretending to be a 432 either, since they wouldn't open the hood to let me see an S20 in there
so comfy
it wasnt the cleanest but its ok
I got all excited, but found a thread in hybridz complaining about that very issue...
The hunt for a L28D crank continues. Check ebay, there's one on there for 2,000. I lol'd so deeply the walls shook.
You get a chance to drive it?
fucking retarded
+1 with lip, i would do it to my 260 when i get a turbo motor for it, so much space for extra curricular with it :D
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GM BTFO
Total Datsun noob here. If I were to begin search for a 510, what should I look out for? What price range should I stick to?
I'm planning on buying something a bit rough, but running, and to teach myself to wrench on it.
>Spare L24 and four speed
Holy shit. How much and where are you located? I need another donor engine to build my destroker L27.
>What price range should I stick to?
You will pay $5k to $7k for a rusty driver. This is not a joke.
Just outside Kansas city. Engine is solid, currently serving daily driver duty until I swap it. Transmission gets a bit notchy at times. Make me an offer, I can let go of them pretty cheap but I won't ship them
Well then were at a bit of an impass, since I'm in northern California and I'm NOT gonna drive out there. The most I could offer is like $100 plus shipping.
At that price, keep em for spares yourself. I'll find another L24 out here. Thanks for the offer man.
Hey, I'm the guy from norcal with the 510 from the other thread. I have an l24 that I could hook you up with, I pulled it out of my Z a while ago to do a swap. I'm in Laos for the next 30 days though, so maybe we can work something out then
Sounds very intriguing, I'm definitely interested. Let me know more when you get back from Laos, and good luck there!
Bamp nigguh
At least bump with pics lad
And then I realized I've already posted that one
:^)
I really like how this block still has a hone on it, need to clean it up this weekend, and get the measurements done. NO MORE LAZY 4 me!
:D
damnnnnn son, look at this photo i found on zCar Depot
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he might be able to find a base model bmw 2002 for less money. still easy to find rust
is that a hemi?
Mostly
Okay /ddt/, big question.
Fender mirrors or Door mirrors?
Hello baby
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Should I buy this?
yeah i would go peep game, i think Pure Yellow 280Z might be like a one-year-only anniversary addition? take like 900 cash with you, check out rust.
yeah if it is, it would be out of 1000, 1977 ZapZap 280z.
would be worth restoring stock IMO.
fender 100%
only USDM driver side, run the chrome one. no fender mirrors IMO.
I'd run with two chrome ones, one on each door. That's a classy look.
I only run a driver's side mirror
yeah i only have one on my car because it only came with one, dont know how i feel about two... i guess its nice to be able to see... not a fan of fender mirrors
that.... actually looks pretty damn nice for the price (and the location)
bring a strong magnet and a nylon legging to wrap it in, then test the normal rust spots for bondo or rust using the magnet.
Definitely worth a look my friend.
and that's alright, it's stock. But I prefer more visibility (and an even, mirrored appearance, I.E. both sides look similar)
what radiator upgrades yall run? i have a stock one but im not sure if its leaking or not, i need to check...
I work at a radiator shop building radiators all day for Isuzu, Cummins, Zamboni, Siemens, and loads of others, and I can tell you that a simple aluminum radiator and nice two speed electric fan will work wonders for your S30. Overheating will be a thing of the past.
I'm still running the original brass radiator, but only because it was recored about 5,000 miles ago. It's practically brand new, and I'm cheap.
Also, a leak test: get a spray bottle and fill it with soapy water. Spray it on the suspected areas of the radiator when it's full and the car is running; that might spot you some leaks.
the its off the car, i want to make sure that i have one ready to go when the motor is done, you think pumping compressed air into it with the soap water will work?
absolutely, testing it outside the car is the way to go! We actually test our radiators right after welding them by submerging them in a water table (think metal kiddie pool, basically) and running 7-12 PSI through em and watching for bubbles. You have to find a way to cap them to gain pressure, though. We have silicon expanding plugs we use, and I have no idea how to source one of those.
The best way to cap it at home would probably be some rubber radiator hose hose clamped to the inlet, and then plug the hose with a piece of proper diameter PVC pipe with an end cap glued on. Make sure to hose clamp that PVC pipe into the radiator hose! Drill a hole in the PVC end cap for a quick release air compressor fitting, and attach the hose directly to that. Turn on your compressor to pressurize.
Cap off the outlet of the radiator with the same radiator hose/PVC pipe/ PVC cap, but drill a hole in this one and thread in a PSI gauge (if ya want to, or just leave the cap without a hole), and I'd say you're ready to test.
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I wonder how similar the S20 is to the RB20, internally. I thought I read that the RB series was one of the last projects that Prince engineers worked on before retirement.
how did you take the pic with the hood in the way?
I'm guessing the owner took the hood off
hood has been removed
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Finally got some new fenders to replace my rusted out one, and they came with most valence parts I've been missing as a bonus.
This is the shit that made me drop the diff. Had to drill and tap it out. Going to get another drain plug and use it for the fill plug.
And then I went and did donuts.
thats a nice datsun, shame its not a celica mk1
Schweeeet, looks like mostly surface rust
Ouch
Not ouch
Words cannot express my desire for an RA28 lift back Celica with a twin turbocharged 1UZ-FE/R154 combo.
Yep, just gotta clean it up while I'm cleaning up the rest of the car for paint, and fix a couple little dents and they'll be perfect.
hey cucks, im back.
whats done
>head is correctly torqued down
>timed up
>exhaust side is complete other than rest of exhaust, oil and coolant lines
Intake side is left
>vacuum line fittings
>injectors
>intercooler & piping
Howdy y'all, anyone have experience with these complete gasket/seal overhaul kits? Thezstore has them for 119, while z car depot had them for 65 bucks. What's the quality like on these?
the Z store is hilariously overpriced, so I think that the kits are probably the same.
They're seals, if you're concerned about the quality, use some RTV with it.
yeah, i kinda noticed that today shopping around, perhaps the have the benifit of people just landing there and not shopping around, ill check out my local parts store tomorrow too see what they have.
Happening
Aaaaand today's task: replace the timing belt and water pump in the Honda so it can be moved to make way for the Z.
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be careful not to bend the radiator support.