What's your opinion on 200k mile trucks, alot of them are only available in my price range

What's your opinion on 200k mile trucks, alot of them are only available in my price range.

So, how can I not pick a lemon and how can I make it last to 300,000 miles?

Pic related, it's one I'm looking at
>that 454 tho

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phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/cto/5656149873.html
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phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/cto/5645060948.html
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If you don't need a 3/4 or 1 ton don't get one. The gas will kill you. At that mileage it is a just as much luck as anything else. Drive it thoroughly to see how the transmission shifts and if the engine smokes. I myself would trust a F150 with a 300 I6 and a manual trans more than anything else with high mileage. As far as making it last, Change fluids when you should and keep an close eye on the oil level.

my dad had 2x 1991 K1500 suburbans
a 454 one sold at 302K miles completely stock engine.
still ran fine

he still has a 350 model with 290K
very tired engine
i'm 100% sure the cam is flat at this point.

SBCs keep on going

I have 286k on my 02 Sierra 1500. Original trans, original engine. Key to them lasting is keeping them stock and maintenance, maintenance, maintenance.

Look for one that hasn't been modded or lifted and ask the seller questions about how they maintained it.

Depending on the company that owned it, sometimes fleet trucks can be a good buy if they actually had a fleet manager who did his job right. That's how I bought mine. It had 130k on it but the equipment yard I bought it from performed and kept records of everything they ever had done to the truck. Got it for $1200 at one of their auctions and it's been a good truck.

In all honesty the gas is the least of my worries since I'm gonna be wrapping school up soon and my job is only 13 minutes away. I just want a truck i can throw my tools into and maybe go off roading with every now and again. And I need to learn how to maintain a vehicle, I know oil and what not but I just lost my Liberty because I thought I could stretch my oil change an extra couple of days

get an s10

I'm worried I might be too tall for a S10

If you do, remove all the stupid mexican shit like the visor and running boards

make sure it runs good. seriously thats it. see how it idles in and out of gear, how it drives around and accelerates. keep an eye in the transmission, does it slip if you're just cruising up hills, or even slippage when putting it to the floorboards. does the rear end clunk when tapping the throttle, or when coasting downhill when the transmission shifts? oil pressure is a big one, since the trucks especially see neglect and tend to be full of sludge.


my truck leaked oil like a sieve, trans slipped under hard throttle, burned oil, radiator leaked, oil pressure dropped to under 5psi after 15-20+ minutes of freeway driving once you got off and came to a stop, beat the piss out of that thing for 30,000 miles, still ran like a fucking champ when I pulled it.
>check for rust, if you're looking at the 73-87 Chevy's, cab corners, floor pans, rockers, windshield and windows, frame, suspension points


If you're into the Chevy's, there's tons and tons of forum posts and information about them out there, of course this goes for others as well, but I'm awfully damn familar with the 73-87s mostly.

So I talked to the guy that owns the Suburban, it says it's been sitting for two years, is that a deal breaker? It's an 88

Just get a 4 cylinder Ranger. They'll last forever.

Nobody wants those cars. I had a similar condition loaded 1990 with a 350 and I could not sell it for $2k. It had 240k miles and ran great, but TBI can have issues. Maybe offer the guy $1k if it runs. If it's been sitting it's probably for a reason.

With all the slim line led lights nowadays, that visor can make a pretty nice light bar without having drag/road noise/clearance issues like anything roof mounted.
I'd paint the running boards black, get a cheap can of Bedliner and call it a day.

>If you don't need a 3/4 or 1 ton don't get one. The gas will kill you.
The difference in fuel economy between a 1500 and 2500/3500 with the same engine is negligible. Diesels are far more common in 2500s and 3500s and have better economy than gas trucks, plus diesel is cheaper than gas right now.

mini trucks CAN be reliable if they're treated like cars. If they're treated like trucks, they're not reliable. Especially compared to fullsize trucks.

All else equal, a 1/2 ton will last longer than a 1/4 ton, and a 3/4 or 1 ton will last longer than a 1/2 ton. They're built with stronger components. Stronger components last longer.
Is it possible they were put to work and abused? Sure. It's also possible the 1/2 ton you're considering was used and abused just as badly, but unlike the 2500/3500, the 1500 was not designed to take that abuse and keep going without issue.

Go for it bud. My truck has 428K miles on it and the only problem is a knock sensor code which is common for 5.3s. Just as long as it isn't too rusty and doesn't run like complete dog shit I'd go for it.

>sitting for two years

run my dude

>290
>sbc
>a lot
My friend had one that hit 500k and he sold it, probably still going desu.
They don't die, they are too weak and can't rev high enough to stress the motor.
Boring as all fuck and terrible fuel mileage though.

Nah m8, the visor a shit

I can't let my pathfinder sit for more than a month before it starts running like total dog shit. if i left it for 2 years it would probably just explode next time i started it lmao

>it says it's been sitting for two years
Mine sat for a while before I bought it and it's only been driven half a dozen times or so in the past two years. Still fires right up and runs like new.

Engine was rebuilt with a 454, odometer says 58k and the rebuild has

norfolk.craigslist.org/ctd/5662764115.html


>4% state tax on top

i called the guy and i just discouraged.

no my head hurts snd it'lll be another day without a car and another day with this headache

?

I would love to have an old Suburban like that.

restore it so it looks dead on original and new. everywhere you can't see, is modernized.

we had an all red suburban like that growing up

my dad traded it for a horse

tfw no centurion

Don't you mean your dad's truck?

Try and find a 90s C1500 with less than 250k. If the transmission shifts fine, you're probably good to go.

>mini trucks CAN be reliable if they're treated like cars. If they're treated like trucks, they're not reliable.

My toyota begs to differ. fucker's seen airtime.

Ok guys OP here, got a couple of viewings I'm going to tomorrow here's the basic run down.

>1990 Ford F150 5.0 302 V8 Automatic
Guy says it leaks oil, but not too much and doesn't know where it came from. Truck got side swiped once upon a time. Odometer reads 127, truck looks clean and he only wants $1500 for it

>1991 Chevy Cheyenne 3/4 ton V8 Automatic
Guy says the previous owner replaced the head gasket, he needs an alignment and he put 1 control arm in it. He took the exhaust off with the intention of putting a straight pipe on it, left it off instead. Odometer has stopped working at 252k. Truck looks not terrible. Wants $1600 for it

The ford sounds better than the hackjob cheyenne, sadly. Give us your local CL, we'd be more help.

>Ford

phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/cto/5656149873.html

>Cheyenne

phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/cto/5643128061.html

try to find a 1 owner truck.

There is a 2nd gen dakota 5.2 1 owner for sale near me. 200k+ miles i'm going to look at.

phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/cto/5645060948.html

200? That's tried tested and true territory. Loyalty has been proven. It will be loyal again.

I love the boxyness of this truck.

>fucker's seen airtime.
So has my Suburban.

>2nd gen dakota

As a 1st gen owner I also prefer the 2nd gen and will probably pick one up when this one dies.

Got her at 55k miles and we're at 170k now 10 years later. Feels good man.

My first car was a 1989 Chevrolet K/2500 ext. cab w/ the long bed and a manual trans. It already had 210,000 miles on it when I got it from my uncle who completely abused it its whole life; it was a Michigan car to boot, but the rust never bothered it much. It did need new tires and a new clutch, but after that it never let me down in the couple years I drove it. It also had manual door locks, crank windows, and no air con which helped me avoid any extra costs on aging electrical components; as much as it sucks, I would recommend that you find one with at least manual locks and roll up windows unless you are prepared to spend more money for repairs.

I eventually sold it to my brother and he drove it for a few more years. In short, it was pretty beat up, but it always ran. Even to this day my dad uses it as a work truck with around 230,000 miles on it. The brake booster seals are going so it's consuming brake fluid and sometimes idles high, but that is more due to age than anything. A couple hundred bucks and a few hours of time and he and I could have it fixed. That's the other up side to these trucks, almost every mechanic can work on them and most jobs are easy and simple enough for any owner to tackle (there's tons of info out there on how to fix them too). Insurance is CHEAP too (even if you opt for full coverage, but I wouldn't bother).

The downsides are that most are beat up now (you occasionally see a good one, but not often). Have a GM dealership or a reputable mechanic look over the truck before you buy to avoid buying one with major issues. Also, they are SLOW (unless you get one of the big block engines). Finally, they are certainly no pussy magnet (unless you are in to country chicks). Good luck, OP.

youtube.com/watch?v=d2VgRiaDHWw

pic fucking related