ROLLED OR BRUSHED ON PAINTJOBS

Anyone here paint their own car?
There's car I'm thinking of buying. Its a SIMCA Aronde from the late 50's.
It runs and drives, but needs new paint.


I'm considering using just a regular paint brush or maybe a roller.

People use to paint their cars with brush. 20 years ago its not uncommon to see cars or trucks painted with brush, especially in rural areas.

Been reading up on the "$50 Paint job"
Will this method work with paints other than Rustoleum?
I have checked local available paints and there are two types; Alkyd Oil Base, and Acrylic with fixer or no fixer. Both can be applied with a brush or roller. Which is best?

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My friend painted his car with a foam roller and bright side polyurethane boat paint, Google it.
You layer it up then wet sand and buff it, looks really good and it's cheap.
It's a lot of work though.
You could just paint it and not wet sand and buff but it won't look as good.
I have painted a couple cars, it's expensive, time consuming and takes a lot of work.
It all depends on how professional of s job you want, but I recommend the boat paint fur a cheap and durable paint job.

Also the nice part about the boat paint is you can do a cost per day and still drive the car, you don't have to have the car down fur the entire duration of the paint job.

plasidip it

Coat per day* fuck
Plastidip is gay and hard to clean

But you're gay

Epic!!
XD

>polyurethane
Isn't that like Epoxy?
I feel like it will stress fracture when the body flexes or lift off the current paint like a sheet of ice.

It actually isn't hard to clean at all.

It's what real car paint is made out of.
Real car paint is a 2k product which means it's 2 part.
That roll on poly is 1k which means it's one part you just roll it on and let it dry.
2k products are superior but they are much more complicated and expensive to apply.
Not for the inexperienced home DIY person.

2016

Buying paint

Giving money to companies that literally just make colors all day.

But vinyl wrap instead. Way better.

We hand rolled house paint on our shitty RV

>current year
>shitting up your car with the vinyl jew

oh my god that is beautiful

>I've never used plastidip

It cleans up fine dumbass

Boats take a much heavier pounding than cars do and if you have ever been flying out of the water in a boat with a bimini you will be surprised at how much the whole thing flexes

Looks pretty fucking great. The grey suits it really well.

How can fragile little plasticuck ever compete.

>polyurethane
I have some wood Minwax poly, will that work as clear coat?

My wheels are plastidipped but ok

Yeah that is polyurethane, it's not really designed fur exterior use though.

That looks like such a shitwagon, I love it.

Friend of mine did the same thing with some rustolium paint and primer all in one on a shitbox he didn't care about.
Keep in mind he did this paint job in roughly 2 hours without any prep work, And this is how it came out, not bad actually considering it cost him ~$40 for everything including paint and rollers.
.

I dont live in Australia i promise.

I'm thinking of using rhino liner all over my 4runner since the paint is going to shit and I never wash the thing anyway. Anyone ever done it?

Not bad at all. Looks like faded factory paint.

>I'm thinking of using rhino liner all over my 4runner since the paint is going to shit and I never wash the thing anyway. Anyone ever done it?

Is it even possible?
I remember my father having this truck bed done in 2001.
The liner was applied with a propane torch in a way not too dissimilar to roofing membrane.

>I have checked local available paints
There's also tractor paint. It's an enamel type paint and you'll need to add a paint hardener to it for automotive use. The hardener lets you get that smooth polished shiny look necessary for cars. There was a previous Veeky Forums thread on it. Looking it up. Here is is:

archive.4plebs.org/o/thread/15268892/#q15268892

My best advice before you go painting up your project is to go buy a car hood or even a front clip from the junkyard for cheap and practice on it first. You'll thank me later...

It's only hard to clean if you do a shit job and get overspray everywhere.

Yeah, people do this. There is a Ford Mustang around where I live painted with bedliner, even. Looks mean as fuck.

Apparently they make a version of it that you can apply with a roller these days.

Yep, if you can't make that look good, then your car won't be any better. It cuts your risk and you can try different paints too such as valspar black or valspar red on it. Then you can compare not just the different paints, but also their difficulties on getting the final finish you want.

Tractor enamel + thinners + brush. Forget the ration, think it's 80% enamel, 20% thinners, or it may even be 90-20. Enough to disguise brush strokes, without runs is what you needs.

Easy and hardwearing.

He'll come back and post that his cat walked across the paint. Or he painted it outside and the atmospheric grit made a permanently rough surface that waxing couldn't get rid of. Then a crow flew over and dropped a poop because crows are also mischievous antagonistic birds.

Fucking sweet

Anything that isn't a correctly done paint job is going to look like shit in a year.
>but look at this overprocessed 400x600 jpg of a car that was painted 2 minutes before the picture!

No amount of claying will get rid of the atmospheric dust that bonded itself into the paint as it cured. He shouldn't be painting outdoors but in an environment with as little dust as possible. Grit mars a smooth finish especially when there is so much of it.

You've seen how atmospheric dust and pollen immediately settles on a freshly cleaned black car. Now imagine him painting all that grunge into his final paint coat. Bleah. He cannot paint outdoors if he's going to avoid the grunge.

All I've ever painted is rust. After scraping and cleaning the area, Rustoleum's rust onverting primer and semigloss protective enamel hasn't failed me yet. For $10 total it's hard to beat for affordable shitbox rust protection in the Rust Belt of America. It doesn't look half bad either if you do it right.

This user is correct. The best that the average homeowner can do is the following: Clean garage as much as humanly possible, seal off the entire area around your car with a heavy plastic cover, have one box fan (with some kind of filtration taped on) blowing air in and another exhausting air out.

It still won't be as good as an actual paint clean-room and you'll still need to do fuckloads of sanding and wet-sanding to get a good looking finish but if you wanted to give it a shot then it's still possible to get a decent looking finish on your shitbox.

Dude you can just sand and buff the dust out and it will look like glass.
Most of the dust that lands on the surface of the paint can easily be removed once the paint has hardened.
When the paint is at this stage, not wet but not dry, still slightly tacky, it's called being "out of dust" and any dust or bugs that get stuck on the surface should not be touched until the paint is fully cured when it can simply be buffed or sanded and buffed out.
Source: I worked in a paint shop fur a year.

Can confirm the furfag's post. I've refinished wood gunstocks for years, getting dust out of a finish is as easy as buffing after each coat and quickly applying the next coat.

Make your own dust-free paint room like an MacGyver.

Reduce the grunge.

>you'll still need to do fuckloads of sanding and wet-sanding to get a good looking finish

If the paint is thick enough, then you can sand out all the grit and then buff (polishing compound) it smooth. Sure, it's not like a real paint shop dust-free room, but none of us can afford to make one of those with ventilation provided thru a HEPA filter. Or can you?

It would be amusing though if you tried it in your garage. Provided your big garage door is leaky or you crack the bottom of the garage door open 3/4 inch, you can pressurize the garage thru a HEPA.

At the door going inside the house, duct tape a big piece of cardboard over the opening. Parts of the cardboard fits into the door hinge area and taped on the backside of the door for firmer grip. A hole in the cardboard allows a big cheap box fan to blow air into the garage from the house. A big wide HEPA filter you buy from a warehouse shopping club is placed on the other side of the cardboard and the edges duct taped. It is firmly on held not just by tape but by air suction. Voila, you have a dust free garage after awhile as the dust is vented out. Of course, you vacuumed and let things settle first.

The cardboard can be stiffened up with some cheap thin wood strips like furring lathe or even picket fence material. A few horizontal strips across the cardboard that overlap with the edge of the door frame will stop the cardboard from blowing back inside the house. You will open a few windows in the house to allow air to enter the house.

VOILA. You have a fairly dust-free paint shop room for your car. It will take some time to stabilize as the dusty air at the beginning needs to be blown out thru the crack at the bottom of the garage door, so make it 2 inches wide at the start to get the dust out sooner. A bigger gap runs the risk of recirc at the opening. Then close it back down to 3/4 inch.

More people should learn from MacGyver.

The movement of air would also help the guy breath fresh air instead of paint fumes. All he needs to do is line up some cheap polyethylene painter's drop cloth along the walls to stop overspray from floating over.

I painted my third gen with tractor paint and a HVLP gun from harbor freight. Looked decent about 20 feet away, could have done better prep work. Spent about $300 all together.

Sounds like a lot of effort, especially when the paint is likely to have orange peel anyway and sanding and polishing will still be required.

>needs new paint

Why?

Did this, absolutely not worth the time and effort. Shit ton of sanding between coats, probably works better with an actual spray booth instead of a leaky ass barn.

>90-20

>90-20

In the case of the picture you posted, 90-20 seems to add up to 110% chance of being corrupt.

I painted this today, pls no bully.

patina looks cool on classics, shit on everything else

newfags can't triforce

>hoonigan actually stenciled on

Use Marine Paint, lot cheaper than auto paint and designed to last in saltwater.

>New Jersey

>he thinks it's from Zelda

Hoo boy.

>triforce

welcome to memetown, newfags

I do hope you have the means to paint it some other way because I'm pretty sure that wasn't intended to be popular forever, and I'm really sure any attempts at turning it into a franchise won't be as good as the original game.

>posting anything undertale related
Please stop posting anytime

>quoting /b/ memes, ever

Eric, simply eric.

Make me.

undertrash is normie as fuck
literally fnaf tier now

>Use Marine Paint, lot cheaper than auto paint and designed to last in saltwater.

Is Marine Paint ready to use on cars? Or does it require a different type of primer than Tractor Paint?

You don't need a primer you just need to scuff whatever substrate you're applying to with sandpaper or red scotch brite pads.
400-800 grit sandpaper will do ya fine.

Why did you do this faggot?

Does primer help it stick better on metal? I thought the metal bends and flexes in different weather conditions, so the paint would need all the help it can get to stick on.

You need primer on bare metal, if there's still factory paint on the car you don't need primer.
Any time there's bare metal you need primer, if there's no bare metal you don't need it.

>You need primer on bare metal, if there's still factory paint on the car you don't need primer.
>Any time there's bare metal you need primer, if there's no bare metal you don't need it.

I wish sanding things down was easier and faster. Renting a sandblaster gun might be fast except it would eat right thru any masking and scratch up the trim and windows.

what beach is that

Get a random orbital sander. Makes quick work of rubbing down old paint.

You even use it to wetsand and take out out orange peel from flat panels.
Just keep moving so you don't burn the paint. And have a spray bottle to spritz water for lubrication.

If you get a foam interface pad it works on rounded panels too.

6" or 150mm seems to be the standard size. But if you get a 4" or "5 one you can get in narrower places and a 6" pad still works on a 4" sander.

just sold my chevy astro for something bigger
goals my man

>We hand rolled house paint
It has to be a gloss paint for durability and not having so much dirt stick to it, right? Flat paint doesn't seem easily washable.

>Sounds like a lot of effort

If you re-read, doesn't sound like much effort or material cost at all. And the idea cleverly leverages what the person has for good effect.