QTDDTOT : Questions That Don't Deserve Their Own Thread

>The entire point of pushing in more air is so you can add more gas.
The trick is not adding said air during cruise situations, increasing MPG.

I'm not talking about a turbo installation, I'm talking about theoretical hrsepower and MPG merits of FI methods. Also, centrifugals generally need oil lines, unless they've got ancy bearings. Turbos with similar bearings also do not need oil lines.

Probably warped rotors. Does the brake pedal vibrate under light braking?
Figure out which end is making the noise and do those first.

Do you guys know where I can get a new clutch rotator? Mine doesn't work anymore.

Nonsense. There is not a single commercially available turbocharger without hydrodynamic bearings requiring a supply of oil.

Paxton, CAPA and Vortech all have models of centrifugal superchargers with a small sump containing their own lubricating oil. Raptor and CAPA further have belt drive overdrive transmissions available for some models which reduces the amount of oil retained as it is used only to lubricate the shaft bearings instead of a planetary transmission or chain.

>what are parts stores?
>what is the internet?
rockauto.com or o'reilys if you need a brick-and-mortar

Veeky Forums i screwed up

i wanted to see what was up w my brakes making noise

i took the wheel and drum off

the i fully depressed the brakes

brake fluid squirted everywhere according to who was watching the wheel and now the wheel cylinder is stuck on one end and the one pad is stuck extended

i cant put the drum back on or move the car

pls help

im panicking so hard rn

Open the bleed screw for this cylinder and use a compressor or g-clamp to compress the slave cylinder back to the rest position. Make sure you have opened the bleed screw (and have a line running from the bleed screw to a container) otherwise you compressing the slave cylinder may cause seal damage.

Re-tension the bleed screw and make sure there are no leaks from the slave cylinder. Bleed the braking system and refit the wheel.

Don't depress the brakes when they are in this state again.

you are retarded and my sides are gone
>plz don't be bait

is it worth modifying your car? I have a new car that seems would be fun to modify (i.e. bolt ons and tune -- nothing major) but would probably only hurt the value

I'm looking at an ’05 Mazda 3 with the 2.3 tomorrow. Anyone have experience with these cars? I've read they can develop an oil consumption issue but that's pretty much it.

>Don't depress the brakes when they are in this state again.

Okay, so I managed to get it back in. Things seem like they are working.

Wrt not depressing the breaks without the drum, is that because that cylinder doesnt have any stops for the rod things that are pushing the break pads out?

Given that things seem to be okay now, how can I assess if I did any damage?

not bait, glad my stupidity is a source of entertainment

I traded my 2014 Chevy Commodore for a 2016 Chevy Commodore so I could have three pedals instead of the autotragic. Net financial effect was starting over on payments.

In your opinion, was two years of lost payment history worth it?

I am a solid yes. The other midstream updates are nice, and I can see keeping this car a long time.

You'll either bottom out the slave cylinder and damage the seals, or bottom out the master cylinder and damage the seals.

If the brakes are leak free, feel firm under the pedal and braking power is restored then chances are you have done no damage.

would have been better to get a 2010-2014 manual car instead of a brand new one IMO. "net financial effect was starting over on payments". This means you lost two years worth of payments in two years? That's a pretty bad deal. Assuming you pay ~400/month, which is probably quite average, that's nearly $10000 lost in this "upgrade"

Okay, thanks. I don't know how I can assess if I've damaged the seals with the master cylinder. When you say slave cylinder do you mean the cylinder pushing the brake pads?

So now I'm just going to take it to a mechanic and tell him what I did. And I'll tell him to replace the brake cylinder because the part cost isn't too high. I don't know how to bleed my brakes, so I'll tell him to do that as well.

And then I'll be back to square one. I fucked today up pretty badly.

What's a good American equivalent to an Audi A4/BMW 3-series?

Chevy and Ford go from little hatch backs to muscle cars. Where are the quality sport/luxury sedans?

Cadillac has some offerings in the 4 door sport/lux.

My transmission in my truck slipped this morning, I was coming from a complete stop, I gave it gas and the rpms went up before the transmission caught. It doesnt do this when shifting gears and its happened twice now in the last month. Any ideas? Am I fucked?

No you haven't. Chances are that you've done no damage. Don't replace the slave cylinder (acting on the brake pad) if it doesn't require it. Bleeding is extracting air from the braking system.

I'm at work on swing, but if this thread is still kicking on I'll try and help further.

Don't stress it if there are no leaks and the brakes are working effectively.

Can I use flex seal to fix a leaking AC hose?

does anyone else "work" on their cars even though nothing needs fixed? I've been doing this for stress relief for awhile now. Most recently I've organized my cluster fuck of a wiring harness and made a new mount for my battery.

My car (2006 Corolla) has a recalled airbag in it. I've called a few stealerships to try to get them to fix it but they've all given me the runaround. I also don't really want to hand it over and be without a car for a month, and I don't want those assholes trying to scam me into a bunch of additional bullshit work.

What should I do?

Thanks.

How would I verify that the slave cylinder is okay? I drove the car briefly after the fuck up and the brakes seemed okay. Not any mushier or weaker than usual. Tomorrow I can drive it around again, apply the brakes properly a few times and open the wheel to see if the cylinder has any leaks... should that be enough?

Also I need to take it in to a mechanic because of the noise issue I mentioned earlier regardless... should I tell him about what I did? If he's a good guy he'll probably just check to see if there's anything wrong, but if its a shady guy he might try to get me to replace everything.

I guess I'll make the call when it comes down to it. I have to drive the car pretty far in a couple of days, including on the highway so I want the brakes to be in good shape.

If you tell the mechanic that you're a moron who doesn't know shit about working on cars he'll find a whole list of problems to fix.

You should be able to call any Toyota dealerships and have them take in the car for recall work. They can get into a fuckload of trouble if they don't deal with recall notices, especially something as serious as an airbag issue.

Just call, ask for parts and service and tell them straight up you have a recall notice and you'd like to schedule an appointment. I'm really surprised they're trying to dodge the work -- if you really can't get anywhere, call a Toyota head office or something and escalate this. Its serious shit m8.

Just say that you removed the wheel and drum to inspect the shoes but couldn't find the source of your noise. What's concerning is that you've said brake fluid was already expelled when you depressed the brake pedal - that had to have come from somewhere. Best case the seal was displaced on the slave cylinder at the end of it's travel and there is nothing further of concern. Worst case is the seal is compromised and it either needs repair or the slave cylinder replaced.

What sort of noise are the brakes making?

>Worst case is the seal is compromised and it either needs repair or the slave cylinder replaced.
Yeah, this is my concern, and why I'm debating letting the mechanic know depending on whether I think they are trustworthy. Wish I had a mechanic I could legit trust; I wouldn't have bothered inspecting it myself at all if I did.

>What sort of noise are the brakes making?
Its hard to describe the sound. Its not a grinding or a scraping noise. Its more like a mix of a creaking and thudding sound like when you're walking on old wood flooring.

But it only happens when I apply the breaks when driving and the noise is related to the wheels spinning -- the creak sound happens when the wheels turn so its rapid at first, then slows down as the car slows to a stop.

There's no excessive vibration or really anything else to note when I'm just driving normally without hitting the brakes.

What happened to the Aussie threads? Were they banned?

dirty hooner detected

rubber hose?
no.

The creak or squeal is most likely the shoe surface becoming glazed. May not be much of an issue.

The thudding sounds more like a drum slightly out of the round. If it is a 'pulsing' sound that increases with speed and decreases rate with deceleration, perhaps accompanied by a slight pulsing feel through the brake pedal, then it's very likely this is the cause.

Hop into your car and fire up the engine to get sufficient vacuum assistance for the brakes. Slowly (SLOWLY) depress the pedal to the floor, then let it return. Hop out and inspect the area around the slave cylinder in question for leaks. Do this a number of times.

If you can put the system under pressure a number of times without a leak, it's very likely that you require no further action.

It's all good man, even with a good mechanic you should do exactly what you have done and familiarise yourself with the systems that make up your car. And you've learnt some good skills from this episode. Bet you won't depress the brake pedal with the drum removed again!

Questions about manual trannys

>is it normal to feel the whirring of the clutch and flywheel through the clutch pedal?
>is it normal that the shifter gets stuck when going to first rarely and I have to declutch in neutral to get it to work?
>is there transmission fluid and do I have to change it?
>is it normal for the car to shake when shifting from first to second?

often yes
no
yes, every 5 years or so, in my experience, though they can go for much longer
lol no

Without an accumulator yes, it is normal to feel the feedback from the throwout bearing.

It can be normal to not be able to access first when moving. First is usually a non-synchonised gear.

There is a lubricating gear oil. Pop open the filler plug and sound the transmission. If there is sufficient oil and it is still a honey-brown colour then all should be well. If it is a dark colour with an acrid burnt smell, replace. If if it over five years like old mate suggested, replace.

Does the car shake, or is there a 'juddering' sound from the flywheel?

Alright. I really appreciate the help and advice, thanks dude.

With my car you can't shift into first unless you're going slow enough. I don't know why but but the 'getting stuck' thing sounds like no synchro. That happens to me when I reverse, I often need to declutch in neutral before it lets me pop it in

>no
Shit. It only happens when I'm "putting it in park" to be honest, which is uphill.
>yes, every 5 years or so, in my experience, though they can go for much longer
Well I have no idea when it was last done and this is a 13 year old car so I should probably check that.
>lol no
Double shit. If I give it any more RPMs than 2000 when in first and push the clutch in the whole car will buck once or twice like it's struggling.

>There is a lubricating gear oil. Pop open the filler plug and sound the transmission. If there is sufficient oil and it is still a honey-brown colour then all should be well. If it is a dark colour with an acrid burnt smell, replace.
I'll have that checked out soon then.
>Does the car shake
Very much so. I clutch in and the whole car practically rocks onto the front wheels and then rocks back a bit.

Yea if I'm going at like 5mph I can shift into first but otherwise I'll go to second and give it a touch of gas and slowly declutch.

Why do my gear synchros wear out so quickly? I'm only 3,000 miles in, and the shifting already feels rougher.

eBay lowering springs

should I get them or no? what are good brands

Too easy man!

Sounds like you have a snapped or otherwise deformed spring pack or snapped a weight in your friction plate. Unfortunately that's like a box-off job man. Hopefully I'm wrong, but that's certainly sounding like it. Is it any better slowly declutching?

There's other possible reasons your shifting has become noticeably rougher. I'd first be looking at the master cylinder pushrod length to make sure the clutch is being fully released. If the pressure plate and friction plate or friction plate and flywheel are still connected even slightly, it will usually present itself as a crunch or feeling unusually notchy when selecting gear.

Bump

Tell me why I shouldn't get a Mazda 3 hatch.

>looks like batmobile omg

Are cars for the Canadian market differently spec'd?

Like some say US version Lexus IS and I get confused there. So that means, Canada gets the Asian/European spec car?

Yes it's specd differently but, it's specd for the Canadian market,

Will Cutlass Ciera and Buick Century doors fit on a Pontiac 6000?

Are B5/6 quattro Audis with 1.8T reliable? Or can you give me an alternative turbocharged RWD/AWD on continental European market for the same money?

Put it on jack stands and grab hold of your wheel in question
Rock it back and forth with quite a bit of force and see if there's any play
This would rule out some bushings being worn or wheel bearing needing replacement

don't cheap out on parts that could easily fail when going over a pothole

Any way I can get one of those Toyota steel 'workmate' beds in the USA for a '92? I fell in love with the side folding beds from the Sambar and want one for my truck.

Whats a fair price to get coilovers installed? All the shops around here want like 500 which is almost as much as the coils themselves. They also claim it will take 5-6 hours to do which seems like complete bullshit especially when you have really high end tools to use.

those look aluminum

doing it right, and setup, absolutely.

Some are steel, some are aluminum.
I love that the walls and gate fold down so it's easy to put things in all around or if lifted a little could make an okay light use workbench.

Buick Regal GS, Taurus SHO, Dodge Charger SRT? American makers don't have much in the way of sport/luxury

that is nice. hope you get one soon

Not a question, but doesn't deserve it's own thread.

they are very slow with an outdated engine

Badump

Anyone else?

Which power adder gets the most net hp out of a given bottom end, and which is most fuel efficient during cruise?

Does anyone know what car this is?

>screencap is from stranger things

~70's Ford Pinto

thank you friend

So Veeky Forums. I went to change my rear brake pads and my caliper is seized something fierce. I can't get another caliper until Wednesday, so here's my question.

How retarded would it be to put a bolt and nut through the banjo fitting so it can't leak, and drive with one non-functional brake.

I haven't really done any car work myself, do I have a shot at installing a cold air intake in my Civic Si or will I get stuck and have to get it towed to a mechanic and tell them I'm a retarded fag

Went to bed and went to work, just got back to this thread

>Unfortunately that's like a box-off job man.
Fuck me sideways
>Hopefully I'm wrong, but that's certainly sounding like it. Is it any better slowly declutching?
Yea a lot better. It basically goes like this

>go into first gear
>acceleration peaks at about 10mph or ~2000 RPM
>clutch in
>car rocks onto front wheels
>shift into second
>declutch and gas
>shake like if I made a bad start from stop

what car is in this video?

vid.me/VYgZ

How do you "launch" with a manual?

>clutch in
>rev high
>move foot to the left so clutch jumps up

Probably a really stupid question but i'm looking to buy my first car. Would the engine on a Ford Fiesta 1.4 ZETEC TDCI (2010) with 100,000 miles generally speaking going to be ok for say another 5 or so years of casual use? Im estimating i'll do less than 4000 miles a year.

I know each car is different but most would be fine with this milage?

Anything under 150k miles should be fine. If it isn't, there's something seriously wrong.

Ok thanks.

Just figured I'd update and say I plugged it. I got a bolt, two washers, a nut, and some sealant to put on the threads and washers. I had someone push the brake pedal as I cranked the nut and bolt tight.

I just pushed the fuck out of the brake pedal and no leaks, I drove around slowly and made sure everything worked. I think itll be good until Wednesday.

Been thinking of putting glass packs on my car just for the hell of it. Would it be too much of a hassle to try to put them on/have them put on? Guy before me put a magnaflow dual exhaust on the car, now theres like 1.5-2 feet of straight pipe to work with

Recently there was a thread where the OP image was like a 1939 car survey thing? It had like 20+ cars all facing towards the bottom left, kind of like an isometric thing. Anyone have the image if you even know what I'm talking about?

Is a motorcycle helmet something I can just order or should I go to a shop or something to test fit and sizing?

...

Can anyone help me figure out why my car wont start? Have fuel but no spark, brand new dizzy, new cap, new plug wires, new plugs, new battery, new alt, new starter, got a flashing CEL when key is on, engine cranks and has fuel, all fuses are good, has compression in all cylinders, car is an 88 civic dx. Still dpfi, still obd0, thanks in advance

What car

maybe fuel pump?
I saw a video where a guy thought his fuel pump might not be good because the car wouldn't start so he tested it by using starter fluid. The car started when he sprayed that shit, so he determined it was the pump that wasn't working. Try that I guess

Why the fuck is it that whenever I go to an auto parts store looking for something for my 97 Jeep Grand Cherokee, they give me the wrong thing?

Both the tweeter and woofer on the front left side of my Mazda 6 2008 are really really quiet. Probably wiring?

hey guys I want to put a touchscreen stereo in my 1997 geo metro, I've found the double-din ones that are compatible with my vehicle but I was curious if there's anything else it would require such as more electrical power since it's an older car or if everything will be fine. thank you.

Have you tried the coils?

I have fuel, also tested with starter fluid

thats the exact symptom of a warped disk, but since pads are cheap and easy, I'd replace them first, probably got to do it anyway.
If it is a warped disc (rotor), its probably only one. You should be able to tell by spinning the wheels, one by one, with tire removed to see which one rubs. When you find it, remove rotor and check for visible warpage or use straight edge. if it seems straight, switch rotor with the opposite wheel to see if the problem switched sides. If it stays on the same wheel with a different disc, then you probably gotta replace that wheel bearing, which you probably wanna have someone do, cause its a bitch.

(also bear in mind that some brake pads are designed to rumble when ceramics are worn to act as an indicator that you need to change pads)

cont'd... ok if its like that video its not just the pads... do that other shit. or at least try to identify the exact wheel so they cant screw you by replacing all your rotors and maybe calipers for no good reason

check tranny fluid level... maybe change tranny fluid. if that doesn't help... yeah, you may be fucked