Car stereo thread

Sounds like it's fucked up I'd call pioneer and tell em.

I have a Kia Forte and the speakers are worse than the ones in my fiesta were. I should really upgrade.... Something

Yeah dude I called pioneer and they're doing some bullshit training so none of their techs are available.

Is Pioneer shit?

Fucking poo in loo moron with Infinity's tech service just tried to tell me that the amp is overheating because it is rated at 45 watts rms per channel and my speakers are rated at 55 watts.

Stupid fuck, that 55 watt rating is the maximum thermal rating of the speaker. The 45 watt rating is the maximum output of the amp per channel.

Should have bought a real amp.

>Fucking poo in loo moron with Infinity's tech service just tried to tell me that the amp is overheating because it is rated at 45 watts rms per channel and my speakers are rated at 55 watts.
wow that's fucking retarded and hilarious coming from the tech dept

Kicker DC122 double 12 in my trunk

CX Series mono subwoofer amplifier

stock bose speakers.

2008 Chevy Impala SS

Yeah but then I would have to upgrade the speaker wires. It is a little Impreza, I'm not trying to rattle it apart.

I called him the fuck out on it.

>Have you upgraded your stereo?
No. I set up the equaliser, and it sounds pretty good as it is. I don't need to rip out wiring and plumb the ports and buttons and speakers back in just for some more bass.
Not when it's already using the floorpan of the car as a speaker. If I turn it up too far, the vibrations put my feet to sleep before the sound quality goes.

Shouldn't have bought a Kia...

>not buying a car with a great system already installed

Aftermarket deck, hertz speakers in the front, jl's in the back and two pioneer championship series 12's in the back.

Pretty loud and clean so I like it

Pioneer head unit with infinity speakers and a 15in ported sub in the back, shit bangs 2bh with u

You cannot be this retarded

What's the point of upgrading when yiu are still a peasant streaming music through Spotify in .mp3 format?

You cannot be this poor.

i used to have a JVC kva double din touchscreen head unit

i had a 500wrms alpine monoblock amplifier and 2 e type alpine 10 inch subs @ 250wrms each in a sound ordinence sealed bock

PROTIP: IF IT SAYS MAX POWER X AMOUTN OF WATTS TAKE THAT VALUE AND CUT IT IN HALF AND THATS YOUR ACTUAL SPEAKER OUTPUT ALWAYS GO OFF OF THE WATTS IN RMS

stock stereo master race

>he thinks OEM audio can ever compete with aftermarket

>spending an extra 3000 on premium audio

or you can buy after market, thats twice as good and you can hear from two blocks away.

For literally half the price

Are your wheels over 20 inches too?

>I can play my trap music louder om these speakers that means it's better quality
You heard it here first guys

Did not expect you to say that for some reason. Do you know what the thread is about? Because those sound like shit.

I bet you buy beats by dre

Car audio "enthusiasts", everyone.

>not buying based skullcandies

same sound, 1/10 the price

So you think those sound good?

Not really, but I haven't found anything better for $10

What's the point when you don't play music through a dedicated device in .flac or another lossless format?

>kicker L7 2x12 subwoofer and Focal speakers in my BMW.
>kicker L7 2x12 subwoofer
>BMW
Stereotypes are real sometimes

Holy shit, are you this retarded? I bet you don't know shit about how audio devices work, through what device did you think about playing your lossless music?

Then you don't know shit about audio or the audio market.

teach me

Dedicated devices have a better DAC 90% of the time.
>inb4 "I-I knew that! I was talking about something else!" as you Google what a DAC even is

Yeah, so get one and get out of car audio with that waste of money shit.

>he thinks you can hear the difference between 320 and FLAC/wav
Wow.
Just stop posting any time.

I have one already I just think it's stupid for you guys to spend hundreds/thousands on car audio when you listen to mp3s

>implying you can hear the difference between a 50 cent or a 10 dollar DAC chip
Guess what, you can't lmao

>poorfag tries to justify his inferior audio codec
If you can't hear the difference in .flac and .mp3 when listening to MPP yout must not have working ears

first post best post

I've got the following in my Scirocco R

>Audison AV5.1k
>Audison Bit Ten D
>Audison AVBITIN
>Audison AV12
>Audison FSK700
>DynAudio 242GT

It's well known that the difference cannot be heard, try downloading the foobar ABX comparator, download the latest lame codec and convert a lossless file to MP3 320 and compare to FLAC with the double blind foobar plugin, I guarantee you won't pass.
Many people have tried and failed even with 1000 dollar headphones.

My car has 6-speaker JBL

>I'm a plebs and other people are plebs and we all agree that you can't tell the difference
The same kind of fuccboi that can't tell the difference between sprite and 7up

>foobar
>implying I use windows
You're doing a number on my sides kid

Take the test and report back to me, I'll be waiting.
(You won't, you're a bitch and you won't be able to tell)

I can hear the difference between my CD rips (flac) and mp3 downloads from the same album. Regardless .ogg is the superior format if you insist on being a peasant and sticking to lossy audio codecs. mp3s are deprecated kid

"MP3 downloads"
What bit rate?

320. I thought you said it """didn't matter""" though

Also you're comparing a CD to a download, they could be different version of the same song, different masters etc.
You must compare the same song, that's why you start with a lossless file and convert it yourself before doing the test.

I never said it doesn't matter, go ahead and quote me.
Obviously bit rate matters.
You'd have to be a fucking idiot to think otherwise.

Suddenly I have to jump through hoops and use shit tier audio equipment for me to not hear the difference. You are really starting to convince me now

I was half joking with that comment. I didn't spend a dime on it, the foolish original owner did. It's actually $6,000 over the standard audio system. I was just happy to snap it up on the secondary market for essentially no charge. My car cost less than similar examples with either standard audio/Bose shit.

You have absolutely no idea what you're talking about. The fiberglass mids and ribbon tweeters are fucking godly. Sound isn't relegated to 12 inch subs.

nah, tires are only 18R idk about the rims

>use shit tier equipment
You must convert the lossless file to lossy or you'll never know what you're comparing, are you fucking retarded?
I never said anything about using different physical equipment either.
You can use whatever you want to do the comparison I don't care, it ain't gonna help you anyways.
Like I said this ABX test is nothing new, if you look online you'll notice there are zero documented cases of people successfully telling the difference.
The only time you can hear a difference is during the presence of a killer sample, go ahead and look that up too.
Even then you have to listen to the same snippet over and over and a-b compare to hear it.
I already know you won't do a proper ABX comparison, like I said you're a bitch.

>The only time you can hear a difference is during the presence of a killer sample, go ahead and look that up too.
So beforw you said it doesn't matter, now you are saying it does matter. That is some serious back pedaling

>fiberglass mids and ribbon tweeters are god tier
Bruh you can't generalize like that, there are good and bad of every kind of speaker.

Currently running a Nakamichi NSX 12" in a trwc box, off a crescendo BC200d.

Pumps pretty hard already but will be upgrading the coil so I can run it at 1 ohm.

Killer samples are extremely rare and hard to detect, there is a section on hydrogen audio of autists posting them when they find them, posting them allows the codec creators to fix the issue in the later version of the codec, which is why it's important to use the most up to date version of LAME.

So if I need to get the .flac or other lossless version to make a clean mp3 copy why not just stop after I download the flac?
>"m-muhh HDD space"
I'm not a poorfag who measures his hard drive space in megabytes

No, I have one of the best stock car stereos ever.

Fpbp

that is fucking awesome.

this is the thread I needed.

I just bought these JBL 6x9 speakers (amazon.com/JBL-GTO938-9-Inch-3-Way-Loudspeaker/dp/B003KN2TGM/ref=pd_rhf_gw_p_img_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=QBDTWC4KSN6FBDE20BFN) and the sound is incredible, but I need to crank the fuck out of them in my truck because I am both 20 and I enjoy basketball-bass.

it definitely sounds harsh at the top of the range, and my pioneer deck puts out 14w RMS per channel which is not nearly enough for the advertised rating of 100w RMS for these speakers.

my questions are, what is the lowest safest RMS 2 or 4channel amp I can run, and what is a good small compact amp?

would this work, and work with my head unit?

amazon.com/dp/B01EWRQLOA/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2DSV3ZMZA3QSN&coliid=I2H4PW015IQVV9

You need the FLAC for proper testing, this has nothing to do with storage. This is only fur testing.

That's why I said "the". I was talking about the speakers in my car, the highs and mids are insanely clear and beyond any custom system I've had in the past. You just can't get the same response from cone style speakers no matter the brand/design/materials/cost.

>You just can't get the same response from cone style speakers no matter the brand/design/materials/cost.
Don't make claims like this, it's just ignorant.
They may be good speakers but there are going to be better ones.
It's a matter of balance, no speaker is perfect, it all depends on your needs and the application.

>90W+ RMS
>$60
I wouldn't. You should look at used amps if you're on a budget.

What kind of sub should I put in my miata? I have kicker door speakers but they cant put out much bass. Someone recommended a 6x9 and a 500 watt amp? Is that enough or overkill?

Had a single 12" Interfire sub and a 600w kenwood amp in my 2012 Focus Hatch. Traded that '12 hatch for a '15 sedan and traded the sub off to a buddy. thought about getting a sub for this one but in a few years i'm gonna trade it for a used ST so i'll prolly wait

This reminds me
> friend has gmc suburban
> puts 16x kicker 12s in 2 big sealed boxes in the back
> on "6000" watts
> only 2 lead acid batteries
> drops to 9volts and shuts truck off
Its pretty loud did a 146.6db on an spl meter
> be me
> single soundqubed hdc4
> 3500 true watts
> 4 agm batteries, stock alt
> drops to 11.8v after 3mins at full volume
> 150db with driver door open
Amazing how so many people still think kickers are the best

6x9 isn't a sub, that's a full range speaker.
Door speakers aren't really supposed to handle bass, you're supposed to use a high pass filter to strip the bass and send that to the sub.
As fur where to put a sub in a miata, trunk is really your only option, if you look in the trunk on an NA (idk about NB), youll notice there's a tunnel on the passenger side that goes into the cabin, inside the cabin that tunnel is blocked off with a thin metal plate.
You could probably cut a hole in that plate and put something over it like black cloth or something so it looks cleaner, that should allow some of the bass from the trunk into the driver area.

no one cares.

what about me? i use 4 gauge wire with a 200 watt amp and tube sub

Thanks for contributing

I replaced all my speakers with Alpine Type-S.
My amp recently shat itself, front left speaker doesn't work anymore.
Infinity a shit, recommend me a well priced class D amp.

warranty that shit bro

Warranty was 3 years, it went out 2 months after the 3 year mark lol...

Did you try turning the gain knob?
Those get dirty and fucked up sometimes and you need to clean them.

I've tried, same shit.
I moved the speaker wire to a different channel and my speakers work just fine. My amp is shit.
So Alpine or Kenwood for my next amp?

sadface
2BH senpai I use a jbl amp I got from the thrift store, it works ok and didn't cost much.
Fur the sub amp I bought a shitty dual class d off amazon, beat on that bitch every day and it's still going strong.

oops not a thrift store, pawn store lol.

I'm using a 5 channel amp lol, the sub I'm using is only 250w and does enough.

Don't do car audio anymore. Last build I was gonna do years back I just turned into my PC speakers. Now I just run stock audio in the car.

Used to run it off the car amp hooked up to a 60amp rectifier but just switched to 2 daytonaudio amps. 1 runs the 6x9s in stereo the other is bridged to the sub.

>>soundqubed hdc4

My nigga. Box specs?

I've been running an hds3@1500rms for a few years now in a 2.5cu box. Best sub I've ever owned.

18" in roughly 5.5cu ft was tuned @ 38hz currently have half the port blocked off, tuned around 30
Ive had the sub about a year now and its just starting to loosen up the hdc4s take along time to break in, they dont like to play under 35hz much when new. The carbon fiber dustcap helps a little with the lows though
Old pic from when I was working on it overall its been a great sub so far

So should I get an 8 inch? And yep the trunk is where I plan to put it. By the tunnel

two 12" kicker compvrs in a ported kicker enclosure, a cheap fucking 2000 watt amp running on 2 ohms, a sony xplod headunit, and some cheap door speakers from crutchfield. It is meh, but I'm comparing it to the sound systems on my friends' boats. It is funny how $12k can buy you high fidelity audio that sounds good up to half a mile away to piss off all the faggot fishermen.

Lol ! JBL is a piece of shit

No, get a 12''

it is possible to find high quality sounding speakers with good bass so you dont have to buy a sub at all? just wondering because I'm not sure how I feel with a box just taking up room in the trunk.

no, but soon. will. gonna rip out the Nokia DSP sound unit since no matter what ill do. it won't work correctly with any after market stereo.
im getting an annoying, nasty alternator whine.

so gonna rip that shit out and install new speaker cables to the ISO plug.

then i have an MB e320 ( w210 model ) with the original satnav package which i need to find something to swap out that AUX cable for a bluetooth one.

Lastly im unsure what i wanna do with the 1992 volvo 945.