How long do you warm your car up for before taking off?

10 seconds, but I run conventional 5w-30.

>Wait until RPM settles down to a regular idle speed
>drive off slowly and never go above 3k rpm until it gets within operating temperature.
It heats up pretty nicely, I will however leave an extra 15-20minutes early when it's -40 outside in order to make sure my car gets to operating temperature... Otherwise it won't. (I live 10minutes from work)

That pic is cumfy as fuck

Aluminum 5.0 coyote with 5W-20, I wait as long as it takes for my aftermarket nav head unit to boot up and connect bluetooth to my phone so I can play my music. So.. about 30 seconds.

Until the idle comes down to 1000rpm or so.

I warm the bike up until it doesn't need any choke to idle correctly.

Slow the first minute, then between 2000-4000 rpm, and maximum WOT when the oil hits 80°c.

s54 with 10w-60 btw

10 seconds when it's warm out. 3-5 minutes in the winter. Sometimes longer when it's well below zero.
4.0L i6, Iron block & head, 5w30

5 minutes cold
60-90 seconds warm (until it stops sounding like its about to drop a rod)

I start it and walk back inside to drink my coffee
5w-30 syn
4.7L Jeep with 250k and bad lifters

I'll admit I let mine warm up to slightly below driving temps. Reason is I live/work right by on ramps so I will bang out the 1-2 and 2-3 and prefer it to be warmed up if I'm approaching redline

Start up, put in gear, drive off.

I just googled this to see if what people were saying in this thread jived with reality (I am not a diehard car guy but just like to lurk Veeky Forums).

Sounds like you are all doing it wrong. Pic related literally first result. Second result was from popularmechanics saying the same thing.

5 seconds on a summer day, and just keep revs and load down till it's up to temperature in 2 or 3 minutes. 60~ seconds on a winter day and drive with low revs and load until it's up to temperature in about 10 minutes.

>mfw my mom used to warm her car up for 20 minutes every winter morning

From the article:

> During the 1980s and into the early 1990s, however, the auto industry did away with carburetors in favor of electronic fuel injection, which uses sensors to supply fuel to the engine and get the right air and fuel mix. This makes the problem of warming up the car before driving irrelevant, because the sensors monitor and adjust to temperature conditions.

> Idling in winter thus has no benefit to your (presumably modern) car. Auto experts today say that you should warm up the car no more than 30 seconds before you start driving in winter. "The engine will warm up faster being driven," the EPA and DOE explain. Indeed, it is better to turn your engine off and start it again than to leave it idling.

I don't because it doesn't get cold where I live and I don't have to do any serious revving before it does heat up

15 seconds or so. That's about how long it takes me to shift to neutral and let the car roll down my driveway. If it's cold, 30 seconds. 5w30 synth

Both ways I never go above 2500 RPMs until I reach operating temps.

>turn key over
>car starts
>idle speed is 1300 rpm
>drops by 100 rpm every 5 seconds until it hits idle at about 900 rpm
>wat

Until the rocker arms stop clicking.
Usually one to two minutes, enough time to get properly setup for driving.

I dreive when oil pressure goes up to normal levels

I rev my shit up to redline for a good minute after reaching sub zero (celcius) temps the night before.

Also, my bearings keep wearing out and I had to rebuild my engine the 3rd time this month, anyone know what's going on?

Nice try Satan

I'm not gonna expose my poor crank bearings to high load without my oil being close to optimal work temperature, no matter what an interblog-article says.

Maybe the magnets on your oil lines have fell off, not even the best oil will stick to engine parts if it's demagnetized

>This thread
Your engine by FAR suffers the most wear when it's cold, what you're doing by letting it warm up is drastically prolonging how long it stays in that state and driving it while shifting reasonably (half of redline max) and not going WOT is absolutely nothing compared to how badly you'd wear it if you just let it hang around 800rpm cold for extended periods.

tldr: don't wait for it to warm up, wait 30 seconds to a minute and drive sensibly until it warms up.

>tfw it finally gets warm right as you get to work

Old carbeurated car:
>winter: few minutes
>summer: 30 seconds

Fuel injected car:
>winter: 30 seconds
>summer: 30 seconds

Irrespective of those times, I don't get on it until the oil temp is up to where it needs to be, then I can rape the RPM's as needed w/o worry.

Alfa Romeo recommends 10 minutes of idle with choke on on the 2.0L TwinCam engine.
The block is aluminum but the 6 quarts of oil take a while to warm up.
Also, oil pressure is scary low when cold.

Anywhere from 2 to 5 minutes, depending on whether it's summer or winter. That's how long it takes for the idle to drop to 1500 RPM.

Also,
>piston slap when cold

Some EFI cars raise the engine RPM upon a cold start to warm the engine up quicker.

My 323 does it, my grandmother's '06 Corolla goes up to like three grand on a cold start etc.

Think of it as a fast idle.

zero

It's better to drive it, low revs, than letting it idle.

In the winter? Until the air coming out of the vents is warm.

In the summer? Until the air coming out of the vents is cool.

If it's warm out (65*F+) a minute or so.
>close choke about half of what I do in cold weather
>let idle for a minute or two
>pull choke out a bit
>drive easy on it or it'll backfire out the carb
>open choke fully

50*F or under?
>close choke most of the way, obviously more the colder it is
>3-5 minutes or until she feels like it
>push choke cable in most of the way
>drive easy on it till heater blows warm
>open choke all the way
Such is manual choke life of a 5.7 liter v8.

Yeah fuck you satan, in freezing weather oil viscocity is fucked, and fuck the EPA's recommendations, I'm not about to freeze my nuts off before driving off, I'll let it idle for a little while first.

That's cool, Canadabro here, the 4.8 in my 03 silverado is still running happily at 489,000km, I've let it idle until warm everyday in winter without a block heater.

l live in Winterland and have no block heater because all that is available to my model is the radiating block heater which a mechanic flat out admitted being a waste of money. Car just sits in snow.

l let it idle for about 30 seconds in neutral. Heater off as it takes warmth from the block. Then l drive at a comfy 3k.

l'd like to find some solution for next winter. l wonder if those blankets have any effect.

I'm sorry but you guys are just wrong, it's actually hurting the engine.

businessinsider.com/heres-what-idling-your-car-in-the-morning-is-doing-to-your-engine-and-its-not-good-2016-1

> We spoke with former drag racer Stephen Ciatti — who has a PhD in mechanical engineering from the University of Wisconsin-Madison — about the pervasive myth that you need to warm up your car in the winter.

> For the last 26 years, Ciatti has worked on combustion engines — engines that generate power from burning fuel, like gasoline — and currently oversees all of the combustion engine work at Argonne National Laboratory in Illinois.

> To get straight to the point, Ciatti said that idling your car in the cold not only wastes fuel, but it's also stripping oil from critical components that help your engine run, namely the cylinders and pistons.

Can confirm. My MR2's 4AGE will idle at about 12-1400 when cold and will settle itself down to 700-850 when warm. Waiting for EFI cars to warm up is silly.

I'm & this is me explaining how I do it >you guys are just wrong

kek

>it's also stripping oil from critical components that help your engine run, namely the cylinders and pistons

I though you said this guy had a PhD in mechanical engineering

A lot of people reccommend not letting it idle forever, but rather driving easy on it until it is warmed up. That's basically what I try to do but 2.3L I4 with 5w-20 is warm by the time I get to the on ramp anyway. If you idle forever in real cold weather, that bitch will never get to temp and it will be running on cold oil for awhile.

If you have a remote start and want the car toasty for your commute, just let it idle. I used to live in Chicago and it sucks getting into a cold car when it is -10F in the morning and your hair is still wet from the shower.

Until the RPM and turbo settle down, and then after the lifters stop clacking, at which point simply pulling away and pulling first out of the apartment and then off the sliproad brings the car to optimum temperature.

Piston clearances and other tolerances are calculated/designed for a small range of operating temperatures. Wear and loss both usually reach their smallest values (global minimums) in this temperature range. Reversely, a cold engine will suffer from bigger wear.
Of course a regular user will rarely notice an effect. As long as the cold engine does not experience high loads the higher* wear will be negligible.
Lubricant supply during idle is designed to meet the minimum requirement**.

*Remember that 0,011 is bigger than 0,01. Even if it's negligible in practice, it's still higher on paper.
**Given that the responsible persons aren't idiots.

>-40 with block heater
>warm up for 15 min
>needle hasn't moved and still blowing cold air
>canada

Block part of your radiator

It all goes through the rad, cardboard winter fronts only do so much

No, block the RADIATOR not the grille
>tilt radiator back
>use duct tape to affix a piece of plastic sheeting that blocks half of the radiator
>no longer over-cooled

I do my man, I slip that cardboard literally right in front of my rad, it's hard to warm a 4 banger in -40 with an engine bay that could fit a v8

Mazda has a dash light now for that, a blue temp symbol. When it disappears, you can drive.

Idling does not warm up the transmission, and it's pretty slow at warming up the engine.

Just drive, but keep the RPMs below 2000 for the first few minutes until the coolant temp needle starts to rise, and don't rev the engine until the oil temp needle starts to rise. If your car only has a coolant temp needle, be aware that the oil takes longer to reach temperature.

My grandpa smoked and didn't die of lung cancer so cigarettes must be safe

Until the RPM drops to a normal idle in the summer, 15ish seconds in winter due to using an engine heater

Never, since I live on an island.

You live in a land where temperatures sit around 200F?

No, I live in a place which averages about 90 F, but since the impact on my vehicle's engine is minimal and since I don't hoon when going to work, it's not a bother for me.

inline radiator heater. or oil heater.

Something similar to this, I wait until my RPMs drop below 1000, usually takes about a minute or two

I don't, I'm always late for work

This is the only correct answer.

>having air conditioning
faggot

Not at all because nothing isn't fuel injected anymore.

Same here

My car has a noticeable automatic choke, so I wait until the idle drops to normal.

I dont, I drive on lower RPM's until it warms up and then just drive normally.

I wait ten seconds or so and just drive low rpm for the mile to the main road.

>Until the air coming out of the vents is cool.

You're gonna wait awhile especially is its a small 4 banger. In fact, it might not even get cold if you dont actually drive the car to spin the damn compressor up.

When it gets really cold (40F) I wait a minute or two.

30 seconds or after the needle drops below 1500, just like my manual says.

>what is bore wash

when a fuel injected car is cold, it is squirting more gasoline in the cylinders to help warm up the engine. think of it as a computer-controlled choke.

all this extra gas is cleaning the piston/cylinder of lubricating oil.

+1

start, 1500rpm
after 20s, 1000rpm = go

>what is adding some 2 stroke oil to your gas in the winter

no matter the weather i run it til it idles down to below 1k rpm and wait about 4 minutes

>2 stroke oil

+ catalytic converter.

Fail.

i have no heater

I know that game.
Former Downers Grove fella,now in Orlando area.

Wouldn't the higher rpm lead to the oil pump pumping more oil and compensate?

If it's just a richer mixture I would argue it would be negligible.

My bike does this. Operating idle RPM is 1300, but on a cold day it will start at 3000 until it's warmed up. On a normal day it starts at 2000 and I warm it up until it gets back to 1300, in about 30-45 seconds.

>having catalytic converter

Fail.

Not true. I have a 4cyl and the ac gets cold in 30 seconds. After a heat soak it gets cold almost instantly

I usually keep it below 2K RPMs when cold, no idle time, when the coolant temps get around ~180 is when I let it rev a little

Most of the time that's when I'm reaching my on ramp on my way to work

I warm it up because I don't want to drive in a fucking freezer when it's below zero. Everyone does this where it's cold.