Whaddup Veeky Forums, just got an 07 Mazdaspeed 3. So I'm finally learning manual...

sorry for ass quality

Picture of mine

Fuck yeah. welcome to the mazdaspeed club. if you plan to mod, get an accessport, high pressure fuel pump internals, and replace your mounts. also, use Rotella T6 synthetic oil all day erryday.

>Mazdaspeed 3

Another fucking "hot" hatch thread?

Hatches are for manchildren and women.

Return to your cave, Grug.

Gen 1 is best gen user. I love my MS3. It's fast as fuq, torque steer isn't even that bad, and it's fun to drive on twisty roads. Such an underrated car, it's possibly the best FWD hot hatch you can buy.

And Europoors

Mazdaspeed3 or Mazdaspeed6 - which is better, and why?

I am leaning towards the 6 because AWD, but the "every single thing will break, mounts will fail and then your transaxle will explode, and your engine will die at 100k" memes I read on some of the forums are scary. Can any owners confirm or deny?

OP, don't boost in high gears, downshift if you want to overtake. Also, dont shift in the 2500-3000 rpm range, make sure you are making full boost when you shift. 3000 rpms is when it hits max boost. I shift my MS6 and MS3 at around 2000 rpm, which gives it some fuel economy and smooths out the ride. If you shift before boost, you'll notice better economy as well.

Also, replace your air intake as soon as possible. Corksport makes an amazing ram air intake that vastly improves power and economy, though you may need a new tune for it.

Those are some tough fucking wheels

I've driven the Mazdaspeed 6 extendedly. If you dont shift at 2500-3000 range (Obv, you can go above 3000 lmao), you'll be fine. Don't boost at high gears, downshift. And when you launch an MS6, please, PLEASE dont do it above 4000 rpm's.

In its entirety, I love the Mazdaspeed 6. First two gears will BREAK NECKS. It's VERY comfortable, with a high seat and simple, but soft leather dash and interior. It handles like a dream, with only a little bodyroll. The shifter is smooth, and softly (but longly) switches to each gear. Clutch is a little tough, but you'll get used to it. It's a far better daily than the Mazdaspeed 3.

The Mazdaspeed 3 (Mine) feels much more tight, and sportier. The seats almost look like racing seats, and you sit low, and back a little. It handles amazingly, little to no bodyroll, and the shifter has a satisying, mechanical notchiness to it. It powers through ALL of its gears, with the boost-by-gear reducing wheelspin, but you still feel the acceleration all he way until 4th. It's a much better "sports car", but definitely lacks on comfort. It is also faster, but does not feel like it.

The choice is yours, comfort vs sportiness.

Tough? Like good tough?

>If you dont shift at 2500-3000 range (Obv, you can go above 3000 lmao), you'll be fine.

Why is this, exactly? I understand not boosting in high gears but what's the problem with that rev range?

I already have a sportshitbox and I'm mostly looking for a DD. I imagine the 6 would fit my needs better based on what you've written (and what I've read elsewhere)

>FWD
F
R
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N
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W
H
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L

D
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rwd is better for deep snow you uneducated faggot.

The turbo in the MZR spools around 2500, and if you just cut off the boost before peak boost at 3000 it can fuck with the conrods. It's well known in the Mazdaspeed MZR circle.

I see, thanks for the info m8

How many miles is too many on a used 6?

Who would switch from a Mazdaspeed to a 2009 Accord?

Two cars with the same powerplant and one weighs like 500lbs more, which do you think is better?

1-877-CARS FOR KEKS
C A R S CARS FOR KEKS
1-877-CARS FOR KEKS
HATCHBACKS ARE FUCKING GAY

My nigga. The first gen 3 looks a lot better than 2nd.

>rwd is better in deep snow

A mom. God knows why she would have bought a speed3 in the first place though

Those cars are excellent. They picked up where Honda left off with the sport economy car.

>t. doesn't live in Minnesota

Can I get with your mom, OP? She hot?

What's the difference between a speed 3 and regular 3?

Turbo

About 110 horsepower.

BIG FUCKING HOOD SCOOP

Lol thats aftermarket

Suspension, engine, interior, exterior. The speed3 uses the 2.3 engine with a top mount intercooler feeding a turbo charger at like 15.6 or something psi from the factory. 0-60 around 5.8 for the later years and something like 5.2 for first gen

>not having RWD in the snow

Is that the mazda with road noise so loud you can't even talk to your passengers?

Live and learn.

No

No it isn't.

Are you sure because a quick google suggests the mazdaspeed 3 has unusually bad road noise.

I was a passenger in what I think was a mazda 3 and conversation between the front and rear seats was practically impossible.

I get the impression you two aren't being honest.

Its not THAT bad

>pull up google
>type in any car model + road noise
>?????
>be a faggot
What's a quieter car?

>it's not that bad
>an awful, awful lot of road noise - edmunds.com

That's just from looking at the cap. note they said awful twice, for emphasis, because the road noise is bad.

No, it's definitely a Toyotafag argument. It's the calibre of critique they have been reduced to because the MS3 is so good.

Let's see what they're saying about the Corolla

>The 2014 Toyota Corolla is a big improvement, but it ranks merely midpack against other compacts, especially in terms of cabin noise and ride quality.
>Now the misses: Although decent pep puts it at the top in terms of power, unreasonable noise levels drop the Corolla to the bottom of the segment. Noise pours in from everywhere. The mirrors cause quite a bit of wind ruckus, and road noise will have you checking to see if all the windows are closed, leaving the powertrain's unrefined note topping off circus-like levels of loudness. This was a problem with the previous version, too, and the redesign hasn't put a dent in it.

You're buying a 260hp/3200lb FWD Hot Hatch with a mechanical LSD, grabby brakes, short gearing, and a bunch of torque steer based off of a cheap economy car originally designed to compete with the Civic/Corolla

I don't think road noise would be a legitimate concern. You're not buying a Buick or a Lexus.

Suspension is tuned, 2.3L Direct Injected Turbo I4 (260hp, 280 ft/lbs for Gen 1), and interior/gauges are totally changed.

>I don't think road noise would be a legitimate concern.

All the complaints suggest otherwise. Frankly I'd be embarrassed subjecting my passengers to that abuse. Long trips would be pure hell.

>has never been in one
Its really not noticeable

>don't shift in the rev range that most cars change gears in and put more stress on the engine

Youre failing to understand.

>Its really not noticeable
>notoriously noisy

Show me a review of the mazda 3 that doesn't complain about the noise.

Drive semi-modern manual rwd and you will never go back

In my MS3 I've done 14 hour trips. Only thing I can complain about is wind noise, and even music at a soft volume its barely noticeable.

I couldn't wait to get out of the car after 20 minutes. Our anecdotes are at odds.

Reviews are on my side however.

Im with this guy.
10 hour trips across state. No big deal. Little light music on the BT and its all good.

You're gonna have a hell of a time in a speed3 if that's your situation and you don't know standard well. The clutch is damn stiff and it's a bit of a cunt to drive in snow

Why would you want to wait until full boost to shift? You're just pointlessly spooling and wasting gas if you're boosting every single gear just to cruise

The road noise in the ms3 isn't terrible, honestly. I own one and the only time that it's annoying is if I'm on the highway and I want to have music up and talk to a passenger. The two combined are a little annoying, but easily solved by turning the music volume down to a still very audible state, and then you can barely hear road noise but can also hear your passenger just fine. I had to adjust to this quickly because my girlfriend is a very quiet talker. Normally with people I like to have the music up, not blaring or really loud, but loud enough so that music is most of what you hear but conversation is still easy to hear. In my Ms3 and a quiet talker that's a difficult thing, but with anyone else it's easy. The road noise really isn't that bad and honestly I didn't buy the car hoping for any semblance of luxury.

ok then you try driving a miata up 21st in Duluth Minnesota in the middle of the winter.

Who the fuck cares nigga don't talk to me while I'm whippin'. I don't need passengers. Too much weight.

Only if you're black

>don't boost in high gears
Why is that? Glass transmission or underdimensioned internals?

I used to drive a mustang in canadian winter. Its sure fun but is worse for traction in snow you uneducated pleb.

I dont think you understand how cars work. Putting high load on an engine, especially a turbocharged one can damage the engine. This is why automatics downshift at highway speeds when you put hektik throttle.

I mean, don't shift in the 2500-3000 rpm range, you can shift under that, or over that. Just not in that range. The turbo starts spooling at 2500, and puts full boost at 3000. If you don't let it hit full boost, it can knock the engine.

This is not true.

I have had mine for a few years now and I love it.

I used to prefer gen 1, but the genpu has really grown on me.

...

pls respond

Try not to go above 120k on a Mazdaspeed 6. The MZR is not the most reliable forged internals engine out there. Also, make sure you get it from somebody who treated it nicely. The transfer case may be fucked from launching.

I have a 13 speed3 and I have read about not going open throttle in 5th or 6th grade and a few other issues about the con rods.

What's the best way to get more reliability and general usability out of the rev range and hears? Are there affordable aftermarket con rods that can take the abuse?

>con rods
>affordable

imagine taking the engine out of your car, taking the head off, taking out the stock components, replacing them with ebay ones, putting it all back together, firing the car up, and watching your engine lurch and chuck a piston through the block. top kek

just save for nice shit if you're going to do something like that. Although, even good connecting rods shouldn't be over the top expensive. But if you're going that far into the engine, I wouldn't half ass it - just save for a stroker kit . You would have a mean as fuck ms3.

How bout you just dont go wide open throttle at low rpm?
Its not hard to do.
Its bad on ANY engine
Its way better to slowly roll on throttle anyway.
People will tell you this for cars and motorcycles

You're going to spend a whole lot more money to install the connecting rods than you will for the rods themselves. Building an engine is pretty extensive work.