Castrol vs Mobil vs Quaker State

They're pretty much all the same. I usually use Castrol. Pic quite unrelated.

The differences will be minimal but im sticking with castrol since i can get 6L of synthetic for 40$ canadian at costco

Motul 300V
>esters
motul.com/fr/en/about/300v-competition-lubricant

...

>Is any brand better than others for synthetic oil?
Yes, Mobil 1

HKS and HKS only lol.

Mobil 1 Always.

How about meme oil?

I like redlines transmission fluid

Castrol is coolio

I run that valvoline straight 50 race oil

>Is any brand better than others for synthetic oil?

See the archived detailed thread about motor oils. It has some very informative URLs among which is one to an oil database.

archive.4plebs.org/o/thread/14985876/

>tfw no Fram oil to go with my Fram oil filter and Fram air filter

I use the pennzoil platinum synthetic 5w30.
Last time I used mobil synthetic something or another.
Whichever one's cheaper at Wally world really, oil is oil.

>oil is oil.
Hah, if only you knew the truth.

I can give it to you...for a price

>designed for engines built before 1993
does this mean anything

that's what the shekelmongers want you to think, goy.

What are you using it on?
Commuters get walmart brand synthetic/ napa gold
Weekend get mobil 1

Conventional and blended oil likes to turn black fast due to conventional oil impurities burning up. Full synthetic oil stays golden for a much longer period of time.

what kind of dipshit loses the manual?

20w 50? for what reason?
thats way too thick for my car. my motorcycle likes the thick oil, but it has roller bearings.
i dont understand it well but the thicker oil helps it run cooler, you can notice the difference when riding.

but in a car thats too much

What oil viscosity should I use if I don't drive my car in the winter?
Also why is it so hard to find a 10w40 conventional oil in europe (not counting england). I bought some running in oil of an UK site.

That's the same thing I asked the original owner.

>mean anything
It means you pay a few more dollars for that container.

Each company will have different sorts of propietary additives and such.
It can make a difference in rotary engines, since they are designed to burn oil with the gas. rx7club has a tons of links about which oil has additives that foul up the seals before others.

I get mine at O'Reillys

>what kind of dipshit loses the manual?

It's not a problem to download another owner manual from the company website. I can do that for my car.

It's buying a printed version that is costly since its $40.

When buying a car used, a lot of the ones the owner has lost the manual

Unfortunately I got a used Jdm spec car with an engine unique to the Asian market and no English version of the manual available online

I just got a usdm manual for the engine closest to mine and wing it off of that

>Unfortunately I got a used Jdm spec car with an engine unique to the Asian market and no English version of the manual available online

You should be able to solve that problem because the tools are no longer payware or need expensive scanners. There are optical character readers that can work off scanned images. It would create the katakana, hiragana, and kanji text which you can then input into a translator like at translate.google.com

Apple has a free app to do cross-language translations from scanned images or high-res camera photos. Manga translation hobbyists have long used OCR to re-create original foreign text in electronic file form. That was in the 1990's too. Correct. Before 2000. The tech has come a long ways since then.

Google in 2015 created an interface to let you use scanned pictures as input to their online language translator.

petapixel.com/2015/01/14/googles-translate-app-can-now-use-camera-translate-world-real-time/

support.google.com/translate/answer/6142483?hl=en

>what kind of dipshit loses the manual?
The kind that has the manual in the house and the GF tosses it by accident along with the other old magazines.

Pease, t6 is fucking gold. Fuck stupid friction modifiers and ect. T6 is a good quality synthetic with large amounts of zpd

Check out the oil database at:

540ratblog {D0T} wordpress {D0T} com/

>owning anything VAG
>"all have special needs"
i suppose VAG owners are special needs since they own the worst car on planet Veeky Forums

Probably has more zinc in it
That's the case with Mobil's high mileage line at least.

>Probably has more zinc in it
Zinc is old school. There are better additive packages now that don't use zinc as the "end all" product. They still do have some zinc, but seem to have worked out better additive formulations. The results are at the Rat's oil database and oil article blog.

The additive packages give the brands of oil their unique PSI, TBN, and detergent ability.

Total Base Number (TBN) is the ability to neutralize acidity in the oil. It is not the same scale the 1=acid 14=base scale used to rate materials. So TBN=3 still means it has some acid-neutralizing capability left.

PSI (pressure per square inch) relates to how much instantaneous pressure it takes to squeeze out the film coating between two metal surfaces and thus have metal-to-metal surface contact that damages the surface.

Detergent varies. Apparently full synthetic Pennzoil Ultra Platinum has a lot more detergent than the regular Pennzoil Platinum. And the platinum series seems to have more detergent than the other full synthetic oils.

I've read that chode's blog before. It measures film strength if anything, and my non-roller cam breaks oil film all day.

I always use Liquy Moly or Motul.
Brand is not that important like changing.
I always make maximum 12,000 km and i never heave problem with my engines.
(Prodecers in EU recomended make a changes every 30,000 km which is bullsh%$%! ;)

Despite your problems with any oil satisfying your requirements for your non-oil-film situation, it's still better to have good quality oil whose film isn't easily squished out of the bearing surfaces before new oil appears in the journals.

Pennzoil Platinum my negro

I've heard good things about RP but man it's hard to beat Mobil for the price. Most royal purple that I find in my cars viscosity range is like $5 more a quart than Mobil 1 and really Mobil 1 is the standard for synthetics so it's pointless to pay the extra dime on a relatively stock motor

7-11 brand car oil master race

>Pennzoil Platinum my negro

But that jug of Castol oil has TWO handles on it. Any oil that has two handles on a jug must be better than oil from a jug with only one handle.

Amsoil, but its to costly, I would use if my car was 50K burger bucks or more.

But for now I use Mobile gold with the 15K mile guarantee.

Fuck you got me.
I'm now a #Castrolmissile

>Fram oil filters ever
Kys

What's wrong with Fram?

I use Fram Ultra oil filters & full synth oil. It's Extra Guard --> Tough Guard --> Ultra Synthetic. The Ultra has a metal mesh (prevents deformation) in the pleats.

fram.com/oil-filters/all-oil-filters/

Pictures of Fram oil filter cut apart:
bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2971076

Comments by Fram's technical manager:
speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=35882#p435314

Excerpted Quotes:
""""The Ultra is a good filter compared to other Fram filters, but it isn't the best flowing filter out there due to the dual-layer filter media. Racing filters are made for racing engines, The FRAM Ultra filter is an excellent filter for High Performance Street use, it has a 1.5psi pressure drop at 99% efficiency. A 1.5 psi pressure drop is not considered to be "restrictive" by any industry standards.

FRAM has been owned by Honeywell since 1995, it was purchased last year by the RANK Group, a single owner (one person) with many automotive business's including Wells Vehicle Electronics, Airtex, Prestone and Autolite.
Rank Group bought Fram, Champion Labs and Luberfiner.

FRAM has been making nothing but Automotive and truck filters for over 80 years, 90+% of its filters are now made in USA, Champion has a similar long history and made in USA heritage

Wix/NAPA (Dana) has been owned by AFFINIA, a investment group for many years, DANA sold it long ago. Hastings filters are not even remotely comparable to any model of FRAM filter in efficiency or capacity

Think I already answered this, there is no comparable street car oil filter to the ULTRA at anyplace near it's price. 99% efficiecny at 20 microns, 15,000 mile capacity, no other manufacturer makes and backs up claims like that.

I use the Ultra filter on my personal 600hp Windsor stroker engine in a 67 Mustang with great results.

There is NO "cardboard" in any FRAM filter. It is an engineered fiber very similar to the media itself.""""

>liquid moly
My fellow melanin enriched human person of impeccable social standing.

Liquid moly does make the oil appear a lot darker. So those people who claim to be able to eyeball their oil will now have a harder time.

Shell best oil.

>Shell best oil.
Due to purchases of various corporations in the past 20 years, Shell is the owner of major oil brands Pennzoil and Quaker State and the parent of the JiffyLube service brand. Almost all JiffyLube stations are franchises that are locally owned. Those local owners are the ones that set the sales agenda for their franchises.

>Conventional and blended oil likes to turn black fast due to conventional oil impurities burning up

With my new car, I used to get black oil when sticking with the manufacturer's brand of blended oil (mix of conventional and full synth). It would turn dark after just a few weeks. After switching to full synthetic oil, it stays golden for a long time.

I will stick to full synth oils from now on.

Nobody seems to be selling the 5 quart jugs of pennzoil ultra platinum. Anyone know of a seller?

>5 quart jugs of pennzoil ultra platinum
I've only seen PUP sold on amazon in one quart bottles. Walmart.com used to sell 5 quarts, but they seem to have stopped carrying all PUP in both their stores and website.

4000 miles on the Pennzoil Platinum in my Mazda3 and it's still golden.

>Anyone know of a seller?
Not PUP, but this was low priced full synth oil as posted in another Veeky Forums thread. Evidently, it's a lot cheaper to buy oil in 55 gallon drum lots.

Current Example Price: 55 gallon bulk full synthetic oil. Comparable to Mobile1 5W/30 $425. Free Shipping included in price.

buysinopec.com/collections/passenger/products/5w30-full-synthetic-motor-oil-55-gallon-drum

Thank you user. If I ever plan on opening a fucking oil change shop I will know a cheap synthetic oil.

Certainly the conventional oils would be even cheaper than this.

A lot of people consume gasoline but forget that there are a lot of other products that forcibly come out of the crude oil as useful leftover products such as motor oil and asphalt type semi-solids. But given a huge appetite for oil, these other products will also be created and pile up. Only so much of it can be gotten rid of into diesel fuel.

It takes energy to then process and break down the motor oil into other useful products based upon the key hydrocarbon ring. What a waste of energy. I sometimes wonder about that since I've moved on to full synthetic oils and no longer use conventional oils. If everyone abandoned conventional oils, what would happen to that part of the oil market?

Have you heard of Google?

Makes you wonder how much lower the conventional oil prices could be from wholesale pricing.

Places like O'Reillys and walmart.com also sell 55 gallon drums, but their prices are much higher. Buying 55 gallon drums of oil from those places is the reverse. It costs more than buying the 5 quart jugs.

Go to your manufacturer site and download it from there.

My manufacturer has quite a few manuals for download and not just the owner manual. The electronic ones are free.

I don't know what the guy you quoted drives, but in my experience older BMW engines prefer 20w-50 in hot climates (and by that I mean pretty much everything below IN - I live in TN, personally). I ran Castrol 20w-50 in my E23's M30 and I'm going to start running it in my E34's M50 on my next change. I'm running 10w-40 in it now and I get sticky lifters sometimes.

Sticky lifters sounds like the oil is too thick

>Places like O'Reillys and walmart.com also sell 55 gallon drums, but their prices are much higher.

Don't buy bulk oil from retailers. The only good priced-places are the true oil distributors and wholesalers.

Overfill it by 1/2-1 quart and run 5w-40 Rotella T6, see what happens. I did that to my S52 in my E36 M3 (along with changing the OCV and VCG) and its quieter and oil consumption dropped to nil.

>Overfill it by 1/2-1 quart

Don't overfill. A full crankcase is similar to one that is full of water and gets your engine hydrolocked. This type of bad advice is typical in the past from trolls like alphonse or those two other regular trolls in the forum.

On wikipedia, we used to have trolls too. Instead of deliberately bad advice on forums, those trolls would modify statements very slightly to change the meaning. Or they would tweak the numbers and thus make them wrong in hopes that people would use those incorrect numbers and come to ruin.

The problem continued until we editors and our admins had enough. The FBI was called in. Since wiki is really a major online resource for the public good and deliberate sabotage is a homeland security felony, the FBI went out to give warrants and get ISP records of those guilty parties in the USA or countries with criminal treatment treaties with the USA. Most of the problems stopped then after someone got arrested and went to prison for sabotage (felony). It's too bad alphonse and others aren't charged with hacking crimes at least.

I'd like to see alphonse and those trolls at least fired from their jobs. And they would lose any pensions since it was a "for cause" situation on their standard employee contracts. Some (but not all) usa states allow a corp to back calculate the 401K matching funds and remove that amount from the employee's 401K plan. While it requires court order, approval is virtually automatic in states that allow it. Also removed is all related interest gains from those matching amounts. Reversing time is possible since computers have every day's transaction records. Thus, all of the compounded interest gains are also removed from the 401K. I could only hope Hiiro would ask the FBI for their help to stop the hacking by alphonse and trolls.

>Comparable to Mobile1
>Sinopec
That's Chinese gutter oil bro.

>Literally being spoon-fed by vw so you can pick the best quality oil for you car
>Complain

Nigger what you complain about. They literally give you the best possible oils that meet the vw standards

Rotella T6 is basically the only oil you ever need

The majority of people I've seen complaining about sticky lifters in M50s said that they went away when they switched to a thicker oil. Go look up people discussing which oil weight to use for M50s and you'll see how many people recommend 20w-50 for hot climates. Combine that with the fact that I ran it in my M30 for three years and was always very happy with it, and hopefully you'll understand why I plan on continuing to use it.

>The majority of people I've seen complaining about sticky lifters in M50s said that they went away when they switched to a thicker oil.

Isn't that the case when there is more wear and the thicker oil remains in the "larger gap space" while the thin oil flows out too fast?

You dumbasses. If the oil goes for 4,000 miles without discolouration it's obviously not doing it's job.

Enjoy your dead engine soon breh

If you're changing it regularly like you should it doesn't fucking matter
Ford Motorcraft, shit's cheap, therefore best

Different engines seem to have different attitudes to different oil. I, for instance, have to run full synthetic for various reasons--semi-synthetic is actually a bit dangerous, even with updated PCV hardware. I tried a couple brands, and it seemed to be a bit pissy about everything aside from some Mobil1 blends. Minor differences, mind you, like lengthier lifter tick upon startup, especially with Rotella T6. The ticking always disappears after the engine's warmer, thankfully, so it's just the thinness of the 0W40 I use being dumb.

540ratblog dot wordpress dot com
Very detailed independent tests of many oils both conventional and synth

Mobil Super and a OEM filter for all my shit boxes. If I got something new I'd spring for the mobile 1 but all my stuff is old.

The price difference is pretty small when you look at the 5 quart jugs at walmart. It's when you buy oil in one quart singles that the price difference becomes a lot.

I belive Super High Milage is better then the M1 High Milage

There's a difference between the mobil oils labeled "high mileage" and "extended performance". The high mileage oils are for engines that already have high mileage on them. High mileage oils have an additive to make seals swell a little to reduce oil leaks. On the other hand, extended performance oils have different additive packages to allow for higher temperature or more extreme usage conditions.

That is kinda irrelevant when we are comparing Super HM to M1 HM is it not?

>That is kinda irrelevant when we are comparing Super HM to M1 HM is it not?

Because you can't separate the HM package from super (conventional oil) or in M1 (full synthetic), you end up basically comparing conventional vs full synthetic oils from the same brand (exxon mobil).

Well Super HM is a blend and that still doesn't invalidate my statement

It's a great site. Thanx.

Been running Pennzoil Ultra Platinum in my 2008 memestang GT. Done a couple oil analysis labs and so far Ultra Platinum is the best synthetic on the market hands down. Although here in Nevada you can't find it on store shelves. You have to buy it at either:

Online
Whole-sale
Jiffy Lube. I usually buy the quarts at a near-by jiffy lube and change the oil myself.

I went to walmart to snap this pic for this thread. See how the Super HM has the "Resource Covering" labeling? That is why I believe Super HM is a better oil than M1 HM. The reasons why might be far beyond the scope of a Veeky Forums thread. Just google what that "Resource Covering" really means outside of the "Muh MPG" bullet point.

bobistheoilguy.com/

Fram is that cheap shit my girlfriend always buys for her Jeep and has me put in for her. They haven't failed yet but I guess just about anything would be good enough for a Jeep.

>Fram is that cheap shit
Orange can you mean.
They also have two more levels above the orange can basic filter. I use the Ultra guard synthetic filter. It's pretty robust and has the metal mesh even in the pleated filter. My oil system has a lot of pressure surges, so I wanted a physically robust filter as well.

A bunch of years back, Fram had a lot of its filters made in china, and the chinese factories were not only shoddy, they did the infamous bait and switch. The chinese would even make filters of shoddy material that burst through but unless you did changes yourself AND took apart the twist-on filter cans, you'd never know your oil filter had burst.

That caused Fram to get a really negative reputation. What the company did was move back as much of the final assembly to the USA as possible. Materials and inspectable tested items can still come from china. But not the whole filter. So they seem to have a good grip on the filter quality now and rebuilt their reputation. Except that a lot of people still remember the bad old days.

I googled "resource covering", "resource covering oil" and "resource covering engine oil". Nothing came up. Care to explain what you're talking about?