Looking at a 1994 Civic DX Coupe for $3500...

Looking at a 1994 Civic DX Coupe for $3500. The problem is that there's been tons of aftermarket stuff done to it - new engine and transmission included - and I can't make heads or tails of any of it. So here's a list of the things on it and hopefully someone can tell me if these are good things or not

>JDM B16A SIR2 motor
>LS transmission
>Tokico blue shocks
>adjustable coil covers
>15" Drag DR2 wheels
>Hankook tires
>New LCAs
>New upper and lower ball joints
>New upper control arms
>New front rotors and pads
>New dizzy and front axels
>New fuel pump and relay
>2.5" exhaust with magnaflow muffler
>Chipped P28 ECU

Ran the VIN check and everything is clean on it, no accidents or irregular repair work. Pic related is it

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Spend that money on a STOCK car.
Dont buy someone elses project.

The B16A means it's a ~160 HP 1.6L DOHC 16V Vtec engine from the Japanese home market. It's a powerful but very high revving engine. Doesn't start making power until 5-6k RPM.
LS transmission means the transmission is from an Acura Integra LS. A Hondafag can probably explain the importance of that better than I can.
IIRC, tokico blue shocks have adjustable damping, allowing you to adjust how hard or soft the ride is. Comes in handy when tuning for cornering
adjustable coilovers means he's likely got a ground control kit on it, allowing for height adjustability.
LCA means lower control arms
Aside from that, it's had a suspension overhaul and had the brakes serviced.
Dizzy is a slang term for the distributor
the chipped ECU means it's an OBD1 ECU with a custom tune likely to allow it to both run the B16A engine, but also to, hopefully, also meet emissions.

All sounds like very well thought out modifications. Personally, I'd have used a B20 engine (from a Honda CR-V) with a Vtec conversion because displacement, but that should be a really fun car.

This pretty much. I wouldn't be scared of it just because its modified, especially if you plan on modifying anyway. It's cheaper to buy a car with mods than it is buy a stock car and buy mods.

If you're in Cali though that car isn't smog legal due to the swapped engine. You should be good pretty much anywhere else since it's OBD1.

Nah I'm in Misery so it should be good

>3500$
>for a fucking 1994 civic
shit costs no more than 1k dollars
>160HP
does it even get out of 10sec mark 100km/h?

cool vibrations

Exactly. Mods dont equal higher value of car. And its an old econobox. At most 2500$

Buy a nice em2 instead. Bone stock.

EM2 seriously? No

[spoiler]thats partially why I want it[/spoiler]

wanna dance

yes

Why shouldn't I buy a first generation Fiat Panda 4x4 as my DD for when I can't ride my motorcycle?

I want that engine in my hatch.

>tfw no real SiR-II

>IIRC, tokico blue shocks have adjustable damping, allowing you to adjust how hard or soft the ride is. Comes in handy when tuning for cornering
No, the blues are non adjustable and also have a reputaion of being a bit crap. You were probably talking about the white Tokico Illuminas which are adjustable and have a good reputation.

meh. Not much of a Tokico fan. I'll take Koni Yellows or KYB AGX's over Tokico's any day.

Actually that's my opinion, too. Nice read: farnorthracing.com/autocross_secrets18.html

bad bad bad bad bad
run run run run run

seriously

good good good good good
fun fun fun fun fun

seriously

no shit posterino. after buying a honda (integra) as my first car and having so much fun with it in only one months time it was worth it. came with a b20b jdm and needed a few fixes but was totally worth. that car looks amazing OP and if you can get the price down to at least $3000 its a solid deal. if theres rust and/or shitty interior then try and bring it down to $2200-$2500. good luck user and have fun

>paying 3500 for a 22 y/o car that's obviously been driven hard
fukin rice cucks

that's not too badly modified desu OP. with the conversion some of that is wanted anyways because during disassembly you find out your ball joints, tie rods, brakes, etc are all pretty much shot so he probably wanted it "done right" as they call it. make sure it has no CEL or the vtec won't work. make sure the engine torque mounts are installed if he used stock honda mounts. Innovate/hasport mounts don't need them above 70A hardness. get him to jack up the car and go around the transmission bellhousing and make sure every bolt is there. If not then there is more halfassery afoot but is optional as you can tell before you get to this point. check for rust in rear quarters. when you test drive it, take it all the way to redline and shift through the gears mainly 2-3 shift. also when you take it to redline look in the mirror for smoke in the rearview.

hondas obv. are not for you. why are you here?

and get that price down around 3k or lower

this is /auto not /honda

we're talking about honda here in this thread. enjoy your heavy af v8 shitter elsewhere

>all is amerifat but honda
I love a non-vtec B16, but not enough to drop 35 bills

B16 is fucking shit. Have fun revving this shitbox to 7k if you want to pass someone. You've got to beat the piss out of this engine like a true rice burner to get any power.

If im not mistaken, jdm b16A's are all vtec. assuming this is OP's first or second car, as hes asking for info from us about what has been done to the car directly from an online classified ad; a b16 is a great place to start to learn about hondas. what he really would be paying for is the mods and maintenance done to the car, and how rare a decently clean EG coupe is nowadays (at least its rare out here in Canada) the motor is just a bonus, as long as the motor is half decent condition