/ccg/

remember what years it was? This is a 79

unfortunately I don't; I'll have to ask her. I think it was a 77 though. Great riding car, too.

can I run a Bosch 044 with rubber hoses and clamps?
Have a reg at the end by the Carbs just wondering if the lines will blow off before it gets there

No clue

Maverickunt here.

Repostan.

God gave us impact wrenches.

>impact wrenchan
>bunch of shit falls in my face
>look up and see quarter inch thick layer of bondo making up for a missing rear rocker panel breaking off.

There's going to be alot of bodywork in my future.

Still not sure how the fuck I'm supposed to work this bolt loose when I have no room for a hammer.

Oh lawdy that bondo
Try a pry bar?

I fucking love old vans.

I have an 84 Celica I'm working on, is that considered to be a classic?
pic unrelated

Well, classic enough. Got some pictures to post?

Man I got too many cars.

I got some when it came out of garage, rinsed it since then.

cool

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>That feel when you want to daily drive a 1964 Buick Gran Sport Riviera but too broke to pay the gas for a dual quad 425.

Cut it? Nice to see you got somewhere with the impact wrench.

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Holy shit. That's a few steps away from being a frame off restoration. That's a lot of work mate.

page 8 bumpage

>Driving Corvair
>sudden deluge
>come through town
>road flooded at least two feet
>YOLO
>drive through it
>stuck in the middle
>glorious flat six won't be stalled by some fucking water
>slam it in first, punch the throttle
>Water seeping into the interior
>this is it, hydrolock fuck me
>Corvair makes it through the tide

Holy shit RR>all.

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Hey, 65 brother!

Blew my fuel pump today. Going to miss the cruise in tonight. Ah well, could be worse.

disgusting

Took my Scottsdale on a 4 day road trip up through the BC interior and back down through Marble Canyon/Fountain Valley last weekend. By far the greatest driving experience I've ever had, Marble Canyon is fucking staggering to behold, the narrower sections of highway weaving up around cliff faces literally gave me vertigo as I looked out the passenger side window. 11/10, so excited to do it again before summer's end.

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Put a electric one on it and a spare in the glove box u pansy

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Just outside of Clinton, BC. This is where you would start the trip south through Marble Canyon.

I was running the original mechanical one that was on it when I bought it. Hadn't bought a spare yet. What kind of electric pump would you recommend? I've only got experience with the mechanical ones.

One of many abandoned late 1800's gold rush settlements along the old Highway 12 through Fountain Valley. Most of these are so remote that they're mostly untouched by vandals, these buildings were still full of pre-war furniture, gadgets, tools, and clothing.

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The 155 year old ruins of the Pavilion General Store, the longest operating store in the history of BC before it burnt down, 1861 - 2000.

you're probably my fav Veeky Forums poster, I save almost every your photo of beautiful nature and cute old truck

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every old car has to be frame off restored becouse old cars are hiding a lot of little problems like bondo rusted or cracked frame an so on

Thanks m8.

Dumping classics and hot rod shops that I stumbled upon throughout the trip.

Drench with penetrant while rotating the bolt. Allow lots of soak time. Sometimes I leave bad hardware for a day or two.

You might place a wood block to fille the gap then try to shift the bolt with a flat bar. If you have a torch you can heat the bolt red then let it cool. Then use more penetrant.

You can also clean up the area where the nut flange hits, clean the nut flange, run the nut back down the bolt, and use a small tack weld to hold the nut on the mount. Then as you unscrew the bolt it will be forced out of the bushing because the nut cannot move outboard. I've done it and it works. You can twist off the nut from the tack weld with a visegrip with the bolt removed.

Vulture Garage in Spences Bridge, BC.

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These old Fargo trucks are so awesome, first time I've seen one in person.

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beautiful environment and pics user

>tfw no classic car or pretty area to drive in

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So the other day my truck got to about 225 degrees f and then just died in traffic. I was freaked out, thought I blew a head gasket and was pretty butthurt. Yesterday, i went to test the truck, found out it was getting fuel but no spark, and the distributor looked fine so I got a new and updated (bigger) coil and now the damn thing runs better than ever.

My question now is what should I do to improve the cooling? I feel like i should get a radiator but i don't even know where to begin to look for that

I'm seconding this, you take very nice, high quality photos. Also, I remember awhile back reading about how your bed got bent. Did you ever get it fixed/looked at?

at least we can dream

It's not that hard

My plan was to shim up the rear cab / front bed mounts with some beefy ass washers to re-adjust the panel positioning and then pretend that I never bent the frame. When I took the impact to the passenger side cab mount the bolt spun freely in place, meaning the welded nut inside the floor of the cab broke free. No biggie right, lean the seat forward, find the nut, hold it with a wrench, and have a buddy go at it with the impact... nope... the nut happens to be completely enclosed behind the seat with no access panels, so the next step is to cut an access hole to the nut with my hole saw, which I haven't done yet.

I'm in no rush, the bend is small enough that it hasn't had an affect on anything mechanical and nobody notices it until I point it out from a direct side view. I'm pretty rough on Old Brown, chances are I'll bend it again a week after I add the shims.

Overheating in stop and go traffic = bigger fan

Overheating on the highway = bigger radiator

Look up champion radiators. They make em according to how much HP they supposedly cool. You can look them up by your car, or by the engine. Main thing you need to pay attention to is the inlet / outlet sides. Got one for my galaxie and have no problems with cooling my 400 since I put a heavier 16lb cap on there.

You might have fittage issues, but it won't be extremely complicated. The original radiator mount didn't fit this new one, so I had to make one out of some sheet metal and drill a few holes. Took like 20 minutes to make which included paint dry time.

>overheating in stop and go
that's what is happening, but I have a feeling my radiator is clogged and I know it has a pinhole leak. it is the original radiator.

I am so happy the HG didn't blow though.

My maverick used to overheat like mad wherever I went. One day I forgot to let it cool before I took the cap off. Luckily I had a rag in hand, The cap flew off about 20 feet in front of the car and a bunch of brown, liquid diarrhea comes shooting out of the radiator. For about a week after that the car stayed at a constant 180, then it would creep up and up until it would start overheating again. I decided to recreate the original incident, this time with a large metal rod to push the cap off. Each time I did it more liquid diarrhea. It came to a point where I was doing this atleast once a month to keep from overheating. All because I was too cheap to buy a new radiator.

Not really sure what the fuck tangent I'm on, but I felt like sharing.

>rumble seat maverick

>get rear end done at a shop
>limp back home
>take the cover off
>can't even move the diff its so tight
>can't even get it out to remove the fucking million shims the guy put in
Epic, exactly what I expected, can't wait for the pinion to walk the fuck out and grenade everything.

I took some shims out on both sides, got the backlash and the pattern to as close to spec as I could and threw it all back together.

How have you goys been doing?

Very nice, BC bro.

Shitty deal bro. I'm still trying to sell my Thunderbird, but have just had a few of the usual "I'll come see it so and so day" then nothing after that

I remember reading a thread where someone posted your craigslist link and said your car wasn't in the greatest condition, e.g. your rear bumper was practically falling off due to rust and was only being held on because of a tow hitch.

I imagine that, plus other disclosed issues (potential and real) are why you are not getting any takers.

Yes that was me posting the craigslist ad stating the problems. The car is in decent conditions over all, literally the only problem is that it needs a rear bumper assembly and it could use a new gas tank sometime.
I'm only selling it for $1200, that's less than what I spent rebuilding the engine

Anybody fuck with chevy's manually adjusting brakes? Pic related is the car. Rears lock up in forward but are fine in reverse. I tried the whole "drive in reverse with brakes on" but didn't get anywhere. anyone know?

Driving in reverse and hitting the brakes only adjusts the brakes outward. You'd have to adjust them back in manually, I fiddle with the star adjuster until the drums barely graze the shoes. If they still lock up after backing them off a hair, then there could be something wrong with the proportioning valve

The star adjuster is blocked off from the outside. I have to take the drums off but they're locked on. Thanks Chevy.

Locked on as in seized on or just have a huge rust ridge on the drum?
A big hammer and pry-bars usually gets them off, that's what I use at work

Take the drums off and clean up the adjusters, or buy new ones if they aren't salvageable. You sure you can't get at them from the backside of the drums? Some older ones are like that.

If yours aren't rusted to shit, take the drums off, take out the adjusters (don't mix up the sides) and clean them completely, lightly lube up the star end so things can move freely.

Alright I'll try that. No these don't have the access from the rear.

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packard?

Was always told how my Father's friend has a collection of things and finally saw some of it today.

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Oh sweet jesus that's fucking awesome

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He has a bunch of random stuff, guns to a meteor piec

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noice

I don't remember what car he said this was but he said its extremely rare

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Few more photos left.

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I should've taken more photos of his other cars and assorted stuff, but thats it for now.

Last one for real now, dash of the Duesenberg

This guy is way too rich

Quick question, while building my 406 SBC for my 71 Elco I used ARP torque lube on the cam bolts, following the paper in the ARP bolt package. However everyone says I should have loc tited them. I used a cam locking plate (plate w/metal ears that bend up) to hold the bolts in, will that be enough? Thanks

I haven't actually seen loc-tite on cam plate bolts but I'm sure it wouldn't hurt

He just worked all his life in Construction.

Remember to keep the loctite to a minimum if you do end up using it. You'll fuck up the threads if you use too much, what with liquids not being compressible and all.

Hey /ccg/, is degreeing a cam difficult? if the engine is a TDC is it even necessary? Will be doing an upgraded cam in my Camaro eventually.