Wiretuck tips??

Aye, so. I'm wanting to do a wire tuck in my mr2. I want to move the battery to the front, move all the reservoirs to the front and as much as possible to the front. Minus of course the engine.

What's the best process to do this?

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buy longer hoses and wires?

>What's the best process to do this?
Properly? Everything gets moved into the trunk.

My question is what's the best way to route the wires,also what are some do's and donts

The holes in the REAR firewall into the trunk where they all go through.
Pull the harness out. Move everything yo trunk.
Extend necissary wires.

>always move to the trunk
Why don't people ever just move things to other places, like the fender wells.

>My question is what's the best way to route the wires,also what are some do's and donts

My memory is fuzzy, but some of the firewall holes were crude (sharp). So you'd have to line them with some nylong plastic grommet. That's the kind that looks like a long plastic stick with feelers sticking out of it. Just cut a length off and line the sharp edges of the hole.

It's my understanding that some power wires are not individually fused since they are short. But if you bring them out, you may have to fuse them. So that adds expense.

When the main battery is so far away from the alternator, you increase the chance of ground loop currents because now you have a significant current flow between the battery and alternator. If you live in arizona where there is no salt, that's fine. But if you are in minnesota, the more currents you have flowing between sections of the frame with their different resistances, the more aggressive the salt damage becomes. So you might optionally have a long thick copper ground wire between the battery and alternator and ground that at various points (if you live in winter salt country).

>I want to move the battery to the front,

You'll have to make a wiring layout. The wire between the battery and alternator should be sized to the expected power draw from the battery.

alternator -=-=-=-=--> battery -=-=-=-=-> starter

You see from above that the wire from the battery back to the rear engine compartment's starter relay has to be pretty big and fused.

Another concern exists. Since other items in the car drawing current will continue drawing current if the battery goes dead, the wire between the alternator and main battery should also be sized pretty big. If the battery goes "dead" it will have a lot of current drain because that is what dead batteries do if a cell or two shorts out. That current drain is also added on top of the current draw from the rest of the car that is running. Therefore, the wire between the alternator and battery should probably be sized to the output capacity of the alternator. And fused due to its length.

Moving the battery to the front means you'll have to factor in the additional large fuses in the engine compartment. Where does that fuse block go?

It does seem rare that the main battery is relocated to the front with the engine in back. Even with new cars having two separate 12volt batteries, the main one still resides near the engine due to the large wires, fusing needs, and resistance drops of running large power cables over long distances. Not to mention the added risk of hot fiery shorts if there is a collision that damages such large power lines. Using a loom and braid won't stop such shorts.

Remove everything you want out of the bay first.

Next, find a new home for them.

Afterwords, find a way to get them there.


Seriously, get some color coded wire and some hard tubing. You will be in it for the long haul.

>pic related, not even a quarter of the way through. Old pic though, maybe 4 or so years. Ignore red box.

From that wiring layout, there will be two massive cables between the battery and rear. Both wires cannot be shorted to ground or a huge zzzap occurs.

Currently, this MR2 has no major short problem if it is T-boned. With two massive power cables, a T-bone accident on that side will result in an exceptionally large short. It is not just the battery short, but the alternator will contribute a short-lived spike of current too. So one might think of it is a double-sized zzzap powered by both the battery and alternator each separately pumping power into the T-bone point of impact that caused the power cables to short.

Normally, one doesn't think of a t-bone as blowing out the alternator. But with this modified MR2, a lot of systems could be blown out depending on what order the two major cables were hit. OP could prevent that problem by simply only drawing power AFTER the battery and never from the point between the alternator and battery.

That's because the battery serves as a voltage regulator of sorts. The output of an alternator can have large voltage spikes. But the battery eats those up and averages out the voltage. If the battery is disconnected due to a t-bone or other accident, the alternator continues to run for a bit longer. Any electronics that obtains power from the line between the alternator to the battery would thus experience high voltage spikes. Radios could burn out if they don't have built-in protection.

>What's the best process to do this?
You might also consider number 1/0 welding cable because it has more individual wires for the size of the cable (less resistance) and is more flexible than standard battery cable.

Or you can hire the girl in the picture to capture Pikachu and harness it as your car's front battery source.

I scored like 100 feet of 2/0 from work on some fire truck recalls (each recall kit had waaaayy more than what was needed), did 2 vehicles with it.

As for OP, either reroute behind fenders make fiberglass shrouds over inner fender to route behind, or if you're really cool- learn how to bend stainless steel tubing and route everything through it. Bonus to replace all rubber lines with hand bent SS (did it once for a SEMA car, took forever but looked amazing)

>I want to move the battery to the front
As the owner of a car with two factory-installed batteries (one in front, one in the trunk), why move the battery to the front? Instead, if you have something up front that needs a lot of power, add a small 12V battery with its own charging voltage regulator in the front.

That way, you don't have to change out a lot of existing wiring. The fused wire feeding the battery in front can be a lot smaller too because it's max draw should be the electronics devices and the charging current for the battery itself. The fuses can thus be relatively small as no major fuse block is necessary.

>I want to move the battery to the front, move all the reservoirs to the front and as much as possible to the front.

Why? You trying to make room for a turbo?

bump due to alphonse spam attack

>I want to move the battery to the front, move all the reservoirs to the front and as much as possible to the front.

Why not just move it all to the trunk space if you want to make space in the engine compartment?

but user that's already in the trunk.

its an MR2 so I think he is trying to change weight distribution to the front

Changing to summer tires and adding a 25 pound bag of sand in the front would do a lot

more than moving the weight of a battery to the front plus the five pounds of fluids. The

MR2 12V battery is already a small thing (in the MR2 that I saw) so it can't be all that

heavy. I'd say, if you're the typical overweight Veeky Forums person, go on a diet and you've saved

the weight of the battery right there!

Adding all that extra wiring, fusing, insulation, and raceway protection would reduce the

weight shift benefit too. Really, the car is going to be heavier after the change. It's

still better than my large wallowing behemoth, but at least I can point to his MR2 and say

"You're getting FAT!"

Look at clean MR2 engine bays, and see what they moved.

However, it won't look super tidy unless you start removing emissions related stuff.

>moving shit into the trunk
>aw11

fuck right off back to your backwoods outhouse where you belong

OP here.
Trying to make room for a turbo and also make the engine bay very clean and even out the weight a bit.

Really like the pictures of the girl you are posting.
Also I honestly just want to clean it up and make room for a turbo. The sand bag in the front isn't a bad idea.
I'm just tired of looking at that tentacle mess

>Really like the pictures of the girl you are posting.

If you ever go to Comiket or other japanese anime fan conventions, you may find cosplay DVDs for sale. Japan has had lots of artbooks featuring race queens. Some have gone on to modeling or TV media careers after getting "discovered" in cosplay or racequeen art books. Many jobs are gotten by "who you know" but for those who don't know influential people, this is used in hopes of getting exposure. Or they use it to earn money for a different career (e.g. "sexy seniorita" went on to be a lawyer).

Someone else posted the info in a cosplay fan forum, so I conveniently copied it to here.

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名前 :ミケ
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身長 :168cm
サイズ:B84 W59 H87
趣味 :コスプレ、アイドル、アニメ、アニソン、特撮
(新クールのアニメは全チェック!)
性格 :引きこもり! 万年「コタツから出たくない病」
他人からの評価は”猫”です (●ↀωↀ●)
備考 :小さい頃から重度の”オタク”
ハイレグ好き、おっぱい好き、エロい嫁ほすぃ…

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Same girl but portraying a character from the popular Touhou Project game franchise.

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Fender walls are more likely to be damaged

I love you

>wiretuck tips

Tip #1: don't.

...

This is for faggot teenagers and boyracers. Keep your shit stock. You'll only introduce problems.

Is this picture a joke?

You can't put nylon twist ties on the hot exhaust line. They will melt. And you should not put power lines up against the hot exhaust line. It will melt and and and and and and ZZZZZZAP zzZZZaaaP.

But twist tying it to the drive shaft is OK?

Time to wait for next joke picture. Hoping the next one shows metal tap screws and clamps holding the power cable (which is also too small) to the gas tank.

Not what you've waiting for, but funny nevertheless.

...

>I want to move the battery to the front

OP, remember that if you modify the car, all changes should be done with long term safety of the car in mind. If you park the car near your house or inside a garage, a car fire may burn your house down. If your car is near other cars, it can damage those other cars as well. If you live in an apartment, your auto liability insurance is not enough to pay for reconstruction of the apartment building plus paying all people for damages and costs of alternate housing (hotel) while the apartment is being rebuilt. You will also be required to pay lost income to the apartment owner which means all the apartment rents for everyone.

MR2 uses a lead acid battery in a ventilated engine compartment. Does that mean OP will switch to a sealed AGM battery when he moves it to the front? Lead acid batteries need ventilation or the acidic fumes will cause problems in a sealed compartment.

The front compartment isn't ventilated? With liquid containers moved into there, won't the moisture level build up? Moist and hot doesn't sound good unless you like bacteria, mould, mildew, and fungi.

>move all the reservoirs to the front
I had no idea it was that easy to move the brake fluid reservoir to the front. I always thought it needed to be near all those control valves and pump in the engine compartment. As long as changing the line length doesn't change how responsive and firm antilock braking is going to be.

>reservoirs to the front

Nope.

youtube.com/watch?v=fxe_b2GRwok

>flimsy levers
>needs two people to open the hood
>have to be more careful than usual to not break stuff

Why is it that when newer the car, the harder it is to do things?

Wrong thread, sorry.

>Why is it that when newer the car, the harder it is to do things?
There's more and more instrumentation in the new engines. Sensors and their wires are everywhere unlike with older cars from the previous century. I also wonder if the manufacturers are subtly designing things to require a dealer or well equipped shop to be the only ones that can perform maintenance without violating the warranty. It is very much the desire of all manufacturers to keep the dealer chain both numerous and prosperous. Ensuring a minimum floor for repeat service work goes a long ways for that.

Some new cars now require you to remove the front bumper in order to change the headlight bulbs.