americunt here, so i have a 98' Camaro SS. i've already built the ls1 to what i think is about the top of it's capability n/a. heads,cam,intake,exhaust,fuel system, stalled left the bottom end stock. havent tuned it since the heads i threw on so im not sure what it's putting out as of now, but before it was 401 hp, and 472 torques (not bad for a mostly stock 4l60e) how ever im thinking about doing an lsx block 427 c.i 9:1 cr, and a maggy tvs2300, hawks performance offers a kit that will allow me to retain stock ram air hood. my questions are what cam should i run? i have the ms3 in the ls1 right now which sounds orgasmic but you have to spin the fucker way up to really use it. i have never built a forced induction motor, also what should i do with the 4l60e and rear end? dont want to use a ford 9, would like to keep the ten bolt under the car but bulit proof it as much as possible. not wanting turbo due to lack of room for everything
OP, you probably have more experience then all of Veeky Forums good luck with any real answers.
but i would get a blower cam spec. and swap a t56 desu then you can't beat a Ferd 9 inch just saying..
Samuel Smith
I don't have any advice because I'm pretty stupid. But I like your car LS1 bro
Austin Sanchez
You would probably be only fbody using that tvs2300. Just do what's proven. procharger or Huron turbo kit. I have a 408 with a t76 in my TA
Aaron Richardson
why the fuck would u want that shit
Christopher Cook
cool camero
Lucas Brooks
op here, not looking to follow the crowd. but there are plenty of ls motors running the magnuson blower pushing 700-900 horse. what all is done to your 408?
what do you mean? a bad ass murican mobile with 700 + hp?
Carson Robinson
Dude, you gonna have to like cut the firewall, hood, and drop the engine.
Ethan Martin
> dont want to use a ford 9, would like to keep the ten bolt under the car but bulit proof it as much as possible.
Jason Cooper
That's not really that hard. I've dropped the engine before no big deal. Running a cutting wheel and welded isn't hard either
Jonathan Foster
The Magic Stick 3 camshaft will actually work well with the blower. Not ideal, but not far off.
The Lobe Separation Angle is 112 degrees. Ideal would be 114 or 116, but 112 will still retain most of the charge air and prevent it from being blown out the exhaust valve during the smaller overlap.
It's a split pattern cam with five more degrees of duration on the exhaust lobe which is about bang on for your application. .600 gross lift will be ideal.
I'd run the MS3 cam and see how you go. If it's letting you down, a split pattern with eight to ten degrees more on the exhaust lobe with a 114 LSA will get you closer but going out on a hunch, I think you'll be quite happy with the performance of the cam already in your combo.
Connor Roberts
How does it feel to drive a car with the worst interior known to man?
Jaxson Ortiz
A 10 bolt can survive surprisingly well behind an automatic. I was cutting 1.65 60ft times on my 10 bolt on drag radials with a stalled auto.
If you have a 6spd then don't even bother, start saving up for something stronger.
Nolan Hughes
Depending on how nuts you want to go. You could back half it and put a 4 link under it. That will help your launch. A 460 can be built to handle just about anything if done right. As for buying a block you can stroke a stock ls. Bump the compression to 11.1 and that will help the power. You'll need a new cam more than likely and you may need to redo the heads for valve clearance. But there is a ton of ways to get more power out of a ls without boost.
Luke Thompson
Yeah I have the T56 so I'm saving up for a 9inch currently
Adrian Davis
I know you might want to keep it all chevy, but you're shooting yourself in the foot by keeping the 10 bolt.
Alexander Walker
You need all this work to hide the fact that stock this is slower than a stock BRZ
James Garcia
Wut..my SS ran a12.9 with just cai in 2001.The norm for an Fbody was 13.2. Get this brz shit outa here.
Really don't see a problem with the interior it's simple and plain
Austin Flores
Kek, F o.
Sup LS bros
Cooper Ward
OP this is my dream setup except I want it in a firebird and manual. Honestly you'd be better off calling a camshaft manufacturer and tell them your setup so they can custom grind you a cam to your application and what you want from it.
Also put a manual in it, unless your chasing 1/4 mile times in that case either rebuild and beef up the 4l60 or get a mildly built 4l80, because a mild 427 lsx will at minimum be making 600hp.
Lastly replace your rear end, I'm not suprised it lasted this long as there are freak outliers but it's really on borrowed time, I blew mine in a stock 98 silverado at 110k and my buddy blew his in his lingenfelter lt1 camaro after 150k. Admittedly I was hard on my rear end, and he babied his either way upgrade it!
Christopher Long
Hey op. You should look into a Moser m9. It's a monster of a 9" and comes built to bolt right into your car. I had one on a 2002 z28 after blowing the 10 bolt all over the strip. The moser diff was indestructible. I was running a 408 iron block at 11.5:1 with a 300 shot and was flirting with the 9s. Moser diff took 4 years of hard launches on 11.5 wide slicks without so much as checking fluid levels. And the adjustable torque arm on it made lifting the front wheels super easy if I wanted to.
Cooper Smith
Turbo it.
Ive got 300rwhp from my stock LS1 and its literally cheaper to keep it unopened and boost it.
Only thing ill open it up for is sump and rear main gaskit at some point.
Honestly even a used supercharger will yield almost as good numbers or better than a midsize turbo
Good luck LSbro im over my stock engine as well.
If you are looking at power adders you will get at least 550hp+ reliably
Me i'd be happy with 400-500hp on a mild tune because of shit country octane
Tyler Rodriguez
Yeah I'm in the camp of getting a new rear before anything else. I understand the 10 bolt in a 4l60e takes punishment better than the m6. I had an a4 Camaro for years and only the axle shafts gave me issues. But your putting out decent power and plan on doing more? Dump the 10 bolt and have Midwest chassis build you a new rear. Especially if you track it. If you can afford a new engine outright, then do that and sell the ls1 to pay for a new rear. Would hate to finish up the new engine and then blow out your ass.
