Discussion for those of us who are too poor to afford vehicles we can get inside

He probably means runtime, but you'd need a bigass solar panel to make any impact.

>Battery tech doesnt limit battery life
I meant actual capacity dickhead but sure ok whatever

>got the shitty nitro running
>air temp changes 0.0001 degrees
>spend 30mins fucking with the engine
>finally works
>cops come to tell you neighbors have complained of noise

See The battery on my car puts out a conservative 100a at full tilt, with 7.4 volts, you're looking at over half a killawatt.

screwed up my post, see this

>running 2s in 2016

kek

>range
>battery life
Serious question, were you dropped on your head as a baby potato?
But seriously,
>battery dies after 15 minutes
>swap spare battery in
Not that hard, dumbass.

Any reason not to? My motor overheats as is during the summer, can't exactly put more power into it. Maybe when I upgrade my motor and esc.

>see cops coming
>know they have nothing on your nitro car
>literally can't compete
>take off up the street with blistering pace
>accelerate to 60mph in the blink of an eye
>forget the nitro car is remotely controlled
>constable plod is now standing next to me

Make your RC car really big so you can get inside.

>not shredding up diffs, snapping driveshafts and stripping pinion gears with 6s.
>not running heatsink on motor
>not pushing esc, motor to the point where it releases magic smoke.

kek

Since you seem to be knowledgable, any way I can cool the motor on pic related?

Not the range on the remote, asshat.

>brushed motor for anything but rock crawling
>pushing lipo power through a small brushed 540
>complains about overheating
>runs brushed in 2016
>can't fit an effective size heatsink on motor with out cutting plastics

kek.

It's the motor that came with the kit :(

My controller can handle brushless, I just need to get one and I literally have no money. That aside, would there be much of an issue if I did cut some plastic?

I was talking about Drone application not carpark benchracing FAGGOT

look, you can cut the plastics, but i don't know if it will affect the rigidity of the motor.
when under load, if the motor doesn't have enough support, the mesh between the pinion and spur will change. you might end up shredding those gears.
don't worry about a heatsink, just run it till the motor pops. and if you can't afford a brushless,
get a replacement brushed motor for 10 dollars.

RC in an expensive hobby, and to keep things running it gets expensive. its just how it works.

Thanks for the advice. I do plan on upgrading it to brushless as soon as I have money (which will be soon). What's a reasonably priced motor that I will see a good improvement with?

this

i own 2 nitro road cars, both kyosho fazers

they're both sitting in a plastic box. one completely dismantled and the other without the ignition pull starter thing because it melted and snapped.

they've been sitting in that box for about 3 years now. i should pull them out and see what i do with them.

I'm sorry, I didn't realise the principles changed between something with wheels and something with no wheels.
>battery dies after 15 minutes
>swap spare battery in
Are you intellectually disabled?

You've got 2 halves of a coconut and you put wheels on 'em!

get some cheapo china shit from hobbyking.
but their stuff is hit or miss. you can end up with a good set, or have a dodgy esc, or motor go up in flames. if you want quality, castle makes good stuff. but it comes at a price. upgrading to brushless on your car might not be such a good idea though, its a lot more power,
and you might start seeing your hex adapters getting stripped (if plastic) or gears getting shredded. of course, that's if your rc was designed for brushed in the first place.

Yall are retarded, I've got a fully built Rustler VXL with custom rear A arms in the front to extend the front wheels along with custom tie rods to place it exactly, its been dremeled tf out to make the battery bay fit the biggest hobbyking lipo nanotech inside, and I have a fully built Castle 6S Slash 4x4 which i did the LCG chassis swap and aluminum caster and c blocks, 4wd obviously and center diff sway bars and super dank gladiator tires.

>inb4 not cleaning your good clay tires after a good run for muh grip

It's a Tamiya DT-03 chassis and I have the upgraded bearings and pretty much everything that has teeth is made of metal so it should do fine with brushless. Like I said, my controller can already handle brushless so that's not a problem. I'm more interested in what turn count and kv I should be looking for?

and i've got a e-revo with a lst diff swap and a billet aluminium bulkhead. running a the stock brushless system at 6s.

i've got a lost 8ight-te running a mamba monster esc and a 2200kv motor at 6s.
i've got a hpi sprint 2 flux geared to run 120/km/h on 3s.

whats your point?

the kv of the motor depends on the gearing and tire size. if you geared tall go for a low kv with lots of torque. gear low, go for a high kv motor.

I used to have a Revo. Converted from nitro to electric because nitro was a bitch. Electronics and motor fried within a couple months. Plus everything else was constantly breaking because it's no fun to keep them on the ground.

I probably had more invested in that than I spent on my shitbox. Total waste of money.

is that a B4?

kek
your first mistake was getting a revo

tru. second mistake was getting cheap parts for the conversion.

>e got a lost 8ight-t
I was just talking shit about the nitro's here haha and you? Whats your point?

>I was just talking shit about the nitro's here haha and you? Whats your point?

just to show off what i got.

>Tfw testing giant 4 stroke nitro engines right outside my dorm at 3am
>no fucks given cause engineering school
Feels gud man

Lads what if I want to get an RC shitbox and have a setup for under 150 bucks
I'd be okay nigger rigging it with zip ties and duct tape
What do

What do you guy think of my 2wd slash?

Look for used traxxas stuff on ebay.

What's powering it? Also nice wheels.

get a job you lazy twats

>too poor to afford vehicles we can get inside.
>spends money on gay remote control cars

prioritise faggots

Haha, my Audi is the the shop (obviously) so I'm driving my Lexus to work currently. RC cars were always paid for when I was younger because I WORKED.

>get a job you bus riders

I finally fixed the steering on my dt-03 and did some dirt donuts.

isn't nitro faster? I used to have one as a kid and it shat all over my friends electric cars.

no one is really into models or physical activity of any kind now that computer simulation is up to par

why not just power it from the solar panel
aside from the radio gear ofc

I have the electric version of that
under steers like a pig and rocks keep getting caught in the steering arms

car costs $350 a year even if you are not using it

Not anymore. High end brushless is gonna beat the shit out of any nitro.

IS THAT A FUCKING COCONUT

If you want something to rip around dunes with, buy a 1/5 scale Hpi Baja buggy. Runs on premix gas, not nitro, so way less finicky, and gas is cheap. Downside is it costs about a grand.

Indeed it is. I know imgur is cancer, but here's a link to the buildlog: imgur.com/a/u59uM

>under steers like a pig
so just like a real Subaru

This. Not to mention infinitely easier to use.
For a fun tinkerer an thrasher though, I still love Nitro.

Build quality on race models have made such leap forward in the last years.