Convince me not to buy an FC RX-7 Veeky Forums

Convince me not to buy an FC RX-7 Veeky Forums.

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If you do everything right and have fun and take care of the car, it won't live up to the meme

>no ecoboost

Yeah I dont plan on ripping the fuck out of it, though the gas mileage is what's really keeping me away from it.

>4 piston calipers stock
>brake coolers stock
>tight chassis
>ergonomic interior
>light weight
>large aftermarket
>great for freeway, touge, track, drift, gymkhana, street, drag, rally
>easy to work on
>feels amazing to drive
>timeless design
>more aerodynamic than most modern cars
>designed to be driven hard all the time
I cant think of a reason not to.

Buy it and immerse yourself into the world of doritos and screaming revs.

N/A's are reliable and solid drivers, If you can find a Turbo II jump on it.

It looks slightly less agressive and sportsy than the FD.


Otherwise, no reason at all. FC is top tier hakahashi red sun machine.

>S5 bumper on 10ae
Absolutely disgusting

Can't drive a rotary without accepting the fact that it will always get bad mpg's. Although I've heard some crazy stories of people milking 25+ highway with special tuning and mad granny skills.

But gas mileage is for nerds anyways, so do yourself a favor anyways and buy it.

Yeah the design looks way ahead of its time. Also I didn't know you can rally a rotary, never have seen it done before

FD's are going for a about 25k where I live, I would pick one up but I wont have money for mods.

youtube.com/watch?v=N-hMT3iIMQY

Mazda ran an FB in Group B, though not very successful with the take over of 4WD.

I got 25 highway and 10 city without a tune

It's the best looking car of all time and comes with doritos. I would love one

It looks like a third generation Camero, only worse.

>he thinks a turd gen camaro has better looks than an FC

>just picked up an rx7 guys

>looks physically heavy and slow
>no good body lines
>just flat, uninspired shit lines
>long as fug
>no pop ups
Totally an rx7

Looks like a crappy camaro

I can almost feel the sadness from it.

No

Buy the "New RX7" book by Jack Yamaguchi.

Literally the entire development of the FC from day 1 to completion in late 85. All the info you would ever need stock.

Then start looking into some of these rad as fuck esoteric knowledge rotary tuning books that tell you the mad skid secrets.

Mine is an 88 SE with a sunroof that I've put a turbo II diff under the back of. Otherwise stock but I have everything I need for the 5 lug conversion short of wheels. Waiting to free some money up to do it. Thinking of getting a set of the 'vert BBS wheels and putting replica turbofans on for more aero.

The FC is aerodynamic as fuck by the way. .31 from the factory and .29 with the dealer option aero undertray (which some niggas called LRBspeed replicate - also been waiting to put that on.)

Honestly if you're worried about the milage do the master race thing and buy the FC and then an $800 CRX. That being said you can make gainz. Lower is more aero, undertray is more aero, etc.

Looking at buying a 4x8' piece of alumalite to do nearly a full undertray right now desu.

Should I look for a 90-91 model? I heard they have a higher max rpm and a bunch of new interior upgrades.

It depends on if you'll mawd or not.

Zenki and Kouki are really fucking similar as far as the motors go except the compression ratio is slightly different, both in turbo and NA.

If you had to buy only one and never mod or tune, but needed as much power as possible, get the late model/S5/Kouki. But it has auto seatbelts. Otherwise the power potential of either is similar. But like most aspiring and current FC owners you're probably poor and therefore will buy an NA and then think for years about turboing it and ultimately just swap in a turbo engine anyway rather than turbo the 6 port NA block.

S4 will do that higher RPM if the limiter is removed and I believe most of the HP gain on the S5 cars is because of that higher rev range.

Beyond auto seatbelts I think not much in the interior was changed with the S5 and it's mostly exterior moldings being different. Depends on if you really like one or the other, but they're not that different.

Ultimately, for the average person:
Nah, buy whatever has less mileage/$$$ rather than discounting S4 or S5 off the bat.

You look like a third gen Camaro, but worse

FC is pure 80's sex

Also, if you do decide to tune, no shit, there is a lot of power to be made with a simple streetport and a carb intake on an NA car. Talkin' 40+ before exhaust shit. The intake market is pretty much two styles of carb intake and one weird CNC chinese EFI one that's kind of okay by most reports. Racing beat are your friends for most stuff.

That said just try and remember it's not about dem raw ayhce peece, submit yourself to the initial D and get really good at going down touges and curves fast. Coilovers are available as fuck, so save yourself the time and skip the aftermarket springs + struts option. It's a bandaid that'll only cost you money you should have thrown into the coilovers. Sway bars are also very available at cheap enough. Full suspension bushings are under $200. Car probably needs them at the age they're at unless it's already been done.

Either learn to work with the DTSS bushings or get eliminators. If you get eliminators you will be considered a subhuman, though.

The rear wheel turn from the DTSS is fucking godlike if you understand the exact suspension loading required to activate it and how much angle you can expect out of it.

>wanker engine

One more question, how true is the apex seals meme? I worried about having to rebuild my engine at a stealership if it happens.

Dealerships probably won't be doing rebuilds. At least not on FCs. Learn to rebuild yourself, there's three moving parts and it's simple as fuck. Just watching a rotary rebuild video compared to like a 350 rebuild video will increase your confidence a shitload.

It's only mildly true on the turbo cars. 145k miles is the threat point for them. Not that they all begin failing here, but that's where you need to factor a rebuild into your budget just to be safe, or if you can REALLY afford it, buy and rebuild straight up. People who turn the boost way the fuck up on old apex seals are the ones who end up grenading shit.

That said, if you do want to run high boost, there are a variety of aftermarket apex seals available that are both much stronger under boost and simultaneously less likely to damage the housings or rotors if they do fail.

Watch for engines that smoke excessively on start. They may have coolant seal or other failures. I cannot stress enough how much rotaries dislike being overheated. You're pretty likely to either fuck up a coolant oring or worse, warp a housing. Rebuild required for sure if you have either of those happen. Read the FAQ at RX7forums.com religiously a couple times once you get the car.

Have a sketchy broken phone night pic.

I´ts a meme car.

Coolant seal failures are somewhat common on these cars. Apex seal failures are almost unheard of on stock cars.

207k and no failures yet. As long as you find one with decently low mileage I think you don't have anything to worry about if it's NA.

>unironically wanting a rotary

Because you like driving cars for the experience. Not the constant buzzing and droning and vibrating at 5,000 RPMs on the highway you get from a tin can like the FC.

And I hope you fucking love mufflers. Mazda, builds an engine with a single exhaust outlet, that makes enough noise that even with a turbo charger still needs a catalytic converter, a pre-silencer and a muffler. All extremely small and tiny diameter so that the sound can be silenced so much that your neighbors don't call the police on you every time you start it up.

And don't fucking get me started on daily stop and go fucking traffic. Every minute feeling like hours as your body fights the urge to pull over and cry because you decided going with an open exhaust to the meet up was a good idea.

And good luck trying to not sound like a smug douche when you try to talk about how awesome your car is, because so few people have driven a rotary powered car that they don't have a reference to compare it to.

And after all that daily driving, motonous buzzing and bombing back and forth, and miserable daily experience, of never having the volume loud enough on your tv at home, and your girlfriend asks why you dont listen to her any more, and all you reply with is "Why are you whispering?" every time you see someone hit their breaks rounding a corner, or find a twisty country road and you find yourself hitting those switch backs faster and faster, cornering harder and harder, pushing yourself right to the edge of your abilities and you realize you have a car that not only is more capable then you, but you want to learn how to use the automotive equivalent of a scalpel in a world of automotive Billy clubs.

Now if only you'd make a hearing aid appointment and have a relationship with your girl again.

Who needs girls when you have the D?

...

i daily drove an FB for a year delivering pizzas. It had a hole in the cat where the air pump connector rusted off. It wasn't that loud.

youtu.be/xW9VR4Bt2kQ

Loud as fuck.

Lol youre insane
All this almost correct "information"
You were so close.
Ill come correct things after ive had my coffee

>Trusting ESL mongoloids who can't even use apostrophes
Just preempting your sure-to-be-incorrect "corrections" by discrediting you as a human being.

Nigga im a rotary mechanic.
Ive been working on rx7s for 15 years.
>.29 with the dealer option aero undertray
A lot more went into that than just an under tray. It was the sport model aero kit. Uncluded a wing and little side pieces in front of each wheel.
>Zenki and Kouki are really fucking similar as far as the motors go except the compression ratio is slightly different
Stop saying zenki and kouki you weeb
The motors have A LOT of differences.
7k rpm redline vs 8k
The reason fpr the difference was a combination of compression, VDI, Hardened stat gears, tuning, lighter rotors, and lighter flywheel for S5
Not to mentions S5s had more electronics, a CEL, electronic oil metering, weighed more, and broke a lot more.
>turbo the 6 port NA block
This is a terrible idea
>I believe most of the HP gain on the S5 cars is because of that higher rev range
Wrong. Read above
>there is a lot of power to be made with a simple streetport and a carb intake on an NA car. Talkin' 40+
Not even close buddy boy.
You can make more with efi and engine management. But not 40hp on a street port.
>submit yourself to the initial D
Submit yourself to a noose
>Coilovers are available as fuck, so save yourself the time and skip the aftermarket springs + struts option
Coilovers arent automatically better. Ive out handled many FCs in mine with KYBs and tanabe springs. Its all about setup.
Ive probably missed some things too. But my coffee is now ready

fuck
fairly btfo'd

but you have to admit the S5 wouldn't have made that extra power at an 8k redline.

those are all modified cars, of course they're going to be loud.

Absolutely zero reason not to buy one. Fantastic car; future classic. Simple bolt-ons make them very fun.

a e s t h e t i c

the interior plastics are probably decomposed by now, and are fragile as fuck, stock seats were ok in the 80's, and probably shot by now, BUT has a well designed cabin that if the weather seals are in good shape, keep in AC pretty well.

god i miss mine. my dad the mister racecar man totaled it showing off with my brother.

i got it non running, and fixed it with the help of 2004 era forums, and unlimited printing privileges at college.

Are there any specific reason as to why the S5 motors have reliability issues?

Is it better to buy an S4 over an S5 or vice versa?

I prefere S4.
S5 used a halfway gauge for temperature. So people assumed that when the needle reached half that the car was fully warmed up.
So they flogged on it, when in reality it was still under 100 degrees. This caused premature wear and seal failures.
Electronic oil metering pump also couldnt keep up with its duty and caused premature wear.
Plus added weight. Added check engine light that is useless
Dual TPS that is always out of wack at this age.
VDI is usually broken
Cant eliminate emissions equipment with CEL and VDI elimination. So you will end up not gaining anything except a cleaner engine bay and a CEL.
They were less aerodynamic

The good stuff is they removed the EGR from the intermediate housing.
They didnt put 3 cats on them
The interior quality is better than S4
A slight bump in power. But the weight offsets that.

I dunno. S4 is just so simple and easy comparatively.
I dont even like working on S5s

Thanks for the reply, another question.

Speaking solely about power potential and performance modifications, are S5 motors better in that regard or are S4 motors equally as capable despite being a little older?

S5s have more potential because of higher compression and higher redline.
Best of both worlds can be had though by combining s5 and s4 parts.
Or throwing s5 rotors and stat gears in a T2 block and running it NA. Ive seen that setup do 200whp.

How reliable are Turbo II's by the way, Do they break more often than the N/A's or need more periodic maintenance?

From what I'm aware of most of the reliability memes came from the FD, I never hear much from the Turbo II side though.

T2s are very reliable. But will lose compression sooner than the NA.
Think 150k miles. Then rebuild.
The more power you push, the sooner it will need rebuilt.

Are seals mostly the only thing that need to get done on a mileage/schedule based rebuild? Or is there anything else that needs to be replaced?

Is there anything you can do to boost the longevity besides premixing?

>10 city
top fucking kek it's a semi truck

they're good in the snow too

Just like any engine, everything needs to be inspected and replaced if beyond a certain tolerance.
IMO premixing can help. But its so mild that i dont think its worth the cost. Ive ran stock OMP well over 200k miles without issue.
But ive dont the same with 2stroke too. Some people swear by it. I dont think its worth it.
No other way to keep it running longer besides making sure everything is working properly. Which they usually are.

>has never seen a live mpg reading
Lol
17 or 18 combined isnt bad for a sports car.

On that note, Do you think sohn adapters are worth installing?

Do more powerful/modified rotaries benefit from premix or is it just placebo?

Sohn adaptors make the engines life easier. Yes. 2 stroke is meant to burn
But its either top off the 2 stroke tank. Or top off the engine oil.
Its all relative when NA.
I would be more likely to use 2stroke on a turbo engine just because of higher stress. Although lubrication isnt the #1 killer of turbo motors

>more aerodynamic than most modern cars
>FC Cd: 0.33
>2011 Durango: 0.33
>2014 C-class: 0.24
Just because it's wedge shaped doesn't mean it's aerodynamic. Surprisingly enough.

Its actually .31 and .29
But you dont seem to know how Cd works

What kills turbo rotaries the most then? I'd assume heat or something damaging the gaskets.

Bad tunes. Going lean.
Usually a user error like cranking up boost without tuning.
Getting heat out is important too.

I've heard lean spikes being a killer on RX-8's, are they commonplace or just result of bad tuning?

Rx8s have their own little world of issues.
Its not common for FCs to randomly go lean

not cooling down, kills turbos and all engines that run hot. there is a reason all the turbo street tech cars had turbo timers in the 90's and early to mid 00's.

there was a guy that worked at Rod Millens shop and did those 3 rotor swaps that said if you aint running a turbo timer, you gotta sit there till the oil temp drops before shutting the car off. he was also a big proponent of a very robust (read overbuilt an oversized as he could make fit) cooling system and water injection systems on the cooling system. se if they still have that electric hi output waterpump for FC and FD's.

running lean is a fucking pain in any rotary engine. My friends and family from puerto rico learned this from the old guys that ran rotaries in the 70's and 80's, and now run them rich as fuck to avoid blowing the apex seals.

if you can, put some high octane avgas in it now and again, if you are going to run it hard. honestly it needs a megasquirt with multiple fuel maps to see true benefit from it, but its better to have too high an octane than too low.

S4 interior plastics are fragile as fuck, be careful when doing anything with them. Parts are starting to get hard to find. I had a lot of fun with my S4 Turbo 2, but when it came down to deciding to keep it or keep my clean s13 240sx I sold it for $$$ and went to Japan for 2 weeks. No regrets.

I daily drove an fb for a long time too
Stock exhaust was super duper loud, the replacement with three mufflers was barely any quieter

>tfw leave it running in car park with passenger in sear
> 200m away from car inside building
> can still hear it idling

>tfw perfect condition S5 GXL
>full black interior
>everything works perfectly
>even the auto adjust suspension

is it true i can redline a dorito engine and not give a fuck

Yes to an extent