Haggling at car dealership

No.

Nah, smart 'muricans use craigslist and avoid stealerships like the plague

ok.

Where do you buy your cars then, Veeky Forums? Paco with all the shady hookups?

Depends on a few factors
Cash or finance.

Don't ever lease, it's a waste of money.

In either cash or finance, always talk about 'on the road price' not car price. The on the road price is the total cost after taxes and AC tax and doc tax. Immdeitly jump on 'i don't wanna pay doc fees, i don't wanna pay for the freight and shit' btw try buying cars already at the dealership, it means you can argue down freight and bullshit cost. Cos what the fuck, i didn't ask for this car to be brought in for the factory, why are you passing this cost to me?

Cash: NEVER mention you are paying by cash until you have talked down the price significantly, then when they won't budge further ask 'how much can you do for me, if i pay by cash' they will ALWAYS lower the price.

finance: Try to finance at the longest term, but try and pay it off before the term. It's an open loan and all that. Also try going to dealerships and asking around for how much they can lower finance rates. Nissan is great with the 1.99% at 7 years.

Also as a general rule, don't buy a used car from a dealer. They'll always burn you, and no they don't really do all that much better with the 'peace of mind' that it was inspected. Dealer used are hardly ever properly inspected.

Bumper to bumper warranty is nice though, but it depends on the car you buy. youtube.com/watch?v=MzQCj-dbgN0

>Being this bad at haggling
>bought a car 3000 below website MSRP
>On the road

Only thing i'm a bit mad about is he didn't let me chose a custom plate. It was gonna be Nii-San

>Bad at haggling
Wat, I guess I should have said it was a used older car. Got it for 5k cash

bump

call the biggest dealerships within your area. Ask for the sales or floor manager. Tell him what you want and ask for his best number. Let him know your calling other dealships and getting bottom numbers. Bought 2016 base civic for 14k out the door this way

oh your going to really want that trucoat

The way I was taught was to always start low, ticket says 9k say you want it for 6-7k. If they never come down to what you want, give them your number and leave. Usually they will call with a better deal within a few hours.

It's easier to knock down prices on a used car than a new car, with every year you can add more to knock down the price.

t.family of used car salesmen.

I agree that leasing is a waste of money.

Conversely, dealers don't give a fat shit about you paying cash. It doesn't give them any incentive. Financing on the other hand gets them kickbacks from the lenders they refer customers to, so if you plan to finance through them you can get discounts.

You know some of your stuff, but here's how to buy a car at rock bottom price:

>Get pre-approved by a credit union or bank for the lowest rate loan you can find.
>Know exactly what car and trim you want. Be aware of all incentives and offers.
>Locate every dealership that has your model in stock in a 50 mile area. Compare prices.
>New cars have their online price included with veteran, uber driver, and graduate discounts. This usually means the price will be anywhere from 1.5-2k higher depending on the dealership.
>5 days before the end of the month, send out an individual email to all the dealers within your 50 mile radius asking for their lowest price on the car. Mention that you're ready to buy before the month ends. Get dealer emails by putting in an inquiry on the dealer's website, they aren't available otherwise normally.
>Blood is now in the water. Select the dealerships with the best ratings and lowest price that was offered to you in the email. Spend the next 2-3 days haggling over email and citing offers from other dealerships. Some will budge, others will not. Don't be discouraged if nobody budges.
>The second to last day of the month is when you go out to the dealer that offered the lowest price. You drive the car, make sure you like it, and then put down a deposit for ~$500.00. Say something like you want your wife to see the car the next day before you buy it. They're lying, so can you, it's part of the game.
>The next day, the last day of the month, go to the 2nd lowest and third lowest dealerships. Tell them the offer you currently have from the deposit dealer and ask if they can beat it. If they do, great.
>Continued...

>Now you go balls out.
>Ask for another $300 off for the following reasons:
>You don't want the add-ons (free oil changes, car washes, tires)
>You will give them perfect scores on Yelp, cars.com, cargurus, dealerrater.com (don't be a dick and not do it afterwards)
>You're willing to finance with them if they can match your credit union's rate.
>You will buy GAP insurance through them if you're buying new.

>Read everything carefully in the finance office.
>Buy GAP insurance if you're buying new. Lowest costs are around $250 bucks.
>Call the other dealerships and ask for your deposits back. Don't accept "no" for an answer.
>Drive safely, and DO THOSE REVIEWS.

Using this method I got a:
>2016 Chevy Sonic LS Stick for $12,300.00 out the door with a $700 trade-in.
>2016 Kia Soul Base Stick for $13,800 out the door with an $800 trade-in.

Good luck, be assertive, and don't get four-squared. Pic related, it's me with my new car.

>top tier carbuying tactics
>only uses them to acquire korean shitboxes

Stop meme-ing kid and do some actual research. Modern cars are built to last.

>modern cars are built to last
>doesn't matter what car i buy, it'll last
sure thing dude

>THIS UGLY FUCKER IS BUYING BASE MODEL SHIT BOXES AND BASICALLY YOU'RE FUCKING STUPID! CLICK HERE TO LEARN ONE SIMPLE TRICK!

Lol. I payed ~36,000 for a 42,000 MSRP (including manufacturer incentives and shit) no trade in. I think i'll stick to what I've learned. Enjoy your base model shitboxes.

2016 Nissan Rogue, yea it's a family hauler but that's what i needed. Besides it's very comfy, and has most of the options and accessories. Never knew how great blind spot detection and auto dimming mirrors was. Also fucking hell CVT a shit. But this map and shit system is cool, also Bose sound system really is good. My 70s rock sounds great.

>GM world car
>Kia

Look nigger, i know modern cars are great and the meme of planned obsolescence is a meme. But GMs daewoo upgraded by koreans with an engine by opel is NOT a car built to last. Neither is a kia soul, but for other reasons.

Watch out for a plastic intake pipe deteriorating on that Sonic, also if that happens replace really fast and don't dally cos otherwise the catalytic converter/manifold goes and that costs a bit to replace. Though should be covered under warranty.

Kia soul is FINE, just FINE. Though noisy and it's 1.6 liter is Ok at best. The 2.0 makes more MPG because of DI unlike the 1.6, but the 1.6 is the only one that comes with standard.

what shit are you trading in that you aren't getting at least 1500 for it?

Use a broker, they do the haggling for you.

Get a new car and ask about the Costco discount and you'll get $200 below invoice which is usually $1800-2500 below the MSRP. All the retards hating on dealerships are poorfags that buy used dog shit off Craigslist or own a bus pass.

>Work at a dealership. See cheap fucks all around ITT.

Think of it like this. At the supermarket homo milk costs more than 2%. But you don't go to the checkout counter and demand to pay the price of 2% for homo milk. So why do you feel the need to do so at the dealership?

Because that's the point of your existence, if i just wanted to pay a price tag i would go to a retail store. You don't just buy a house, you make an offer and fight for a price until both parties agree, same thing with a car.

The whole purpose of dealerships existing is so that car companies can't rip off consumers, by having dealerships be a mediator. And dealerships are also businesses, they have a markup for selling a car, and that's what you argue against because there is no standard price of car other than MSRP unlike milk.

bring in truecar prices. most reputable dealerships will sell to about the price shown on true car. the dealership i got my mazda 3 at loaded up the truecar price when we were discussing price and that was their offer

...

I watch RCR too.
Thanks for the insight. The 2016 Sonic is fitted with a different material air intake. I still check it all the time anyway.

We don't have much cash to throw around. Both my Aveo and my wife's Mazda3 were rusted, needing maintenance, New tires, we were basically just trading in for convenience.

I can't find any problems with the Soul. Perfect hauler for the family. We needed reliable cars for the next 10 years which is why we bought new.

You payed 36,000 for a Nissan Rogue? Why?

Did you actually pay that much for a Rogue? The highest trim MSRPs for 36k, lowest trim MSRPs for 24k. What happened? What extras did you get? I can't find a dealer within 500 miles of Chicago that lists the MSRP you gave.

Also, judging a vehicle's cost by MSRP is a huge mistake. The SL invoices for 28k. I'm genuinely curious what you actually bought.

10/10
I love this exchange.

>sees basic math
>has to hire an accountant to do basic percentages and addition

It's really not that hard to do.

Don't fix your sights on a specific vehicle or you're gonna get baited into making a shitty deal. Dealers can tell when you're in love with a car and they'll leverage that. Be ready to walk on any car and follow through on it - there's plenty of nice cars and if you keep looking, at some point you'll find a dealer willing to negotiate.

Of course if you find a really nice one that has a fair sticker price, try to haggle it down a bit but if they won't budge and you feel the car is worth the price, just buy it. Maybe haggle down the added fees and whatnot.

Never ever ever pay more than the sticker price though, that's just getting ripped off.

Back in the day you could buy at the factory and drive off for four grand less than the stealershit would ask.

Most states outlaw that now because stealershit bribes.

as far as I know dealers just laugh at mass emails and trash that shit immediately

Read all this garbage only to get to the end and see that you simply use it to jew a few bucks off of the worst shitbox cars possibly available.

Fuck you for wasting my 30 seconds.

the guy has not mentioned where he's from and cars are generally more expensive outside of the US

>What's the best way to get a good price at a dealership?
Work there.

When will this leasing is bad meme die? You pay at most half the price of the car when you lease, it's not our fault you retards get talked into paying 90% of what the car is worth when you lease

Leases expect perfect car condition upon return (or the dealer rapes you to fix whatever minor scratch), they typically only include 12,000 miles per year (subjecting you to substantial overages if you happen to exceed it for whatever reason), and you get ZERO EQUITY IN THE CAR WHEN YOU'RE DONE. You've taken the brunt of the depreciation with nothing to show for it at the end.

No they dont. You can abuse the shit out of the engine and if there's any problems they have to fix it. Dents and shit yeah obviously you got to fix that shit and most dealer ships only charge you a quarter per mile you go over which ain't bad. You don't have to worry about new tires or the car turning into a lemon and you can abuse the engine.

>Inb4 some retards says dealers don't cover mechanical problems on leases

Yes they do

I only bought one vehicle at a dealership.
>they're asking $20k+fees and taxes which came out to be $21,400 or something
>take vehicle for test drive, everything checks out
>tell salesmen I'm going to go check out a couple of other local trucks
>get food, salesmen shoots me a text asking if I want to come talk price
>go back to dealer, salesmen asks if I'll be financing
>tell him I have cash
>tell him there's a couple issues with the vehicle etc and I'm looking at like $16k right now
>goes to manager/whoever, comes back with offer of like $17,800 plus fees and taxes which would be like $19,100
>kind of annoyed, tell him to cut the shit, get rid of the dumb doc fees, and get me out the door for $17,600
>goes and talks to manager, says congrats on the new vehicle and shakes my hand

I'm not a great negotiator but hey still got nearly $4k off on a used vehicle. Think they wanted it gone pretty bad.

He specifically said to send individual emails to the dealerships though

Let's propose a theoretical situation to highlight why leasing is one of the worst financial situations to put yourself in outside of very specific circumstances.

John wants a bmw. He decides to lease a $40k car for half the cost, $20k. The lease is for 2 years, and a standard term contract. 15k or so miles per year, all regular service is covered if done at the dealership, car must meet standards when turned back in at end of lease. After one month the car depreciated by approximately 30%. At the end of the 2 years it has depreciated 40%. John turns in his car and leases another one and repeats the cycle, paying $10k per year to drive the newest car every two years. But he can't go on road trips or live too far from work otherwise he exceeds his mileage permitance. And forget doing any modifications.

Joe also decides to get a bmw, same model as John. Pays $40k over 5 years with .9% apr. But he pays the car off after 2 years cause he's not an idiot. So approximately $41k. After those 2 years his car is worth approx. $22k. His regular service is 1k per year cause bmw. But he cuts that to 200 by doing his own service. And he decides to make some modifications, catback headers turbo whatever doesn't matter he can do what he wants. He keeps the stock parts cause he's not an idiot. Drives the fuck out of his car. Decides to sell it a few years later. Puts his pristine oem parts back on and sells it for 18k, about what its worth. Then he sells his after market stuff on eBay for 60% of what he payed. And uses his 20k to put a down payment on another car. Or maybe a house. Or maybe he keeps the car forever cause he likes it. Doesn't really matter what he does cause he owns it. Point is that 20k is sitting on his driveway if he ever needs it.

If Joe keeps his car for 4 years he is spending as much as John. If he keeps it for 5 or more years he spends less to drive than John does. That's why leasing is stupid

In case you're wondering, Canadaroos not USD so the number is bigger up here.

And it's fully loaded with all the accessories and autisms. What the fuck is the point of this chrome protector? Idk who cares, auto dimming mirrors are OP and all that shit. Oh but didn't get the rear 2 seats, they looked tiny as fuck and take away from storage.

Also these fog lights are kinda lame, they can't really be turned on individually they're just connected to the other lights i think.

Overall, 10/10 interior so comfy the rear seats move back and forth like the front. The car is slow as a slug and i wish for a manual because i know that cvt is slowing it down, because my 99 CRV has less power to weight and is more perky.

Because it's not a meme. It's literally renting a car, and no matter how little you pay, at the end of the day it's better to just finance and end with your own car.

>Oh but didn't get the rear 2 seats, they looked tiny as fuck and take away from storage.
pretty sure you can remove those when you're not using them, they do come in very handy from time to time, I miss my 7 seater desu

Slightly off topic but I might get into a dealer auction tomorrow, any tips about how to read reports and get the best deal? Are cars bought at dealer auctions generally around the price of trade-ins or private party sales? I technically have slightly greater leeway since I don't need to worry about making a profit on a car but I don't want to go in and get my shit stomped in because I underestimated the market value of whatever meme car I'm looking to get

You then say, no, and walk out of there. Then you go to another place that sells the same car, and repeat it. You then talk to the first place about the better offer you got from the second place. Then you call the second place, inform them of the new offer, or you go to a third place and repeat the process.

This really only works for newer cars, I haggled the price on my toyota avensis almost like 10 000 dollars. However, this was around the time of the crash, and dealerships were desperate to sell cars, and i spent quite a lot of time calling between (i think 7?) different dealerships. The manager was pretty pissed and told me he never wanted to see me again, but he sold me the car. Not sure he even made money on that sale.

Some good advice there. One thing... never let them know you are financing the car because then their discussion will center around your monthly payment, not the price of the car.

For example, you walk in and see a car with a MSLP of $25,000. You mention that you will be financing it. A 4 year loan on the car may shake out to $550/month.

You tell them that is too high, that you want to be less than $500/mo so they suggest a 60-month lease that comes in around $450/mo. They have now met your monthly budget without budging on the price of the car.

Negotiate the price of the car first, THEN discuss financing.

No, that's the problem, they fold flat but you can't remove them. and they take away from that 'DIVIDING' storage meme.

This is important, also make sure to get the sales man by the nuts, if he says things you gotta make sure he keeps on it. And yes, never go to finance immediately, always negotiate price of the car first.

Also always finance for the longest term, it's an open loan, it's better you just pay it off before time than have to pay off more per month or whatever you chose.

>You can abuse the shit out of the engine
And they can throw the book at you if you violate. Modern cars have computers with storage, they can prove you modified a tune or redlined it for 30 seconds.

>You don't have to worry about new tires
Wear & tire items don't necessarily count towards the lease/bumper-to-bumper warranty.

John is fucking retarded for not getting a 3 year at 20k. This is why leasing is bad is just a meme. You guys use shit examples

Not all cars have a black box amigo

>Confirmed for lying his ass off and not actually working at a dealership

When the fuck did I say I work at a dealership? A standard lease is 3 years at half the price of the car AT MOST.

Anyone?

Yeah I don't understand what it is with people overpaying for Nissan Rogues. An old coworker also financed a Nissan Rogue for $36,000. I was incredulous. Then our industry took a shit, he couldn't afford his bills, and he's retarded so he he quit paying rent. Next thing you know he's living out of his Rogue and showing me pictures of his girlfriend's suicide attempt while clearly having a mental breakdown.

It all began with that goddamn Nissan.

The best way is to get a job working in particular industries like I do where there is simply no negotiation. I pay under supplier price. 1,000's upon 1,000's of dealerships honor it. You can find out all the ones that do way ahead of time. Go in and pay 1-5% under supplier (not including all discounts and promotions).

TL;DR Get a better job with incentives like that

go at the end of the month for the best possible deal a lot of dealerships want to make numbers for the month so they stop giving a shit about money that makes things a lot easier

if you do this dont let them run your credit you'll just fuck yourself they can see everywhere you've been and it lowers your score a couple of points everytime they run it they then think that you cant get approved then they start thinking about how to fuck you harder

>What's the best way to get a good price at a dealership?

Uh...don't go to one? Seriously, I've worked at dealerships, they do everything they can to fuck you.

One thing that can help, is get pre-approved for a loan at an actual bank, before you go to the dealership. You can use that as leverage, though it doesn't work that great, as they'll immediately offer you a loan that's .01 percent better interest from their bank, which will probably still end up fucking you if you don't go over the terms.

If you really care, study up on how interest is calculated, figure out how to calculate it yourself. Do the math right in front of the salespeople and you'll notice none of their numbers add up because they literally make those up on the spot.

Then once you call them on all their bullshit, they won't sell you a car because they can't make any money on it.

In what world does paying what amounts to a new car every 6 years with zero equity make fiscal sense?

My car will still be worth something after 6 years, and the warranty will have only just run out (ie no major repair costs yet). I can either sell it and be ahead of leasing, or keep it and be a LOT ahead of leasing (albeit owning an older car)

Bleak.

Also, can't you threaten them with some sort of fraudulent activities lawsuit or something if they actually just make stuff up? Don't know the law but that doesn't seem legal.

my nigga what dealership did you work for? I recently just quit from ford

>Not all cars have a black box amigo
Read the manual for a car made in the last three years and it'll mention having an EDR. Most manufacturers keep the data to themselves, although US manufacturers generally provide software to cops that can extract and show telematics data

All versions of the FICO score don't count inquiries more than once for auto loans if they all occur within fourteen days of one another.

Not really fraudulent, they make up a number and people agree to it. They're not forcing you to buy a car, after all, you can say no.

Last place I worked was a chevy dealership, biggest one in the state actually. I remember back in the day we'd have slasher sales. They'd get an idiot with a bullhorn run around the lot and "slash" the prices on cars. They'd write fake numbers on the windshield, like 5 grand more than it's worth, then the slasher guy would come around and "slash" the price down to it's regular price, but to the customer it appeared they just cut 5 gs off. They'd be all excited and buy.

Sounds dumb as fuck, but people fell for this in the hundreds. There'd be 500 people in line waiting to get in on the morning of the sale

>you'll notice none of their numbers add up

Did you mean this literally, or just that they're high and unreasonable? Because if literal.. Seems like fraud or negligence. Either way.

kek thats amazing the best my dealership had was red tag sales same concept but less autistic they also thought that putting up balloons every weekend magically would make people buy

Yes, Literally. That's not even a well known secret, pretty much any dealership does that. They just wing out some numbers, if it's too high, then they'll lower it (usually by extending the length of the loan however) and throw the numbers at you. Once they get the numbers agreeable, they ship it off to the bank, and the bank signs it up. The bank doesn't argue, as the customer already agreed to the terms, no matter how awful they are.

It's kind of like this.
I go up to you and say, "Hey, I'll sell you this rock for three hundred a month, for the next fifteen years."

"you say, ok sign me up!"

You think you got a lawsuit on your hands there man? Yeah, it's a dumb fucking deal, but you agreed to it.

Same thing with the car loans, no the numbers don't add up, they get you to pay as much as you can basically....but you're the one who didn't research it, and didn't go over the numbers yourself, and ultimately agreed on it.

They would also advertise that they would have cars as low as $80 for sale at the slasher sale.

When people showed up to see the $80 car, it would literally be an $80. Literally something we just dragged out of a junkyard, and probably needed thousands of dollars worth of work just to get it road worthy.

Still....people would buy the $80 cars. Salesmen would be pissed because people were always asking if they could finance the $80 car.

When I worked at Pep Boys, they always advertise the Buy 3 tires, get one free sale, which is always going on btw. If you compare prices however, you'll see that their tires are all 33% higher per tire than any of their competitors.

Do the math.

The Sons of bitches in California has the priciest car ever lol

You meant figuratively.

Literally not adding up means the numbers they have you mathematically don't work out to be correct. As if they just spew out ANY number and do the math later, or "make adjustments" just before signing. That's what I thought you meant, which is even shadier than simply preying on the ignorant.

>Literally not adding up means the numbers they have you mathematically don't work out to be correct

Yes, that would be true. Literally.

>As if they just spew out ANY number and do the math later

Yeah, basically.

I really need to finish my guide...

Fuck I hate dealerships so fucking much

Fucking Jews making me haggle for days

Direct sales when?

>Direct sales when?
Only people who don't know why dealerships exist would want direct sales. If it wasn't for dealerships, buying directly unless regulated to fuck would cost way more.

Dealerships are good because when customers complain to them, they go to their local dealer group and complain to them, and that group directly shits on the manufacturer. And dealerships aren't polite about it either.

Without dealerships, manufacturers could charge you what they wanted and you have no basis to argue about price. Not only that, the 'free market' can't protect you when all the manufacturers have agreed upon pricing.

Basically this

Yes, dealerships CAN be shitty as fuck to deal with, but they do keep prices down, especially in the used market. Direct sale/no haggle pricing always results in higher average prices. Want proof (for the used market), just go price an average 5-8 year old shitbox at carmax, then price a comparable shitbox on autotrader

Canadabux, worth less than US bucks.

Nope, most of those are sales gimmicks that don't really overall help your price as much.

Especially employee pricing, that's the biggest meme possible. It basically means that they give you a price that's 'employee pricing' and you can no longer argue on that price. Sometimes it's a thousand dollars cheaper, but that's nothing compared to how much cheaper it could be if you argued.

How desperate are dealers to offload cars? If a used economy car sits for a month, is that an eternity? Will they be more likely to take my lowball offer?

Sitting for months+end of year/MY clouseout+normally a high volume car= your best bet to lowball a dealership.

Dealers don't like cars that sit, because it's value fades the longer it doesn't do anything. So yes a dealer CAN take a lowball offer if the car has sat long enough and the buyer is smart. But there are other things that effect value.

Transmission type, options, color.

A red, manual with no power anything. is a really hard sell.
A silver automatic, with power everything. plenty of offers.
A red manual with power everything. Niche market but sellable.
A silver manual with power everything. Easy sale.
A red automatic with no power anything. Really hard sale for a good price. The dealer knows the poorest first year student will buy this.

And so on. This is a generalization, but it's generally true. White, silver and black and shades there of are the best selling colors. Reds bright blues and so on really hard to sell. Automatics in NA is more valuable. and power everything adds value.

Also i REALLY hope that pic isn't legit.

I love how people who buy cars once every 6 years think they "know" the system and how to #LIFEHACK buying a car.

Salespeople sell cars literally every day. We are much better with the whole process than you are.

How to get the best price on a car, from an actual salesperson [I sell 35 new/used per month on average, CDJR store, sell 350 new/used per month as a whole so not a tiny store in bumblefuck]:

- Find car you want/approximate car you want at your closest dealer, go there and TEST DRIVE THE CAR. Make it known that you are there just to test drive and just going over your options.
- Head home and go online, find other dealers in ~50 mile radius with matching inventory.
- Submit ePrice on vehicle you want, make an email account just for this purpose.
- Receive offers from every dealership --- most initial emails will just be test drive appointment invitations, because BDC employees get paid on appointments. Tell them you want pricing on XXX vehicle, you live in xx ZIP code, financing/leasing/cash purchase, don't be a dick but just lay out your necessary criteria.
- Compare offers and feel free to have dealers try to beat the competing offers.
- Go to dealership that gives you the best quote in writing.
- Buy car

THINGS NOT TO DO:
- You don't need to wait until month end. 90% of manufacturers have Fast Start programs to generate sales in the first half of the month. Sure, some dealers will be desperate to make their sales quota, but you will find that these will most likely be small dealerships whose pricing isn't as good as the big dealership anyway. Big dealerships can afford to sell lots of cars for $500 below net/net because they attain their VGP and get paid for every unit sold -- would you rather sell 50 cars and make $1000 per car, or sell 200 cars, make $200 per car initially, but then get paid $900 per car back from the manufacturer?

con't in next

More DON'Ts:

- Don't try to lie and say you can get the car from another dealership with the "same exact car", we can see what other dealers have in inventory.
- If you find a vehicle you love, but it's the only one in the local area, DONT!!! call around trying to get dealers to give you the best price on the vehicle. You will get stuck buying it from the dealer with the car, because they know they have the only one and can hold you hostage.
- If the price is too good to be true, IT IS!!! I encounter far too many customers who say they got a price "thousands and thousands cheaper" from another dealership but don't know any specifics, like if they have a document/prep fee, added accessories, actually the correct vehicle, etc.
- Don't expect huge money off on popular vehicles. There's a ~10 day market supply for 4 door Wrangler Sport 24S packages. We can and do sell every single one we get for MSRP or higher. The market dictates the price, not you.
- Don't try shopping around without knowing your credit situation or attempting to buy above your means.

Relating to used cars [assuming you are looking for late-model]

- "One Price" dealerships like CARMAX are generally 10-15% more expensive for used vehicles than an OEM selling their own brand pre-owned.
- OEM certified pre-owned carry remainder of factory warranty and are often a good choice.
- Used prices are dictated by days in stock. The longer a vehicle is in stock, the more it is written down. Don't bother asking the salesperson how long the dealership has had the car, 99% of the time they'll say "it just hit the lot!"
- Above being said, just find similar vehicles at other dealerships. Key word being SIMILAR - it does you no good to be looking at a 2014 Hyundai Sonata GLS with 23000 miles for $13995, but comparing it to a 2011 Nissan Altima SV with 41000 miles for $11995. They are not the same thing, so don't expect the same price.
- Ask for their best price up front. Don't like the price? Leave, don't buy it. Call back a week later and see if the price changes, it probably will.

Thank you. But after a certain time and after lowering the price so many times, wouldn't they just sell it at auction? I'm primarily talking about used cars here.

Depends.

Some cars even after sitting for a while and being in weird flavors, still hold enough value for the dealer to make a profit.

Dealers auction cars when it's basically hopeless sale, and are just trying to break even and not lose any money on the car.

Also if you know what you're looking for, and know how cars work, dealer auctioned cars aren't always bad way to get a car.