New (old) car advice

Nope flat out wrong.

Here's your reply retard.

You might be fighting a losing battle, OP. Most RWD cars are more expensive than their (HP, type included) FWD counter parts. Might have to wait till you're older.

Or buy a higher-mileage car and relegate yourself to wrench on it *a lot*

Ilike the concept behind the engine, as far as i can tell it's rougly an half-stroke

I am used to 2t's bullshit, i enjoy the revvy spirit and peaky powerband, but i've never tried a wankel ever

I'm mech eng, so tearing down an engine to me isn't as scary as it might be too others

Quite frankly there is no way i would commute in a car, so even a rekt project wouldn't be too bad
I'm giving myself an year to save up and rethink this decision

I'm already used to wrenching every sunday
>since i DD an Aprilia

While i somewhat agree with this i'd say it takes a whole lot of effort to have fun in a fwd
Awd and rwd on the other end have a lot more potential for good old dumb FUN

Reply from the first-point-reply here. The engine is flawed. It is - concept is cool - still flawed.

Let me put it this way: The Rotary will appease you as an automotive enthusiast on these points:
>Backfires
>Sound (subjective)
>Insurance (does this count? most rotary's are old enough to be low/the RX-8)

Everywhere else it will disappoint. In terms of torque, reliability, [upkeep is relative to wanting to own a nice car], and rebuilds (also a hot topic regarding rotarys, will not touch on this.

Don't get me wrong, rotary's are not the devil - perhaps I came from the wrong camp (see my previous post about running an engine ragged) - I love the car, I do. I never have to ask for grip, the handling is superb (due to coilovers, lowering, and 245 tires), but it just doesn't pack any punch. The typical experience you will have in a rotary is similar to a 130 HP piston-engine car (ask me how I know), it terms of everyday traveling.

If you own a rotary, and you only want to take it out for weekends that's great - you'll have a good time revving the piss out of it.

It's your daily, though; you won't enjoy getting as little as you will for what you put in.

If you don't sympathize with this, however, go for it. Your money, your choice.

Follow up:

Boosting is a bitch: I bought my RX-8 only slightly-modded with the dream to make it something truly, turns out there's not much room: You'll spend about $3k *AT BEST* on proper seals to handle *proper boost*. Your power is pretty much locked: there's no cams, valves, injectors/top-end work to be done. What you have is what you get unless you get insane - once you do you ought to have opted for a piston-based option, because alot more can be had for the price you put in.

The rotary's best point is thrashing it.

There is a reason back in the ITA days the first gen RX7s would be thrashed to hell and back for hours on end.

They would come back to the pits after a 6 hours race, idling like normal.

The Toyota's and Nissan's would have a lumpy higher idle from the extreme wear and tear on it.

Plus thanks to having an IT7 league and the inherent combustion capabilities of a rotary, their NA racing engines could run octane as low as 82.

While I don't disagree with you, you're talking about racing, not daily-ing.

There's a problem with rotary engines (HURR DURR THEY'RE SHIT arguements excluded)

Previous ownership.

In the communting world, most buyers of rotary-based vehicles probably did not understand what kind of engine they had, and did not account for it.

M I A T A
IS
ALWAYS
THE
ANSWER

Only if you want to pour another $3000 (assuming you bought it for $4000) into the car before it's able to contend with a $12000 car.

>torque

Cue the 20b's 300lbs from 2000 rpm

>reliability

There have been numerous 12a and 13b NA engines that have lived past 200k miles with no rebuilds.

>rebuilds

If you are scared about your NA rotary, open it up and check. If all is well, you can toss it back together with a sub 100$ soft seal kit.

The point of a rotary is that you CAN run the piss out of it. Not only that, but it LOVES it. It is actually good for it. I rev mine to redline quite often, drive the piss out of it, and it has never let me down.

Also, you are boosting a NA rotary, that was essentially built to the maximum allowable NA tolerance while still passing emissions. Of course changing everything the engine was ever designed for will merit a lot more money than an engine designed for what your end plans will be.

Pic related.

Ok so a total investment of $7000 to content with a $12000 car? Sounds pretty good to me

>weekend only
Eeeeeeeh
I'll prolly go on a couple of roadtrips

I don't care about boosting or benchracing
If i want fast i hop on the bike and i'm gone
I'd keep it stock for the start and when emissions will fuck it sideways i'd just track it and go for multirotor

You get what i'm onto

What kind of damages can neglect do to them?

Going from 2 stroke experience i'd say it would sieze

NOT
IN
A
MILLION
YEARS

>it's overpriced
>it's yet another i4
>the used market is either failed projects or stanced shit

Pls go on

I do not race my 12a anymore, however I still drive it on the streets. Same moter as well.

Also, you cannot say that the rotary engine is bad because the previous owner's responsibility was also bad.

That is right up there with "but pitbulls are so bad!" when michael vicks makes them into fighting dogs. Your average joe might not know what EXACTLY to do with a rotary, but if Mr Joe knew what EXACTLY to do with any basic car, the rotary engine (Your RX8) would have no problems. What you are having a problem is basic ignorance towards a specific issue.

No offense meant, btw.

>Pls go on

I am more than willing brah :)

Just ask me anything and I will answer.

Rotarybro here, as usual pic related.

I applaud you for standing by the rotary engine, I really do. I do - in many aspects.

I'm not going to open up a rotary argument - I own one - and while I do love it, it all boils down to previous ownership. It's hard to discern in this day and age how it was treated.

On your third point (reliability), I don't disagree - run mine like piss as well but when it comes to doing engine mods there's a big cost when it comes the kind of power you gain. I'm part of the STL rotary scene and there's a guy in the group with a supercharged rotary and the max he can run is 3psi. He quoted $4k to make it higher-boost ready. Porting/Boost is about all you can do to these engines to experience power gain. Different strokes for different folks but if I'm honest there's alot more a gearhead can go do to a piston-engine (V6/V8, mind) and receive higher power gains.

Follow up: I won't disagree that working on a rotary engine is simpler, however. It's just a matter of getting it right and not fucking up your housings, while also choosing the proper seals.

(You)

counter to what the fanboys say, the miata will never ever escape the fact that it has no fucking roof, in comfort and in handling and performance.

I agree completely.

As I said in Previous ownership is hit and miss.

My FB came with all documents ever since the showroom floor buy. I have a picture from the early 90s of the original owner with the first picture she took beside her new car.

I am the third owner, with all receipts since day one.

Just keep in mind, the reason the RX7 was ended in 95 was because OBDII. That is why the RX8 has side exhaust ports, to reduce overlap to zero. This also made the Apex seals from about 7mm in depth to almost half that.

And tit for tat, I can open my motor and use a dremel and bit with the before said

Are rotors car/model/engine-specific
Are long trips/cruises dangerous
Do they require any specific tools
What damages can neglect do
Are apex seals a liability in a NA
Is there an equivalent to boring/piston rings or similar
Forged internals
Why is everyone scared of opening up their engine?
What can i fuckup as a newb
>comfort
Do rotaries even vibrate?
I quite frankly prefer the look of the 7 to that of the 8
>plus the price difference is nothing to scoff at
What would you say are the biggest differences between the two?

Actually dug up the files on the 7.

Hope you enjoy. This letter is to the 2nd owner, and I am the 3rd.

>30 replies
>ppl shouting "FWD is fun" "no u fggt" "stfu nigger"
Holy shit i came to this thread looking for a straight answer

You're trying to start something aren't you

Nah, he's trying to be an idiot.

Looks A E S T H E T I C as fuck

Thanks for the free bumps, i guess
As for a straight answer, i think i'm gonna try and stick to an rx7

Though considering i'm in europe they might get the axe rather quickly, in which case i guess i'll settle for an rx8
Really like the little doorlets on those... Too bad
the frontend doesn't look as good

Gonna go oogle at some in person tomorrow, wish me luck

Starting from the top
>Are rotors car/model/engine-specific
Rotors are stamped with a weight, Either A,B,C,D,E. Best case is to keep the rotors the same letter weight, no more than one letter away. That means, A+A is ok. B+B is ok. C+B is ok. D+A is bad.

Also, balance the rotors with the E shaft and counterweight. I would hate to have an S5 B rotor and an S4 B rotor not get weighed, since the S5 NA rotors were the lightest 13bs produced.
>Are long trips/cruises dangerous
About as dangerous as any piston engine.
>Do they require any specific tools
A 54mm socket to remove the flywheel, if memory serves. There arn't 6 or so bolts on the flywheel, just a single pain in the ass one.
>What damages can neglect do
Blow the engine of course. Read an owners manual or spend 20m on a forum.
>Are apex seals a liability in a NA
Not if you keep it no higher than redline. The biggest liability are those people who think rotaries have no redline. My 12a will start to chatter the housings around 7200 rpm.
>Is there an equivalent to boring/piston rings or similar
Boring means to increase displacement. That can only happen if you replace the entire engine with a higher displacing engine. 10a to 12a, 12a to 13a/b, 13a/b to 20b.
>Forged internals
Only difference is compression ratio and strengthening in the rotor itself. Turbo rotors are lower compression, however with a good tune, you can use NA rotors in a Turbo application.
>Why is everyone scared of opening up their engine?
Everyone is scared the first time they try anything. The only difference is Rotorheads are almost few and far between, so if you mess up you are left to find out why on your own or through the internet if you have no rotary friends near.
>What can i fuckup as a newb
Everything.

>pic is my car

Again, looks amazing though i'd go for a punvhier color
>everything
Not that newb, i mean as somone who's only worked on piston engines

Previously repainted by the 2nd owner to BMW Silver Titanium Metallic.

I really like how it looks, but I'd be damned when I degreased the engine bay and found that there was still the original white paint.

Really wish he left it that way. Live and learn eh.

When he said everything, he meant everything. Rotary engines run hot which can bake externals. There's the issue of carbon buildup which happens faster in rotarys than piston applications. You need to mind pre-mixing throughout the life of the engine to properly lubricate seals.

Anything can go wrong under the wrong ownership, some engines see compression loss after 90K. Well cared for they can last a very long time (quoting the general life-span seems to prod a rotary-owner's sensitive parts.

Wanna know how i know youre lying?
>it has no torque

How about an FB RX7?
>sporty (feels like it at least)
>RWD
>Manual
>2/3 doors
>Pop up headlights

Put your foot down in second gear ~15MPH. Watch as you slowly take off.

RX-8 here, never driven another rotary, but it accelerates like a train. There's no "Woah here we go." even like you experience in some V6's and a moderate amount of V8's

Wanna know how i know youre trolling?
>The typical experience you will have in a rotary is similar to a 130 HP piston-engine car

Notice how I mentioned earlier that the regular gear-head does not take kindly to revving the piss out of their car constantly, as a recent-owner of the car, it's hard to get over that hump. I didn't live my enthusiast life with my first 'fast' car being a rotary-powered machine.

Wanna know how i still know youre trolling?
>he thinks seals dictate boost
>he thinks HP is "locked"
>power for $ is cheaper in piston application
Are you even trying?

Honestly the gearing in the RX8 is phenomenal if you use it correctly.

Going into second gear at such a low speed is like asking a S2000 to engage vtec below... well 6ooo rpm.

Ye
That was my first choice
Honestly the 8 doesn't look too bad and i've found one for 8k nearby
As far as i could gather 09+ are those to look for
And i said i ride motorcycles
Which basically require their engines being revved to speeds your rotary can't even dream of
Mind to elaborate?

>2nd gear at 15mph
Thats like 1500rpm moron.
Fucking retard

Wishing for a "woah here we go" feeling from a 1.3 liter in the absolute bottom of its power range in the wrong gear.

>Never drivern a rotary

Oh so you totally know how an unknown engine to you accelerates in an unknown gear given an unknown powerband?

Dear god, that kind of thinking makes an average joe a space rocket science-ticion!!!

Hello OP, given the recent troll posts, I am heading out.

It was good talking with you.

Again, pic related.

G'night, fag
>can't handle the banter

I think (you, only? Not sure on the number of posters in this thread) multiple people have misunderstood me. I've, from the start, have accentuated the fact that adjusting to a rotary engine after many years of owning +350HP cars is really hard. I love the RX-8 (rotary, in general) for what it is. Good fun - high rpms, generally low platforms with good handling especially under mods.

The problem is (by this thread, I guess I'm just a fucking retard) adjusting to revving the fuck out of the engine for a moderate power output.

(regarding (You) )
I've owned a motorcycle since I was 16. The feeling of sitting in a car and revving it to 9K+ is a entirely different feeling.

I know what it means to sit in second gear at 6-7K RPM. I'm trying to tell you it's difficult to adjust to having a car sitting at that.

Rotary engines are not as long-lived as your typical 600cc inline-four. You never mentioned a price point but to buy an 90K+ rotary is implied that there are future costs down the road.

All of these are manageable but not a good 'investment' (Oh god, I just used that word) when it comes to an engine. I'm not against maintenience but expect alot when it comes to a rotary. I'm not talking about pre-mixing at fillup, again: I'm talking about the heat which bakes the externals.
Ignition, Solenoids, you name it, it's all liable to burn up because of the temperature and the fact it's slapped on a car (externals, I mean) that is designed for I4's or V6's.

I don't hate rotaries but finding one that isn't 100% ruined will be hard.
Why not pic related?

You are fucking stupid

WHAT THE FUCK IS A COREY THREAD?

>you had no explanation as to why

>90k
El e el
Try an eigth of that, i ain't buying new
And these things aren't exactly selling like hotcakes
Brb, gotta puke

More like
>Don't care about the banter.

i always thought this was body kit
it's ugly as fuck
who on fucking earth thought it was a good idea

>Rotary engines are not as long-lived as your typical 600cc inline-four
Are you high?

I'm realistic
I've got a 600cc motorcyle on 170k mate.

>170k
>impressive
I4s, especially JAP ones are only bulletproof if you don't ever race them
Considering they have the peakiest powerband for 4t i'd say you're just full of shit

The rotary reliability thing is fucking dumb. Talk to anyone with a 12a and they will probably tell you the engine is the most reliable part of the car. You dont need to warm them up or cool them down like people say you HAVE TO DO. Good practice, but not needed for a normally driven naturally aspirated engine. I whip mine to work half a mile away regularly.
Running a rotary hard into the redline and keeping it there won't damage a thing unless your cooling system is insufficient (Stock parts can handle it on NA engine).

Boost is what kills the man. Boost is why reliability is a problem. But boost is why a dorito can make shit tons of power. I own two first gen rx7's and 3 engines (stock port, bridge port, and peripheral port). Porting is where the power is made, no cams no bore over, no crazy timing. A ported engine will have some nasty characteristics depending on tune, but an NA ported engine will be dead nuts reliable as long as you keep the fluids clean and fresh.

Constant oil changes, premix, and keep an eye on the coolant.
Tearing down a rotary is easy, and can be done by a complete novice in a few hours. A rebuild is cheap compared to pistons. All new engine internals are 1.5K for good parts. But if you're looking for 700hp expect to spend more money than a 700hp lsx. Expect to lose reliability to boost for figures over 350hp.

No you havent.
Not without rings minimum

Yes, Yes I have. A moderately run 1993 bike engine has last that long.

Prove it.
Or admit youve needed rings several times

>Maintainance is not a problem, nor MPGs or performance, just want some fun
If you're a burger and limited to the burger market FC or FD RX-7, 240SX, foxbody Mustang, Pontiac GTO, or a Pontiac Firebird.

I'd recommend the GTO with a HSV front end swapped on.

>tfw autism high enough to understand that graph

that's not autism that's called not being a fucking retard

if you can't read this graph why the fuck are you on this board. Learn what it means

none of my friends or family could read it

Not a burger
Just a pasta

>rotary
Why?
Just get something with a v8 or get a car and v8 swap it.
You'll have a lot more fun that way and upgrades for say, and LS type motor, would be insanely cheap, most HP for the dollar you can get hands down.

>why
Mostly novelty
Insurance rates too
Good luck finding an LS in Italy and having it road legal
as a matter of fact that applies to mostra v8s

Are you the OP?
You live in Italy?

Ye
Ye

Rip.

Y?

was thinking of one day just buying a 12a that's been run to the ground and cheap just to tear it down. Would love to upgrade my miata to an FD instead of an s2k, but I got a feeling that I have to invest alot of time in learning how to work with a rotary before even considering buying it.

The butt frustration is real!

I'm surprised how much I had to scroll till 4th fb was brought up.

Wasn't that the while point of the thread?

Lurk moar newfag

nah. You really shouldn't need to do any engine work unless you buy a car that is on its last let like any other car.

Owning any gen rx7 isnt 75% working on the engine and 25% having a running vehicle. Unless you dumb as dont change fluids it will be like any other car + some idling time to heat up and cool down. A 12a is really simple and you will probably be like "did i really just spend 200$ on this theres only like 10 parts? wtf"

Bumpy

You see, this is my problem with rotaries
The general opinion seems to be
>too complex, explodes easily
But as soon as i ask ownrs/fans it becomes
>it's all good, just put oil in it and don't be a shitcunt
What gives?

This post reeks of idiot
stop trying to sound smart and just stfu. Autistic kid

Renesis sees over 200k regularly without having to adjust valves or other high maintenance bike engine bullshit
Just oil and spark plugs

RX7 is a great car, but would never DD it unless your daily route is longer and allows it to heat up fully and you allow it to cool off when you get where you're going.

As far as other cars, have you looked at any MR2s? They're fun even in NA form, and has a Camry engine.

>no DD
No problemo
>MR2
I suppose so
It's just that the whole rotary engine deal looks really enticing
Will look around, but everything that i like seems to be either rice taxed or stanced to hell
A mint rx8 + a whole new engine is still cheaper than a good mx, it seems

Plus i'm really digging the looks of it
>and let's be honest, looks are easily 90% of the deciding factors

The answer is always AW11

AW11 > RX7 = Miata > anything else

I'll see into it
I don't know if i like more the curvy or the boxxy styles

Is there really only 3 guys into rotaries in the whole auto board?

Yeah it seems that way.

Rotary enthusiasts are a small group. They require more attention and knowledge than conventional piston engines and that puts off a lot of people.

I appreciate them for what they are.

Like people that like Geo Metros, I think they're just throwaway shitboxes but that shouldn't take away from people that like them.

People who like metros like them because they're the XJ of hatches. Tiny, dirt cheap and piss easy to take down to the studs to work on. When my Spark finally claps out I'll just replace it with a metro that will be just as cheap to run and dead simple to maintain.

Yeah and that's fine, some people like more of a challenge.

>They require more attention and knowledge than conventional piston engines and that puts off a lot of people
No they dont

Okay friend

Agree to disagree on that

What more do they require?

Maintenance, for one. They run hotter so require more time to cool down, a common practice is to park and open the hood while letting it idle to cool off. More frequent rebuild intervals (for turbo cars at least).

They don't like to be driven at low RPM all the time like piston engines, and to use the power they have you need to rev them out.

Consider the MR2 AW11 if you can find a clean one.