Weird LT1 problem

This probably isn't the best place to ask this, but I've already been on forums and the only answer I got was "lol I dunno did u check the fuel pressure?"
My car:
95 z28 with LT1 & 6-speed manual
My problem:
The car starts and idles fine, and will rev just fine if I steadily press the throttle, but if I quickly press it, it acts as if I shut off the ignition until I let off the gas and it catches itself and resumes idling.
Fuel pressure is fine, TPS seems fine, MAF seems fine, MAP seems fine.
The only thing I can find wrong is while datalogging, when I quickly hit the peddle, spark advance advances as it should to around 40° but quickly drops in a fraction of a second to 10°. I'm stumped as to why it's doing this.
Pic related

Why is the IAC open at that rpm?
Why does the bureau of land managment have a cell in your engine?

BLM has cells everywhere including our government's highest office.

I think you mean Black Lives Matter. He must be a sleeper agent for them.

I have the full datalog if anyone wants to take a look at it.

Did you monitor fuel pressure live while spiking the throttle?

Yup. Fuel pressure was at:
33-35 at idle
40 at revving
43 at quickly pressing
And 43 at key on not running

What are those spikes in the block load manager reading up to?

That is how your engine calculates how much fuel it needs to inject.

Your computer is out of sync, since its retarding your timing as well.

Go over your engines sensors, and make sure there are no leaks in the intake or exhaust.

I can't hear any exhaust leaks, there is a hiss at the throttle body but I could only find that it was the IAC hissing.
I can plot the O2 sensors and injectors on the graph if that'd help.

Test your O2 Sensors, as well as your TPMS.

Here's the O2s and Injector BPW. O2 sensors are both new AC Delco as of 2 months ago. It ran great after I changed them and only started this problem a week or two ago.
The O2 sensors seem to be bouncing up and down as they should, but go extremely rich when I quickly press the peddle, and lean when I let off if I'm reading the graph right.
1/3

2/3

3/3

Also, TPMS?

bump

Anyone with experience in datalogging? I can send the full datalog.

Swap in ecoboost instead of using outdated tech

Serious question - you thought Veeky Forums would be able to assist with this issue?

Try swapping in ecoboost

>Coюз Coвeтcких Coциaлиcтичecких Pecпyблик Duty Cycle 0.0%
Sounds about right.

Goddamn BLM blocking progress...

... but seriously : You're likely over complicating the issue. There are three primaries to an engine, Fuel, Air, Spark.

You've already declared your air flow seems ok, and you've declared your fuel pressure makes sense. So what's left? Spark.

We know your spark plugs are fine, because your idle isn't rough.

What that leaves to check next is your coil packs.

In my mind, one of them is not charging/discharging correctly at varying speeds, which the system is trying to correct for by dramatically changing literally everything in a desperate "oh fuck oh fuck" moment.

I could be wrong of course, but my next avenue of attack would be the coil packs.

There's only one coil along with a distributor (the infamous optispark). If it wasn't working right it should make the car run funny at any rpm wouldn't it? I may be wrong but I'm up to suggestions at this point. I just don't wanna go throwing parts at it.

>"This probably isn't the best place to ask this, but..."

Ah, didn't realize it was distributed. Thought it was computer controlled.

Even still, I would check for spark issues next, including the coil pack.

It's a computer controlled distributor basically, but I'll try and check the coil tomorrow. I think I read somewhere that I can check the ohms to see if it's going dead.

Well opti-sparks ARE notorious for a reason. Find out if there's some kind of diagnostic procedure you can do to determine if it's the problem, hopefully without having to remove it.

The distributor also contains the crank sensor and is computer controlled

My last resort pretty much is the opti. I hate to replace it since I've already torn it apart not too long ago to clean it. It drove great for about two months since I changed the O2's, cleaned the opti, and changed plugs and wires.

I tend to refer to those as merely crank sensors.

To me a distributor is the old rotary contact point device prior to computer control.

the optispark is a rotary switch just like the distributor of days past. instead of being driven by the cam at a 90 degree angle its driven off of the front of the engine near the timing set and water pump. the lt1 was peculiar engine in that sense among others.

The optispark had a disc in it that lets the computer read what specific degree the engine is at so it knows exactly when to fire the coil for each cylinder. You advance and retard timing through the computer instead of conventionally turning the distributor too.
The optisparks are bad about getting water or any kind of debris in them and blocking the sensor, which won't let the car run since it doesn't know when to fire the coil.