Are pressure cleaners Veeky Forums approved?

2 bucket method btw

Take it to a DIY carwash
Nothing makes you speed up like being on the meter

Aren't I DIY already? Maybe I can clock myself to get faster.

I'm too methodical in a sort of random way.

Nah, I mean the ones with the pressure washers and brushes where you pay for time, nothing makes you speed up like having to pay, once you get that down apply at home

Oh ok. It's not that I really mind spending so much time on the car, it's that I mind not having time to do other things too.

I'll give it a shot.

How much do you value your paintwork?

> A lot
Don't buy one

> Not at all, I really wouldn't care if I stripped all the paint off after finding a single stone chip
Pressure washing is the cleaning solution for you!

Seriously. I use one of those at work to strip diesel soot, brake dust, and ground-in dirt from concrete surfaces/ It'll take the skin off your bones, and the paint off your car.

You'll be fine if you use a low pressure tip and keep your distance.

Clearly you'd use the exact same concrete stripping commercial pressure washer on your car user. Jesus.

I have the Harbor Freight pressure washer. Its okay, works fine.

My friend bought the Subaru brand one from Costco, its gas powered. Its awesome, would highly recommend.

>Subaru
You mean Fuji Heavy Industry, right?

The one I use is the one in the OP, just an earlier model. It will strip the paint from your car, and the rust holding the panels together.

See

>It takes me 2.5 hours to wash my little coupe, Veeky Forums. What can I do to speed things up?

Look at the other archived Veeky Forums wash and detail threads. It takes me approx 15 minutes from start to finish to wash and put away wash materials but I don't use the 2 bucket method. I use the spray soap dispenser and microfiber brush on a short pole. For example:

archive.4plebs.org/o/thread/15054456/#q15061874

Having an easy to use fully synthetic wax makes things easier AND faster AND less tedious. Full synthetic waxes don't have the trim staining and crevice deposit problems that old school carnauba waxes have.

I don't need a high-pressure washer because I am not trying to be "touchless" with the car. As long as the microfiber moving over the paint is gently applied, it is enough to remove the grime due to the constant flow of fresh new soapy wash water. Loosened grit and grime also gets flushed away by fresh liquid unlike with the bucket method.

There's a lot to be said for taking a shower (always fresh liquid) instead of a bath (re-using old dirty liquid). The trick is timing your soap to run out as you are done and you get that down after one or two washes.

Doing things in a certain order lets multiple things happen at the same time. For instance you can dry off but still leave the doors ajar while you put stuff away. That helps the rubber seals dry off more. Inadvertent multitasking.

Putting the car inside a closed garage for vacuuming and interior window wiping is good. That is followed by waxing. I MF to remove dust before waxing.

It doesn't bother the waxing if there is a slight trace of water as it simply gets absorbed into the applicator. During the vacuuming leaving the doors ajar keeps on letting things dry (I also wax the exposed paint when doors are open.

It's all done in about one hour: wash, dry, vac, MF dusting, waxing. Due to TW ICE. If it was meg gold class, it would be a lot longer due to tedious removal.

Really? Suprised any of those made out there intact when we shipped those out.

Fuck I hate dealing with costco.

No that's actually TTI product, licensing Subaru.

Yes OP I would get a cheap electric pressure washer. Mine has an attatchment that I can out my soap in. Like every one else says, keep a safe distance and youll be fine. The power washer really comes in handy when getting all the brake dust/grime off of my wheels. Not to mention you can use it for plenty of other things

what do you think of the ryobi? recon'd for $70..

>derp
homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-Reconditioned-1600-PSI-1-2-GPM-Electric-Pressure-Washer-ZRRY141600/206462315

I bought this one. Its cheaper on amazon. Not by a bunch but I think I paid around $129 but i also get an emp. discount

its 70 w/ free shipping from home depot. think i might grab it. you like it?

m.homedepot.com/p/Campbell-Hausfeld-1-900-psi-1-5-GPM-Electric-Pressure-Washer-PW183501AV/207085883

Forgot link too....

fak

Are foam cannons a meme? I've been wanting one, they look fun.

no they really do work well if you have a pressure washer. you can get a garden hose attachment one as well, but it doesnt work as good obviously. great for keeping your car soaped up for maximum wash.

what's the two bucket method?

what do you guys put in each of the buckets and how do you use them with the mitt?

One wash bucket and one rinse bucket. Grit guards create a dead zone & help separate particles.

Wash bucket
>Contains your car soap

Rinse bucket
>Contains clean water

You'll rinse your mitt out in the rinse bucket before putting it in the wash bucket. You'll do this every single time you need to dip your mitt back in the bucket.

>Self wash station
>Using recycled water

>Self wash station
>or commercial car washes
>Using recycled water

That's why I wash the underside of my car with home water in the winter season. I can't do much if it is all snow-locked, but otherwise I will wash at home. The commercial car washes that claim to wash off the salt recycle the water under law. There is some percentage of new fresh water added, but the bypass can be as low as 5% in some areas. Thus, the water washing off the salt crust is also a strong saline solution due to recycling of the water.

The wash water is still dirty as there are fine suspended particles in it and in the washing mitt. The washing mitt will never be as clean as when a continuous source of fresh clean wash is supplied to it.

ok whatever, wash it with hydroflouric acid if you'd like, that way you won't have any suspended particles or any car to wash

>2.5 hours
What the fuck
I can do a detail in 20 minutes
I mean it's a chain carwash 'detail' but it shouldn't take you more than 45 minutes at the most to get the exterior, interior, nooks and crannies with a compressor/canned air, vacuum everything, wipe the interior trim, shine the chrome, hit the rims, rinse it all off and dry. I don't bother using wax most of the time, if I had something nicer I would.

>I don't bother using wax most of the time, if I had something nicer I would.

Try using the turtle wax ICE wax. It's fast to apply and fast to take off since the pain of staining the trim is gone. Its detailer is pretty good too and readily cleans off sap. Because it isn't a troublesome detailer, I even use to easily remove sap on windows. It does the job better than windex which requires a lot of rubbing.

>setting up
>not having it ready at all times
Quite sucks to be u. Although it helps that my dad has a white focus and is absolutely autistic about keeping it clean so he washes it twice a week. Meanwhile I don't remember the last time my bike got in contact with any liquids other than rainwater

Mmmm.... i made this mistake
Good thing my car is cheap, still sucks though

Use butter on sap.

Spray the car to get it wet.
Get a long handled soft bristle brush and cover it in soapy water.
Brush down the whole car saving wheels for last.
Get a waterblade and squeegee the bulk of the water off.
Get a good absorbent towel and dry the remaining water off.
Wipe down the door jambs, too.
Clean glass with glass cleaner.
Dress the tires, wipe off excess.

I work at a dealership and this is what we do to every car, minus the interior cleaning. Takes about 10-20 minutes depending on the size of the vehicle.

why would you buy one if there's those diy car wash station in the area

>a few coins per week

I work at home depot and ryobi is our lowest-end brand

Depends
If you're gonna be trying to loosen dry mud from every single fucking nook and crevice, then yes
If it's just for wqshing the often dirt by the wheels or the lower side plus some dried up rain drops, wash it with a hose

>Are pressure cleaners Veeky Forums approved?
Approved by those who like to use a foam cannon attachment to coat their car with soapy foam. High Pressure is necessary to compensate for using only a small amount of liquid to create foam. Lots of people clean their cars without a blanket of foam covering the car. In my opinion, covering the car with a blanket of foam is gimmick.

I use a soap dispenser spray attachement to the water hose and a 2-foot long handle with chenille microfiber (a pad full of those 1.25 inch long microfiber cat tails). It's clean and fast. The constant flow of fresh clean soapy wash water means the surface is cleaner of grime AND any grit is washed away to the ground. The microfiber cat-tails don't scratch. A lot of people in my neighborhood use that method too. So it seems to have "universal" approval here for ease of use and speed without scratching.

>what car detergent do you like to use with it?
One that doesn't leave any type of residue or additional product. I plan on using my choice of wax afterwards, so I don't need a "wash and wax" to leave behind any residue that might dilute or interfere with the wax product I am using afterwards.

The choice of wash depends on your area. If you have a lot of baked on tree sap because you like to wait a lot between washes, then a stronger wash would take off not just the physical bump, but also that residue that clings to the clear coat.

Since I have a sealant coat, I don't want something strong that would strip it off, so I use that mild meguiar's gold class car shampoo. Its label claims to leave the wax on, but in actual practice, it strips my gold class wax totally off. Well, gold class wax isn't known for sticking in the first place, so that was to be expected.

Dirt gets trapped in your pole mop too, dingus.