QTDDTOT : Questions That Don't Deserve Their Own Thread

Is ebay better than say, 034motorsports or vwpartsvortex?

do you work in the industry user?

How fast should my car be for this not to be rice?

Uhm...what bullshit? I made the description very clear and easy as I can.

recently passed car noob here

i recently got all new brake disks/pads

ive noticed at low speeds (1-20) theres an annoying low pitched screeching sound coming from the front passenger side

is this normal cause my brakes are new? or should i take it back and get it looked at?

How do I install an LED light conversion and not be the jackass who blinds everybody on the road? Finally got sick of my ancient headlights and need to upgrade.

Posting this again from last thread because this is scaring me and no mechanics are open by the time I get off work.
Got an 02 Mustang GT with manual tranny. Yesterday noticed sluggish acceleration. It's kinda shaky when accelerating. Once I'm up to speed it's fine but I especially feel it in 3rd, 4th, and 5th. There's no check engine light on, I got the codes scanned anyways just in case the light was dead and it was all good. I just put a bottle of seafoam in the gas tank. Honestly it almost feels like a misfire, but there's no sign of it. Anyone know what could be up with it? I'm due for an oil change too, but I highly doubt that's it. Thanks in advance.
To add onto this, there's definitely a noise upon acceleration at arounf 1500-2000RPM. It sounds like a metal on metal ticking noise. While that noise happens the acceleration stuffers. I feel like it can't be the clutch because the rpm and speed match up totally fine, I don't see any rpm spikes randomly.
Im gonna have to drive this til Saturday when I can get it checked out. Is it ok to keep driving at least to and from work for 20 mins?

Did you put some copper paste/brake grease on the back of the brake pads, where the caliper piston touches it?

What's your oil pressure and oil level?

The oil pressure says it's in the right range, haven't checked the level though. Like I said it's been about 3000 miles so I'm gonna need an oil change, do you think this could be the issue?

Also to add. I bought the car 3000 miles ago

Why would someone turn the QTDDTOT thread into a glorified advertisement for generals?

Who gives a shit why.

>buys car and doesn't immediately change oil
>didn't check the oil
user stop right now and fucking check it. It might be too late.

Two questions:

What does Veeky Forums think about Jaguars, 80s and 90s jags are fairly cheap here and in my opinion they are the best looking.

And how do you successfully clean a car window, I use pic related and they're still fairly greasy.

Well I didn't not check it. I meant I havent checked it in a couple of weeks. There was plenty of oil in it last time I checked about a month ago.

How does it idle? What about revving it in idle?

I still think it's clutch as that's a classic falling clutch symptom.

It idles fine, revving it at idle is fine too without that noise. I'm gonna get an oil change after work and see how it feels. This Saturday if I'm still having issues I'll take it to a shop. The oil pressure is fine and has always been so I really hope you're right. I'd rather replace the fucking clutch than anything else that could be wrong with it. I'm kind of freaking out desu this is scaring me.

Would the clutch be making that clicking noise at around 2k rpm in 3rd and 4th gear?

I use windex. Someone on here will yell at me for doing it wrong.

>how do I not blind everyone with LEDs?
Protip: you can't
try restoring your housing lenses first, it's chbeaper
youtube.com/watch?v=UEJbKLZ7RmM

Brake lube:
CRC Industries Brake Caliper Synthetic Grease
or
AGS SIL-GLIDE
>I'm leaning towards the one that doesn't sound like sex lube
>better price anyway, used CRC stuff before

What is the coating material on an LSD plate? Can it be reconditioned? Pic related.

Just buy new clutches holy shit user

Yeah thanks its costs $100 and I need four of them. I thought it would worth a try.

they are toast

its not 100 each its a pack of them.
ive bought them before. comes in like a kit

nope its around 100 each search for alfa 75 or milano lsd plate. I live in europe. I can get it only from USA or UK so with shipping and vat it would be around 400 the four and that's how much I get paid in a month. Sucks to be europoor.

What is a good socket wrench to get? I have spark plugs and a spark plug socket but I need a good socket wrench to get them out, the spark plugs are seized up real good.

Got an old lincoln, recently I've noticed that after driving it for a while the mechanical fuel pump will piss gas out the vent hole after being shut off for a few minutes. The fuel pump's probably fucked, right?

I should mention that it doesn't seem to do this while the car's running, only after I've shut it off.

okay so i have an 02 monte carlo
that does not start.
turns out its not getting any juice to the starter
so what would be the best way to get it to start?
its so far down wedged between the transmission and radiator that id have to lift the car up to get to it, and from there ive no idea which wire to change, and then the wiring harness is an ordeal in and of itself
so can i just... like can i use a screwdriver to start it?

idk where to even begin.

Craftsman is gud and available erywhere (sears, Kmart, Ace) and have lifetime warranties.
>but horror freight tools have limited lifetime warranty too

>can i start it with a screwdriver?
>what are wiring diagrams?
>what re multimeters?
>can't i just hotwire it?
just sell it u dirty casual

Accidentally got van stuck in abour 3 feet of water. Engine shut off and I got it towed to my house. It started earlier and a lot of water shot out of the exhaust. Now it is idling with vapor pouring out of the exhaust and it sounds pretty rough. When I rev it, it makes a rattling noise and it shakes a bit while the revs lower. Any idea what could be wrong? The check engine light is on but I dont want to risk driving it and making it worse just to get it checked out.

are u the delivery guy?
>water came out the exhaust
It sounds like you hydrolocked it, the low rev shake is probably a bent piston rod
>wat do?
you are royally fucked sry m8 I'd drain the oil immediately and drop the pan to inspect bottom end

ayy he might've been baitin

Yep, that's me. That sucks but it is what it is I guess. Also, while it was idling just now it overheated so I shut it off.

if it's overheating as well i'd check compression first, then drain oil and rotate the crank a few times to identify what's bent; you may have also cracked the cylinder head and the compression test will identify that for you
>protip: liquids don't compress

It's a 27 year old mustang. The stock lights are shit to begin with and they've aged badly.

>installs new LED lights on shitty foxbody
>still can't see because of headlight haze
>can't blind anyone either
I'm okay with this

Was looking at these actually as well.
>cjponyparts.com/ultra-clear-headlight-kit-with-amber-reflectors-1987-1993/p/HLK36/
My understanding of LED headlight replacements is that they shine like incandescents, is that incorrect and they need different housings like HIDs?

On a scale of 1 to retarded how bad of an idea would financing $12k on a used 2005 WRX STI be?

I'm looking at a GTS-T Skyline w/ Turbo ofc and wondering if I should get it but I feel like I'd be screwing myself because I want it for drifting on track and minor daily driving(I don't have a need to drive much).
I'm wondering if I should shell it out for the GTS-T or save up for a GT-R

Can someone tell me if I should get the GTS-T now and tell me about it's good qualities for that or tell me if I should just get another import car or decent one.

>12k for a fucking 05 WRX
You sound like a TFTD story waiting to happen.

moving from a non emissions testing area to an emissions testing area, unfortunately because i have a catless header back exhaust. if they only do obd testing where they check the computer to see if the cat is working well, does this mean that i can just swap the primary cat back in and drive around for a bit to do a drive cycle and then take it to be tested?

Is this the board to ask about model cars? /toy/ doesn't have any threads on the subject.

I feel the GTS-T would better suit your needs if you want to drift

I know, its just the thing is clean and absurdly low mileage for an STI. I guess I'll just wait a few weeks until I have all the money together and pay it in full. Would it be a dick move to put an absurd deposit on it (like $2,000)? I just don't want to lose it.

That should work, worst case you can always try to bribe the tech.

I'm 6'8" and I was wondering if there are any cars that get good gas mileage and have enough headroom for me.

Ok update. I got an oil change and changed the gear oil too. Old oil was fine it wasn't that low. There's definitely something when I rev in neutral thought. Between 1-2k rpm I can hear a shake and it stutters. Above that, though sounds fine. Is this common with a dying clutch? Could it be an exhaust issue maybe?

you're a big guy

You're just gonna have to try a lot of them. Subarus are kinda decent for taller people but 6'8" is pushing it and while their AWD is god-tier, it hurts their fuel economy.

This is all hypothetical, but need an opinion on this. Say I have a non-turbo 07 Impreza with around 130k miles and a headgasket problem, and owe money on it. And then say I somehow trade it in for a 97 Corolla with 100k mileage that looks clean and taken care of. And assuming I'd have no negative equity or go into any negatives. Would this be smart to do? Or just try to keep the Impreza and get it paid off and fix it's issue?

After reading some reviews and looking at footage of LED lights in action I think I'm just gonna go halogen.

New car for ~£20k, looking for something fun that can also be daily driver.
any suggestions other than mx5?

here's how you start
1. make sure battery has a good charge
2. have someone turn key while you are under the hood near starter. listen for "click"

2a - if there is a click, your ignition circuit is fine and the solenoid is working but your starter motor is spent - replace starter

2a if no click - use mulitmeter - one end on solenoid terminal . other end to ground. have some one turn key. If theres good voltage (at least 10 - 11 v) at solenoid, but no click, your solenoid is spent - replace solenoid (independently replaceable on some starters, not others) or the whole starter.

3. if there is no voltage at starter with a good battery, problem is ignition circuit. most likely near the key - ignition switch, tumbler....
you could still start with screwdriver, but your starter sounds like it may be too much of a bitch to reach.

dont worry about wiring diagrams - the ignition circuit is pretty simple and similar from vehicle to vehicle... pretty much goes from battery, through the ignition switch to the starter solenoid. starter motor itself is hooked right up directly to the battery but needs the solenoid to complete circuit..

also check basic battery, groundstrap and starter connections ... there's only a few and they are big

oh yeah.... also try a gently tap with a hammer on the starter, sometimes on older cars its just stuck

I'm not totally familiar with the pounds to dollar exchange rate, but a wrx or focus ST would also be good cars that I think would be in your budget. What kind of car do you want? 2/4 doors? fast/economical? How much is an FRS over there?

what said, after you clean them up and you still want LEDs, what I did was point my lenses all the way down then turned them up a bit. Don't be a a fag like my friend who left his lenses pointed where the manufacturer recommended his incandescence bulbs to point at, LEDs are too bright to be pointing that high

I've been trying to clean my car. This has been on the hood of my brand new Forester, and I'm not sure how to remove it, or fix it.

I've tried cleaning, clay baring, waxing and polishing it. What the FUCK is it? Is a defect with my paint?

Another photo. Sorry for the shit image quality, it's really hard to get the issue to display in a camera.

I'm planning on replacing the timing belt and accessory belt for my vehicle. It has a pulley idler instead of a tension it seems. Should I still replace that?

Looks like sun damage below the clearcoat, I think you might need to repaint the hood

Might as well replace it if you're taking everything off. Nothing shittier than the one item you didn't replace breaking after you get it all back together.

Fair enough. Thanks.

I'm kind of getting mixed signals on if it is suppose to have a tension or not. I assumed all cars had both, but maybe not? Some small key difference? What's the best way for me to confirm this?

thanks a bunch user, ill figure it out!

what year/make/model is your car?

This car is fucking two months old. How in the fuck.

if you're in neutral and its having problems when revving then no its not clutch.

Not sure if you have a MAF or what for your mustang but it sounds to me like a Intake related problem, you might want to see if it spits out any codes at your local indy shop.

A forum that is specfic to the 4.6 or mustang may help you better.

I would only ebay for used parts if new parts can't be easily obtained, I would hesitate buying any new parts from ebay.

Checked and there were no codes. If this helps. This problem just started after filling up the tank. I read somewhere that bad gas can fuck up the fuel injectors. Does that sound about right? I'm gonna drop off the car at my mechanic tomorrow morning but I'd like some more input. Thanks

Have that shit warrantied. Bad paint happens, all companies have had shit batches of paint before.

I got an oil change soon, so I'll ask them then. Thanks for the help.

Hey guys, is this a good buy?

I feel like $2200 is a bit low and I feel like the seller isn't communicating all of the potential problems with the car.

newyork.craigslist.org/que/cto/5716402533.html

Thanks for the help

If bad gas fucked your injectors, then your injectors were probably due to be cleaned anyways. But yes it does happen on occasion.

However fuel issues only usually present themselves in the higher rev ranges.

Specific rev range problems is almost always intake and Air flow sensor related.

my car (manuel) shudders in reverse gear and i don't have to press the (hydraulic) clutch all the way in to shift but it's fine the rest of the time

wat do

2007 Impreza. The SOHC engine.

>Melanin enriched fellow.

I would be careful, if you really doubt it pay him to have it taken it to a mechanic, if he doesnt comply walk away.

I would say that 2200 is fair for an old 300zx, but I don't like 300z's anyways.

Alright thanks for all the help. I really do appreciate it. I'll drop her off at the mechanic before work and hope it's nothing too big.

Manuel doesn't like cold temperatures, and shudders when its cold, do you live somewhere cold?

If you need to, get a Mexican blanket and warm him up.

>how to you successfully clean a car window

...with glass cleaner? Throw some of that hydrophobic rainX stuff on if you're feeling classy.

This should be your tensioner. If you Don't have it, something is wrong.

Is the Passat gls awd since the engine is longitudinal?

And if not how is it to convert?

Should I get a new Mazda3 in the regular sport trim a Corolla LE? I tested both of them and I like how the Mazda drives more but it's also more expensive. I used to have a 2005 Mazda 3 but it was recently totaled and I got $6500 from the insurance. I pretty much only use my car for commuting but I still kind of want something nice. I'm 22 though and this is the first time I'll have to make monthly car payments and I'm a little nervous about sinking a lot of money into a car for however many years.

So basically would it be better to go for a cheaper car or just pay a little extra and get something I like more? My parents recommended not buying used and are urging me to just lease a new car.

Huh, it doesn't actually look anything like that. I'll look into this. Thanks for the help user.

can you find a picture online of your engine? that picture was of the 2.5L SOHC. As far as I'm aware 99% of all subarus '92+ look like that.

I have a 98' Honda prelude with 254k miles on it. What would be a better choices, selling it, or keeping the car and upgrading it?

254k is a lot of mileage. The engine is old and tired, probably needs to be rebored and sleeved. Transmission needs a full rebuild, maybe. All your rubber bushings are probably shot. New shocks and springs. headlights are probably faded and yellow as fuck. If you really like the car, keep it and upgrade it. You're really not going to get a lot from selling it. my 02' wrx has 230k on the clock and I've been replacing stuff nonstop for the past year and it doesn't look like its stop robbing my wallet any time soon. Also, get your interior reupholstered. Literally changes the whole car.

I would just swap something else in, buddy of mine at garage put a k20a in his prelude and that thing hauls for days. then just take care of the suspension & ect.

Passats have never had a longitudinal engine to my knowledge

Where did you read that? And why would you think it has AWD just becuase of that.

Kind of hard to tell from online, but this is the best front picture I could get of the engine.