>can a 2 stroke dirtbike engine handle daily use on road?
I am about 90% convinced to buy a new 2-stroke dirtbike for my daily driver to work (14 miles total). There will be no highway riding or city driving. I am not worried about the pain it will be inflicting on my body, but I am more concerned about the pistons melting, or premature wear on the engine.
> Do you think a bike could handle this?
As long as you aren't abusing it it should hold up, I'd think.
I'd recommend seeing if there is a dual sport version that has all the necessary road worthy equipment to be street legal.
There isn't. Although it won't take much money to get the lights necessary. I am debating between a KTM 300xcw and one of the new Beta 300rr. The beta has oil injection which I really like.
Don't those bikes need a top end rebuild every 200 hours.
Lol pretty much
OP you willing to do that?
For the price of a new dirt bike you could get a used street bike. The maintenance would be the same or even less
i love the 2 stroke smell
i would be jealous
See200 hours per top end isnt too bad. As long as it isnt needing bearings or cranks every 200 hours I will be happy. Not to mention it only takes a few hours to rebuild a top end on a 2 stroke.
>buying new pistons for your DD every 6-months
>new piston once a year on a 2 stroke for ~$300
>Valve adjustment every year for ~$500 and new piston needed every 2 years for ~$1500 on a 4 stroke
Thats basically the service interval options he has if hes looking at a tuned 4 stroke bike (aka not a KLR650 or something similar)
Yes, as long as you keep it maintained. Aka keep the proper 2-3% blend of oil, don't run it too hot and so on.
Be prepared that you will probably have to swap out piston rings/pistons quite frequently due to how these engines wear
No 4 stroke has service intervals that intense.
>DDing a race bike
Dude my manuals say
>replace piston and ring every 2 races or 8 hours
That's in all manuals for Honda cr125, cr250, Kawasaki kdx80, kx250
Hondas do. Kek
Look for one of these. I have the 70cc version for the kiddos. Bulletproof bikes
enduros not motocross
The manual for the 300rr says 60 hours for pistons.
Id say so, yea. Use decent 2-stroke oil and it should all be fine.
I have a 2-stroke rs 125. Granted it's not a dirtbike but it has a pretty high strung engine. It's gotten to 23000km without a top end rebuild yet; although it needs one about now.
That sounds stupid as fuck
>Paying for insurance
C U C K
Run the most oil you can run in the gas
Wouldent that cause it to run rich? Or do you mean as much oil as you can without being rich?
Do it, I often ride about 45km to the trails, rip around for a few hours, and then ride back.
What bike costs $500 to do a valve adjustment? I'd love to know, so I can sell valve adjustment services for a mere $250 for the owners of such bikes.
itll do fine, youll need to do top ends once in a while, but theyre cheap and easy to do.
run it heavy on oil and dont engine brake since no throttle = no oil
dr650 user?
bear in mind rockers are super duper easy to adjust. shim and bucket take forever since the cams have to come off to get at them
Either way you are looking at equal cost to a top end rebuild. And on a 4 stroke you will eventually need to replace the piston as well which is guaranteed to be $1000.
As much as you can without losing power
Use redline or motul 2 stroke oil
That's going to be the problem. You will have to remember to constantly blip the throttle to get oil to the engine
The throttle is always partially open otherwise the bike would stall.
Who are you quoting?
>new fags not remembering green text before "it was used for quotes"
Man I miss old school /r9k/
There use to be 2 stroke street bikes, so I dont see how this is any different.
I ride a 2 stroke 2-3 times a week (pic related). You should have it tuned to the way you ride e.g. lower temp sparkplugs for less "aggressive" use, and maybe run it a little leaner. For me, the biggest issue is having to wait for the damn thing to get up to operating temperature. These bikes don't like being cold...
>run it leaner
Why on earth would he want there to be less oil? Also what year is that RS250? I really wish we could still get those in the states.
RS125 2011 plate. Stopped production in 2012 due to being replaced by the RS4 125 (4 stroke). As for my bike, it runs rich in the lower rpms, making it a pain in the ass for city riding. Rich, while in low rpms makes it almost unusable (for a 125 atleast).
Sure it will work, just remember the faster you run the engine the more lubricated it is. This is why 2 strokes love being full throttle.
The bikes OP is looking at aren't street bikes
Hiw would the engine on a street or dirt bike differ if they are both 2 strokes?
OP why not a proper bike?
>old school /r9k/
Don't be a fag
Typically a long lasting street bike will have loose tolerances.
The dirtbikes are usually made in such a way that they are bringing out as much power as possible from the engine, meaning that stuff wears out quicker, it runs hotter and so on, while a 2-stroke streetbike will most likely be made in such a way that it runs a lot calmer, lasts longer but has perhaps a much smaller hp/l rate
It was a good board back around ~2009ish
No it was shit then too
t. former robot
How can you get a tag for one of these?
most street bikes have oil injection
No.
Its a waste of a dirt bike and you will blow the engine up by holding it at constant RPM unless you are going to be dabbing the clutch and revving its rings out every now and again.
Have fun cleaning your fouled spark plugs on the side of the road and rebuild after 2000km though.
You forgot reed valves, gaskets, seals, the crank, the flywheel and the bottom end bearings.
Id expect to be replacing all that after 200 hours of road use on a 2 smoke.
dirt bike engines are on the limit of being broken engines that will not work in the name of weight saving because they only need to work for 15 minutes.
Road bike engines are designed to be reliable.
you have no idea what the fuck you are talking about
Ok, You can replace a piston and rings and not do any of the gaskets or seals, don't worry about replacing the reed valves when they crack, bearings fucked? let em explode thatell be good for the engine, hopefully the conrod stays inside it and doesnt end up outside the case when the big end decides to let go.
Who the fuck does a top end and doesnt replace the gaskets or seals? I mean thats just part of the process. Reed Valves very rarely have to be replaced. As for bearings and cranks they normally need to be replaced every other top end rebuild so every 3-500 hours. Even then it is seen as preventative maintenance.
300-500 hours is when the big end explodes, you replace it at 200 hours.
If the piston is lasting that long fuck its doing well.
Maybe if you ran the fuel at 28:1 and i mean all the time you could manage 200 hours out of your pistons.
>Reed Valves very rarely have to be replaced.
Every 2 smoke i have owned has needed new reed valves after 100-200 hours.
it doesnt take much for reed valves to crack and thats carbon fibre being sucked straight into the bore.
>Who the fuck does a top end and doesnt replace the gaskets or seals?
And i assume someone who thinks a top end rebuild will only be $300 does not replace the gaskets or seals.
>Pistons
slavensracing.com
$170
>gaskets
slavensracing.com
$40
Thats $210 for all you need to do a top end rebuild. You obviously have no fucking clue what you are talking about.
>vertex piston
>athena gaskets/seals
yeah nah you know nothing lol.
those parts are complete shit, if i was penny pinching id buy wiseco parts.
thats the same price as what posted.
OEM Complete rebuild kit is only 230
Seen as you guys are talking about 300 engines can i join in?
something like a 300 would be fine for on road use, the engines make mad amounts of bottom end and mid range power, hardly have a top end to speak of so its not like you are going to be revving the rings out of the thing.
I did around 15,000km on my 300 before it needed a complete engine rebuild and it probably wouldnt have even needed that if it never sat for 3 years without being started before it was ridden again.
as far as rebuild costs go its about $150-$300 for top end, $800-$2600 depending on what needs replacing for a full rebuild and what parts you end up using (OEM is always best but shit like Wiseco isnt exactly bad... its shit like forged vs cast pistons.)
How much was your complete rebuild?
around $1900 in dollarydoos, i replaced the piston, rings, crank, all the bearings in the engine, all of the pressed seals, the reed valves and thats also including the cost for new head stem bearings, wheel bearings and a hammerhead gear stick.
Did not have to touch the bore so was lucky there when the big end bearing let go, really i was lucky the conrod didn't come through the case when it did let go, part of the bearing managed to jam the crank before it could spin around again and break the conrod off the crank.
oh and i bought a new battery
That sucks, I had the same type thing happen on my KX250 years ago.
>fresh rebuild
>had around 5 hours on it
>main bearing in the bottom seized
>piston skirt chipped off and fucked up my cylinder walls as well
I was so damned lucky the bore didnt get fucked, idk how because part of the main bearing ended up on top of the piston, pic related was when i first took the head off to see the damage