QTDDTOT : Questions That Don't Deserve Their Own Threads

1995 chevy s10 ls trim with 4x4. v6 manual trans not fuel injected

When I shift there's a clunk sound after the gear engages. My dad says it's probably the u-joints. Anything else it could be? Think he's right?

jerk off and take a nap

That's exactly what I did, but now I'm awake and feeling like shit again.

Repeat untill not feeling shit anymore, then start searching again.

Well, I guess I can always kill myself later.

Back to craigslist for now.

Do a google image search. It isn't rocket science. It is a black box, that pops open.

ive got one, the only flaw is the heavy rust on this car imo. ive luckily got one with 50k from my granddad, so i isntantly sealed the underbody and protected it from rust. put it on a lift and check under the car before buying it, VERY IMPORTANT

idk about america but a very decent one with little rust should go for 4500 euros. depends on the milleage too desu. if you test drive one make sure the clutch feels ok. it has a very clunky gearbox that it sometimes feels like youre driving a tank, but it sure can handle a lot of fucking abuse.

idk how comfy it is compared to other mercs, but i feel very comfy in it. 5 hour drives are no problem.

what? 4500? C43s are 5k and up what the fuck are you on about? on autoscout the highest i saw was 3500 for a c200 in mint condition with a little over 100k kms. From what i see 2k could buy a driveable C240.

i did say very decent, that implies no rust at all

4500 would be the upper ceiling. also i live in austria, due to tax cars cost a little more here than in germany.

How many miles do I need to put on a new car to determine whether it's a lemon or not?

Is there such thing as a american V8 that can turn?

I want a V8 for Auto X but also have the possibility of building up to keep up with a coworker.

If not, I'm just gonna give up and go with something Japanese.

I'd say you'll have encountered 95% of all easy-to-spot problems within 1000 miles.

>Is there such thing as a american V8 that can turn?
Yes, there are plenty. The entire Pro Touring movement is dedicated to upgrading classic US cars with modernised suspension. Veeky Forums even had (has?) it's resident Auto X guy.

build-threads.com/build-threads/47-chevy-autox-truck/

>I want a V8 for Auto X but also have the possibility of building up to keep up with a coworker.
You'll need driver skill too. Being good at Auto X with an american V8, especially older ones, isn't impossible but it isn't the easiest route either.

well I'm looking for something that has decent handling stock, not something I'm gonna have to pour 5k just to get it at a decent spot.

My coworker is a drag guy, the Auto X is for me, but keeping up with him is just a side thing.

In about 2 hours I will be purchasing a 2007 mercedes benz c230. Out of all of the reviews and information I found on this car, it all seemed very positive or very negitive. No in between. So Veeky Forums do you have any experience with cars of this type?

To keep up with AutoX, you need to modify.

Factory stock, a Corvette would be yourbest guess.

There aren't many good american cars. American cars are muscle for a reason.

I see, well then I'll just set my sights on track days and shit. I mean I don't mind modifying and spending the money I just don't want to spend 8k for practically a new chassis.

I really hate the LT1 C4s, love the styling, hate the motor.

true. well then in that case what would be a fun jap car for twisties in mountains and track days?

You could get an older C4. The L98 isn't anything to scoff at.

I'm thinking about getting a 06-07 charger rt as my 1st car
What appeals to me is the 4doors and vee eyt

Is it a bad choice?

>fun jap car for twisties in mountains
You're gonna have to be more specific. There's several threads arguing about that right now.

I'll look into it

Well I'm not sure how more specific I could get? I really just want a RWD stick shift that isn't a miata.

I've been wanting a Datsun Z for the past year now but I wouldn't be able to afford one that isn't running. Currently looking at the first gen Lexus IS300s

This guy here is selling an SLR McLaren for 45k. The mileage is clocked at 30k.And I've always wanted an SLR and what do you guys think about this listing and the car?

ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-Benz-SLR-McLaren-Base-Coupe-2-Door-/391539368914?forcerrptr=true&hash=item5b2990a3d2:g:CEEAAOSwbsBXn8A2&item=391539368914

>reserve not met

>SLR McLaren
>45K
Are you retarded?

There's just so many options you could get. I don't feel comfortable suggesting anything as I don't have the knowledge or experience with them to make specific suggestions, but the RX7, 300ZX, and R32/R33 are popular ones.

Other than electrical gremlins, which pretty much ruin it, it would be fine.

>Are you retarded?
Did you look up the link?

Yes
He isn't selling it for 45k

I bought a used car with a dumb sticker on the back and i cant get rid of it without scratching the paint, would it be fine if i just put another sticker over it?

Uh what was that then?

Also it's got pretty much high miles in it than most other SLRs that go for 300k and 200k that has less than 12k miles in it.

A bid
Reserve not met buddy

Oh alright gotcha. Thanks for the spotlight.

If I'm up in the mountains can I wave someone through even on a solid yellow?

Could you put to Inline engines next to each other? Possibly combine the engines with belts n shit.

Be tons of piping for intake and exhaust and shit but would it be possible and would it work any better?

I don't know the advantages but Ive always thought about it

why did so many people drive nice cars like integra type r into the ground when they got high miles on them instead of taking care of them and cherishing them? now theres hardly any left.

+ is + and - is -, it only goes in one way.

No, just like CAI, electric superchargers, all the bullshit stuff you can plug into your 12v socket etc. All just to rob you of your money.

Yes, or you could buy a can of that sticker removal stuff, it doesn't damage the paint or the clear coat, but it does get rid of the wax.

Traffic rules are more important than courtesy. If you have the room on the shoulder to pull over for him to make it safely, then I guess it's fine. Motorcycles, on the other hand, can easily slip past and have the acceleration to make it safely.

End-to-end or side by side? End-to-end is technically the way all multi-cylinder inline engines are built, with altered firing orders. Inline 8 engines used to be common.

Side my side for the engine thing. Like this

Front
O O
O O
O O
O O

Possible with shared throttle input and linked crankshafts, but has no benefits over a v-engine with the same amount of cylinders apart from redundancy. Some old tanks used twin engines for redundancy reasons

Sticker guy here, thanks for the answer!

Is that Salomondrin's 918?

why are you posting all these faggot supercars?

>918
>huracan spyder
can someone else make these threads

Looking at getting my speakers in my car replaced (they were blown when I bought it) but I kinda have no idea where to start
Not really concerned about having the best, but don't want a bargain bin job.
Redpill me on speaker manufacturers

Because the ITR appealed to actual enthusiasts and not restomodding boomers.
It's also hella fun to drive. You don't just not drive it.

I recently moved out of my parents house and took my car with me. Prior to moving I was on my parent's insurance plan because of a large discount for multiple vehicles, now I'm searching for new insurance.

The previous company -USAA- is interested in extending service to me for a personal plan even though I'm pretty far removed from anyone in the military at this point. I want to compare a few quotes before I do anything. Any recommended companies to look into? A service that could potentially bundle renter's insurance would be a plus.

Thanks

Saving this from deletion...

Car is having acceleration and maintaining speed issues. When I let off the gas it'll stay accelerating for another fraction of a second, and if I'm on mostly level ground it won't coast, it'll maintain speed, with my foot 100% off the pedal.

Additionally, it constantly feels like it's at 10-20% throttle, and quick throttle blips will make the rpm stay up for about a half second after the gas pedal is released again. My MPGs are shit atm, only at like 18 MPG when I should be getting 30-35.

Car is a 2000 Focus with the 2.0 Zetec, thinking right now it's the throttle body sticking. Bought some carb cleaner and gonna go at it tomorrow, but if that's not it, could it be a vacuum leak maybe?

>both ways
If you tried the wires both ways, then your car is

DEAD
E
A
D

So I was replacing my crankshaft pulley, and I sheared one of the six bolts.. Is it fine to leave it with five or should I suck it up and get help?

Should I buy a dsm for my first car? I'm not good with cars honestly.

And if not, I've been considering a hyundai tiburon GT. Is it a good car? A lot of people hate on hyundai but I think the tiburon has decent hp for how much they go for.

What factors cause oil pressure to fluctuate and what is a safe operating range for both a normal and a high performance turbo engine?

Reason I'm asking is that I just fitted an oil pressure gauge and it really made me wonder why it's at 60 psi when I just start the car, 20 when I drive hard and 10 at idle.

BTW: fucking AutoMeter retards, the space in the gauge between 10psi and 0 is so small it makes you double check all the time for fear of catastrophe.

Yes. Got it from his facebook page.

Someday that'll be mine. Nice pic OP.

early 2000s hyundai is like... Euro-tier unreliable.
It's a bit overweight and definitely underpowered, but if you really, really like it, you can make it work.

How maximum can someone modify their car? Is there any law?

It'd probably be fine, but you might as well drill it out. Use a center punch. If you get it good, you can use the original threads for a new bolt, if not, drill and retap. These bolts usually run fairly shallow, so its an easy first time drill/ retap, as long as you can fit a drill under there so its level. The tap and tool should be like 30$ and the process is less intimidating than it seems. Don't get help, just do it. its not that bad, and then you'll have a skill that will come in handy in the future. use you tube. get cutting oil, handle it and get better at wrenching

factors...
1.oil viscosity... the reason its up at 60 right when you start is that the unheated oil is thicker, thus more resistance and pressure.
2. the space between your crankshaft and bearings. worn out bearings will have excessive space, which equals less resistance to oil flow, which equals less oil pressure.
3. oil pump .. an excessively worn pump will create less flow volume and create less pressure.

thats pretty much it, to simplify... volume, resistance, viscosity (which is just there because it affects resistance).

you want at least 10 at idle. If your right at 10.... old engine?
when you drive hard the oil pump is spinning faster. pumping more oil through the same channels... therefore more pressure (picture twice as much water going through the same hose. not sure about the different specs for turbo and na.... I would suspect lower pressure on a turbo, simply because now the oil from pump has another outlet.... the oil line that goes up and cools your turbo. specs should be somewhat similar... try to find for your specific engine

I have a 1995 mercury cougar that means quite a bit to me. Used to be my grandmothers, and i'd like to keep it going as long as i can, but its showing its age.

The engine is acting up, and i'd like it rebuilt or replaced. The question is, which way should i go. I'd like to rebuild what i've got and say i still have the original engine. but how do i know theres not going to be a big issue down the line during the rebuild? It would be cheaper to put a factory refurbished engine in, but i would have to send them my old engine back in exchange for the new. They both have warranty's for some time. I just can't make up my mind for the life of me. What should i do Veeky Forums?

Can I get a nice looking car for under $3000 or am I gonna have to pay higher? I really like the aestethics of a supra but the only ones I see under $3k are in need of a lot of fixing up to look ok

Does a Mustang with a V6 feel potent enough?

Also Does a Mustang with a V8 feel just about right or excess in power?

Rotary engine in a Seven.

Why hasn't it been done?

Throttle position sensor? You got cruise control? If it works poorly or not at all, give that a try.

Isn't tuning your car bad for it? Like, it's gotta shorten the life of the engine or something

Not really. It was underwhelming for me because I'd been brought up thinking a mustang was going to be a powerhouse but it's really just slightly better than whatever shitbox you're in bow

Idk about the v8 though

the 7 already has enough problems with being too light and twitchy
that and it was meant to be somewhat affordable so it came with a cheep engine

but yes given the power levels and cost of of currently produced models
it really would not be too much different

can you trust carfax? what do you do when you want to buy a car and don't know shit about them (like how to spot flaws) except what you find online about a particular model?

What does Veeky Forums think of the 2009 Chevy Aveo?
Got one for free from my grandma and wondering how long I should go until I upgrade. So far its been a good DD

Don't get rid of it. Keep it and get a project car. The money you would towards making a monthly payment, put aside for upgrades and shit.

>Too light
Amerifat detected

should you buy an used car from a dealership or from private? how can you know if private seller is not trying to rip you off?

Buying a used car is a 100% rip off.

>Enjoys losing half of his cars value in the five seconds it takes to leave the dealership

I don't enjoy it. But when I buy a new car, I get a warranty, helps my credit score go up, all kinds of fun things.

>Buying a used car is a ripoff
>That's why I buy new
>That way I pay more to get a warranty which I probably won't need and which forces me to pay for grossly excessive dealer's maintenance fees
>The peace of mind is worth the tens of thousands of dollars I'm spending on it, even though I've never made a single warranty claim and probably never will
>It also helps my credit score go up, which I'll need when I keep wasting money I don't have on stupid shit that I could get for half the price

Face it mate, you don't buy new cars because they're cheaper - because they aren't. You're buying them because you're a sucker for salesmanship.

I bet you buy a new iPhone/Galaxy each year, too.

I have a windows phone bro. And you know the only difference between me buying a new car and you buying a used one? I get it for the best 10 years of its life. You get it for the worst 5

You could have gotten a car that was twice as good for the same money.

Yeah, your Kia might be in the best 10 years of its life, but they'll still be shit compared to the worst 5 years of what you could have gotten for the same price.

The worst years of a fun car are far better than the best years of a boring car.

That's insultiing. I would never buy a kia. I'm an American!

How do I fast

Different user here.

I bought a new car because I can afford it and there aren't used Fiesta STs from the 90's. My credit goes up because I financed a little bit of it, I don't know why I bothered though because I'm already in the low 800's.

I have a warranty, I've only ever made one warranty claim in my life and hope I don't have to again, but I still have the warranty. The two used cars I've bought in my life I also purchased third party extended warranties for. I don't like the idea of paying 8k cash for a having some component I overlooked explode and cost me another 2k direct out of pocket.

I'm an adult with a mortgage, bills, and kids though.

youtube.com/watch?v=H-kL8A4RNQ8
What did they mean by this?

>RX7
I don't feel prepared for a Rotary
>300ZX
I don't know shit about them honestly, but most I see are in shit condition so I feel for a turbo model it might be close to 10k
>R32/33
I live in Commiefornia so those are out of the question.

I just bought a 1991 ford ranger and the gas cap is broken, are gas caps universal, walmart has 2 types, threaded and non-threaded for $4, cheapest on ebay for my truck is $15. I was also told there is a crack in the dipstick tube, any idea how costly that is to replace?

My 91 B2200 has been really unreliable and has been randomly cutting power to the engine and won't turn over afterwards. It's been this way since i used Seafoam cleaner in the fuel and carb, but i realize it could be many different things. Any thoughts? I can provide more info.

To add:
5 speed standard. 2.2 L, 4 cylinder
Just did an oil change, replaced spark plugs and wires within year but could use a check.
Checked fuel filter and shouldn't need replacement.
My initial thoughts were the catalytic, or the distributor needing replacing.

I just came back from visiting the UK and found a speeding ticket waiting for me at home. It's from an automated traffic camera which says I was doing 38 mph in a 30 zone. Obviously I have no way to verify this but I tend to obey speed limits wherever I drive.

If I ignore the ticket, do they have the authority to do anything here in my home country (USA)? Will there be a warrant for my arrest if I ever return to the UK?

Is the alternator warning light on? Battery still good? And aren't those fuel injected?

Battery could definitely be replaced but no warning lights. Never had an issue with alternator.
The later models were injected, I'm sure my model was the last with a carb.

My alternator is only charging when revved after I changed it.
A mechanic took a quick look and said my 'wheel' om the alternator was too big, I needed to find a wheel with a smaller diameter to make the alternator spin twice as fast.

Is this diagnostic sound? Why would they sell me an alternator with a wheel too big for itself?

buy a salvage yard replacement engine that runs
>pros:
>already pulled and on a pallet
>guaranteed working engine, bet hedge against unrepairable OE
>keep old engine, rebuild
>better, faster, with more torque
>swap for salvage engine, repeat process or CL it

>aren't veterinarians scams?
>I mean you gotta take your pet to them
>sometimes they die
>it's gotta shorten their lives or something
this is what you sound like

>is carfax okay?
yes but remember not everything is reported
>like that time i crashed into a wall and paid cash to the body shop guy
>that poor subframe

>how do I know if a car is good without learn2wrench?
Protip: you can't unless pic related
take it to a mechanic to inspect, it's usually costs an hours worth of labor and will keep you away from most lemons
>mechanic cannot be a mook

u must into displacement and/or compression

>are gas caps universal?
no, but they shouldn't be $15 either, go to a napa or a real parts store and get the right one
>are dipstick tubes expensive/hard to replace?
no, and you you could probably get away with jb welding the cracked one

Do you have the old one to compare?