/bmw/ - BMW general - clownshoe edition

you're shit

on the topic of z3's im going to wash mine today as it finally stopped raining after 3 weeks.

how does the z4 compare to the z3 in terms of road feel and and engagement?
i know it "handles better" but if it's numb as fuck i don't care

Hey I thought this might be a good thread to post this in.

I am going to be buying an E30 soon, most likely a 320i SE 4-door saloon. I've read up that 325i's are much better and the coupe is the better choice but those are unaffordable because the insurance skyrockets. Is the 320i SE a pretty good E30 for a very first car? I'm going to be dailying it too.

Spray and forget. 5ish minutes so far and it is looking swell.

Now the rest of my car doesn't look as black haha.

in b4 tire sling

both half-shafts need replacing and dsc sensors. dont have the tools or space to do it myself. bye money.

So I'm planning on buying an E92 N55 335i, how hard is this shit going to depreciate on me

Found this for sale, and I'm somewhat inclined to buy it.
>1994 E34 530i
>146k miles
>$2'400
Owner says he bought the door moldings, but doesn't have the windshield moldings. I love the look of the car but I don't want it to look like the windshield is held in by 3M double sided tape. Ebay lists them for ~$240 for either side making it almost $500. Is this the price for german engineering?

Why the fuck would you buy N55 over N54?

320i is gutless and slow as balls, but any car is fun if you wring the piss out of it.

expect to spend more than you ever thought possible on repairs unless you're dropping a ton of money on a very well preserved model.

boaty
nowhere near bottom yet
clean e36 dude im mirin. more pix and story mayb?

...

What do you guys think about this one?
kansascity.craigslist.org/cto/5690413336.html

I like intact fuel pumps for one

I'd bite.
>losing the ability to daily with 600+whp over a $100 part

Man that is one sexy car, like the red on that body style.

Thanks. Story? Well it is a 1997, came stock. Have an Eisenmann Race 83mm catback, ST XTA coilovers with 20mm ECS spacers up front, and the LTW splitter.

Well it doesn't depict the hail damage but otherwise it looks quite nice, sand goes well with red. That's a very nice Zinnoberrot.

There is a guy in my area selling a 93 530it wagon for 2500, clean title 165k mi but blown head gasket and the flywheel needs to be replaced, other than that the car is showroom quality. I need to sell my prelude faster

I don't know if it's the hail damage but one of the passenger side lights is broken

Is it the M30 530i or the later V8 530i?

It's worth buying for sure, they're considered the best BMW ever made in both styling and reliability.

320s are great
One of the most rev happy of all e30s
Peak Power at 6k

Just don't get an auto

And remember it's a fun cruiser and slow car to drive fast, don't try and make it fast because you will get nowhere and loose alot of money. Just preserve and enjoy, and save for another car that isn't your daily.
130hp in a first car is enough to get you nearly killed alot anyways

I've owned a 1991 318is with the M42, 1991 325i vert and a 1991 325is- all two door models. All three are rev happy and reliable.

m30b35 in e34 is the 535i, the 530 is the shitty m60b30, dont buy if its a 530i

hello dis mai turde. just swupped plastik bumperz but i has no pic enjoi

>There are two versions of the 530i, a 6-cylinder model which was produced from 1988 to 1990 and a V8 model produced from 1992 to 1995. The earlier 6-cylinder model was powered by the M30 and not sold in North America.

If it's an import with the M30, he should get it but if not, I don't think the V8 is that bad is it?

Hey goys. Might join the club with this 325is. I posted in the last thread about a 325e that didn't run. I could scoop that up for $500 but then I'd have to swap the diff and engine to get what I want, neither of which I've found for sale in Oklahoma. This bad boy is 4 hours away so I don't think I'll be able to check it out for two weeks, hopefully it doesn't sell. There's also some """surface""" rust I need to inspect. The battery tray looks rough but possibly fixable and there's a few spots on the rear fender that seem easy. Hes yet to send a picture of the trunk and floor pans though.

Also the engine has also been rebuilt. He doesn't know where or what was done so that's sketch, but according to him it has good compression. I've yet to see the test sheet but it's no rush. Unfortunately I found the ad this afternoon, had I found it earlier, I could have got it today.

I'm the one looking at the car. It's definitely the V8 with a manual.

I think go with the V8 anyway. Do you know much of the history of the car?

Which modern non-M BMW (2004+) do you guys think is best for messing around, street or track. Maybe on occasion a few burnouts/donuts, with a some clutch kicks around corners.

I heard some people saying the (e87) 1-series is next best thing after e46, while some of the later models don't feel "true" to the spirit driving.

The e90 is starting to grow on me, still not a fan of the headlight direction bmw is going with.

Checked the VIN and the owner gave me a Carfax report, both match up except for a typo on an emissions test in '95.

Sounds like pretty good news then. I'd personally buy it.

Is there any work at all it needs currently?

This has been a long ride. BMW E34 1995 525i M50b25TU (single-vanos)

I got this car over a year ago, and didnt pay much for it due to the fact it had a leaking transmission and couldn't move. I towed it off, replaced all the seals in the transmission, and it moved. A cylinder miss was corrected by replacing a fuel injector. . Then a stuck valve lead me to put seafoam in the intake, It was causing the car to die at stop signs and sluggish take-off after warm .... after seaform it kindly caught on fire due to it being a piece of shit plastic intake.

Fast-forward: new intake from a 40k junked, complete with fuel line and injectors. Cleaned and vaccumed out the valve ports on the engine, repped all gaskets, put the intake on and reconnected everything. Replaced crank positioning sensor. Completely cleaned MAF and ICV. no engine codes. no misses....

I ran it all day yesterday with no problems, then today after around 50 miles of town driving it decided to start dying at stop signs and sluggish take-off again! What else is there to replace?

I've repped:
Crank position sensor
Checked all vaccum lines
Multimeter tested TPS, MAF (cleaned), and ICV( cleaned)
New spark plugs
Tested plug wires for arcs
cleaned air filter

What else can I do bros?

i must also stress that the trans shifts perfectly and the engine runs great, its just that stupid bog down on stop and go

I shot him a text again, so he'll probably respond tomorrow. It'll be my first car so I'm pretty excited, except for getting trim for the windshield (about $493 in parts alone).

make sure the titles clean

I'd personally offer $1000 and go from there.

probably settle at 12

The windshield isn't too bad of an issue really. I also see from the pic that it's got the full OBC too which is pretty neat.

I think $1000 would be far too low. Offering $1800 is a bit more realistic.

$1800 if its under 200k and has reasonable servicing history, clean title, clean transmission (assuming its an auto), clean interior with working wiring (i.e not having to pull the dash out which isnt exactly easy for us e34 guys)

otherwise it's a money pit.

It wouldn't hurt to low ball as long as you aren't insulting about it

Less than even half the asking price is what I'd consider insulting. I've know sellers to refuse to hear further offers after such an insulting price.

>under 200k
check
>and has reasonable servicing history
He finds out tomorrow I think.
>clean title
Check
>clean transmission (assuming its an auto)
Manual
>clean interior with working wiring
Looks clean enough

I think it's going to be a pretty solid car.

Have you test driven it? Drive it for at least 30 minutes and warm it up to see if there are any idle -> warm problems (common in e34)

If it does well and if I were you I'd buy this tomorrow, lol.

I'm not him, just repeating info from his posts and the info sounds pretty good. E34s are pretty tough so I'd be surprised if there was anything catastrophically wrong with it.

As far as I've seen from the VIN and Carfax it's clean. The only notable things were it being a leased car in the late 90's and having been checked for emissions.
A pre-purchase inspection is definitely on my list of things to do. What kind of things can I check if I go out to see it in person?

I noticed that the grille pieces don't quite look right.

My rear stabilizer mount broke on my car

i took the bar off and its been sitting in my driveway for like 10 months

do i really even need this? is there an upgrade for it ?

can confirm i have a m50 engine from the e34 line and its pretty much bullet proof

I am nearing 200k miles and it is strong as hell. you'd have to pour a shitload of nitrous or not change the oil to fuck these up

my auto e30 trans is leaking a fuck load again

>tfw don't even have money for the manual swap

Some clips on the grill may have broken, it's fairly common. Look out for if it's dumping oil, burning oil, the cooling system etc. Also start it up and see if the check control throws codes too.

dude, get a hydraulic jack, 79$ from harbor freight, jack it up, put it on wood blocks, drop tran, use seal kit (39 bucks), rep front and rear seal, and change your trans fluid while you're at it.

congrats its new again

and you can either use the hydraulic jack with a 4x4 board or an atv jack which is even cheaper from harbor freight like 49 bucks now.

and that shits good to have in your garage for future use anyway. look at it as an investment

to clarify i meant the atv jack to drop the tran and put it back in.

dont try to jack up a 5 series with an atv jack obviously

i've got tools mate, i plan on at least lifting it tomorrow to see if it's the gasket or what

I've done the trans filter and gasket twice (flooded). I haven't driven the car in a few days so it's kinda odd.

I think you may have the same transmission I have, it's GM model right? All I did was rep the front and rear seal, then all was well

there were a couple little o-rings too that i replaced and I cant remember which they were but i did it for good measure

the orings i replaced didnt seem bad, still rubbery etc.

this was a trans that was ran in 104 f heat in stop-go weather with a coolant leak

runs great now after repping all those seals. best of luck

Im the OP of >

oh and the front / rear seal were in literal pieces and some of it was down in the pan. did a full flush while i was at it before putting it all back together

GM?

e30 auto is the 4hp22

bmw a shit, use turn signal
good day to you

im a bmw owner and i use a turn signal regularly.

some shitty got over on me today and tried to run me off the road.

There's that old stigma of course but from what I've seen recently lexus / acura (rsx in particular) car drivers are just as belligerent as bimmer owners are

It's also interesting on the police scanners, everytime you hear of car related issues its like "a red ford 90 model mustang" vs

reporting a car generally as "a bmw"

shitty lexus*

those suv guys are the pinnacle of ass-hats

are you drinking user

Most of my experience of the shitty Euro car driver meme is Mercedes drivers. The elderly owners or people in older ones are fine but drivers in the new ones are the worst I've ever seen.

I dont know

It's done desu and waiting for the shitty shipping company I hired to reschedule (the driver "couldn't wait" for the scheduled date, I could have had it yesterday).

>you should post your progress and make a build/journal thread on the bimmerforums Z3 section
Not sure it's worth it, the work only took like 3 days and I didn't even do any of it.

He says the driver's sead doesn't work. Assuming it's mostly electrical, how much of a pain in the ass (pun intended) is it gonna be to fix?

*seat

Where is that?

Southern California

I want an E30 project car ffs

Buying a set of tires for my E36 M3 in 245/40/17, just looking for something for occasional AutoX/Track Days and Spirited Street Driving.

Should I go with Michelin Pilot Super Sports or Hankook Ventus RS3-2s? I could also go with Bridgestone Potenza RE-71Rs for the same price but they wear out even quicker than the RS3s.

Working on this rn. I posted about the white late model ITT and the maroon eta in the last one. I could scoop the latter up for $500, but I'd have to change so many parts to it what I want and get a new paint job. Plus I haven't seen a single m20b25 for sale in Oklahoma.

Fresh wheels

it is imo

atleast i'd do it if i did anything interesting with my Z3.

when i get a clownshoe like yours i'll deffo get the rear reinforced by vorschlag aswell. (since im very likely getting a texas car it shouldnt be much of a hassle)

my right turnsignal works intermittently

its really annoying, i think i have to replace the whole switch module or take it apart and put contact cleaner on it.

This picture confuses me so much, but I like it. A lot.

My right turn signal does the same, sometimes it works, other times it doesn't. I typically use my hazards to turn right because if you got your hazards your telling everyone you gotta exit the road, which is the right.

Oh and Z3 interior is still the absolute best interior every designed.

The one in the pic I posted is 7k, but it's mint. I want the fugg out of it.

Guys, should I buy an E60 or F10?

For what purpose?

>vorschlag
Funny thing, I decided on them based on their detailed original post about the process where they replace the diff faceplate with a 2-ear one. But then they had a chat with Clown Shoe Motorsports the day before I finalized the order and switched to single-ear. Basically, 2-ear is overkill and requires more in parts; I ended up saving $500 even though this was the first time they did it this way.
The awkward bit is Clown Shoe Motorsports is owned by a friend of the previous owner, and he suggested multiple times I go with them since they're the ones who first spotted the damage.

Anyways Vorshlag finished posting the process pictures vorshlag.smugmug.com/Customer-Cars/Joseph-Durel-BMW-z3-Coupe/i-d3FpWzM

how much of a project e30?

junk yard have splenty of shells and them being 4x100 makes it easy to find steelies

F10

Because warranty coverage

M42 a shit

That is all

t. modded M42 owner

I don't want to start with a literal shitheap. Probably something with a clean body/interior so I can just build/turbo it and set up the suspension

How is yours shit?

M44 is better. Fun engine if you want to get nowhere fast and sound good doing it hahhaha. Cant forget the amazing mileage too.

>post your Scheisseschachtel
1997 M3 Coupe, Techno-Violet
>post what you've fixed on it recently
Currently mid project -- a/c undelete. Waiting for more parts because previous owner was a fucking retard and ruined the firewall a/c line.
>post what you've upgraded
Euro alcantara-wrapped 3 spoke wheel. Clarion FZ102E radio. Borla stainless cat-back. Every other hour of labor has been maintenance and repairing stock components.
>post how much you love the damned thing
Love driving it but feel nothing for the car itself
>post anything BMW
My check engine light is on

Michelin Pilot AS/3

If your aim is spirited street and you plan on spending that amount of money, get something that's going to last well. That little bit of extra edge for those occasional track days isn't worth having bald tires and no money to replace them at some point in the future.

They're all shit. Too many serious fucking flaws. Mine works fine, and I beat the living hell out of it with a reasonably large turbo, but I just tore apart another destroyed M42. Crank walk.

>M44 is better.
M44 is worse if you want to do any modding. Worse head, weaksauce internals.

Did you happen to see a Cosmos coupé yesterday? Because I saw a TV.

E63 guy here, feel free to ask questions.

The first thing I can tell you is that the S85 is getting unaffordable fast, BMW jacked up the price of the VANOS solenoids so a solenoid replacement is going to run you almost $7k now just for the solenoids. Makes me angry just thinking about it but it's a long way away. If it weren't for that I would probably be keeping this car a looong time, because there's nothing else like it.

>Modifying an M44/2

But why? At that point may as well throw in an M50/2 for cheaper than any mods that would get the M42/4 to same spec.

>At that point may as well throw in an M50
M50 is heavier than an M20, if you want to make your E30 more nose heavy for very little power increase, sure! Good idea! M52B28? Not as cheap and simple as M50 swap.

>cheaper than any mods that would get the M42
An off the shelf turbo kit for an M42 will make your 318 faster than an M50 swapped E30. The M42 is shit but an M50 isn't the solution unless you enjoy a small amount more power and drastically effected handlign.

Just to make this guys point clear it isn't just the weight it's also the length of the engine. Majority of the weight is behind the front axle with an m42. Half the engine is forward of the axle with an m50. Equals under steer. Also m42s take forced induction like champs. M44 not so much